REAmemiya_fan

Okay I lied about the Noble Green, I love red too much to change up my colors. But I might add a bit of pearl to it to make it interesting. Kinda how the FRS/BRZ white pearl is. Not very noticable, but in the right light you can see it.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Inspiration for you:

REAmemiya_fan

Saw that in a different part of the forum earlier today, I loved it. Definitely was motivation!

REAmemiya_fan

Figure out I need a new rear engine oil seal. It's a very slow leak since I haven't seen any abnormal oil comsumption, but it needs to be taken care of. As well as just sourcing a used NA trans. The slip yoke of the drive shaft showed signs of scoring but it was not more than a .001" deep, if that. So I can tell that this trans is on its way out, and unfortunately I don't have the time or resources to pull the trans from my car and rebuild it. It needs to be a simple pull and swap. Ad while I'm at it may as well go ahead and get the exedy oem replacement kit from Atkins. Thought about lightened flywheel, however I don't think it falls within STR class rules. Plus it will save me some money.

So, anyone have any good NA trans they would like to let go for a fair price?

REAmemiya_fan

And after 122,600 miles, 23 years and two months, the passenger side mousetrack decided to finally break. Time to annoy my local dealer with the warrantied repair

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Hahah that's pretty funny. My carfax was saying that I have a recall for mine as well and was supposed to go in to get it replaced due to recall.
Sadly my s5 is no longer a useable car

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Have you considered swapping to manual belts?
They would hold you in better as you carve cones and don't randomly spit out cable.

I realize that one obstacle to the conversion is obtaining a set of belts but just saw another thread (not here, not a FC) where the guy used rear seat belts from some van/SUV. They were "real" manuals, no retractor, cinched down just like a true harness.
Seemed like a viable option to me.

How did you polish the Logicon face so nicely?

Finally, a comment/recommendation...
I like all the "refurb" work you're doing with the stock parts but feel that a lot of the impact is lost by reusing the old, nasty hardware.
DO NOT make the mistake of wire brushing them, without the protective oxide coating, they'll just rust immediately.
Go spend some quality time in a junkyard harvesting hardware.
90% of your fasteners are completely generic metric sizes- primarily 6 and 8mm- and are easily sourced from just about any Japanese car.
Look in the interiors because they are protected from the elements and usually in excellent condition.
As my project nears the end of stage 1, I find I've replaced probably 90% of the original hardware...I'll bet I have 7-8lbs. of bolts/nuts that weren't reused.
Every time you remove a bolt, chase the threads and use anti-sieze so in the future you'll have an easy to service car.

It's easy, cheap and good practice- you'll appreciate it next time you work in that area.

REAmemiya_fan

Hmmmm maybe ill look into the belts. But for now the car is being out on the back burner and the reason will be let loose probably Saturday night. Not that I'm not going to work onit as much but it definitely isn't going to be the main project anymore. And as far as the hardware, I will admit I've just been wire wheeling and anti-seizing the bolts. Unfortunately I don't much have the time or spare money for new hardware just yet, as much as I'd like to.

I do however try to chase as many threads as I can before reassembling.

And as far as this new project, lets just say do have the potential to go historic racing with it, once it is completed. It's pretty much already halfway there for me, so I won't be as bad as it could be. The engine will need rebuilt though. It only has 6 hours of racing on it but it's just been sitting in the back of his shop (read barn) for who knows how long and none of the openings to the engine have been covered, annoyingly.

REAmemiya_fan

Easy, ultimate compound, a microfiber towel and some elbow grease

REAmemiya_fan

I finally was able to do my own alignment. I need to get new strut mounts due to the fact the bearing plate is going bad and throwing the caster/camber numbers off slightly. New springs should be in order too.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8283894655/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8283894655/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8283894827/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8283894827/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8283894755/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8283894755/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

REAmemiya_fan

Now I'm adding front wheel bearings and races to the list. Mine started growling. Starts to get noticible at 40mph so I'm going to try and stay away from anything more than that until I can replace them. It's only the front left and after an hour of driving it didn't get much more than warm so I'm not too concerned with it overheating just yet.

REAmemiya_fan

Good news, in an effort to keep the car driving as long as possible, I asked the owner of the STI I drove if I could co-drive his car this season and he rather easily agreed. He said that he has worked on and knows too much about my car (he was friends with the PO) so he knows what I'm talking about when I say it needs more work. It may see some track duty but being my daily, it needs to be able to drive everyday first and foremost. That also means it gives me more flexibility when it comes to getting stuff done to it.

After the wheel bearings its on to the trans. I'm having my buddy back home (I'm on vacation) tear down one of the na transmissions he has and get it ready for me to see what needs to be ordered and then begin that process. Unfortunately we do not know what series engine (apart from obviously being s5, but im jot sure if theres any engine inception going on) it is and I'm concerned that the flywheel may very well be a source of my vibration problems. I'm going to have to do some digging around. And while it all happens its time to replace the leaky rear engine seal as well.

Oh the joys of owning old cars...

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Just my experience, but I had a weird vibration issue once - it ended up being a bad water pump bearing after much headache.

REAmemiya_fan

Ive experienced that before and its not the same, this is much, much harsher than the water pump bearing being bad. However, i should probably add that to the list of preventative maintenance i have to do.

REAmemiya_fan

Sup guys/gals. Time for another mediocre update that probably won't inspire much and as usual, isn't anything that I actually planned on doing as per previous posts. So, what's been going on with the car?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8397429806/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8397429806/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

For starters, I'm continuing my quest to complete my braking system. This latest adventure has been cutting the front rotors to eliminate any high/low spots that could affect proper braking performance. And it actually helped me discover other new problems that I didn't know we're there.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396343371/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396343371/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396343017/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396343017/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

That was the finished product after putting in my non-directional finish. After driving on it a few days it is obvious that I have low spots on my pads since they don't wear all the way down the rotor where they supposedly contact.

Oh by the way, I took care of my wheel bearings a week or so ago so were all good there. The left outer bearing had shavings all around it so I'm assuming a roller gave out.

Now Thursday I bought a new master cylinder to replace my old one which had a bad internal seal. I would have rebuilt it but the whole new one with a new reservoir was only a few bucks more. So I go get the master cylinder, come back to class, bench bleed it with Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid I had picked up a week ago from Touge Factory. Then after removing the lines from the master on the car, I go to unbolt it from the booster, and would you ever have guessed it... The god damn stud sheared right off with just a few easy turns on the ratchet. So, we hook all the lines back up, pour in some new car quest fluid, bleed the system, and I drive with the master being held on by one bolt for a day.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8370381621/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8370381621/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Friday night rolls around, I get off work around 9:45, and its off to my buddies house to get it all sorted out since he has a good stockpile of random 7 parts everywhere. I get there, choose my new booster, get the master off it, and begin my process of giving it some new life since the rust was beginning to take over. Hit it with a large and small wire wheel for a little bit and really dig into the metal before masking it off and getting a few coats of self etching primer on there.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8397396824/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8397396824/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Oh hey, you can see my steering rack that I'm currently depowering in front of the TV. Before we finish it though, he is insistent that we bore them like John did for some extra steering angle. So anyway, after a few coats of aluminum silver, steel blue and clear, we have ourselves a good lookin' booster ready to be thrown in!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8397396470/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8397396470/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Then after removing the old booster/master as an assembly, it was time to bolt up all the new stuff

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396311255/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396311255/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

And everything back together again

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8397395728/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8397395728/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

Here's a couple shots of it in the day light. I think it looks really good having a brand new master, a flushed brake system, and I also think that the continuation of my intake theme to the vacuum booster as a nice contrast worked out very well.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396310215/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396310215/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396309781/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8396309781/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

That's all I've got for now. Hopefully I can get myself to save up for some new rotors and pads all around and really get some stopping power. And I'm also trying to find some adjustable proportioning valves to eliminate the rear lock up so quickly, so if anyone has any tips on those feel free to chime in.

Until next time

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The stock prop valve should work fine in your stock system, I'd get the pads straightened out before trying to adjust the bias.

REAmemiya_fan

Grippier pads in front?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Seems like any pads that make full contact with the rotor would be an improvement.

Have you rebuilt the calipers or at least verified that all the pistons are free?

REAmemiya_fan

Yes the front calipers are reman items that I got for my first FC.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Which doesn't really answer the question.

REAmemiya_fan

In a very vague way it did, but yes the piston operation is good. No torn boots and when I mic'd the rotors the wear was completely the same on both sides of the car (0.845")

I would say obviously the rears are working just fine hence the lock up under hard braking.

REAmemiya_fan

I think we may have found a source of my shifter vibration issues: pulled the shifter today to check bushings (as I've got a lot of slop recently) and the fluid was a green/silver mix. When I put the fluid in there last year, it was a nice light gold.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8459602931/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8459602931/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

So tomorrow I'm pulling another trans apart and getting all the needed parts to swap the shifter assembly out and all the while check to make sure everything is sound internally that way when the weekend comes to do my trans, anything bad can be switched out assuming I've got a good back up.

Also since the Mazda stock boot never wants to last anything longer than a month bc of the oil getting past the big notched ball, we found a cheap fix which ended up being something along the lines of a ball joint boot from a Honda. Needed slight modification as there was a steel reinforcement ring preventing it from sliding down the shifter, but after that it was perfect and should last a while. Also swapped the leather boot I bought for the GXL since the stiching on my oem one gave out and provided me with big holes.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8459602625/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8459602625/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

REAmemiya_fan

Started the trans project yesterday, pulled down a trans from my buddies storage, had him powerwash the outside while I grabbed lunch (hahaha), and when I came back I took it down to the three main parts: integrated bell housing, center housing with the shafts and gears still attached, and the extension housing. Main reason is because he needs to take it to work to take off that HUGE hold nut behind the dynamic damper, and also to get the casing cleaned up nicely.

It will get all new bearings, but other than that, I see no reason to replace gears/synchros as they are all perfect. What MAY be a possibility is a Quaife 5-speed gear set from AWR... However who knows.

Here's some pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463193233/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463193233/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463192681/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463192681/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463192187/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463192187/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463191625/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463191625/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463190977/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463190977/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463190439/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8463190439/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8464288828/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8464288828/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

REAmemiya_fan

Got a few things done last night: Removed the AC compressor and the lines, cleaned up my spark plug wires with some zip-ties, and installed version 1 of my master cylinder stopper.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8482551054/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8482551054/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481460921/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481460921/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481460151/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481460151/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481458875/http://www.flickr.com/photos/globekidd/8481458875/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/globekidd/, on Flickr

mcoughlin

iTrader: (2)

That stopper is a pretty neat idea!