4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11388048)
One thing that I don't think is mentioned often about the FC in tank mod is that the S4 pump hanger is preferable since it's the correct height. S5's have larger tanks and the pump hanger is a bit too tall. It can be made to work without much hassle, but the S4 is easier if you can find one.
The mounting ring and baffle can be cut out of any FC tank, that is all the same.
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11388973)
Que??
Sportage 4x4's use a compatable diff? IMSA 3-piece spoiler for cheap that I'll be fixing up and repainting :egrin: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1362109458 He's also my Lab assistant :lol: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1362109458 Other parts that I got in the deal (Oil cooler, two Nikki carbs, intake, rat's nest, air cleaner box) https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1362109458 Some cheap used Tokico shocks that I paid only $1 more than I paid for shipping (and I only paid $20 for shipping!) :icon_tup::icon_tup: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1362109458 |
Yeah, good thing the search function nazi's didn't catch that one... I did a quick search and found my answer shortly afterwards.
Of course my luck would be at one of my local yards there is a 2001 4WD sportage and a '99 2WD sportage. I think I'm gonna post a WTB in my local CL for one. : "I'll come and convert your 4WD to 2WD for FREE!!! BETTER FUEL MILLAGE. And I'll change your car into 2WD at your home or office no hassle" LOL I see this car is gonna Free willy. |
Good score on the parts Austin. Gotta love the 3 piece spoiler :)
|
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11391371)
Yeah, good thing the search function nazi's didn't catch that one... I did a quick search and found my answer shortly afterwards.
Of course my luck would be at one of my local yards there is a 2001 4WD sportage and a '99 2WD sportage. I think I'm gonna post a WTB in my local CL for one. : "I'll come and convert your 4WD to 2WD for FREE!!! BETTER FUEL MILLAGE. And I'll change your car into 2WD at your home or office no hassle" LOL I see this car is gonna Free willy. And no "free Willy-ing" with a turbo in front driving the wheels! The pic of a garbage bag is a full GSL rear axle that I'm rebuilding to hold up to the TII engine |
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11391544)
Good score on the parts Austin. Gotta love the 3 piece spoiler :)
1,000th Post!! Yeehaw, been waiting on that one for a while! |
Go get'em Austin:nod:
|
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by scottj8666
(Post 11401407)
Go get'em Austin:nod:
Well, updates will continue tomorrow but as of tonight I'll list what has gone on over the last week and a half. 03/07 Bought Racing Beat 2.5in downpipe and presilencer on the forum Bought an Auto Meter Ultra Lite boost gauge from the forum Bought an early 13b oil pan on the forum 03/08 Ordered almost 30 different gaskets and such parts from Atkins Rotary Got tabs for the 7 since they're due in March and I want to drive it as soon as she's completed Bought an S4 TII fuel pump sending unit from the forum to mount in my tank 03/09 Bought the 2 ton shop crane and 1 ton engine stand from Harbor Freight. Very cool transaction, I asked for the 1 ton crane but they didn't have it so the cashier said that they had the 2 ton. I said I'd get that one even though it was $50 more than the smaller one. 15 minutes later after dealing with some nit wit employees she billed me out. I kept doing the math and I thought it would have totaled to more. Looked at the receipt and she gave me the 2 ton for the promotional price of the 1 ton - like $90 the original price of $269.99, shweet!! 03/11 Went and bought an S4 turbo from the guy I bought the whole TII car from tonight. Will port the wastegate myself and possibly rebuild the whole thing but I'm undecided yet. Attachment 679423 Tomorrow I'll be building up the shop crane and engine stand, then getting ready for the engine pull. Will get the wiring pictures taken and marked off, take trans out, things like that first. Goal is to have the engine out by Thursday and mostly disassembled for the Atkins order to arrive sometime that day. Then I can rebuild it up and get it ready for install. Should be getting many boxes of parts and goodies this week and can't wait to get this thing in and running :egrin: |
Glad you're making some progress. :)
|
7 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11402505)
Glad you're making some progress. :)
Boxes of new tools 2 ton foldable shop crane and 1,000lb engine stand Attachment 679310 1st rotary engine on the new tools (parts 12a) Attachment 679311 Got the early 13b oil pan in the mail today thanks to rotopower74 Attachment 679312 Attachment 679313 Also got an S4 TII fuel pump sending unit for a spare that I'll be rewiring for use with the Walbro 255 when I want to upgrade from the stock one I'll use first. Attachment 679314 12a stock engine mount that I'll be modifying Attachment 679315 Measurement of how much material is on the stock mount. The holes have to be 20mm further back (so ~1.62mm left of space) so I'll be welding a plate to the back for support Attachment 679316 So today I got a lot done including: Building up my tools for the engine swap Pulled the oil pan off my parts 12a and took out the oil pickup tube Got the spare S4 TII fuel pump sending unit Got the early 13b oil pan for the swap Cleaned the parts for the swap and they are drying currently My plan is as follows:
Originally Posted by lindahlish
I'm definitely doing the "stages" right now. From the advice of the woman and you, it will be easier on the budget and my mind.
Stage 1 Just got the -SE oil pan in the mail today so now I have an -SE front cover, -SE oil pan, and will be modding my extra engine mount brace to fit the 13b in the 12a's spot. Will keep the stock wiring harness, turbo, ECU, all emissions except cold start assist, and just get it in and running well enough to drive all summer. Stage 2 Next fall I'll upgrade the turbo if at all possible, and do the 5 lug conversion if it's in the budget and I have the space and parts available. Will redo the exhaust probably, wideband, upgraded ECU to either Rtek 2.1, Adaptronic entry level (because Turblown is only 30 minutes away and will cut me a deal) or Haltech E6k. |
Hey, looks good so far, also all the information you're putting on here is making my life a lot easier, so thanks for that.
What are you planning to do cooling system wise? |
7 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Keen12A
(Post 11404216)
Hey, looks good so far, also all the information you're putting on here is making my life a lot easier, so thanks for that.
Originally Posted by Keen12A
(Post 11404216)
What are you planning to do cooling system wise?
Alright, pictures are louder than words: Attachment 679113 Attachment 679114 Attachment 679115 Attachment 679116 Attachment 679117 Attachment 679118 Attachment 679119 Well, I finally made headway towards getting this swap accomplished. List for the day: Got the car running and drove it to the most plausible place in the yard to pull the engine and trans out Started with the trans and finally got that out Got the engine out just in time to leave for a work meeting and found some goodies SR Motorsports Flywheel - $549 on SALE! Exedy clutch will depend on if it is a stock replacement, or stage 1 or 2 - we will see tomorrow! Both look like they have barely been used though, super stoked about that! Tomorrow I'll be tearing the engine down to just the keg for inspection of any porting that could have been done, and maybe swapping out for another that spare turbo but I think I'll just leave the one on there. Should be getting the big box of parts from Atkins tomorrow so I can rebuild it for install in the FB. Very productive day and looking forward to what comes next :egrin: |
UGH... I hate pulling engines on dirt... cherry pickers don't move for shit on dirt. And you scraped snow off to work on it. wow
|
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11405635)
UGH... I hate pulling engines on dirt... cherry pickers don't move for shit on dirt. And you scraped snow off to work on it. wow
|
Looks like you made some good progress there. Yeah cherry pickers and dirt kinda suck, I usually find it easier to just roll the car backwards and leave the crane stationary...
The FB radiator (as long as it's the tall 83-85 one) will cool a FC engine just fine, you might want to consider something more powerful than a 650 cfm fan though.. |
9 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11405892)
Looks like you made some good progress there. Yeah cherry pickers and dirt kinda suck, I usually find it easier to just roll the car backwards and leave the crane stationary...
The FB radiator (as long as it's the tall 83-85 one) will cool a FC engine just fine, you might want to consider something more powerful than a 650 cfm fan though.. Woops, silly brain. 1800 CFM is the correct measurement of the throughput of the fan. Wow, 650 would be like a house fan :lol: Started off looking at this today: Attachment 679015 Tore it down to this: Attachment 679016 Sludge in the blocked coolant passage to the intake manifold: Attachment 679017 Figured out how to mod this spot to accept the turbo oil drain, thanks to 82transam - lifesaver! Attachment 679018 Got my Atkins order today as well so I could reinstall some parts with new gaskets: Attachment 679019 Went out and spent hours searching around for nuts, bolts, O-Rings, hose to redo some of the lines, and some other necessities: Attachment 679020 Then I couldn't finish off the night without having this happen: Attachment 679021 Attachment 679022 Attachment 679023 So the lower intake manifold is now installed with a new gasket and new coolant o-rings and one new bolt. I'll be going to get a slightly longer bolt tomorrow since this one isn't as long as it should be. I was in a hurry since I only had 10 minutes to find it. Won't have time to work on the engine for a while but next on the list is: Correct bolt for intake mani Get my 1/8NPT oil filter sandwich gauge adapter installed Drill and tap the -SE front cover for the turbo oil drain install Grind the -SE front cover to fit with the TII water pump Get -SE oil pan installed Port S4 turbo wastegate to a safe size to prevent boost creep Inspect and install turbo with coolant lines and oil lines Looking forward to a few days off but I've enjoyed the time working on the car. If life gives you turbo'ed rotaries...:nod: |
Making good progress, you want to grind the water pump housing and water pump to clear the SE front cover - you've got it the other way around ;)
|
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11407055)
Making good progress, you want to grind the water pump housing and water pump to clear the SE front cover - you've got it the other way around ;)
Out to work on the engine some more :egrin: |
Awesome thread!
Good luck! |
9 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Jager
(Post 11408478)
Awesome thread!
Good luck! What I've got done over the past few days: Attachment 678677 Attachment 678678 Attachment 678679 Attachment 678680 Attachment 678681 Attachment 678682 Attachment 678683 Attachment 678684 Attachment 678685 |
Progress is being made on the swap now. Hoping to finish up my turbo oil drain tonight, as well as finishing my S4 turbo porting job.
List is: Finish turbo oil drain Finish porting job on wastegate Mod 12a engine brace 20mm rearward Finish up modding the gas tank for S4 TII pump install Mount engine and transmission in car Rewire the ECU and harness Fuel lines figured out First startup Get on trailer and bring to drivetrain shop for custom driveshaft Enjoy :) Goal is to be safely driving the car on the road safely by May 10th because of the following: May 11th - window tinting day specials for MNMazda forum members and I'm on the short list of 8 allowed to go May 17th - Aaron Lewis concert 5hrs away from me, overnight stay in a hotel with fiance, drive back May 24-28th - Memorial Day camping, may need to drive separately |
What's The Holdup?!
4 Attachment(s)
Well, it's these things:
Attachment 677491 Previous owner took apart the turbo to port the wastegate. He only shaved enough so that the stock flapper fit over the opening. So he went from: ~14mm stock size -> ~17mm ported I went from: ~14mm stock size -> ~17mm his port -> ~21mm my port So I'm at about 150% of the stock wastegate port size to eliminate some boost creep. I could have gone bigger but didn't want to cut into the exhaust turbine housing any more than I already did. So I'm done with this aspect of the build. But, he put the wrong thread bolts in the wastegate cover and busted the top downpipe bolt when removing the stock DP! In trying to remove them the heads stripped right off the bolts. I knew it was wrong when I had to put a 1/2" wrench on the bolts to remove them. 5 Dremel cutting discs, 6 drill bits, 1 stripped EZ-Out and an hour into it I've decided to bring it to a machine shop and have them remove the bolts. Will be bringing the whole housing in today. What I started with: Attachment 677492 Still working on these: Attachment 677493 Main ECU Plug #1 wiring harness and FEM-02 ready to be wired in: Attachment 677494 Crazy amount of time into this harness so far - probably around the 15 - 17 hour mark right now and many more to go. Goal is to make it almost a plug-and-play when the engine goes in. Everything so far is labeled and separated based on where it runs and what it goes to. |
^^^ why I dig on carbs...
|
Looking good. doing all the wiring up front will pay off in the end.
|
Subscribing to this thread, Going to tackle a TII project on my own eventualy.
|
Looking good, 15-20 hours on wiring is about right if you're going for the "it could be factory" look. It's a bunch of work, but once you're done (if you've done it right) you won't have to touch it again for a looooong time :)
|
Might pay you to check the bushings in the wastegate flapper too before you put it all back together - I'm running same hotside with hybrid coldside and after a year of trouble making boost low down it turned out to be shot hinge bush. After looking through a pile of housings I didn't find a single one that didn't have play in it to some degree. Now that's done it's boost o'clock.:egrin:
Takes me back to my build, good memories - keep up the good work. |
Originally Posted by captainbizzaro
(Post 11422368)
Might pay you to check the bushings in the wastegate flapper too before you put it all back together - I'm running same hotside with hybrid coldside and after a year of trouble making boost low down it turned out to be shot hinge bush. After looking through a pile of housings I didn't find a single one that didn't have play in it to some degree. Now that's done it's boost o'clock.:egrin:
Takes me back to my build, good memories - keep up the good work. |
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11419978)
^^^ why I dig on carbs...
Originally Posted by yardy8301
(Post 11420156)
Looking good. doing all the wiring up front will pay off in the end.
Originally Posted by Kaaarl12a
(Post 11420458)
Subscribing to this thread, Going to tackle a TII project on my own eventualy.
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11422083)
Looking good, 15-20 hours on wiring is about right if you're going for the "it could be factory" look. It's a bunch of work, but once you're done (if you've done it right) you won't have to touch it again for a looooong time :)
This also makes me really want to get an Rtek so that I can just plug the ECU back in and drive the car instead of redoing the entire wiring harness to run a Haltech or something along those lines.
Originally Posted by captainbizzaro
(Post 11422368)
Might pay you to check the bushings in the wastegate flapper too before you put it all back together - I'm running same hotside with hybrid coldside and after a year of trouble making boost low down it turned out to be shot hinge bush. After looking through a pile of housings I didn't find a single one that didn't have play in it to some degree. Now that's done it's boost o'clock.:egrin:
Takes me back to my build, good memories - keep up the good work.
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11422388)
Thats a good tip, right there! I'm a major proponent of "do it proper while you're in there"
Well, new updates are as follows: 1. I've been sick for almost a month now. Not sure if it's a sinus infection or something more sinister, have something tightening in my chest and back so I'm going in tomorrow to find out. That's really been slowing the progress down. 2. I think I'm going to use the spare turbo that I have instead of the one that comes apart and was on the car for a few reasons: A. There's no play whatsoever in the turbo, side to side or front to back B. Has the coolant lines still attached C. Appears to be in better shape overall D. Only has one stud broken off in the back 3. Goal is to drive the car in 41 days to get the windows tinted for a steal through the MNMazda forum by Tint Pros here in Minneapolis. 4. Got the car home last night so I can get the work done faster. May put the gas tank back in and take the 12a for it's last few drives before I'm completely ready to swap to the 13bt. Plan on doing some before and after videos with the engines just for fun. Pretty stoked :egrin: So I'm going to try to get some work done today and tomorrow if at all possible. Thanks for the replies guys, makes it worth posting :nod: |
No worries, I couldn't have done my swap without input from other people so just repaying the debt. I had to get a turbo reconditioner to replace it in the end, no other way.
|
Originally Posted by captainbizzaro
(Post 11425488)
No worries, I couldn't have done my swap without input from other people so just repaying the debt. I had to get a turbo reconditioner to replace it in the end, no other way.
I figured it would be something like a rebuild kit, there's one I found for like $150ish that I wouldn't mind picking up next winter. Getting a little antsy now, drove the 12a powered car last night and absolutely loved it. Can't wait for the 13bt to be in and drive that under its own power.:egrin: |
Modified the turbo oil drain with steel tubing, per Sean's direction :icon_tup::
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48b31318.jpg http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...pse450600d.jpg http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psa71df9dd.jpg How I left the engine tonight: http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...pse184cbd5.jpg List of work done: Modified turbo oil drain and adapted to FB GSL-SE front cover New front cover gasket Cleaned MOP and installed new gasket, completely installed CAS, MOP, and front eccentric shaft pulley all reinstalled Cleaned oil pan to ready for install of new oil pan gasket but found that I ordered the wrong one. So I ordered a new one from Atkins tonight, as well as some other small things that I wanted to complete the install. Slowly but surely, and correctly, I'm getting there. |
Not bad metal working at all. Did you make the flange?
|
Originally Posted by lindahlish
(Post 11425705)
Getting a little antsy now, drove the 12a powered car last night and absolutely loved it. Can't wait for the 13bt to be in and drive that under its own power.:egrin:
|
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11431318)
Not bad metal working at all. Did you make the flange?
Originally Posted by GySgtFrank
(Post 11431368)
You're going to have to pack an extra set of shorts once you get the 13BT in there. :icon_tup:
|
Is there a difference between 12a and SE front covers? I dont see a difference with the one I have I dont even know what its from.
|
Originally Posted by MazdaMike02
(Post 11431705)
Is there a difference between 12a and SE front covers? I dont see a difference with the one I have I dont even know what its from.
|
How I Made My Turbo Oil Drain
6 Attachment(s)
Making an FB turbo oil drain into the front cover below the OMP.
Parts needed from the store: 1/2" x 3/8" NPT Bushing 3/8" NPT 2" pipe Attachment 676000 Put the pipe through the 3/8" NPT tapped hole in the front cover and tighten it. Grind off all excess as in this picture so that the pipe is pressing as little as possible on the chain guard for the E-Shaft. Attachment 676001 Grind off the threads on the bushing down to almost nothing. Leave just enough to act as barbs to hold it in place for welding. Attachment 676002 Put the bushing inside the oil drain but don't weld on right away. Attachment 676003 Line up the tighened 2" pipe in the front cover, then tighten the flange with the oil drain all the way up. Mark the relative positions with a Sharpie to ensure that they are tighened to the right spot later. Tack weld the bushing in place and remove to finish weld. Remember to grind off the welds flat to ensure penetration through the stock oil drain pipe to the bushing for no leaks. Attachment 676004 Last pic is what mine looked like when finished. Attachment 676005 Typed that up since I had the fix the links for the pics, moved them in my Photobucket account. Tonight I plan on: 1. Porting the S4 wastegate on the turbo that I'll actually be using 2. Drilling out the busted stud on the back of the exhaust turbine 3. Fully installing the turbo setup 4. Modding the stock 12a engine brace 20mm rearward. Then there's only a few things left till it's installed! :icon_tup: |
Damn dude, you're going to have this installed and running before I even finish collecting the bits for my EFI swap.
I gotta get my ass in gear! (And don't slow down - keeping me motivated here!) |
6 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11433290)
Damn dude, you're going to have this installed and running before I even finish collecting the bits for my EFI swap.
I gotta get my ass in gear! (And don't slow down - keeping me motivated here!) Well, here's what I got done tonight: How I started the night Attachment 675919 Attachment 675920 Attachment 675921 Attachment 675922 Attachment 675923 Attachment 675924 Finished. Got a lot done tonight and pretty happy with the progress. Should be swapping it in on Saturday hopefully and getting the driveshaft made early next week so I can start driving it! :nod: List of things accomplished tonight are as follows: Turbo oil drain completely installed and sealed Coolant line from intake to turbo installed and sealed 2 new down pipe studs installed in turbo Wastegate ported to the largest diameter the stock flapper would allow (didn't want to go all out on this one, went up about 25% from stock so it will work fine) Installed turbo wastegate cover/backing plate Installed turbo completely on engine Removed clutch to view condition, then reinstalled - looks brand new :icon_tup: Some other things probably but I forget List of things needed to do to finish engine while removed: Mod the 12a engine bracket Install waterpump and housing with new gaskets and new thermostat (waiting on the Atkins order) New oil pan gasket installed (Atkins order as well) Then I can INSTALL! Will be working on wiring harness mostly here, as well as removing the 12a and modding the gas tank till Friday. Hopefully by next week she can be in the driveline shop getting a custom driveshaft and I can start driving it by the middle of next week! :egrin: |
Beautimous
|
Making good progress :)
|
4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11434201)
Beautimous
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11434226)
Making good progress :)
Attachment 675572 Stupid snow. So I've kept myself busy through painting my gauge pod: Attachment 675573 Attachment 675574 And this made me feel like DivinDriver, since someone made fun of him for painting individual bolt heads :lol: Attachment 675575 So I'm at a standstill for now, was hoping to get the engine in on Saturday but that's not gonna happen. Guess I'll have to try and get the engine completely ready for the swap with the Atkins package I'm getting today and finish up a few other things but I'm kinda bummed about the weather. MN is terrible for giving you hope then dashing it again. |
Looks good, how close is the color match on that a-pillar?
Did you mod your shifter yet? |
The color match on the SEM burgundy is 95-97%.
Giving shit for painting screw heads??? PFFFFT. I've painted EVERY screw I've taken off so far. ALL interior screws have been painted burgundy, and the headlight bucket screws are now matte black. Keep it up bro - gauges are next on my list too. either tonight or tomorrow AM. Where you thinking of tapping them in? I was thinking to the stereo power harness, although I'm hesitant to add any potential line noise or ground loops into that already convoluted harness. |
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11437163)
Looks good, how close is the color match on that a-pillar?
Did you mod your shifter yet? Haven't modded shifter yet, pretty nervous about that. Don't want to go through sideways and risk screwing up the rod. I'm a smaller guy (5' 8" with shoes on is what I always say :nod: ) and I thought it would bring the shifter closer to me if I just cut the tunnel - still unsure what I'd like to do. I don't have a drill press or access to one so I don't know. |
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11437268)
The color match on the SEM burgundy is 95-97%.
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11437268)
Giving shit for painting screw heads??? PFFFFT. I've painted EVERY screw I've taken off so far. ALL interior screws have been painted burgundy, and the headlight bucket screws are now matte black.
Originally Posted by ioTus
(Post 11437268)
Keep it up bro - gauges are next on my list too. either tonight or tomorrow AM. Where you thinking of tapping them in? I was thinking to the stereo power harness, although I'm hesitant to add any potential line noise or ground loops into that already convoluted harness.
|
Yeah I took the time to restore most of the hardware in my engine bay (chemical strip rust and paint heads black) and have painted lots of other little things here and there. I think a lot of us are that anal about the cars, we just don't post about it as much as DivinDriver does lol.
FYI, any rx7 shift rod can be used as the "base" shift rod for the modification. So if you don't want to risk messing up the T2 rod just use one out of a 12a trans or a NA FC or whatever you can find. You'll need to do some measuring to get it right since both the NA FC and 12a shift rod have the current hole in a different spot than the T2, so you can use the "move it 30mm forward" method... |
6 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 82transam
(Post 11437294)
FYI, any rx7 shift rod can be used as the "base" shift rod for the modification. So if you don't want to risk messing up the T2 rod just use one out of a 12a trans or a NA FC or whatever you can find. You'll need to do some measuring to get it right since both the NA FC and 12a shift rod have the current hole in a different spot than the T2, so you can use the "move it 30mm forward" method...
Well, got a lot done today! What the engine looked like this morning: Attachment 675424 Drilled and tapped the water pump housing for my 1/8 NPT water temp sensor for the temp gauge Attachment 675425 Attachment 675426 New thermostat Attachment 675427 Got the oil temp and oil pressure gauge ready for install Attachment 675428 How the engine looked when done Attachment 675429 List of work done: New water pump housing to block gasket New thermostat New thermostat gasket Drilled and tapped hole for Auto Meter water temp gauge sensor Hooked up turbo coolant line Readied for oil temp and pressure gauges Oil pan gasket installed Modified engine mounting brace for 13b engine In other words - COMPLETELY ENGINE DONE! I could now insert the engine into the 12a car but can't yet, since there's too much snow around. Will be going in soon though, super stoked! |
EWWWW tell me you have the fram filter because its keeping the dirt divers out?
All and all looking good :icon_tup: |
Originally Posted by Qingdao
(Post 11438524)
EWWWW tell me you have the fram filter because its keeping the dirt divers out?
All and all looking good :icon_tup: Thanks, culmination of 9 hours of hard work today and I feel pretty accomplished :egrin: |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:07 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands