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Whizbang's GSLSE

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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 10:42 PM
  #26  
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some updates and pictures.

the car cranks now. had issues with a ground causing slow cranking which has been resolved. the engine ground was just poor. moved it and added a second one.

Waiting for some 1/8" BSPT plugs to get here to close off the unused oil pressure port so i can continue trying to start the car. Using a Racing Beat sandwich adapter currently.

Wire is a fiero fan and is wired up to a relay for use with either a switch, or once I get another temp switch for the radiator, it can also be on via thermo switch. Since its a 3/8-18 thread sensor, im hoping something else used that so i can find other temp options.

But yea. seat still needs mounted and all that crap. still have no exhaust on it and I need to get my hands on a different 13b header. I think i have an FC one on there now and it sits far too low for my liking.

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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #27  
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Nice progress. I'd like to install an S4 ECU in an 84-85 chassis as well. Looks like it just bolts onto the stock ECU bracket under the passenger carpet.

Two questions for you.

1) Did you keep a set of oil filled coils in the stock location for trailing just due to space restrictions? Looks like you kept the trailing ignitor and just hooked it up to the coils. FC plug wires are long enough. Then leading should be easy because the FC leading coil and ignitor base are smaller.

2) I think you meant to say 1/8" NPT, not BSP, right? The RB blue anodized oil pressure and temp adaptor is threaded for NPT fittings. Don't use BSP because it is smaller in diameter and slightly closer together threads.
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Nice progress. I'd like to install an S4 ECU in an 84-85 chassis as well. Looks like it just bolts onto the stock ECU bracket under the passenger carpet.

Two questions for you.
close, the N304 ecu case is the same. just need to unbolt the mounting bracket off the N304 ecu and attach it to the N326 or whatever ecu. Most of the trouble was making sure the right wires from the GSLSE harness were brought over (like the various power wires)

1) Did you keep a set of oil filled coils in the stock location for trailing just due to space restrictions? Looks like you kept the trailing ignitor and just hooked it up to the coils. FC plug wires are long enough. Then leading should be easy because the FC leading coil and ignitor base are smaller.
exactly. no where to put those cursed trailing coils. so i just hacked off the base for the trailing ignitor and wires it to two MSD coils located in the stock location. the Leading coil fit "well enough" using two holes in the front well well as shown.

2) I think you meant to say 1/8" NPT, not BSP, right? The RB blue anodized oil pressure and temp adapter is threaded for NPT fittings. Don't use BSP because it is smaller in diameter and slightly closer together threads.
i have the RB adapter which left me with the original oil pressure port om the engine. The s4 and earlier models use 1/8 BSPT, so i had those plugs to block that OE nonsense off.
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 12:48 PM
  #29  
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current update!

had issues starting it and keeping it from dying immediately and after doing just about every diagnostic on earth, turns out the plugs were just bad. Leadings were the wrong heat range and worn out, so i replace all four and she runs just peachy.

needs an exhaust now though. louder than **** open header.
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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Cool! And thanks for the info. I think I have the N304 ECU bracket to throw on the N326 ECU. Good luck making the BSP plug fit the RB adaptor.

The RB FC header should have an O2 bung down at the collector. Any desire to weld in another one up at the stock manifold location (at the upper bend on this road race header)? Or just extend the O2 wire down?


The FC collected header can be chopped, re-angled and used in an FB. However I prefer a long primary for an NA these days. I did a modded FC collected header in the rotary GLC but it just doesn't have the low end I'm looking for. Looking forward to a long primary in the spring.
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 03:33 PM
  #31  
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Jeff, the plug is for the engine itself, not the RB adapter.
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 07:52 PM
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Oh, ok. Then it should fit perfectly.
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 12:19 AM
  #33  
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Looks like an awesome build so far man, will be keeping tabs on this one!
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 12:33 PM
  #34  
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so the GSLSE header was a little better for clearance. just FYI.

also, things have gone a little different! pics to come, just waiting on a few bits to get it more complete.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #35  
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carb is jetted and whatnot.

40mm venturi
195 air and fuel jet
F4 emulsion tube

also for various reasons, going manual brakes. 3/4 front 7/8 rear

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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 07:14 PM
  #36  
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little more from today. starting to muck about with the brake pedal and whatnot for the wilwood masters too. Brake pedal is modified. Moved the attachment up some to get about a 6.5 pedal ratio versus the 4.77 factory. Need to do a little more welding and drilling to finish that off.

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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 12:23 AM
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Not that the 48ida isnt sexy as hell, but why did you not stay with the fuel injection?
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 01:47 AM
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EFI sucks.


Oh man I couldn't resist.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 10:44 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by cfamilyfix
Not that the 48ida isnt sexy as hell, but why did you not stay with the fuel injection?
mostly because the stock efi is a **** turd. couple that with already having the 48 IDA.
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Old Dec 13, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #40  
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any rx7s using this pedal assembly?

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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 03:12 PM
  #41  
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Why swap to an FC subframe? What are the advantages and how hard is it to do? Is it a simple bolt on?
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 03:18 PM
  #42  
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For show and tell lol
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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 04:15 PM
  #43  
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I think i have modified the oem pedal assembly enough to work! Pedal ratio is 6.5 ish (rounded). The lower attachment point has a nut welded to the back since you can actually get a bolt through, the bolt will be bolt from inside the car going out with a nut outside since you can't get the bolt passed the reservoir inlet. I need to prime and paint the assembly and then work on the firewall stuff.

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Old Dec 14, 2013 | 04:21 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by andernamen
Why swap to an FC subframe? What are the advantages and how hard is it to do? Is it a simple bolt on?
the reason to swap are myriad.

1. superior lighter, brakes
2. better lighter hubs
3. suspension design is much better, not to mention strong
4. steering is quicker, better feel, and replaceable. plus its easy to get power steering.

Its not direct bolt it, but its rather straight forward if you can weld and measure. There are few ways to do it. My way, which is the easiest, nets a 1" increase in wheelbase, which will require some trimming of the fender to clear the wheel. some other details with it. But after doing a few of these, the stock FB feels like "meh"


only downside is you need an 86 and newer 13b unless you want to make mounts.
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 07:35 PM
  #45  
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dual master brakes! assembling tomorrow

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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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How are you able to get away with not using the BAC? I noticed a blockoff plate in its place.
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 10:33 PM
  #47  
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i have a weber 48 ida now (change course) but i have gone BAC-less before. Basically, i just adjust the idle with the throttle screw. ran a little rougher but meh drove it like that for a long time. wasnt too bad
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 11:37 PM
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Ahh Im sorry to hear about the efi...I had planned on using this setup on another car
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 11:41 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
EFI sucks.


Oh man I couldn't resist.
Originally Posted by Whizbang
mostly because the stock efi is a **** turd. couple that with already having the 48 IDA.
aww man I'm sorry to hear this...I was looking fwd to running stock injection for a project I am working on
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 02:03 AM
  #50  
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The best setups I've driven were carbed and manual trans or EFI and auto trans. Any variation or any other combo isn't as good.

I'm still planning on setting up an FB (5 speed) with an S4 NA ECU. It's not for me though. I don't think I could stand the lack of an actual real accel pump for long. I don't need the slightly better gas mileage or care for the not having to touch the gas pedal at or before startup (hey I learned on carbs so tapping before cranking makes sense to me). If there is ever a problem, which on a 25 plus year old setup there will be, I can fix a carb. I can't say the same for EFI. Is it this wire or that? Is the connector making clean contact in there? Did water get in? Is this injector not firing or is it that one? Is it the TPS again? What's a TPS report and how do I fill one out? Like this? http://www.bankers-anonymous.com/wp-...eport-form.jpg
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