Whizbang's GSLSE
11-17-13, 10:42 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
some updates and pictures.
the car cranks now. had issues with a ground causing slow cranking which has been resolved. the engine ground was just poor. moved it and added a second one.
Waiting for some 1/8" BSPT plugs to get here to close off the unused oil pressure port so i can continue trying to start the car. Using a Racing Beat sandwich adapter currently.
Wire is a fiero fan and is wired up to a relay for use with either a switch, or once I get another temp switch for the radiator, it can also be on via thermo switch. Since its a 3/8-18 thread sensor, im hoping something else used that so i can find other temp options.
But yea. seat still needs mounted and all that crap. still have no exhaust on it and I need to get my hands on a different 13b header. I think i have an FC one on there now and it sits far too low for my liking.
the car cranks now. had issues with a ground causing slow cranking which has been resolved. the engine ground was just poor. moved it and added a second one.
Waiting for some 1/8" BSPT plugs to get here to close off the unused oil pressure port so i can continue trying to start the car. Using a Racing Beat sandwich adapter currently.
Wire is a fiero fan and is wired up to a relay for use with either a switch, or once I get another temp switch for the radiator, it can also be on via thermo switch. Since its a 3/8-18 thread sensor, im hoping something else used that so i can find other temp options.
But yea. seat still needs mounted and all that crap. still have no exhaust on it and I need to get my hands on a different 13b header. I think i have an FC one on there now and it sits far too low for my liking.
11-18-13, 11:38 AM
#27
Nice progress. I'd like to install an S4 ECU in an 84-85 chassis as well. Looks like it just bolts onto the stock ECU bracket under the passenger carpet.
Two questions for you.
1) Did you keep a set of oil filled coils in the stock location for trailing just due to space restrictions? Looks like you kept the trailing ignitor and just hooked it up to the coils. FC plug wires are long enough. Then leading should be easy because the FC leading coil and ignitor base are smaller.
2) I think you meant to say 1/8" NPT, not BSP, right? The RB blue anodized oil pressure and temp adaptor is threaded for NPT fittings. Don't use BSP because it is smaller in diameter and slightly closer together threads.
Two questions for you.
1) Did you keep a set of oil filled coils in the stock location for trailing just due to space restrictions? Looks like you kept the trailing ignitor and just hooked it up to the coils. FC plug wires are long enough. Then leading should be easy because the FC leading coil and ignitor base are smaller.
2) I think you meant to say 1/8" NPT, not BSP, right? The RB blue anodized oil pressure and temp adaptor is threaded for NPT fittings. Don't use BSP because it is smaller in diameter and slightly closer together threads.
11-18-13, 12:47 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
1) Did you keep a set of oil filled coils in the stock location for trailing just due to space restrictions? Looks like you kept the trailing ignitor and just hooked it up to the coils. FC plug wires are long enough. Then leading should be easy because the FC leading coil and ignitor base are smaller.
2) I think you meant to say 1/8" NPT, not BSP, right? The RB blue anodized oil pressure and temp adapter is threaded for NPT fittings. Don't use BSP because it is smaller in diameter and slightly closer together threads.
11-18-13, 12:48 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
current update!
had issues starting it and keeping it from dying immediately and after doing just about every diagnostic on earth, turns out the plugs were just bad. Leadings were the wrong heat range and worn out, so i replace all four and she runs just peachy.
needs an exhaust now though. louder than **** open header.
had issues starting it and keeping it from dying immediately and after doing just about every diagnostic on earth, turns out the plugs were just bad. Leadings were the wrong heat range and worn out, so i replace all four and she runs just peachy.
needs an exhaust now though. louder than **** open header.
11-18-13, 03:03 PM
#30
Cool! And thanks for the info. I think I have the N304 ECU bracket to throw on the N326 ECU. Good luck making the BSP plug fit the RB adaptor.
The RB FC header should have an O2 bung down at the collector. Any desire to weld in another one up at the stock manifold location (at the upper bend on this road race header)? Or just extend the O2 wire down?
The FC collected header can be chopped, re-angled and used in an FB. However I prefer a long primary for an NA these days.
I did a modded FC collected header in the rotary GLC but it just doesn't have the low end I'm looking for. Looking forward to a long primary in the spring.
The RB FC header should have an O2 bung down at the collector. Any desire to weld in another one up at the stock manifold location (at the upper bend on this road race header)? Or just extend the O2 wire down?
The FC collected header can be chopped, re-angled and used in an FB. However I prefer a long primary for an NA these days.
I did a modded FC collected header in the rotary GLC but it just doesn't have the low end I'm looking for. Looking forward to a long primary in the spring.
12-08-13, 12:33 PM
#34
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Thread Starter
so the GSLSE header was a little better for clearance. just FYI.
also, things have gone a little different! pics to come, just waiting on a few bits to get it more complete.
also, things have gone a little different! pics to come, just waiting on a few bits to get it more complete.
12-11-13, 01:34 PM
#35
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Thread Starter
carb is jetted and whatnot.
40mm venturi
195 air and fuel jet
F4 emulsion tube
also for various reasons, going manual brakes. 3/4 front 7/8 rear
40mm venturi
195 air and fuel jet
F4 emulsion tube
also for various reasons, going manual brakes. 3/4 front 7/8 rear
12-12-13, 07:14 PM
#36
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little more from today. starting to muck about with the brake pedal and whatnot for the wilwood masters too. Brake pedal is modified. Moved the attachment up some to get about a 6.5 pedal ratio versus the 4.77 factory. Need to do a little more welding and drilling to finish that off.
12-13-13, 10:44 AM
#39
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12-14-13, 04:15 PM
#43
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I think i have modified the oem pedal assembly enough to work! Pedal ratio is 6.5 ish (rounded). The lower attachment point has a nut welded to the back since you can actually get a bolt through, the bolt will be bolt from inside the car going out with a nut outside since you can't get the bolt passed the reservoir inlet. I need to prime and paint the assembly and then work on the firewall stuff.
12-14-13, 04:21 PM
#44
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Thread Starter
1. superior lighter, brakes
2. better lighter hubs
3. suspension design is much better, not to mention strong
4. steering is quicker, better feel, and replaceable. plus its easy to get power steering.
Its not direct bolt it, but its rather straight forward if you can weld and measure. There are few ways to do it. My way, which is the easiest, nets a 1" increase in wheelbase, which will require some trimming of the fender to clear the wheel. some other details with it. But after doing a few of these, the stock FB feels like "meh"
only downside is you need an 86 and newer 13b unless you want to make mounts.
12-19-13, 10:33 PM
#47
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i have a weber 48 ida now (change course) but i have gone BAC-less before. Basically, i just adjust the idle with the throttle screw. ran a little rougher but meh drove it like that for a long time. wasnt too bad
12-20-13, 02:03 AM
#50
The best setups I've driven were carbed and manual trans or EFI and auto trans. Any variation or any other combo isn't as good.
I'm still planning on setting up an FB (5 speed) with an S4 NA ECU. It's not for me though. I don't think I could stand the lack of an actual real accel pump for long. I don't need the slightly better gas mileage or care for the not having to touch the gas pedal at or before startup (hey I learned on carbs so tapping before cranking makes sense to me). If there is ever a problem, which on a 25 plus year old setup there will be, I can fix a carb. I can't say the same for EFI. Is it this wire or that? Is the connector making clean contact in there? Did water get in? Is this injector not firing or is it that one? Is it the TPS again? What's a TPS report and how do I fill one out? Like this? http://www.bankers-anonymous.com/wp-...eport-form.jpg
I'm still planning on setting up an FB (5 speed) with an S4 NA ECU. It's not for me though. I don't think I could stand the lack of an actual real accel pump for long. I don't need the slightly better gas mileage or care for the not having to touch the gas pedal at or before startup (hey I learned on carbs so tapping before cranking makes sense to me). If there is ever a problem, which on a 25 plus year old setup there will be, I can fix a carb. I can't say the same for EFI. Is it this wire or that? Is the connector making clean contact in there? Did water get in? Is this injector not firing or is it that one? Is it the TPS again? What's a TPS report and how do I fill one out? Like this? http://www.bankers-anonymous.com/wp-...eport-form.jpg