If you're going full on diy, saw off the end and weld a threaded bung on and use any old damper that threads in. Do you still want the s4 one?

 

Yeah, id like to add the damper/ something a little more long term than a giant glob of jb weld and just in case anyone else wanted to know if it would fit.

 

Damper

 

So you recommend I just weld that into the end of the rail?

 

I'm trying to link the bung and the damper but the formatting is acting up
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32338589318...Bk9SR5LP2d6sYQ

 

Weld that bung on, thread in the damper I linked and there ya go.

 

you would not believe how long it took me to put the videos in the last post. Try using the hyperlink button and not control k.

 

hate to tell you but they all lead to the bungs. I get the point though.

 

Check the first one again.

 

If I copy and paste it works, if I click it goes to the bung, that's how it was working with my video links, idk why they all led to the same place.

 

Awesome. Lot of progress going on.

 

Today was a great day for the first real road test. First off I wanted to fix the 3 error codes.
1 for the short range tps -> ordered a used one
2 for the long range tps -> cut off the wires for the short range because it doesn't work and plugged the long range in
3: O2 sensor reading not doing what it should within 10 seconds or something like that -> one of the solenoids had a disconnected vacuum line that needed attached

Now that the car is completely refurbished I added back the blower motor, the ecu cover, the seats, and the roof (its warm, but not that warm)

I found a few interesting things putting it back together.

There's 3 wires going into this thing 2 of which are pretty heavy, is this like a heater or something for when the engines cold? id imagine its some sort of relay but who knows.

Here's whats inside the stock tps, like a slider that slides on 3 contacts (I thought I could add a spring back to it but I failed)

aaaaand at first I thought it wasn't going to start. I need to look into that it cranks for a while, I think its TPS related, maybe me messing with the pedal.


At first it was like it had a hesitation, it wouldn't run at 3500 just above or below, but that disappeared. But, the car drives perfectly.
Except for the temp climbing to 201 and it eating 2 quarts of water at a pit stop. Overall some kinks to work out but its SUPER COOL AND DRIVES REALLY NICELY.
Limiting it ti 4000 rpm to break in requires more self control than I normally possess but I was able to do it somehow.
So I definitely need a new rad and then I can take it on a longer trip, also my speedo doesn't work, so I need to resolve those 2 things before I take it on a longer trip but its running really good right now it even hot started at 210F so overall a really good day and Im really happy that it finally got out for a first drive, once again thank all you guys for your help.

 

If you mean the thing next to the blower fan it's likely the resistor.

 

Oh yeah that makes a lot of sense

 

Congrats on getting it running. It's a great feeling!

 

It feels great, was starting to wonder if it was going to become a shop decoration .

Does anyone know what the function is of the atf flowing through the rad? I’ve heard it’s for cooling which I assumed but I also heard it is to get the atf up to operating temp quicker. If I go with an aftermarket rad it won’t have the atf cooler built into it, will this result in it taking a while to get up to temp and shifting bad, or is this negligible. If it doesn’t need the heating how big of a cooler would I need?

 

It probably does heat it up faster but I believe the primary reason is to act as a cooling loop. If you want to take a detailed approach you could look in the FSM to find the operating temp and then run a small cooler with a thermostat to bypass below operating temp. For an easy approach a small cooler in the loop will probably work fine.

You'll probably have trouble finding much info on the AT around here because the power loss associated with them is a big discourager. My approach would be to run a small cooler and enjoy the car as is. If you really like the rotary/FC I'd recommend just buying a manual turbo model.

 

I like working on things so swaps might be coming waaaaayyyyyyyy on down the line. I was thinking something the size of the trans cooler on a 2002 Silverado 3/4 ton, I have one atm.

 

Yeah, it's just a cooling loop for the ATF. I wouldn't recommend running without it though; it might be bad for the transmission.

It only takes the bottom part of the rad, and the coolant is usually around 195F anyways. So I think the truck cooler you mentioned will be more than adequate.

 

Well I ended up taking it to a local shop to get fixed for like 50$, overall my engine bay should be cleaner, in the future If I get an aluminum rad I might delete the ps cooling lop and put 2 of These there, one for ps and one for ac. But I’ll probably hold the aluminum rad until the manual swap.

 

That coolers should work for the trans. The car already has a PS cooling loop from the factory so unless it's leaking you shouldn't need to replace it.

 

It's been a little while, the rust repair took quite a while, mostly because I procrastinate, don't enjoy it, and I can be a perfectionist sometimes. I fixed a lot of little issues and for the first time since I bought it, an interior or well most of one, pics coming later.

A little bit of WD-40 can make all your plastic brand new!

Can I replace this rubber or do I need a whole new shock before it comes flying up through the hood?

 

That rubber part is the upper strut mount, and it can be replaced. OEM is expensive but the KYB part is pretty similar. I would probably replace both as a set.


EDIT: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/kyb-front-strut-mounts-1156090/

 

Thanks! I ordered the KYB ones from rock auto

 

Interior pics incoming



in case you were wondering the steering wheel trim is way different between airbag and non airbag cars, I’ve got a 3d printed piece on there for now. Started it and changed the oil and I noticed a few things. 1 there’s no oil in the omp lines in the time it takes to idle up to 165 and 2 the engine doesn’t rev up when the headlights turn on it just stalls it does idle with the new tps though, it seems to have trouble figuring itself out on a cold start and doesn’t idle at first. I’ve got a few suspects on the headlight issue but do you guys think it’s normal for the omp lines not to fill up like that?