i was buying stuff, and threw in a FEED shift ****, and i'm smitten.
its kind of like an NA miata ****, but its shorter, and heavier. it made the shifting more miata like, which is good



the yellow thing in the corner is a mini m&M tube, which fits perfectly in the JDM flare holder

the old Razo ball **** i was using is 348grams, the NA miata is 199g and the FEED **** is 475g!
its shape is pretty close to the NA miata, it feels really nice.

also, this is why i like to buy this kind of stuff, the FEED badge is placed on the ****, gets taped on the ****, but it comes loose, so i can put the **** on, and then tape the badge on straight later.
i bought a clutch too, so i'm going to put the badge on after that
oh and i think i'm going to try to reupholster the Ebrake handle, in alcantara

 

so like forever ago, i bought a set of JDM FTP lights, and they came with these Raybrig bulbs in them, and since its a cool JDM thing, i just left em.


however, they also don't really light very well. even at night its hard to tell they are on. i wanted to put LED bulbs in, but there isn't anywhere local that has them
for now then, i just put in some regular bulbs. you can tell the light is on now, which is nice. not completely sold on these bulbs either though


on the "what i learned about the FC today file" the JDM cars use the side marker lights as turn signal repeaters, and not side markers.
i thought about doing it to mine, but it would be weird cause of the rear markers.

 

Another little update, i finally found the instructions for the Tein HA's. i know, who cares, but there was an exploded diagram, and it turns out i'm missing the front bump stops. the rears were there, and just in awful condition, so easy enough to replace.
the nice thing about Tein is that they sell parts, so ~$47 later bump stops are on the way

the other thing is that it tells you how high to set the springs, and how stiff the dampers should be (also that 0 on the camber plate matches the stock strut top)


25mm seems like it would be really low, but after measuring mine, i had them at like 29mm, so i set it to 25mm but it was like half a turn, lol
i was also one click off of the default setting, which is kind of funny. these things are adjustable, but really its not right if you go too far off where we had it.

interestingly it mentions that the FC is 1:1 motion ratio in the front and 1.1 in the rear, so if you move the coil over 5mm, the car moves 5mm (in the front)
other neat stuff, like the shock dyno (at every setting except the one they want you to run), and what springs are compatible, and where to set the height to have it the same as it is with the default

 

Those sheets from Tein are pretty neat. I'm surprised they sell all those spare parts.

Can you explain what you mean by motion ratio?

 

Motion Ratio is the Ratio of the movement of the wheel, to the movement of the shock/spring.
so like for an FC the front is 1:1, so it moves 1mm to 1mm, and the spring rate is also 1:1

other cars like the FD, Miata have the shock in the middle of the arm so the ratio is like 0.7, so to have the same spring rate at the wheel, they need a stiffer spring
and a change in ride height would be like that too

the FC rear is 1:1, i'm not sure which way though, lol

 

This car started as floor sweepings and cast offs, and so the order ive done anything has been more to fix problems, but i'm finally starting to be able to fix things that i don't like
and #1 on the list is the clutch. i re-used an ACT extreme, and it works, it holds all the power you can make. it just has a really high pedal effort, and it seems like it wants more travel too. bad combo.
so this came out

and then this, which is going where it truly belongs, the garbage. to be fair its probably 20 years old, and its been in a couple cars


Issue #2 is the turbo oil drain, which i seem to just not be able to get right, lol
notice how the hex is hitting the bracket?


also the EGT probe doesn't seem to have enjoyed its time right in the middle of the exhaust runner, its like its hat got blown right off, lol

 

EGT sensors are wear items

 

well so far its mostly just cleaning and old car stuff.
the only thing, so far that is interesting is that there was some kind of sludge monster living in my shifter

literally no idea what this is
maybe we can get it to make a sequel for the blob?

 

Yikes. I had something similar. Sometimes it's the remnants of the shifter bushings, but there's way too much of it in your shifter housing for that to be it.

Question for you. I'm considering switching to S5 bumpers at some point, and I'm noticing that the fog lights seem to block the brake duct opening. Am I right about that? Fog lights would be nice, but if they block the opening then I'm not sure I'd want them. Even though my car is a street car.

 

i don't have a good pic, but there is duct thing behind the light

 

After a lot of cleaning, and swearing (my puller didn't have a big enough weight on it to move the pilot bearing), it was finally time to put the new clutch on.
when i started looking it was immediately apparent that clutches were expensive now. a stage 1 Exedy is like $800! which is almost the same as an OS Giken!
it was really tempting to get an OS Giken, its the OG badass clutch (and if i had to do it over i might have)

the OS Giken is good for like 500hp, which is ~200 more than i can possibly make, i couldn't find how much it weighs. there used to be heavy and light ones, but i think they just have one now. i could call and ask, or email, and they would know.
OS Giken also sells rebuilt kits and all the parts and stuff, so i looked into getting a used one, and rebuilding it, but it would have been like $50 cheaper than just buying a new one.

the other option became the one i did buy, an ORC 400 Light. its rated for ~400hp, which is about 50 more than i can possibly make (with this turbo), and the specs included the pedal effort, which is pretty neat.

its too bad you can't see it when its on the car, its pretty


i also wonder if they made it for me. (BED 24/7 is something to aspire too?)


i knew it was a single disc, but it turns out to be a fiber single disc.

i forgot pics, but the ORC is 12kg, or 26.4lbs
the ACT pressure plate, disc and flywheel was 30lbs, so like 2kg heavier, which i didn't expect
the ACT flywheel on its own is 14lbs

 

The funny bit is that we got a chat GPT thing at work and i asked it how to choose between the OS Giken and the ORC.


Deciding between the OS Giken TS2B and the ORC 400 Light HP (Ogura Racing Clutch) depends on your specific needs, driving style, and the application of your vehicle. Both are high-quality clutches designed for performance, but they cater to slightly different use cases. Here's a breakdown to help you make an informed decision:
1. Key Factors to Consider

a. Power Handling

• OS Giken TS2B:
  • A twin-plate clutch designed for high-power applications. It can handle 500–700+ horsepower, depending on the specific configuration.
  • Ideal for cars with significant power upgrades or for track use.
• ORC 400 Light HP:
  • A single-plate clutch designed for moderate to high-power applications, typically rated for around 400–450 horsepower.
  • Better suited for mildly tuned cars or street cars with occasional track use.

b. Driving Style

• OS Giken TS2B:
  • Excellent for track-focused builds or cars that see heavy-duty use, such as drag racing, circuit racing, or drifting.
  • The twin-plate design provides better heat dissipation and durability under extreme conditions.
  • Slightly heavier pedal feel and more aggressive engagement, which may not be ideal for daily driving.
• ORC 400 Light HP:
  • Designed for street and light track use, with a focus on smoother engagement and lighter pedal feel compared to twin-plate clutches.
  • Easier to drive in stop-and-go traffic, making it more practical for daily driving.

c. Durability and Longevity

• OS Giken TS2B:
  • Known for exceptional durability and longevity, even under extreme conditions. The twin-plate design reduces wear on individual components.
• ORC 400 Light HP:
  • Durable for its intended power range but may wear faster if pushed beyond its limits or used in extreme racing conditions.

d. Weight and Rotational Mass

• Both clutches are designed to reduce rotational mass compared to stock clutches, improving throttle response and acceleration.
• The ORC 400 Light HP is generally lighter due to its single-plate design, which may provide a slight edge in responsiveness for street use.

e. Noise and Comfort

• OS Giken TS2B:
  • Twin-plate clutches can produce more noise (e.g., "chatter") at idle or during engagement, which is common for high-performance clutches.
• ORC 400 Light HP:
  • Typically quieter and smoother, making it more comfortable for daily driving.

2. Use Case Scenarios

Choose OS Giken TS2B if:

• Your car is heavily modified and produces 500+ horsepower.
• You plan to use the car primarily for track days, racing, or drifting.
• You prioritize performance, durability, and power handling over comfort.

Choose ORC 400 Light HP if:

• Your car is moderately tuned and produces 400–450 horsepower or less.
• You use the car primarily for street driving with occasional track use.
• You want a clutch that balances performance with daily drivability and comfort.

3. Budget

• The OS Giken TS2B is generally more expensive due to its twin-plate design and higher power-handling capabilities.
• The ORC 400 Light HP is more affordable and may be a better value if your car doesn’t require the extreme performance of a twin-plate clutch.

4. Reputation and Support

• OS Giken: Known for its engineering excellence and reliability in motorsports. Their clutches are highly regarded for their durability and performance.
• Ogura Racing Clutch (ORC): Also a reputable brand, particularly in Japan, with a focus on high-quality clutches for street and light track use.

Final Recommendation

• If your car is a high-horsepower build or you’re focused on track performance, go with the OS Giken TS2B.
• If you’re looking for a street-friendly clutch with occasional track use and don’t need extreme power handling, the ORC 400 Light HP is a great choice.

Ultimately, the decision comes down to your car’s power level, how you plan to use it, and your preference for comfort versus performance. If you're still unsure, consulting with a trusted tuner or performance shop familiar with your car and driving goals can help you make the best choice. 😊

AI-generated content may be incorrect

 

While cleaning my transmission, i found not one, not two but three different writings on it, and then i got it from a guy who got it from somewhere, so lol!


second one is hard to see, and the third came right off, lol. i did spend hours, but its more "clean" than clean

and here it is ready for the part that nobody wanted to do

my technique is to slide it under the car, and then put the floor jack under it, and once its up in the tunnel, it kind of can't fall.
this one was a little tricky, normally the engine leans back, but mine didn't. i think the competition mounts maybe.
there isn't much room to go in with the transmission straight. it took a while, i had a few long bolts and when i got those in, i sort of gradually walked the trans into the engine.

eventually its in, and i put the slave cylinder on so i could push the pedal and see what its like.
its firmer than i was expecting. i guess the stock clutch can feel a bit mushy (its been a looooong time since i drove one)
so like its not mushy at all, it feels really direct. we'll see what its like when i get the rest of the thing together

 

The HKS manifold has bosses on it that look like they would fit the stock Mazda heat shields. i found a set, and took the plunge

and it does,

sort of, the T04E compressor is bigger. this is where it would have been nice to have the instructions, they would have mentioned what to do
so i kind of cut a couple of gussets, and got the hammer out


i was hoping to be able to put the turbo on the manifold and then put the assembly on the car, but the heat shield comes down to the oil pan.
why would i do that? there is one nut, top front, that is hard to get to, even on the bench.

but i'm going to need to bring all my wrenches, i got it last time, its just really difficult.
and then the other shields fit.


there were some nicer shields that came up, and initially i was bummed, but since i've had to chop mine up, i'm not so bothered anymore.
i'm hoping that this will help with heat soak. on the freeway intake temps are fine, ~32c on a ~26-28c day.
the trouble is at low speed, intake temps just go up to the mid 40's

 

aaaaaAAand i broke it. i added a wiring harness clamp, and put it on the trans where the ground would have gone. (the FD uses on on the upper intake)
and i forgot about it, and when the trans came out, i yanked on the harness.
i was hoping it was fine, but it didn't start, ECU won't connect, and i think the engine is full of gas now?

after thinking about it, i pulled the harness and found this. which is the ground on top of the engine.

unwrapping the harness, it really only was the one wire. happy, but a little surprised.

it broke where two wires were crimped down to the one. this would have made it shorter and more awkward, so i ended up extending the wires like 2"
i've got a bucket of old harnii

i plugged it back in, and the ECU is happy, so i re-wrapped it, and have been putting it back.
which of course i forgot where it went, and with the longer ground, the harness can go in a different place, which is better.

the FD harness routing is a lot different than the FC, so the FC harness is a little chaotic, and then i have a little additional harness to run the Fuel Temp sensor and double throttle solenoid, so there is a big pile of wires under the plenum.

oh and i also cut the FC air temp connector off, and changed it to the one for the fast FD sensor, which is like an S4 BAC or injector

needless to say the bonus harness holder thing, didn't go back on.

 

I used run of the mill VHT silver exhaust paint on my turbo heat shields when I raced my stock hybrid turbo and amazingly it stayed minty (on the outside).

Thanks for finding out the stock heat shield fits that manifold! I gotta add that to mine now.

 

since the heat shield has to modified to fit the compressor, i'd be tempted to do the manifold heat shield out of that new fangled stuff the cool kids use
i think you could almost form it around a brick, lol

Mazda's is like that too, its a flat sheet that is pressed into shape. although it has a layer of like a fiberglass, and then a wire mesh to hold that in

 

so i put the harness back on, and since the ground is longer now, the harness went back in a little differently (and i forgot how it went before, lol)
its actually better now, the layout is really different between the FC and FD, so its kind of like this pile of wires.

it was as flooded as i've ever had it, but i unplugged the circuit opening relay, and cranked it for like a battery and a half
once it started it has run the same as before.

new clutch is nice, it acts like how i remember a stock clutch, but if your aggressive its grabby, and the stock clutch is maybe more linear?
basically i driven it around the block a few times, so TBD on anything else, but it is alive

 

since the EGT probe is in a bad place, it broke the probe in ~800miles of mostly freeway driving.
the other thing i did was add an oil temp gauge, as usual oil temps aren't what i would have predicted.

also gauge color wasn't what i would have predicted, but its what was for sale at the time


i used an RE Amemyia bolt thing to put the sender in front of the oil filter

the good part is that the GReddy sender threads right in, the bad part is that it has a second hole for oil pressure, and i should have bought on with just the one hole. i put a plug in it, it might leak a lot

anyways the surprise was that oil temps basically track coolant temps until the thermostat in the oil cooler opens, and then its been hovering around 80c. i haven't really driven it very far yet, so we'll see what it does when i do!

 

so in 2023, i bought an re-amemiya wing, the Type 1. i think its my favorite. at the time there were two for sale, and i bought the broken one with the sticker on it!
in white i'm not really liking it, its too big?



you can see the crack on the right side, it doesn't look too bad to fix. or maybe its a good into to fiberglass?
the wing looks like maybe it was 2 pieces, top and bottom, and then those are bonded together, and this one is broken on that seam

 

yesterday, i had an extra coffee, and decided to see what it was like in blue, so i basically gave it a really half *** coat of blue, and i like it much better




i did mask off the damaged part (you can see i missed with the paint too), and re-amemiya sticker, i mean if it didn't have the sticker i would have had a wing that wasn't broken! (it was the same money)
although its THIS car, so i'm contemplating just giving it a second color coat, and a clear and just not fixing it, lol
like the rest of the body work, these aren't the droids you're looking for....

 

This is awesome. Looks badass.

 

agreed! here is another pic, it seems like it follows the same line as the hood?


up next are tires, the fronts fit nicely, but the rears don't.
i was poking around in one of my Mazdaspeed catalogs and they have no only the wheel fitment but also the tire sizes. its odd but the Mazdaspeed fit is more aggressive than the Volk fitment!
Rays/Volk have all of their old catalogs online in PDF, so you can see what they had in 1991.



i'm not sure how legible these are, but they are both 17x7 in the front, Volk is a 33 offset and Mazdaspeed is 30, 3mm, close enough. and lets not forget the most JDM part ever, my 1mm wheel spacers, so i'm really 32 offset.
i am running a 205/50/17, and i thought that was a normal size, but when i bought them the tire guy gave me a funny look. Mazdaspeed wants a 215/45/17....

in the rear though Mazdaspeed is a 30 offset and Rays/Volk are 36, (i'm 35!) which IS different enough to notice. i'm also running 225/45/17's , which look less beefy than a 205/50.
Mazdaspeed wants a 235/45/17.

these wheels are unique in that they use a spacer to get them on the car in the first place,

so 5mm could be done with a different spacer. mine, pictured above, are 13mm, so i need like 18mm. i do own a pair of 27mm ones, which are too much.
plan is to get tires in the 215/45/17 and 235/45/17 size and see what that does.

 

Love the wing!

Easy enough to repair a crack with a little patience. Grab some polyester or vinylester resin and some chop strand mat. Epoxy resin is great, but it won't play nicely with gel coat and it wont work as well with chop strand (wont melt the glue).

 

thank you. the crack is like 2 cracks, plan is to cut the vertical part out, which would give access to the horizontal crack, and then i can make a patch piece. is that good? bad?
it would be my first try with fiberglass, seems like a decent place to start.

i found the pics from the ad (which i blew right past!)