'90 FC3s 13B Turbo Build
03-05-13, 12:15 PM
#26
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Long time since my last post, winter slowing things down and Im trying to save up for gas and entry fees for upcoming season. i made some progress with the IC setup though. Here are some pictures of mocked brackets and how everything should kinda look like, I have a load of stuff to finish and need the car to be done in about 6 weeks.
04-13-13, 12:32 AM
#28
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Finally nice weather to work on the car!
Engine bay clean up and painted
Wiring organized and cleaned off from oil spills
Finished making a strong support for radiator and IC
Replaced oil line crush washers
Replaced steering rack o-rings
Relocated battery to the back with a kill-off switch
Ran new brake lines throughout the car
The IC will get an electric fan and will duct the bottom for the radiator
Here are some progress pictures so far
Engine bay clean up and painted
Wiring organized and cleaned off from oil spills
Finished making a strong support for radiator and IC
Replaced oil line crush washers
Replaced steering rack o-rings
Relocated battery to the back with a kill-off switch
Ran new brake lines throughout the car
The IC will get an electric fan and will duct the bottom for the radiator
Here are some progress pictures so far
05-03-13, 03:08 PM
#32
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Got some more work done to finish off little bits.
AWR racing camber links installed, will run about -.5 instead of -3 degrees I ran last year.
All fluids filled and wiring finalized.
Car started on the 4th try after sitting for 6 months filled with Marvel Mystery oil.
Pretty sure this engine has been rebuild before being shipped to US.
All that's left to do is get it aligned sometime next week and get ready for a drift event on the 12th.
Going to leave a few pictures of it as of now
Proper rear camber ftw.
AWR racing camber links installed, will run about -.5 instead of -3 degrees I ran last year.
All fluids filled and wiring finalized.
Car started on the 4th try after sitting for 6 months filled with Marvel Mystery oil.
Pretty sure this engine has been rebuild before being shipped to US.
All that's left to do is get it aligned sometime next week and get ready for a drift event on the 12th.
Going to leave a few pictures of it as of now
Proper rear camber ftw.
05-13-13, 10:29 PM
#35
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Finally! Got to drive a Clubloose Midvale event. Car felt so much better than last year. Got an alignment, -.7 rear really made a huge impact on the amount if grip in the back. Abercrombie's knuckles are the best investment I made over the winter, new IC setup really improved the response and I had to problem moderating the throttle. Water temps haven't gone past 194 during a run and dropped within 10 seconds back to 187, IC hasn't heat soaked, however, it was only 60F ambient temperature, it WILL get a fan during the summer. Here are some pictures and a short video toward the end of the day, I had close to no tread left on the tires.
05-31-13, 11:04 PM
#38
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So toward the end of the event and after I noticed to feel that the clutch is starting to give up, engagement point was crap and I knew that the disk wouldn't have much left in it since it is used and has slipped before. In a hurry to make another Midvale even in June I started to gather everything to replace the clutch kit and resurface the flywheel. Went to Harbor Freight to buy a 3/4 drive breaker bar for the 54mm socket to remove the flywheel bolt and I have to say the breaker bar is pretty insane, rated for 750ft/lbs I do not see that thing failing anytime soon. I ordered a Spec stage 3, 6 puck sprung disk kit. Got the flywheel resurfaced by NAPA for 50$ and just waiting for local Mazda dealer to transport rear oil seal sometime next week. I got blue thread locker for the flywheel nut to be safe and made my own flywheel holder and puller out of spare bolts and metal.
Picture update for now
Picture update for now
06-06-13, 07:03 PM
#39
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Finally got the time and tools to install the clutch.
Bought moly grease for the shaft, bearing, and fork lubricant.
Installed a new pilot bearing seal.
Replaced the rear oil seal. (in the pictures you'll see oil track it was leaving on the rear iron)
Replaced and greased the throughout bearing.
Tightened the flywheel nut with the 3/4 drive beaker bar I bought to the factory marks and used a 250ft/lbs torque wrench to make sure I was above the minimum range, I also put blue thread locker on it.
Tightened the pressure plate bolts and voila!
Will put the tranny in with everything else to run the car this weekend as I need to break the clutch in on Tuesday in one day! Next drift event being on the 16th of June.
Bought moly grease for the shaft, bearing, and fork lubricant.
Installed a new pilot bearing seal.
Replaced the rear oil seal. (in the pictures you'll see oil track it was leaving on the rear iron)
Replaced and greased the throughout bearing.
Tightened the flywheel nut with the 3/4 drive beaker bar I bought to the factory marks and used a 250ft/lbs torque wrench to make sure I was above the minimum range, I also put blue thread locker on it.
Tightened the pressure plate bolts and voila!
Will put the tranny in with everything else to run the car this weekend as I need to break the clutch in on Tuesday in one day! Next drift event being on the 16th of June.
06-06-13, 09:41 PM
#40
So curious....I know you said that the radiator/temps haven't exceeded 1xx, but doesnt it seem like the way that the radiator is placed along with the intercooler set up have a much poorer air flow causing it to have a higher chance of over heating? Maybe I'm not seeing something or maybe I am just wrong with my thought(s).
06-06-13, 09:52 PM
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So curious....I know you said that the radiator/temps haven't exceeded 1xx, but doesnt it seem like the way that the radiator is placed along with the intercooler set up have a much poorer air flow causing it to have a higher chance of over heating? Maybe I'm not seeing something or maybe I am just wrong with my thought(s).
[R]
[A] [INTERCOLLER] <--------Air
[D] <--------Air
[I] <--------Air
[A] <--------Air
[T] [O] <--------Air
[O] [I] <--------Air
[R} [L] <--------Air
If that makes sense
06-06-13, 10:13 PM
#42
The only thing blocking air to the radiator is the stock oil cooler, and a taurus fan is pulling air, its ice cold water and oil. Intercooler gets less air, but still doesn't seem to get hot at all, I run 10psi which is a little more than stock and the IC is way better than the stock top mount. Temps are great so far.
[R]
[A] [INTERCOLLER] <--------Air
[D] <--------Air
<--------Air
[A] <--------Air
[T] [O] <--------Air
[O] <--------Air
[R} [L] <--------Air
If that makes sense
06-16-13, 10:50 AM
#44
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I heard the factory manual (or common sense) recommends to drain the transmission before you remove it, or before you put it back in. I'd hate to know what will happen if you don't. 
07-09-13, 02:59 AM
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Haven't updates this in a while, so here it goes.
Clutch is finally broken in, however, I found more stupid sh*t wrong with the car. Whoever did the 5 speed swap in this car completely f**cked sh*t up. The clutch pedal is missing the assistant spring, letting the clutch master return the pedal, not good. From last drift event I guess I bent a rod that's part of the tie rod end so I had to replace that in a hurry for an event that happened this past weekend.
Here's the picture of the tie rod damage and its replacement.
And a pic from the recent event.
Clutch is finally broken in, however, I found more stupid sh*t wrong with the car. Whoever did the 5 speed swap in this car completely f**cked sh*t up. The clutch pedal is missing the assistant spring, letting the clutch master return the pedal, not good. From last drift event I guess I bent a rod that's part of the tie rod end so I had to replace that in a hurry for an event that happened this past weekend.
Here's the picture of the tie rod damage and its replacement.
And a pic from the recent event.
