the boredom build (if your a 56k caveman.... this will crash your comp.)
04-16-10, 07:36 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: whitesboro, NY
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well.... i almost have the gauges done except i have to wait on the adapter fittings for the senders.... it is incredibly hard to find a 1/8 npt to 10mm x 1.00 for the water temp sender BUT I DID IT!!!!!!!!
i'll have pics up tomorrow at some point
i'll have pics up tomorrow at some point
04-17-10, 04:30 PM
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: whitesboro, NY
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok so i got the cracks in the radio surround repaired and repainted it.... covered the slot for the heater controls due to not having them anymore.... rewired and installed the radio and gauges.... thats bout it..... it still looks really bad, but not as bad as it originally did..... just waiting till after i get the more important stuff done before i sweat the smaller interior parts and what not.....STILL WAITING FOR MY PRESILENCER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
05-25-10, 02:47 PM
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: whitesboro, NY
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i haven't updated this in a few weeks.... my funding is getting cut off until i can find some more work... so basically i have been trying to do whatever i can here and there that costs zero dollars.... finally got my RB presilencer installed...... in preparation for the big brake conversion i went ahead and installed my fc brake MC (doesn't look new, but it is) and the PV..... and because that was too easy i decided to go ahead and pull out the dash and pedal assembly to drill out some new holes, and readjust the pedal ratio for some depowered brake action!!!!! thats about it for now.... i'm in the process now of a wire tuck in the engine bay.....
if anyone knows ahat these relays are for please let me know... the FSM says they are main relay's.... but that doesn't let me know if i can hack them off or not
if anyone knows ahat these relays are for please let me know... the FSM says they are main relay's.... but that doesn't let me know if i can hack them off or not
05-27-10, 11:00 PM
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: whitesboro, NY
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok well...... I may have just killed ol' betsy...... i got bored today and decided to do a little rewire on the car and figure out how to tuck it all out of the way.... the little rewire has now turned into to gutting the harnesses (ALL OF THEM!!!!) pulling the fenders off, installing a power cut-off, push button start, and wiring the alternator directly into the battery with the cut-off so when you shut the car down if ever the need (while the car is running) you can truly cut all power to the car instantly.... i don't know how true this is but....... sounds good to me!!!
i'll have pic's tomorrow of the work thus far.....
if anyone drops a little prayer to mr. felix heinrich wankel this week..... please mention my car..... it's gonna need a prayer to come out of this alive........................
i'll have pic's tomorrow of the work thus far.....
if anyone drops a little prayer to mr. felix heinrich wankel this week..... please mention my car..... it's gonna need a prayer to come out of this alive........................
05-28-10, 10:53 AM
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: whitesboro, NY
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well got the dash done this morning, got all of the unneeded wiring out... i sacrificed my reverse lights to eliminate a plug 
...... i have most of the wiring tapped back up, but i left some of it undone so i can place the plugs in good spots before i tape all that as well..... i have decided to put the fuse block from the engine bay in the glove box, so i have to lengthen all those wires to reach it..... keeping my fingers crossed that everything still works when i put it back together!!!!!!!!
...... i have most of the wiring tapped back up, but i left some of it undone so i can place the plugs in good spots before i tape all that as well..... i have decided to put the fuse block from the engine bay in the glove box, so i have to lengthen all those wires to reach it..... keeping my fingers crossed that everything still works when i put it back together!!!!!!!!
05-28-10, 03:30 PM
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: whitesboro, NY
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nope... no booster ever again!!!!!!!!
when i pulled the booster i changed the pedal ratio so the pedal is easy to depress still... almost feels like the booster was still there
when i pulled the booster i changed the pedal ratio so the pedal is easy to depress still... almost feels like the booster was still there
06-01-10, 06:14 PM
#45
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: whitesboro, NY
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
haven't done a lot to the car because the weather has just been too nice to pass up... i did work on it today for an hour or so and got some stuff mounted up.... fuse block is in the glove box now, and the coils are mounted to the strut tower.... still have to run wires for the coils and alternator.... put in the battery isolator and run switches for the fuel, fan, and ignition.
06-02-10, 08:53 PM
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: whitesboro, NY
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1. measure from the pivot point of the pedal to the bottom of the pedal (this will be measurement A)
2. measure from the pivot point to the rod that pushes into the MC (this will be measurement B)
3. divide A and B to get the pedal ratio (A/B= pedal ratio)
4. change the value of B until you get a pedal ratio of about 6:1 and there you go (doesnt have to be exactly 6:1 just close) measure your new value out on the pedal (from the pivot point) and drill your hole
before you even get to this point you need to remove the pedal of course which can be involved... i had the dash out already so it wasn't bad for me.... you will also have to drill some new holes for the MC to bolt to the firewall, and you will have to bend the brake lines (carefully.... i did it by hand so it isn't to hard).... the hardest part is making a new rod that will push into the MC.... i actually just ripped apart my brake booster and used the rod that was originally mounted to the pedal.... but this takes cutting, grinding, and some brain power....
hopefully that will give you some insight as to how it goes... or how i did it anyway... may not be right, but it works perfectly for me