ericks 1985 gsl turbo2 swap build, finally happening
Here are some pics when I was test fitting turbo parts to a core engine. You can kind of see the angles of the oil return line. https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...build-1072467/
Note the aluminum plate was slightly offset in the pics. I didn't notice until after the pictures were taken. Oh well.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...d-img_1334.jpg
Note the aluminum plate was slightly offset in the pics. I didn't notice until after the pictures were taken. Oh well.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...d-img_1334.jpg
On a slightly less serious note, I started noticing rodent turds in my car, and couldn't find the culprit,.
. Lately I started noticing a dead animal smell near and in my 7. The last few days it's been getting worse, so today I removed the interior and pulled the rugs up, and found a dead mouse inside the body under the passenger side storage bin.now I have to let it air out.
. Lately I started noticing a dead animal smell near and in my 7. The last few days it's been getting worse, so today I removed the interior and pulled the rugs up, and found a dead mouse inside the body under the passenger side storage bin.now I have to let it air out.
Today I got some more work done, I sprayed about 2 bottles of febreze in the car to get the dead mouse smell out
. Also I took the front bumper cover off and noticed that it was cracked, the good thing is I work at a body shop. I also took the front nose panel off to fit the oil cooler and intercooler, tomorrow I will be pulling the engine and transmission out. Also my fuel pressure gauge came today.
What diameter is that downpipe?
I wanted to run 2.5 all the way, but I'm having trouble finding a 2.5" downpipe. I've been told (Jeff) to use 3"s, but I'm obstinate.
That looks close to 3, but tapered down where it bolts to the rest of the exhaust.
I wanted to run 2.5 all the way, but I'm having trouble finding a 2.5" downpipe. I've been told (Jeff) to use 3"s, but I'm obstinate.

That looks close to 3, but tapered down where it bolts to the rest of the exhaust.
It's 3 inch , but at the bottom flange it's a little more than 2.5 inch
I decided to take a break from pulling the engine and transmission, and am tired of seeing all of the body dust all over my car and decided to play with the buffer.
Who says that you can't polish a turd.not bad for 30 year old paint
Who says that you can't polish a turd.not bad for 30 year old paint
Had a chance to finally work on the car, got the driveshaft, and transmission unbolted.while working under the hood, I noticed that the entire engine compartment is coated in what appears to be some kind of wax.I scraped it with my fingernail , and it feels like wax. Does anyone know what this is, or has anyone seen this before. This is my third fb, and the first one that I had with this on it.
I haven't had that on any of mine, but I've seen other ones that did. It's some kind of protective wax coating they sprayed on some back in the day. Not sure if it was some kind of dealer thing or what - it's pretty random
It's been brought up on here before and can be a real pain to remove. Guess it did it's job though, doesn't look like theres any rust there
It's been brought up on here before and can be a real pain to remove. Guess it did it's job though, doesn't look like theres any rust there
Thanks for the info sean
.finally got the engine and transmission out. Also removed the exhaust, and all of the heat shields underneath the carand sprayed everything down with degrees er and started to scrub every thing down. After scrubbing everything, I sprayed it with more degreaser, gonna let it sit overnight. Tomorrow I will rinse everything off.then all of the real work can begin.
Sanded the gas tank to clean it up and paint, I put down a coat of etch primer and found several pin holes, this one whole area is pitted pretty bad. Debating whether or not to patch it
Good luck with the fuel tank. A previous owner had a new one installed. I lucked out on that one. It was the ONLY half way decent thing done to it before I got it.
Looking forward to seeing more of your progress!
Looking forward to seeing more of your progress!
Notice the little white spots with the rust poking through, there was more than I thought
Here is a view from inside the tank, most of the rust and white residue is from when I cleaned it out with purple power
Patch tacked in
Patch fully welded, time to grind my welds and give it the por treatment. Sorry about the bubblegum welds, my tip is messed up
Grinder all of the welds , just to be safe, I wiped panel bond around the outside of the patch, tomorrow after the panel bond is dry, I can finally do the por 15 treatment
Northern tool sells a pretty cool 18 gallon Al fuel cell for a boat. I think its baffled (a boat tank should be). $300 I might end up taking that route with my turbo car.
The SA tank I have is pretty rough but not as bad as yours was.
The SA tank I have is pretty rough but not as bad as yours was.
I also started the shifter mod, I drilled the hole 30mm shorter, and I shortened the fluid tube and welded it back together. Tomorrow I'll finish it up
Yeah, sometimes you find the worst when you dig into things.
When you go to prep the tank for Kreem or POR15 use electrolysis to eat away at the rust in the tank. Its VERY difficult to remove a liner when it starts peeling off, and Acetone (a main ingredient in most fuel system cleaners) will eat the hell out of tank liners.
Fill the tank with salt water or baking soda water and charge the tank. Use some sacrificial metal (coat hangers) and put them in the tank through the fill port. The rust will be drawn to the sacrificial metal and away from the tank.
When you go to prep the tank for Kreem or POR15 use electrolysis to eat away at the rust in the tank. Its VERY difficult to remove a liner when it starts peeling off, and Acetone (a main ingredient in most fuel system cleaners) will eat the hell out of tank liners.
Fill the tank with salt water or baking soda water and charge the tank. Use some sacrificial metal (coat hangers) and put them in the tank through the fill port. The rust will be drawn to the sacrificial metal and away from the tank.
12 volts at 1.5 amps is all I've ever done; use a trickle charger. Takes a day or so. Depends on how much rust you have, but when its done the tank will be bare *** metal. Do run your etching acid through the tank and prep it normal like. The electrolysis will leave some kind of scum behind so its gotta be washed out after, and the prep chemicals will take care of it.
12 volts at 1.5 amps is all I've ever done; use a trickle charger. Takes a day or so. Depends on how much rust you have, but when its done the tank will be bare *** metal. Do run your etching acid through the tank and prep it normal like. The electrolysis will leave some kind of scum behind so its gotta be washed out after, and the prep chemicals will take care of it.





