Sensor for the cold start and oil level sensors.

 

BAC, IAT and solenoids.



The wire for the dash temp gauge.



In the blur beside the top oil neck. Both of these pictures have connectors that come from the passenger harness.

 

The passenger side is kind of simple. But has many connections.



If the stock mounting brackets are still on the harness. It is fairly simple to figure out where they go, if you know the harness route.

I probably missed something, Kinda short on time. I might be able to post more tomorrow.

 

Thanks for all your help and pictures! That yellow wire should be the round single connector that goes from the temperature sensor to the temp gauge on the dashboard! Great!
Once all the connections are accounted for, cleaning and making sure that they are fully connected. I came across one that I only pushed in halfway!
Your pictures will be very helpfull routing the harnesses so they all fit! You know that old saying: bla-bla-bla.........

The plastic used on the connectors is not aging well, just thinking about looking at them and they start to crumbling to pieces!
Silicon grease is good for rubber and plastic, I think I will put some on the outside of the connectors so they are not as brittle as they could be. What do you think?

 

I am not sure about the brittle plastics. Mine are still playable. I would got a de-pinning tool and replace all of them. Kind of a non- issue if the wires are cooked. too.
There is at least in thread ion here listing the manufacturer of the plastic ends on here somewhere. Then it's a matter of looking through half a bazillolion parts.
There aren't many original owner car left, best wishes.

 

Well, I had the alternator mount completely backwards on the photo posted. The bend goes up.


You can see it here in a before picture, bottom left.

 

On the last picture at the bottom is a connector, your picture shows it connected at an angle.
Please clean & seat it correctly as this is a major grounding point not to be trifled with!

 

Thanks for the heads up! I must have bumped it messing around in there. I cleaned the contacts with scotch bright and scraped some paint. That was 20 years ago or so and the no-ox kept it corrosion free all those years.



This is what I found on the firewall after 20 years. I did clean and treat the pins better though. I skipped that part years ago.

 

After installing my replacement oil cooler I noticed the 1/4" gap from the top of the cooler and the heat deflector that goes on the A/C condenser. Without any foam this gap will allow hot airflow from the cooler to go upward (even though there is a 45-degree bend at the top of the deflector) and through the condenser and radiator.

My reasoning is, if I fill this gap with a thin piece of foam, the airflow through the oil cooler will have to go downward, with minimum heat getting into the condenser and radiator.

My car is black, and I have changed the type of freon to R-34, which reduces the amount of cooling from the A/C. It really does not cool my interior on a hot day! Anything that helps the condenser remove heat from the system is a win!

What do you think of my idea? Please let me know.

 

This single harness holder has two attachment points; from this picture I see that they are both used for just one part of the harness. It just routes the harness downwards, away from the fuel lines.
Thanks for the picture, that answered that question.

 

I am going to post some pictures of my passenger side electrical harness. I looked at my workshop manual and noticed that it makes a counterclockwise path over the top of the rotor housings.

Here is my first bracket attachment point for the harness as it reaches the engine from the shock tower.

Bracket to LIM
This is the bracket that should attach to the back of the air pump!

Now to route it along the front of the engine.

Fits like a glove! Yeh, right.

Now for the bending.

Should it route behind the alternator bracket mounting point!


I added this harness holder to the rear housing.

Next bend.

Along the back of the housing. You can see my EGI ground at the upper left.

You can see the single round connector that has to reach all the way to under the oil pressure sender!
Now I have to break out the wire stretcher!

Now we are at the end of the harness.

Are these the primary injector connectors?

I'm in so much trouble! Which one is for front injector?
I don't need to label them, I just know which is which!

Any advice will be appreciated.

 

Good to know you are still at it. The first bracket after the passenger firewall is backwards and in the wrong spot. It goes to the front most bolt on the UIM pointing to the front of the car.



You have it bolted to where the oil injector lines have the hold-down bracket.



The first two white connectors are for the ACV. The two next are the secondaries.



I went low with the harness by the alternator. That does not work, go high.
The longest connector in the harness, mine is green, goes to the temp sensor near the alternator. That connector needs to be below the main harness.



You can see the alternator connector there, too. Another reason to go high as well, it doesn't reach.

The last bend before the harness dives under the rack is not quite right on yours but will probably work as long as the rack fits, if you are using it.

The two small identical white connectors are for the air intake temp sensor on the dynamic chamber.

The CAS connector looks like an injector connector, mine is blue.



If you can get connector to reach, the rest fall into place.

The short connector that you need a wire stretcher for... mine comes out behind the oil fill neck.



If that doesn't not reach, readjust the harness until it does. Otherwise, you will have to cut and splice, with or without a new connector.

I think after all the solenoids connectors, there are three identical looking connectors. Longest one is the temp sensor, mine's green. The second shortest is the front rotor injector and the shortest one is the injector for the rear rotor.

Also, don't forget the service manual has the pinout for the injectors. If I am not mistaken, they are labeled in the FSM as front and rear. Just ohm the connections, point to point. it can be a little tricky to pick the correct pin on the connector.

Also, if that fails, pull back the tape on the harness and check wire colors in the wiring section in the FSM.

I ohmed mine and didn't label it. I just assumed the longer of the two went to the front injector, kinda nervous about that one.

My car will be very close to inspection ready next week. I have not been posting due to time constraints. I hope this helps!

Edit: Perhaps, I was a bit optimistic. My car will be on four wheels in a week or so, barring any major mistakes, unintended consequences or unexpected issues. So, maybe two weeks or so before the first test dive, then to get an alignment and then a state inspection, fingers crossed.

 

As for this: I have a 1x1" piece of open cell foam on there now. It just touches the tray. There was something there originally. I was kind of thinking it was just there for impact dampening. Not sure though .....

 

I forgot the solenoids order, if you are using them. I am sure that most know this but there are four solenoids labeled with the same part number, they are not all the same.....
It is two of one type and two of another... I got them mixed up and looked on my spare engine. They do look different from one another so, that helps.

 

Yes, I am going to size a piece of foam that I will glue onto the bottom of the oil cooler. It should fill the entire space from the oil cooler to the under tray.

My question is should I put a strip of foam on the top of the oil cooler that fills the gap between the top of the cooler and the heat shield that attaches to the A/C condenser.
Without the strip of foam on top, airflow will allow some air to enter the gap and push the hot air exiting the oil cooler downward under the condenser and radiator.
This sounds like what the design was intended do.

Wow, I just answered my own question! Maybe.

What kind of adhesive will be best to use for gluing the foam to the bottom of the oil cooler?

 

Thanks for all the pictures, with these and your notes I should be able to hook up the harness now!

What did you use for the fabric tape on your harness? Is it electrical tape or not. It looks better than the shiny electrical tape I used.

 

I used electrical tape everywhere and harness tape over top of the electrical tape near the engine or exhaust. The harness tape holds up very well to heat, unlike electrical tape.

 

On this episode of "Believe It Or Not" I finally did my compression test. I did not have throttle body hooked up when I did this so, this might not be correct....

Front



Rear






Maybe all the carbon if helping the engine?? I screwed up somewhere or the tester isn't accurate?? Maybe this completely accurate on an engine with 118,000 miles??.......

 

Wow, those are some healthy numbers! I don't know if having the TB off makes a difference, as long as the blades are open, right? Engine has never come apart ever? Even if it's say 25% high, I'd be happy with the mileage it's got.

 

I originally got near 100 with a regular compression testing, after calculating for altitude. I would say realistically, this more accurate, somewhere just north or 100 on most faces. Considering the email that I sent the tester company went unanswered, I might not know until I meet someone with another or rent one.

Also, BTW, this was a cold engine.

Now as far as if the engine was ever replaced, I am not certain. I am the second owner and the car and it would not even run at all without your foot on the pedal at 90,??? miles. I am not sure how quickly these engines gum up by driving like a granny.

Also, considering the front fender had primer on it for more than 10 years, it is unlikely he spent the cash on a different engine.

 

Some great news here! I finished enough work on the car to get state registration and insurance for the car.
Less than 30 miles of test driving and a four wheel allaignment later, the car has a valid Pa state inspection.

There were many fails along the way. By fails, I mean, a high amount of frustrating setbacks. I just kept chipping away at everything until it was good enough.

It's been a crazy journey so far and as many of you know, these cars are almost never done. I will do my best to document how I got here from the last post forward.

 

Congrats Jeff! I know you've been putting in the work, and it's paying off. Looking forward to the update.

 

HI everyone,

Let's start with where can I purchase "Harness Tape"? It looks much better than the shiny electrical tape I have on there now!

Why am I having such a hard time with the harness connections, could it be that I just turned 71 and I think I have the beginnings of Alsheimer's.
Can't keep a thought in my head for more than a couple of minutes. So, I am depending on everyone on the forum to keep me on track!
Treat me like a 16-year-old that is new to car repair, I won't be offended at all.

Here is a picture of a connection that has me concerned.

When I went to connect the oil level sensor to the harness connection, both parts had their mating plugs still in them and it looked like the wires were cut off.
I removed the two cut connectors and was able to make the connection.

My question is about why a two-wire connector for a single wire connection?
I do not recall cutting these wires, perhaps they were broken when I took out the engine?
I replaced the oil pan with one that only had only the oil level sensor, the sub-zero temp. connection was never there.
I do not remember if I used the sensor I had or the one that came with the oil pan?

So, now I will document the connections I can't match and ask you where I messed up.
Thanks for all the assistance you kindly provided!

 

I noticed that too with the two wire thing. Look closely at the connector, one side is plugged with some black stuff, likely from the factory. Maybe they didn't want to add to the connectors they already on hand at the factory or the company didn't make a single connection version. It doesn't seem that the oil lever sensor would need a sealed connector like that, I guess it does.

If you don't have the sub-zero connection just tape it up where it doesn't get in the way.You could cut it too and seal the wire ends? I personally wouldn't leave it flapping around. If you haven't taken out the rest of the system, do so and block off the connection on the intake.

I bought my tape on Amazon hoping to get old school friction tape for my 4awg wire splices. What I got looked and felt just like harness tape. After getting a piece stuck to my clothing, I accidentally sent it through a wash and a dry cycle, it was still firmly attached when completed.

Just look up "harness tape" or "automotive harness tape" on the inter-webs. Just look into the heat rating, that's important. Also, be aware that dirt sticks a lot to harness tape. I only used it where Mazda did, double layered with the electrical tape on the bottom. The harness at the passenger wheel well half the way down or so... all the way to the end. It you want it everywhere that works, too. I would probably still do two layer where Mazda did though. The overwhelming majority of my harness wire near the engine and manifold is still soft almost 40 years later. keep in mind, this car has also been a garage queen most of its life.

 

Time to start getting caught up. This end section it is tough to remember the exact order of things. I will do my best though.

I think that I left off here in the engine bay.




Besides the not so great tape job, I see two problems that are rather annoying. I will skip that for now. If you spot something, let me know. I wish I had the time to post as I went for the insights from members. Oh well, I suppose it is never to late to fix something.
I needed to finish the grounding, radiator, throttle body and intake for the first start. I will begin here.

As some of you noticed, there were some green random wires in pictures. Those are for the igniters/coils, whatever you call them. Those start at the engine for my star grounding scheme. I did not unwrap all of the previously re-taped harness to add these. I just hid them from the top view as much as possible. I don't have pictures of that but it looks ok, I suppose, all things considered.

I needed to isolate the coils from the chassis ground so, I added rubber washers to space the coils from the chassis.





As you can see I also widened the mounting holes so the screw did not touch the brackets.
I crimped the lugs with these...




I don't really like the die set that came with them. Any suggestions for a better die set are welcome.

I added some loom after crimping the lugs and added some heat shrink.






I added more rubber washers and mounted the coils with stock nuts. I am not sure it is possible to test for ground isolation but the voltage drop was very low across these grounds so, success?

Edit: I did order nylon top hat washers and they were on back order. I will revisit this later. I will need to widen the bracket holes more to fit.
Also, I know disconnecting the ground wires would work for the isolation test. That worked with the trailing. With the leading bolted to the rear, I would need to take off the ground, removing the coil. Afterwards if I didn't line it back perfect it touch. The prior test would be inaccurate. Maybe just move the ground to the front somewhere?