well couldnt get the haltech to connect to the computer, found the answer to that issue.. dumb mistake.. so fixed that then get haltech to connect to my laptop.. awesome! basemap on haltech looks ok about to turn the car over and smoke comes out dash.. harness is melting and burning.. so long story short i think my harness is finished and i either have to completely re run it with a new flying lead harness or i can just take the shielding off the harenss and tape.. idk new to this stuff.. not to happy.. last thing i was worried about catching fire was that..

also still have N/A stuff and some turbo things for sale if anyone wants them.. all good stuff

Harness melting is usually caused by a power wire connected to ground. I'm going to guess you had a wire crossed somewhere.

think the harness is still good? lol its the 2 shielded grey wires for cas, is it possible to repair the shielding?

Remove the wires from the connector and run those new wires, if those are the only damaged wires. You can buy shielded CAS wire from DIYAutoTune.com

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...2-gauge-10-39/

If the shielded wires smoked, make sure you absolutely have the grounding run correctly for the shield and that there are no power shorts through those wires. It may have damaged the PCM, but the only way to know is to redo it. You should be able to buy new connector pins to crimp onto the PCM connector end.

the shielding is grounded into the haltech i believe, after looking at the diagram cause i didn't ground it at all

Well, wires don't just melt on their own. Somewhere, either inside the Haltech or in your harness, something was shorted out. Find the short before you go further, otherwise you may have a fire on your hands

yea i will be looking at it later tomorrow, going to pull harness out and check all the wires, and remove and repair anything damaged and make sure things are set up properly cause it keeps blowing a fuse

fixed harness.. kinda ghetto fix but it seems to not catch fire when key is in the on position.
just need to time and set values and turn it on.. anyone know how to sync timing on haltech to engine?

well did not start.. not sure what to do, gunna check all the wires again to see if i have anything backwards etc.

fuel pump was not properly connected. im dumb.. all good now. its awesome.. except the fact i think the coolant seals are gone..

new rear end badges
 

not a fan of the grey badge but it will do for now

Glad it's working out, how does it run? Eventually I'll post my build thread here, once it's 100% complete that is. Our cars look almost identical.

well, it works.. it probably needs a rebuild, i think coolant seals are have gone bad. which is ok because then i can do some porting and other little upgrades. like replace some of the lines with SS and upgrade Clutch and Flywheel.
Also thinking i might Paint the engine bay, altho undecided on colour cause black might hide then engine. or repaint it and just patch the holes and little bit of rust.

lately i have been helping a friend do some work on his 87 fc.
coils, wheels, mounts etc.
we are working on a Gxl rear end with new bushings and all Powered By Max solid risers and links and some new paint.
then after that, upgrade most of the old bushings and add some new sway bars
then build it a 13b BridgePort N/A

more pics

Planning for the Future
 

after finally getting the Haltech running decent i decided it was time to clean up the wiring harness and engine bay by looming the new harness, and removing all old relays and connectors that now do nothing. after this is done i want to clean up the bay and weld some spots and paint the engine bay. I plan to paint the car later this year, thinking like a aqua teal but i might paint the engine bay a different colour like gunmetal or something that goes good with teal..

also on another note! i finished @northernrx7 (instagram name) rear end up the other day just need to install this into his fc and get it all aligned up for some skids!

messing around lastnight with some colours and decided that this is the colour im probably going to go with this GM Brite Teal. i tested it on a spare headlight cover. this weekend i plan on spot welding the front strut towers and some other spots to create a little more stiffness. and hit it with some gunmetal paint to make the black and gold in the engine stand out a little more.

Your friends FC is clean. What size are his wheels? They look like 18x9.5s

17x9 i think with stretched tires, i like it. hes switching to 5 lug and t2 brakes. so he plans on getting the same wheels just 5lug

To each their own, but I'm not a fan of stretched tires. Something about load capacity and safety.

The subframe looks good though.

I also like your color selection. Are you going single stage?

single stage?

and yea not a huge fan of stretched tires either, but not my car..

Single stage refers to the type of refinishing system you'll be using. Almost everyone uses a base/clear "two stage" system.. Urethane was popular, and still is..but these days the trend is shifting to waterborne base coat because it's 'environmentally friendly ', and they spin it off like the color matching is far more accurate on vehicle finishes these days with waterborne vs old urethane base coats.

That being said, waterborne requires some special equipment.

Single stage is good for a non metallic finish... Please be aware that if you go with single stage on a metallic color, you can NOT sand the finish ( say to remove a dirt nib or level out the orange peel). The metallic flake in the single stage paint lays a certain way, and there's no clear coat to protect the flake. So, you end up sanding and buffing on the peaks of the flake in the paint, and you end up with a paint finish that will never be right again.
Single stage is great for straight color. It's cheap, but it comes with its own consequences. Fading is still an issue, and you really should be quite good at laying down material as you only get the one shot at getting it right.

probably go with a 2 stage set up..