common.. i swear these aren't the cards i use to play poker..

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Aluminum hood horribly pained black and 240sx s13 pig nose lip installed decently doesn't look to bad


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Decided to switch up the motor, the red was starting to look pink black looks a lot cleaner to

i have been looking for a gasket for my downpipe and cant find anything other then 85$ from atkins which i think it alot for a what it is.
i have also been looking into getting a S5 lower intake manifold, the FD upper intake manifold and the adapter but not much luck on the adapter. anyone ever come up with a different solution to these?

The reason the gasket is so god awful expensive is because it can actually handle the heat. I tried the generic gasket route and it blew out, in my particular case. Someone else may have gotten lucky.

The adapter for an FD manifold is tricky. There is a thread on the topic here.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati.../#post12072047


Your other alternative is to weld the FD manifold between the primary runners and port match the manifolds. I'm holding out hope for an adapter solution.

yea ill most likely hold out for a solution also. and i know ill probably end up buying the damn gasket.. So close to swapping my car!! I need a fuel pump from either a turbo or a upgraded one and a boost gauge which I'm not to worried about because I am running stock turbo and waste gate set up.
once it runs decent and or I atleast know it runs ill swap the stock ecu and maf with haltech sprint and i can sell most of the spare parts lol
trying to build a car and rebuild a house is hard work

Look at the Aeromotive stealth pump for an upgrade. They are very highly rated and are a drop in.

I bought a S5 gasket for my manifold already. Waiting on the adapter, then I'll get the FD one. If the adapter falls through, I know a guy that welds aluminum.

Just swap to the Haltech Sprint now and get the benefits of a clean, uncut harness. The stock harnesses like to break internally after years of heat cycles and being tugged around during a motor swap.

only reason i want to run the stock harness for initial start up is cause the motor has compression but i have no idea if it runs, so with the stock harness and ecu etc i can verify that. then swap with haltech and clean the nasty harness up..

Well it is finally time to do swap the motor out of this and out the turbo 13b in and make boost noises.. Man I hope it works



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Took the wife out for a Pokemon cruise


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Stopped in to see my grandfather and his cady


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Parked it in garage because I'm ready to swap.. Let's do it

Motor is ready to be switched out, hope it all goes as smooth as it has so far


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So close! Got the n/a engine pulled out, and stumped on the massive but holding the flywheel to the engine.. Once I get that out and swapped I'll be back in business.. Can't wait to see my turbo engine in the car




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Rad out


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No more engine


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Little n/a engine for sale

last night i pulled the n/a ecu out and replaced it with the turbo ecu and ran the harness through the fire wall(not fun when you don't have little hands). replaced the sensors and goods under the hood with the turbo parts going to a buddy's tonight to have the flywheel and that monster nut off (that sounded naughty) so i can continue and hopefully have this swap done by Sunday or early next week.

So motor is in, bumped it, half ass started it. Going to install rad, downpipe, and maf pipe and intercooler
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so my phone takes the worst pictures..

Your airflow meter needs to remain oriented properly. It should be level.

What the heck is that tank next to the leading coil?

Also, your brake booster looks funny...is that stock?

That's the coolant tank on some S4 cars and the booster looks stock to me.

yea stock, and thanks car wont start so maybe the maf is interfering. or its a broken wire in that antique harness

From what I understand, the afm must remain level because the weight of the door at any sort of angle will affect how much air it takes to move it open/closed.

I don't necessarily know that it would keep it from starting. A bad afm, sure. I've seen some strange running and driving habits from them not being level.

Was the car an automatic from the factory?

my GXL was manual, but this motor might have been auto, i have no idea. first time doing this kinda thing

Nevermind then. It would be the body harness that would be in question if it had been on automatic

The MAF still needs to be level. You may be able to start it by unplugging the MAF, see if it runs. Often times a car will run without the MAF hooked up, just wont run right.

^^^ never said the AFM didn't need to be level, just that my idea was void.

The automatic cars when converted to a manual need some wiring adaptations so that they will start correctly. Otherwise, the ecu will look only to the AFM for starting mixture, and not the temp sensor. This problem will cause the car to not want to start when cold, but once warmed up it will start decent. No effect on running.

nope car was already manual, i assume its a broken wire, which is frustrating cause i will be rewiring the engine for a haltech sprint but i want to make sure that my engine ran before opening up another can of worms

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Well solved problems s4 turbo had bad bearing. Swapped in an s5 turbo and manifold and fixed some vacuum lines and a noob gasket mistake.. it is alive.. drove it last night, still needs a little tune up but its almost there.
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pictures loaded backwards..