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my 85 gsl build

Old 12-10-16, 09:58 PM
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bump.. what ever happened to this...
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Old 12-11-16, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DWNUNDR View Post
bump.. what ever happened to this...
Dunno, but I advise anyone trying to replicate that lower link design to rethink it for a minute. That bolt will just break welds and slip in under compression...it needs to have a face built up, which is why "Tube Adapter Bungs" are designed the way they are. This is straight up dangerous... kinda stupid.
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Old 12-11-16, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SirLaughsALot View Post
Dunno, but I advise anyone trying to replicate that lower link design to rethink it for a minute. That bolt will just break welds and slip in under compression...it needs to have a face built up, which is why "Tube Adapter Bungs" are designed the way they are. This is straight up dangerous... kinda stupid.

i understand where your coming from with the weld in bung thing and it would have been a better option.
maybe i just got lucky on the 50 of so passes i made with a 400hp smallblock chevy under the hood.
or maybe that's the reason i didn't use tie tod ends instead left the original rubber on both ends of the arm for deflection.
but can you explain why it's stupid?
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Old 12-13-16, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by lilmazdarx7 View Post

the test arm cut in half


the machined bolt


pressed in the bolt ready for welding

So you pressed in a head of a bolt into a sleeve here...and welded them together.

These are lower links, yes? So under acceleration they are under compression. When this compresses beyond what those welds can hold, what happens? Things get worse under tension, no?

These weld bungs are designed to give you a lot more surface area to weld to, and stop the threaded section from "falling in" to the pipe.


Your design is also making it so you have to remove a side of the link to adjust length. If you instead had run a LHT/RHT on either side of the pipe, it would have allowed adjustment while on the alignment rack, to dial in thrust angle.

That would be like this:

LH Thread One of these on one side w/ LH Bung (pictured above) welded onto Pipe. Then RH Thread Bung on other end of Pipe with RH Thread One of these. This allows the bar to be fully mounted and adjustable, while also retaining your rubber compliance and remaining economical to build.


Total Cost to do BOTH ARMS this way:

(2) LH Bung = $15 (both)
(2) RH Bung = $15 (both)
(2) LH Rubber Endlink = $30 (both)
(2) RH Rubber Endlink = $30 (both)

So for $90 + welding time, you have a safe setup. For anyone not willing to spend that on suspension, I suggest you leave it stock and buy a set of LEDs for the interior or something... Suspension is not something to **** around with.

Last edited by RGHTBrainDesign; 12-13-16 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 12-17-16, 11:08 PM
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i come from the rock crawling world and as long as you keep your car on the street you shouldn't have a problem with the LCA's.
but if your going to take it out in the rocks you should beef it up a bit.
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Old 12-18-16, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ricsrx View Post
i come from the rock crawling world and as long as you keep your car on the street you shouldn't have a problem with the LCA's.
but if your going to take it out in the rocks you should beef it up a bit.
Rock Crawling is tough on components, but so is 1.0+g cornering loads and hard acceleration with a 400hp V8 on grippy tires over potholed roads.

Maybe you're forgetting how SHITTY the rear suspension geometry is with it's massive amount of anti-squat, like everything else OEMs loved to do in the last 50yrs. Your vertical axle movement is shocking the lower links instead of being transferred into the suspension like it should.

Also... I worked with these guys, and THESE guys.




CRB Fabrication, San Marcos, CA



Shaffer's Offroad, Alameda, CA
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