damic

The problem with the warning lights isn't going away but I think I might find it quickly in the alternator regulator.

The problem with the left "parking" light is hopefully fixed: there is a factory crimp connection beneath the battery tray to split the parking light power to left and right, the right is the main cable coming from the cluster switch en the left is the crimped on. I soldered the connection put new tape around and tested it and it works, hopefully that's a final fix

Another thing I did was made a hole in the right radiator support and putted a 90° pipe thru it for some fresh air need to make it better tho, the pipe is now fixed with some tystraps

damic

Sorry no pictures: the old camera died and the new one is back to the manufacturer.

The problem with the left "parking" light is still there

Warning lights issue is fixed: instead of the transistor directly giving a negative to the cable, I put a 12VDC relay in between and now its fixed :party:

The car is back up on jack stands, why: I got my order from Rockauto in :party: new suspension parts, but now I'm on halt because I'm missing a piece.
I need a spacer between the nut of the strut and the shock itself. So I send a mail to KYB to hopefully find a solution.

Got a new thing to check out: steering has way to much play and when I turn the steering wheel from left to right or right to left it goes "tock" and maybe a new problem: the radiator fan is stuck in WUSH mode (always cooling)

GSLSEforme

Check your steering linkage:pitman arm,idler arm,inner & outer tie rods. Check steering box for proper adjustment & change lubricant in it 90wt hypoid oil. Moog makes an upgraded idler arm which noticeably changes steering for the better(for left hand drive cars)will see if i can find part #

GSLSEforme

Moog K9369

damic

Thanks but I got new bushing for the idler arm the oil need a change also.

GSLSEforme

Sounds like cooling fan clutch locked up

damic

Jup that's probably it. But hey if it's the first time in 36years it's ok by me

damic

Rear shocks, I think they where still fine, came back on the same rate as the new ones but hey I got them so I replaced them
The idler arm looked and feeled fine (no play) but replaced the bushings anyway. So the play is in the steering box. update: it wasn't in the steering box it was the steering wheel the central nut came loose and the wheel itself had a little play in it, no with al the changes it will steer just fine

The radiator fan: starter her up and the fan went in to woosh mode after a while it did go out woosh mode, engine was maybe to hot the last time?

GSLSEforme

Lucky find on that steering wheel nut,nothing like a loose nut behind the wheel! lol
Fan operation you describe on cold startup sounds somewhat normal,monitor operation when engine is at operating temperature.

damic

Time for some pictures.

So we start of with a hole in the side panel of the radiator and a pipe


Some parts also for the daily


Alternator warning light fixed (a small relais switches the lamps and stuff)


The SA has fluid only dampers, I forgot about that


The KYB kit didn't came with all the parts needed, this is a spacer with following measurements OD: 36mm ID:21mm thickness 16mm it sits under the cap


Same with the spring hat, it needed a spacer so it doesn't touch the bearing completely.

damic

Problem

It doesn't work

Partial solution


Other part of the solution, search for BGS-1301 on google not a solution read further
https://www.gereedschapland.nl/repos.../full/1301.jpg

GSLSEforme

Damic,you can install strut in car,put weight of car on suspension and tighten that nut with an impact gun with correct size socket on nut. The strut shaft will spin somewhat . Using blips of gun you can run nut down and impact it tight.

damic

Tried that doesn't work. If I just put some force on it it will spin < that spin but then with :'(

Went to some shops to ask price, got the price for a full set, I said no thanks just this paint cans. Price was +200€ for the set.

GSLSEforme

Is the nut you're installing have the same thread pitch as threaded portion of strut shaft? I ask this from reading in your post that struts didn't come with all the parts. Off/on trigger of impact gun is my preferred method of running down and tightening strut shaft nuts on many cars,including RX7. The start/stop of impact gun overcomes inertia of nut threads/strut shaft spinning and 3-4 burst of gun usually sufficient to accomplish tightening nut. I'm referring to air impact gun which has quick trigger response and higher rpm than electric impact models. Maybe you could take your assembled struts to an automotive shop which has these and they could zip the nuts tight for you for a couple bucks or for nothing. Or am i not understanding what difficulty you're having?

damic

Doesn't work in my case, the top hat is a bearing that is pressed in and has a folded over lip to keep the bearing in place. A bearing hole is round, the shaft is round, the lock nut is a self locking nut (the kind with a teflon ring in them) it will spin what ever you do. The installation paper even states USE NO IMPACT TOOLS when installing.

The old top hat hasn't have a bearing but another way of moving around so they made it that you could lock the top hat and use a impact tool.

But I can borrow a tool to lock it down


and wtf is wrong with this site again.

GSLSEforme

Damic,oe strut nut had a locwasher under it to keep it tight. Replacements provided with aftermarket struts employ either a pinched top thread or the type you have,a nylon collar to hold tight-this is universal in all replacement struts for all kind of cars. I have installed KYb struts in 1st gens and used an impact gun to zip down and tighten the nuts many times-this is accepted practice. There is no harm done to strut shaft or seal in doing this. The no impact warning is a disclaimer printed on install instructions for lots of branded shocks/struts. OEM upper strut mount had a bearing in it also,needed to let strut assly pivot when turning wheel,your replacement part would be identical. You're making this a little more complicated than needed,you could finish this part of job literally in seconds.
Hope this is taken in context intended,trying to be helpful...

damic

Today I got my tool, and I tried it and it's to small. The width of the holes are 5mm and the length is 8 or 9 mm next big buy is a mill, would take me a few minutes to make a damn tool

@GSLSEforme: I tried the impact wrench but doesn't work for me, I know you're trying to be helpful but if it doesn't work then I have to find a solution for it.

Edit: found the problem. The nuts where bolted down but the problem lies in the shaft
The problem was that the shaft was moving in the bearing, a few mm but the sound was horrible, tonk tonk tonk tonk if you went over bumps and in pits and so one.
The top side of the shaft is smaller (16mm) then the rest (20mm) so that the bearing would sit on the shaft. Problem is that the untapped space is to large and the nut couldn't lock it down properly.

Possible solution:
M16 washer - top hat w/ bearing - M16 washer - spring washer - nut

I hope this is the fix.

damic

On the alternator warning light is still not fixed sometimes it comes up and after a while it goes out.

I'm thinking that the neutral is not high enough when the Voltage out put is 14V.

damic

So the noises in the rear are getting worse. So jack her up on stands then see where the most noise is coming from, first the drive shaft, no play so then the wheels: left ok right wtf noise so you know the drill:
* wheel off
* disconnect brake line
* brake caliper off
* disc off
* losen the 3 bolts and pull the axle

Spin the bearing on the axle, no sound great diff is gone ???

woodmv

iTrader: (8)

Maybe the spider gear on that side? But if so, maybe more than that? It's worth a look beneath the diff cover.

GSLSEforme

Hey damic,admit i haven't read back thru your thread regarding noise from the rear of car...often an axle bearing won't make any noise spinning it on the axle,it needs the weight of the car on it to load it. This is hard to duplicate out of the car,even running car in gear,up on jack stands is hard to pinpoint if at all a possible bad axle bearing.
Suggestion: if you're keeping car indefinitely,replace both axle bearings. These are known to fail earlier in life of car than bearings in rear differential(as long as diff hasn't been run for a period low on lubricant from a leaking pinion seal). Suggest also draining diff fluid,one to keep it from seeping out of axle tube while axles are out and second to examine oil drained from it for any amounts of metal(swish a magnetic pick up tool around in drained oil) debris,which could be a sign of worn bearings...no metal found is a good sign,replace axle bearings AND seals,refill diff with limited slip additive if LSD(suppose it is since you make mention of caliper) and roadtest for noise. You may be pleasantly surprised noise(s) are gone. Even if noise remains(differential?)renewing the axle bearings is not wasted time & money.

damic

Bearings and seals are replaced including the oil, the diff is making noise even if there is no load on it so the diff was good because it comes form the original rear axle (drums). I just placed that diff on this axle (disks), didn't take ring/pinion out so wtf ???

Btw there is no lube coming out of the axle, but there is coming out of the fill nipple.

GSLSEforme

Have you run the car in gear on stands and used a stethoscope or a screwdriver placed on diff housing,end of axle tube and tried to determine the exact location of noise? That would go a long way in pointing you in a direction to proceed. If the center section was known good in a different axle housing,should be same in its new home. Since you have the axle out,what do drive splines look like? How long,miles has it been since all work was done,any hard launches? What does noise sound like. Lube dripping from fill plug area when plug removed sort of a non issue. Draining the diff fluid and examining it may help you determine if bearings are starting to hatch themselves. Poke a magnet around in housing thru drain hole and see if you bring out any debris,shrapnel,gear tooth,etc. This only costs you time and new fluid fill... I have had axle bearings get noisy a short time after install but they weren't best quality,it happens.

damic

Removed the diff.

But first some pictures :Y


Since a few rides the exhaust started popping harder and harder, can you spot the failure

No? Let me give you a close up


Luckily I got some new clamps laying around for a straight pipe


Wait can you view the difference, yes they don't fit, flanges are thinner

Anyway diff removal
Draining the oil on a rag with a magnet behind


The diff:


Edit: I got the diff that came original with the FB rear axle, moved it to the hangar and then did a simple test, move the pinion gear left and right and I noticed something, the FB-diff has some play in it when I go from left to right or visa versa. The SA-diff doesn't have it and is rely tight :headscratch: I checked the book and it needs to have some play. If my memory is correct I loosen and tighten the pinion bolt that's probably my problem

damic

Put the FB diff in and now it can dry. Also the axles are back in, LSD would be tripping currently there's a green Kia Picanto behind the RX7 with a broken exhaust sound nifty