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This weekend I ordered the few pieces I needed to out my louvers on the grey car from lrbspeed.com, they sell reproduction louvers for $350 a set if anybody is interested in a set for themselves.
My t2 lower intake is almost finished being port matched, and I swooped a t2 upper for the best price of free .99.
My buddy picked up a mk3 supra with a 2j swap and ended up buying my PNP Megasquirt and tomorrow I get to order the new Haltech Sprint RE. Finally got some new plugs since the set that came with the car were roached, who knows how old they were.
Runs much better now that it gets a decent spark, bolted in my 4 point cage, rebuilt my leaky caliper and threw on my Himni-Racing banner....bc racecar.
Once the Haltech gets in I need a T2 throttle body, TB cable, fuel rails and I'm ready for boost. Other than stock parts I need to pick up the turbo from my buddy, make a manifold, wastegate, and a meth kit shortly after it runs. I should be able to make 300-350 on my fuel set up but only time will tell really. I'm sure there will be some hiccup just like everything else on this car lol
When I got out of work tonight and stopped up at the shop my buddy had already wired most of the Haltech and put the actual Haltech box where the stock radio goes. I haven't decided if I'm gonna put a CD player in or not yet, but with some modifications it should easily fit.
The box itself is tiny, not even as wide as my buddies iPhone lol. But so far it seems pretty easy and the directions on how to wire it are easy enough I most likely could have managed to do it alone. We can get them for roughly $720 w/o a harness and $820 w/harness. Straight PNP harnesses may be available I'll have to check. The list of brands my buddy is a dealer for keeps growing, it's already double this list so I'll need to make a new one soon...
When I bought my wheels and some other parts I got some gold heat tape so technically I've done half my t2 lower intake for free....the best price clearly.
I also started final shaping of the ports on the intake but decided to call it quits just before everybody decided to murder me lol. I'll finish up one night when nobody is around.
All that's left is to wire in the coils and its all wired in, hopefully tomorrow I'll get to hear her fire up for the first time on the Haltech, I cannot wait to see what we can pull outta an n/a before we boost it.
Man looking good brotha I'm jealous of the louvers . But thanks for the heads up with Lrb .
And the manifolds will clean up nice . There's a lot to port out in there once you get going . When I did the rebuild I knife edged the ports in the irons so when entering the keg it was smooth . I'm about to start tuning again on my 6pt hx52 build
Right now I'm looking go see what kind of power it'll make n/a and so I'll have a tune on deck if necessary. I'd like to hit 150 whp but it's gonna be a challenge I think. Nobody needs my wing as much as I do...I'm a ricer at heart clearly lol
Got the car cranking tonight, grand total of what's needed was $109 for fuses, a fuse block, relays, and heat shrink. I keep forgetting to take pics, I mounted the fuse block on the driver side of the car since we ran the wires out that way. I'll definitely take more pics this weekend and hopefully hear it run and shoot some fireballs at all the damn piston pushers boxing me in lol
We got the car to idle!!!! After some dumb issues caused by many late nights and no sleep it fired up and idles like it never had a problem with it from the TB mod. The reason it cranked and wouldnt fire...a ground fell off lol. Realized it just as we were about to wire in LS1 coils, thankfully we realized it before I ran that LS junk by default. Plugged it in a bam insta-spark. After that it would fire for a second then die regardless of throttle input which turned out to be we forgot to wire the factory resistor box for the injectors so they were low impedance and the Haltech runs high impedance. Wired that in and then still wouldn't start, but that's bc I'm an idiot and didn't put the airbox back in so it would fire then die, this time bc if there is no air opening the flapper on the MAF the fuel pump won't kick on. Other than that all that's left is to wire up the tach, set up 2step so I can shoot fireballs on demand, and then start road tuning. Maybe even a trip to the dyno next weekend we'll see if we can arrange it.
We made some progress again over the weekend, so far I love the Haltech. My only complaint is when testing 2step it had a very slow bum, bum, bum,bum, POW!! Shot a 3ft flame out but not exactly figures it out yet. I assume I'm doing something wrong. While messing with the tune and letting the car run a bit I quickly realized I need to vent the shop, my eyes were on fire for hours even after shutting the car off lol. So I made a crafty lil exhaust vent so I wouldn't have to open the bay door all the way (I'm a freeze baby, if I'm cold I ain't workin lol.)
Works like a charm, the grey FC next to mine is a t2 I'm working on, I wish I had another one lol
When you town your car to a shop, make sure your straps are good otherwise...
Thankfully it was just an EMUSA, I'm replacing it with a CX Racing front mount since he didn't wanna spring for the treadstone. Until then I wedged my massive front mount for my red car in there to fix the giant boost leak.
Back to my car, that caliper I rebuilt is now leaking again so I'm gonna have to replace it, I was really hoping just rebuilding it would fix the problem but I'm guessing the core itself is bad. So now I wait for a new one to arrive and then it's Rd tune time and shortly after I'll hit the dyno and make a whopping 120whp if I'm lucky lol
This weekend I picked up a Koyo radiator and a s4 6 port for $150 from a buddy in Pittsburgh, I even got lucky and there were mazdatrix porting templates in the boxes.
The motor looks decent at least, I need to see how they clean up to determine what it's new life will be. She looks a bit tired though so I'm leaning towards trying to PP it, I have to drill my "race block" for Goopy oversized studs my boss is letting me.do on one of the bridgeports at my work so after that I'm thinking I should see if I can use some tooling and the bridgeport for this lil project. Hopefully it'll clean up so I can ruin it but end it's life in style.
I cleaned up that motor I picked up, all in all its decent. After we try our hands at a PP, if it's not ruined I'm gonna send the housings and irons over to Goopy to be lapped and refinished so they will be fresh.
The refurbishing of everything should also have a slight advantage of clearencing everything to rev higher, not as much as actually machining rotors but still won't be as "tight" as a factory motor. After i machine my other block for oversized studs ill start the machining of the PP sleeves, 45mm rotor side to 50mm on the outside. Things are getting interesting quickly round these parts.
The Haltech was pretty simple, and the directions were pretty clear about how to wire everything up. I can barely wire up a switch so that's sayin quite a lot lol
I also bought a universal harness and just cut the clips needed off the stock harness and wired them per the diagram. Only problem I have is I need to wire the tach still as well as set up 2 step properly. Did you use the stock harness to wire it up?
I decided the wheels needed a bit of a revamp so I painted them flat black, and the chrome lugs really make it all "pop" now. I'm in love with the new color combo.
I also took the car on its 2nd drive since I've bought it and didn't even make it out of our lot before running a cop and 2 more on the return trip... I traveled less than a mile round trip lol. I felt like I was being hunted, and lets just say at 3am my car is not exactly quiet. Surprisingly besides talking to the 1st cop, didn't even get bothered but I also didn't go over 3k rpms lol. Then until I get new self tappers, I had to take off the t2 skirts in case they fly off during our road tune session this weekend. I also swapped my BBS's vert wheels back on since the tires are like new and not bald and dry rotted like the black set.
Other than that I helped my buddy yank his motor outta his GTU for his swap and got presents for helping! My samco hoses back which I forgot I let him borrow, a s5 short shifter, and cone filter adapter for my MAF.
My Honda cam shifter is tapped for an s4 shifter so once I get a new drill and tap I'll make another one but the right thread. Until then I just wrapped the shifter threads with electrical tape and screwed it on. It's not gonna take any enthusiastic shifts but it'll do the job until I make the new one.
The "PNP" is more like a "universal" kit in all reality lmao...wouldn't have had these problems with an MS3 more than likely though since people have actually used it for a Rotary before and there's actually info available on how to build the board
03-21-16, 03:19 AM
Plugged it in a bam insta-spark. After that it would fire for a second then die regardless of throttle input which turned out to be we forgot to wire the factory resistor box for the injectors so they were low impedance and the Haltech runs high impedance. Wired that in and then still wouldn't start, but that's bc I'm an idiot and didn't put the airbox back in so it would fire then die, this time bc if there is no air opening the flapper on the MAF the fuel pump won't kick on. Other than that all that's left is to wire up the tach, set up 2step so I can shoot fireballs on demand, and then start road tuning. Maybe even a trip to the dyno next weekend we'll see if we can arrange it.
