DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

It was a bone stock 12a Nikki carb'ed Rotary that was practically all original. I'm sure with a Racing Beat intake and aftermarket carb and some more work it would have been a much more fun car. Would have needed an exhaust to compliment the intake as well.

Thanks man, it is a lot of work but the car is a blast to own and drive when it's all done. This engine may be taken apart sooner than you think, we will have to see

Will be going with a eBay FMIC for now. A 12 piece steel collection, clamps, and silicone connectors with a decently large FMIC. It's a cheaper kit and will only be used a while as it comes. I plan on using different silicone adapters that are actually reinforced later in the build and upgrading it all.

Thanks for liking the video! I did it just for people like you who weren't quite sold on going forward with the swap.

Also thanks for reminding me about the writeup, I'll be working on that tonight if I can get the time.

Thanks! Don't worry, my license is staying in my wallet and I won't be losing it anytime soon. I don't drive like that all the time, only when necessary

Ms. DIY

HAH! I AM such a girl! I HAD a '69 Camaro with the 250 and a 3 speed in the '80's. I have to say it was disappointing.
I think when I get my 12A right, I'll be quite satisfied... She's to be my daily driver. Just think, 20-30 years from now when I can't see far enough to get my driver's license any more, Someone will be thrilled to get a stock vehicle to do their mods from scratch... With whatever technology is available then!
I have to say, Your upgrade looks like a ball! You've made a huge gain! I'm impressed. But, I'll just get my 12A "right" and be content. I'm certain you've been MORE than an inspiration to others! You've probably provoked a few.

Congrats!

82transam

iTrader: (18)

12a's can definitely be fun, no doubt about that. Once you have 200+ ponies and boost though it's hard to go back lol.

Austin - this thread did turn out really well - you're better at documenting what you're doing than i am apparently lol. I'm impressed that you followed through on my advice etc and also impressed that you got this thing done so damn quickly

Shrimp

I dunno. I have an 09' GT w/ suspension work (dropped ~2" rear 3-link swapped to all rod-ends including panhard, camber plates, strut braces, 1"+ wider rims and tires to match), intake, and tune. I am probably around 290-300 rwhp (probably being a little generous here). I personally find my 85' 12a more fun to drive. Granted it doesn't have the power but it's so damn light and maneuverable it feels faster.

I do love the feel of boost though. My dad has a 98' 300ZXTT that's bone stock w/ the HICAS system and it's an absolute joy to drive. We are planning a build with it soon to turn it into a road race car. I am hoping to grab the old turbos off it and use one on the 12a.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Yah thats the thing about the super lightweight - you dont really need that power for acceleration if you have nimbleness and top speed -which these cars have both.

Well unto a point. They handle great until they dont

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Didn't mean any disrespect! Just that's the closest car I could think of. I know of someone, not saying it's me, that has a V6 Mustang that is an auto and that's what the 12a reminded me of. Under powered for the car but just fun enough to make it worth while driving.

I daily drove my 12a for quite a while actually, over two years there were some longer stints where I got in it and took it on long drives and short daily drives. It was very fun and I enjoyed it being all original but it's so much...more...now

Thanks! The swap isn't for everyone but for those of us who desire the extra oomph it gives it is definitely worth every minute, cent, and worry it brings along and I only hope I can help others on their way to accomplishing a similar swap

Oh so so true. And getting in the daily and driving that feels like I'm in a tank trying to get up to 60mph..well a tank is probably faster. Yeah, don't think I can ever go back to a 12a without plans to swap it out for something else

Thanks Sean! It means a lot, you know that. I couldn't have done this swap this quickly or efficiently without your help and someday I'm going to have to get you to drive it. It's funny, because most of the documentation, pictures, times and details is mostly for my own benefit! I am terrible at writing things down for myself and I have grown accustomed to this almost being a running log of sorts. I will eventually look back on this all and think, "Wow, I did that at 19...what can I do now??" and it'll all come together. Thanks again bud, I appreciate all the help and advice and will continue to as the car gets farther...

I'm assuming by the GT designation you'd be referring to a Mustang with the V8.
In that case I can heartily agree with you that a 7 would be much more fun to drive even under 12a power. That person I eluded to earlier with the Mustang may be me and I couldn't barely stand to drive that thing after getting used to the 7. There's just something about how these cars drive that cannot be matched...

The 300ZXTT is truly a pretty car and looks like a blast, I'd love to drive one someday.

At 2360lbs even a 90hp 12a was fun, now at 200+hp it's almost scary and I'd like to eventually see 350+hp in the car

Yeah, I'm not going to be pushing this thing too hard on stock 13's and open rear end with no rear sway bar as it is now. Once LSD, 5 lug, larger tires maybe I'll try some more fun things out

Updates as of Late:
FMIC, Optima Red Top, Optima battery box, relocation to storage bin, and some other parts will be ordered tomorrow and will be installed as soon as I get them all in so that I can close the hood.

Pure Evil Genius
I've now put a few hundred miles on the car and have loved them all. Just within the last few days however I've had some dastardly evil thoughts cross my mind...

We set record lows here in MN for July, like highs of 60's and lows towards 50's and with 6 month winters (winter described as having snow on the ground, could be extended to 7 or 8 months with temperatures reaching freezing at night) you're always thinking about getting ready for winter...winter......winter storage!

I have some huge plans and updates that will be revealed within the next week or so after figuring out some final details on this school year. Just be assured that they are going to alter this car for the better, faster and stronger

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Shrimp - I agree, a 12a would be more fun than a Mustang, but that's because Rx7 > all other cars lol :P

Yeah man, glad I could help you with the swap. One of these days I'd like to make a "how-to" thread about it. Currently most of the swap info is hidden within build threads like ours. Would be nice to have a how-to like I see a lot of on the Subaru forums I'm on. Oh well, maybe someday.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Someday we'll get around to it

Updates as of Yet

This week marks the two year anniversary of the car and myself. I went to my fiance's grandpa's house for his birthday (he's the one who bought the car and sold it to me) and thought I'd take a few pics.

1st Pics I Ever Received Of The Car






As She Sits




Hanging out with some buddies, mainly working on the Monster Audi




FMIC piping kit with everything necessary for installation


From turbo to TB
2.0" to 2.5" 90deg silicone elbow
2.0" t-bolt clamp for turbo
2.5" BOV adapter kit with BOV
2.5" 12 piece piping kit with 18x12x3" outside (12x11x3" core) FMIC and silicone adapters and clamps
3.25" to 2.5" silicone reducers for piping to FMIC inlet and outlet
2.5" ~2ft extra pipe
GReddy throttle body adapter

AAAAAAAAANNDD the bombshell.

I was adjusting the TPS on the car since it felt a little off. Sure enough it was at 0.7v at idle and I adjusted it up to 1.0v. While driving it would cut out at about 3,500RPM while starting to make boost. I was testing this and found that it kept doing it so I adjusted it a little more and tried again.

I boosted it and let it go back to idle and it died. Like completely died. While cranking there's no oil pressure, even while cranking with the low oil pressure problem. Car won't even fire anymore. Seriously scared I wrecked an apex seal and will need to move the rebuild date up much much sooner than expected.

You don't want to run too rich or lean, but I don't think adjusting the TPS to the correct voltage would have done that. Of course, I don't know what happened just hoping that wasn't it. I adjusted that other screw that's on the driver's side closest to the throttle body (not the one with the 8mm nut securing it) before it happened but I wouldn't think that would have done it either. I didn't check AFR's after the adjustment so that worries me. Will be testing compression first thing when I have time.

Headed down to a Dr. appointment tomorrow for a long needed surgery consultation and will try to make enough time to come home and test compression to make sure it's still good. If it's not I'm not sure what will happen with the car right now. Returning to college after the summer off really messes with your brain.

Keen12A

The fact that it isn't firing makes me think its not an apex seal. My buddy blew 2 seals in his S4 and it still started. If the compression is good perhaps the ECU?
Whatever it is hopefully you get her diagnosed and back on the road quickly.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

I'm thinking more and more that it's a blown fuse of some sort. I completely agree with it still starting if a seal was bad, I've seen multiple videos of rotaries still starting with bad seals and running on one rotor. I'll double check compression just to make sure it's still good but I'm pretty sure it is.

I have a super terrible schedule here for the next week or two but hopefully I can make time to get it running and driving again. FMIC stuff should all be here and I'll start installing that no matter what here real soon

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Well went out and checked on the car for less than 5min last night. Found out that this fuse was blown:



So I replaced the fuse with a spare 60a fuse I had around (couldn't find a 30a) and tried cranking the engine over.

The car sputtered and fired, to which I got quite happy about. Then I noticed smoke coming from the wiring harness on my side of the car. I quickly ran and unhooked the battery and that's how the car sits right now.

I'll have to go over and through each wire to figure out if there's another fuse blown that's causing the melting wires. It's the same wire coming from that fuse to the Main Relay that was melted and I'll be double checking each and every fuse in the car as well as the grounds. Hopefully I don't need an ECU or anything.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

I'm sure you'll figure it out fairly easily. Still, it's stories like this that quickly dampen my occasional bouts of turbo envy. Keep at it!

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

So you're saying there used to be a melted wire before the swap-in?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Glad the engine is ok, Same question as Iotus, was the wire already damaged previously? Makes me wonder if the main relay is bad, or has a loose connection internally that's shorting out...

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Haha I don't blame ya! Thanks for the good wishes, I appreciate it. It's completely worth it in the end though, if you've never ridden in one and get the chance take a ride in one and you'll see what I mean

I never noticed a melted wire before the swap, no. I wrote that when I was really tired and I see how ya got that out of it.

Essentially:
I boosted the engine and it died when trying to idle afterwards.
I tried cranking it for maybe 3 or 4 minutes total right after it happened thinking I just killed it with an ill-adjusted idle.
I saw some smoke but thought it was just from some water I spilled on the engine when filling the cooling system.
Pushed the car and left it for a few days.
Came back and saw the EGI Comp fuse was blown and replaced it.
Again, while cranking the smoke appeared from the wiring.
I unattached the battery just to be safe and have left it again.
While feeling the wire I can feel that it is melting going to the Main Relay from the fuse box EGI Comp fuse.

I'll go through the whole wiring system tomorrow hopefully.

I never noticed any melted wires upon installation. I'm going to check out the main relay with a ohmmeter as soon as I can.

I have tomorrow morning off and it's pretty much my only day in the last 2 weeks and for another week. Wednesday I'm technically off but I'll be doing other things besides car work.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

My wiring issue:
I tested it today and it is the W/L (White/Blue) wire that goes from the 2nd gen fuse box labeled "EGI Comp" to the W/L wire in the large plug of the main relay. I tried cranking it and it melted the insulation for the length of the wire a second time. It's only that one that's out too and I already have sent money for one from a member with a good iTrader score so hopefully that can get here at the beginning of next week so I can install and test it. By then I hope to have the FMIC mounted and ready to go as well as some other things I'd like to see done in the car before too long.

New windshield installed! Now I don't have to look through a huge crack anymore and can actually enjoy the drive


Hole through radiator support for FMIC piping - made it about 3.25in just for future needs up to 3" pipe and I'll be lining the hole with a hose cut in half so it doesn't scratch or cut into the silicone adapter that will be there


Top view of TB side of the piping - only way I could get it to clear the brake lines that made any sense. Luckily I got the kit with 12 pieces in it so I have all sorts of bends and interesting ways to run the piping


Pic of the TB adapter and its piping


Will try to make some more progress here over the next few hours before work - we will see!

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

So it was the main relay that was fried?

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Honestly I'm really not sure right now. When I crank the engine it melts that wire so I am assuming it's the Main Relay. That wire just goes straight from the 2nd gen fuse box (all the wires in the box are 12v+ hot, no duh) and none of the other wires are having an issue so I think it is the Main Relay. Will find out on Monday, have one on the way!

Some progress on the FMIC and finishing wiring tonight, pretty happy with its direction so far!

Wrapped up the wires near the firewall and cleaned them up tremendously so they actually look presentable now


Took out battery tray and cleaned up the wiring on that side a bit


TB side without battery tray and cleaned up wiring


How the engine bay looked after I couldn't take the mosquitos anymore

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Accidentally posted here. Woops.

Well, personal update just because then!
I'm going back to the University of Minnesota - Twin Cities campus here starting the day after Labor Day. I'll be living with family closer to the campus with the garage that I have stored my car in the last two winters. It's very small and cramped but if I play my cards right I can use it enough to swap out to an FC subframe and do a full 5 lug swap. This will be among other things but I won't disclose them until later when more things are decided. I also have to have a surgery over winter break so I wouldn't be able to use the almost month long break to get car stuff done but that's whatever.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Got the FMIC and piping all finalized tonight!

Will be making brackets out of flat steel tomorrow morning probably and getting it all finished up. This is what it will look like though, pretty happy with it.







Also reunited my hood with my car, such a glorious reunion



Can't wait to get it running again!

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Where did the battery end up?

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Will be going in the storage bin. I have that huge Interstate still (which I know is not a sealable battery) but will be getting an Optima soon. I just need to run the wires and it should be ready to start either today or Wednesday at the latest.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Yeah buddy

You're gonna flip when you feel the extra power that intercooler adds, and reduction in turbo lag from that blow off valve!

HUGE diff!

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

While I can see the intercooler improving power by reducing air temp, how do u think the blow off valve will reduce turbo lag? The only purpose of the BOV is to release intake pressure when u lift off the gas....it does nothing to help pressurize the intake.

notveryhappyjack

iTrader: (4)

Austin, does it keep poppin the same fuse? or is it random intermittent 80s wiring?
must be grounding out somewhere and should not be too difficult to trace if you follow the wires out of the fuse box.

What air filter is that? specs on the sizing too? I need to replace mine soon