Former project back from the dead.
08-14-16, 05:16 PM
#27
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I bought a Haltech HP-4 igniter, took a gamble that it will be OK, couldn't find evidence of anyone on earth ever using one before. Planning on running it with 4 FD trailing coils. Also bought some electric fans off of ebay,
these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380287826296?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITwhich should fit my rad with minimal adaptation.
Harness is just about finished, RTMR almost completely wired, fuses purchased, relays purchased, closing in on a start attempt hopefully.
these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380287826296?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITwhich should fit my rad with minimal adaptation.
Harness is just about finished, RTMR almost completely wired, fuses purchased, relays purchased, closing in on a start attempt hopefully.
08-15-16, 02:12 AM
#28
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Finished wiring up the RTMR (Bussmann Fuse / Relay box). Next I need to visit the car and mock up how long to make all my sensor wires, the car is about 45 minutes away, so I don't get out there all that often. Also need to figure out where I'm going to mount my coils & HPI-4 box.
Also I need to mount ECU on my plate, I made a template for the Adaptronic mounting pattern but lost it somewhere in the mess.
Since I'm doing almost a complete wire tuck (aside from the engine harness), I think I may also run a hard line for the MAP vacuum line to the ECU since the Adaptronic uses a built-in MAP sensor. If not the whole way, at least through the firewall.
Also I need to mount ECU on my plate, I made a template for the Adaptronic mounting pattern but lost it somewhere in the mess.
Since I'm doing almost a complete wire tuck (aside from the engine harness), I think I may also run a hard line for the MAP vacuum line to the ECU since the Adaptronic uses a built-in MAP sensor. If not the whole way, at least through the firewall.
08-29-16, 01:17 PM
#29
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Laid out my freshly minted wire harness over the motor, but I still need to figure out where I'm going to mount the Haltech HP-4 and coils. Also pulled out the drivers side harness and started plucking the wires that I'm going to actually run. Will be tucking everything I can under the fenders, so for now I've got a bunch of spaghetti on the floor of the car.
The drivers side harness was disgusting, frayed and otherwise in poor condition. Will be bringing that back up to snuff with new ground wires and a fresh wrapping. Since the power wires will be running backwards to the new battery location and the headlight switch wires will be going to the RTMR, I think to get everything as clean as I want it to be I'm going to pull the dash. I didn't want to, but I think the end result will be a higher quality project.
The drivers side harness was disgusting, frayed and otherwise in poor condition. Will be bringing that back up to snuff with new ground wires and a fresh wrapping. Since the power wires will be running backwards to the new battery location and the headlight switch wires will be going to the RTMR, I think to get everything as clean as I want it to be I'm going to pull the dash. I didn't want to, but I think the end result will be a higher quality project.
09-08-16, 01:41 PM
#30
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Still working on the battery relocation
Progress is excruciatingly slow, I have about 2 hours a week to work on the car... it's a 30 minute drive from my house and I have a 5 month old baby so not making the progress that I'd like to. Still working on the battery relocation.
I drilled the spot welds for the SA bin brace out and sliced it in half.
Bought an American Racing battery mount and will sandwich it between the reversed slices of bin, make some adjustments with my cutoff wheel and then weld it back in.
I drilled the spot welds for the SA bin brace out and sliced it in half.
Bought an American Racing battery mount and will sandwich it between the reversed slices of bin, make some adjustments with my cutoff wheel and then weld it back in.
09-15-16, 01:01 PM
#31
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So slow
Spent my 2.5 hours this week mostly stripping sound deadening out of the driver side bin. Heat gun and metal scraper... and fumes.
horrible.
Remember, I have 2 layers.. I have the Butyl deadening that I added when I first worked on this car, and also the Asphalt deadening that came stock... Because what deadens sound better than one layer of material? TWO! Actually the road noise was very low in this car when I was driving it, and the doors close with a satisfying clunk. I just look at the quality of the work I did when I was 25 and shake my head. I basically did the whole car in 2 months, and it shows.
There's still residue left that will have to be cleaned before I weld in the battery box & brace, not sure how to go about cleaning that off, will probably heat and scrape as much as possible and then go in with a roll of shop towels and solvent.
Threw away my old rear hatch carpet as well, and am considering cutting out the spare wheel well and welding a flat plate in its place. Will allow more room for a custom rear suspension / fuel tank. This car is never going back to stock at this point.
horrible.
Remember, I have 2 layers.. I have the Butyl deadening that I added when I first worked on this car, and also the Asphalt deadening that came stock... Because what deadens sound better than one layer of material? TWO! Actually the road noise was very low in this car when I was driving it, and the doors close with a satisfying clunk. I just look at the quality of the work I did when I was 25 and shake my head. I basically did the whole car in 2 months, and it shows.
There's still residue left that will have to be cleaned before I weld in the battery box & brace, not sure how to go about cleaning that off, will probably heat and scrape as much as possible and then go in with a roll of shop towels and solvent.
Threw away my old rear hatch carpet as well, and am considering cutting out the spare wheel well and welding a flat plate in its place. Will allow more room for a custom rear suspension / fuel tank. This car is never going back to stock at this point.
10-20-16, 06:44 PM
#32
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Fuel rail for the TII lower intake manifold, AN-6
modified TII LIM to fit GSL-SE engine, FD UIM.
the AC Delete duct I've always wanted! Thanks to the parts forum for the suggestion. the part # is Mazda NA0161150A
My twin electric fans from ebay and the ebay aluminum rad, brackets fabbed and fans mounted.
modified TII LIM to fit GSL-SE engine, FD UIM.
the AC Delete duct I've always wanted! Thanks to the parts forum for the suggestion. the part # is Mazda NA0161150A
My twin electric fans from ebay and the ebay aluminum rad, brackets fabbed and fans mounted.
Last edited by rrluthi; 10-20-16 at 06:47 PM.
