It was a bone stock 12a Nikki carb'ed Rotary that was practically all original. I'm sure with a Racing Beat intake and aftermarket carb and some more work it would have been a much more fun car. Would have needed an exhaust to compliment the intake as well.

Thanks man, it is a lot of work but the car is a blast to own and drive when it's all done. This engine may be taken apart sooner than you think, we will have to see :egrin:

Will be going with a eBay FMIC for now. A 12 piece steel collection, clamps, and silicone connectors with a decently large FMIC. It's a cheaper kit and will only be used a while as it comes. I plan on using different silicone adapters that are actually reinforced later in the build and upgrading it all.

Thanks for liking the video! I did it just for people like you who weren't quite sold on going forward with the swap. :bigthumb:

Also thanks for reminding me about the writeup, I'll be working on that tonight if I can get the time.

Thanks! Don't worry, my license is staying in my wallet and I won't be losing it anytime soon. I don't drive like that all the time, only when necessary :egrin:

HAH! I AM such a girl! :gay: I HAD a '69 Camaro with the 250 and a 3 speed in the '80's. I have to say it was disappointing.
I think when I get my 12A right, I'll be quite satisfied... She's to be my daily driver. Just think, 20-30 years from now when I can't see far enough to get my driver's license any more, Someone will be thrilled to get a stock vehicle to do their mods from scratch... With whatever technology is available then!
I have to say, Your upgrade looks like a ball! You've made a huge gain! :worship:I'm impressed. But, I'll just get my 12A "right" and be content. I'm certain you've been MORE than an inspiration to others! You've probably provoked a few.

Congrats!

12a's can definitely be fun, no doubt about that. Once you have 200+ ponies and boost though it's hard to go back lol.

Austin - this thread did turn out really well - you're better at documenting what you're doing than i am apparently lol. I'm impressed that you followed through on my advice etc and also impressed that you got this thing done so damn quickly :)

I dunno. I have an 09' GT w/ suspension work (dropped ~2" rear 3-link swapped to all rod-ends including panhard, camber plates, strut braces, 1"+ wider rims and tires to match), intake, and tune. I am probably around 290-300 rwhp (probably being a little generous here). I personally find my 85' 12a more fun to drive. Granted it doesn't have the power but it's so damn light and maneuverable it feels faster.

I do love the feel of boost though. My dad has a 98' 300ZXTT that's bone stock w/ the HICAS system and it's an absolute joy to drive. We are planning a build with it soon to turn it into a road race car. I am hoping to grab the old turbos off it and use one on the 12a.

Yah thats the thing about the super lightweight - you dont really need that power for acceleration if you have nimbleness and top speed -which these cars have both.

Well unto a point. They handle great until they dont :D

Didn't mean any disrespect! Just that's the closest car I could think of. I know of someone, not saying it's me, that has a V6 Mustang that is an auto and that's what the 12a reminded me of. Under powered for the car but just fun enough to make it worth while driving.

I daily drove my 12a for quite a while actually, over two years there were some longer stints where I got in it and took it on long drives and short daily drives. It was very fun and I enjoyed it being all original but it's so much...more...now :egrin:

Thanks! The swap isn't for everyone but for those of us who desire the extra oomph it gives it is definitely worth every minute, cent, and worry it brings along and I only hope I can help others on their way to accomplishing a similar swap :bigthumb:

Oh so so true. And getting in the daily and driving that feels like I'm in a tank trying to get up to 60mph..well a tank is probably faster. Yeah, don't think I can ever go back to a 12a without plans to swap it out for something else :nod:

Thanks Sean! It means a lot, you know that. I couldn't have done this swap this quickly or efficiently without your help and someday I'm going to have to get you to drive it. It's funny, because most of the documentation, pictures, times and details is mostly for my own benefit! I am terrible at writing things down for myself and I have grown accustomed to this almost being a running log of sorts. I will eventually look back on this all and think, "Wow, I did that at 19...what can I do now??" and it'll all come together. Thanks again bud, I appreciate all the help and advice and will continue to as the car gets farther...:egrin:

I'm assuming by the GT designation you'd be referring to a Mustang with the V8.
In that case I can heartily agree with you that a 7 would be much more fun to drive even under 12a power. That person I eluded to earlier with the Mustang may be me and I couldn't barely stand to drive that thing after getting used to the 7. There's just something about how these cars drive that cannot be matched...

The 300ZXTT is truly a pretty car and looks like a blast, I'd love to drive one someday.

At 2360lbs even a 90hp 12a was fun, now at 200+hp it's almost scary and I'd like to eventually see 350+hp in the car :biggrin:

Yeah, I'm not going to be pushing this thing too hard on stock 13's and open rear end with no rear sway bar as it is now. Once LSD, 5 lug, larger tires maybe I'll try some more fun things out :nod:

Updates as of Late:
FMIC, Optima Red Top, Optima battery box, relocation to storage bin, and some other parts will be ordered tomorrow and will be installed as soon as I get them all in so that I can close the hood.

Pure Evil Genius
I've now put a few hundred miles on the car and have loved them all. Just within the last few days however I've had some dastardly evil thoughts cross my mind...

We set record lows here in MN for July, like highs of 60's and lows towards 50's and with 6 month winters (winter described as having snow on the ground, could be extended to 7 or 8 months with temperatures reaching freezing at night) you're always thinking about getting ready for winter...winter......winter storage!

I have some huge plans and updates that will be revealed within the next week or so after figuring out some final details on this school year. Just be assured that they are going to alter this car for the better, faster and stronger :bigthumb:

Shrimp - I agree, a 12a would be more fun than a Mustang, but that's because Rx7 > all other cars lol :P

Yeah man, glad I could help you with the swap. One of these days I'd like to make a "how-to" thread about it. Currently most of the swap info is hidden within build threads like ours. Would be nice to have a how-to like I see a lot of on the Subaru forums I'm on. Oh well, maybe someday.

Someday we'll get around to it :bigthumb:

Updates as of Yet

This week marks the two year anniversary of the car and myself. I went to my fiance's grandpa's house for his birthday (he's the one who bought the car and sold it to me) and thought I'd take a few pics.

1st Pics I Ever Received Of The Car
Attachment 664546

Attachment 664547

Attachment 664548

As She Sits
Attachment 664549

Attachment 664550

Hanging out with some buddies, mainly working on the Monster Audi
Attachment 664551

Attachment 664552

FMIC piping kit with everything necessary for installation
Attachment 664553

From turbo to TB
2.0" to 2.5" 90deg silicone elbow
2.0" t-bolt clamp for turbo
2.5" BOV adapter kit with BOV
2.5" 12 piece piping kit with 18x12x3" outside (12x11x3" core) FMIC and silicone adapters and clamps
3.25" to 2.5" silicone reducers for piping to FMIC inlet and outlet
2.5" ~2ft extra pipe
GReddy throttle body adapter

AAAAAAAAANNDD the bombshell.

I was adjusting the TPS on the car since it felt a little off. Sure enough it was at 0.7v at idle and I adjusted it up to 1.0v. While driving it would cut out at about 3,500RPM while starting to make boost. I was testing this and found that it kept doing it so I adjusted it a little more and tried again.

I boosted it and let it go back to idle and it died. Like completely died. While cranking there's no oil pressure, even while cranking with the low oil pressure problem. Car won't even fire anymore. Seriously scared I wrecked an apex seal and will need to move the rebuild date up much much sooner than expected.

You don't want to run too rich or lean, but I don't think adjusting the TPS to the correct voltage would have done that. Of course, I don't know what happened just hoping that wasn't it. I adjusted that other screw that's on the driver's side closest to the throttle body (not the one with the 8mm nut securing it) before it happened but I wouldn't think that would have done it either. I didn't check AFR's after the adjustment so that worries me. Will be testing compression first thing when I have time.

Headed down to a Dr. appointment tomorrow for a long needed surgery consultation and will try to make enough time to come home and test compression to make sure it's still good. If it's not I'm not sure what will happen with the car right now. Returning to college after the summer off really messes with your brain.

The fact that it isn't firing makes me think its not an apex seal. My buddy blew 2 seals in his S4 and it still started. If the compression is good perhaps the ECU?
Whatever it is hopefully you get her diagnosed and back on the road quickly.

I'm thinking more and more that it's a blown fuse of some sort. I completely agree with it still starting if a seal was bad, I've seen multiple videos of rotaries still starting with bad seals and running on one rotor. I'll double check compression just to make sure it's still good but I'm pretty sure it is.

I have a super terrible schedule here for the next week or two but hopefully I can make time to get it running and driving again. FMIC stuff should all be here and I'll start installing that no matter what here real soon :egrin:

Well went out and checked on the car for less than 5min last night. Found out that this fuse was blown:

Attachment 664327

So I replaced the fuse with a spare 60a fuse I had around (couldn't find a 30a) and tried cranking the engine over.

The car sputtered and fired, to which I got quite happy about. Then I noticed smoke coming from the wiring harness on my side of the car. I quickly ran and unhooked the battery and that's how the car sits right now.

I'll have to go over and through each wire to figure out if there's another fuse blown that's causing the melting wires. It's the same wire coming from that fuse to the Main Relay that was melted and I'll be double checking each and every fuse in the car as well as the grounds. Hopefully I don't need an ECU or anything.

I'm sure you'll figure it out fairly easily. Still, it's stories like this that quickly dampen my occasional bouts of turbo envy. Keep at it!

So you're saying there used to be a melted wire before the swap-in?

Glad the engine is ok, Same question as Iotus, was the wire already damaged previously? Makes me wonder if the main relay is bad, or has a loose connection internally that's shorting out...

Haha I don't blame ya! Thanks for the good wishes, I appreciate it. It's completely worth it in the end though, if you've never ridden in one and get the chance take a ride in one and you'll see what I mean :nod:

I never noticed a melted wire before the swap, no. I wrote that when I was really tired and I see how ya got that out of it.

Essentially:
I boosted the engine and it died when trying to idle afterwards.
I tried cranking it for maybe 3 or 4 minutes total right after it happened thinking I just killed it with an ill-adjusted idle.
I saw some smoke but thought it was just from some water I spilled on the engine when filling the cooling system.
Pushed the car and left it for a few days.
Came back and saw the EGI Comp fuse was blown and replaced it.
Again, while cranking the smoke appeared from the wiring.
I unattached the battery just to be safe and have left it again.
While feeling the wire I can feel that it is melting going to the Main Relay from the fuse box EGI Comp fuse.

I'll go through the whole wiring system tomorrow hopefully.

I never noticed any melted wires upon installation. I'm going to check out the main relay with a ohmmeter as soon as I can.

I have tomorrow morning off and it's pretty much my only day in the last 2 weeks and for another week. Wednesday I'm technically off but I'll be doing other things besides car work.

My wiring issue:
I tested it today and it is the W/L (White/Blue) wire that goes from the 2nd gen fuse box labeled "EGI Comp" to the W/L wire in the large plug of the main relay. I tried cranking it and it melted the insulation for the length of the wire a second time. It's only that one that's out too and I already have sent money for one from a member with a good iTrader score so hopefully that can get here at the beginning of next week so I can install and test it. By then I hope to have the FMIC mounted and ready to go as well as some other things I'd like to see done in the car before too long.

New windshield installed! Now I don't have to look through a huge crack anymore and can actually enjoy the drive
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psd5f2ef59.jpg

Hole through radiator support for FMIC piping - made it about 3.25in just for future needs up to 3" pipe and I'll be lining the hole with a hose cut in half so it doesn't scratch or cut into the silicone adapter that will be there
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps92326278.jpg

Top view of TB side of the piping - only way I could get it to clear the brake lines that made any sense. Luckily I got the kit with 12 pieces in it so I have all sorts of bends and interesting ways to run the piping
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps70a5510d.jpg

Pic of the TB adapter and its piping
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5fe0e044.jpg

Will try to make some more progress here over the next few hours before work - we will see!

So it was the main relay that was fried?

Honestly I'm really not sure right now. When I crank the engine it melts that wire so I am assuming it's the Main Relay. That wire just goes straight from the 2nd gen fuse box (all the wires in the box are 12v+ hot, no duh) and none of the other wires are having an issue so I think it is the Main Relay. Will find out on Monday, have one on the way! :nod:

Some progress on the FMIC and finishing wiring tonight, pretty happy with its direction so far!

Wrapped up the wires near the firewall and cleaned them up tremendously so they actually look presentable now
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps75c1597e.jpg

Took out battery tray and cleaned up the wiring on that side a bit
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psf609525b.jpg

TB side without battery tray and cleaned up wiring
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psc731d800.jpg

How the engine bay looked after I couldn't take the mosquitos anymore
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4010e22e.jpg

Accidentally posted here. Woops.

Well, personal update just because then!
I'm going back to the University of Minnesota - Twin Cities campus here starting the day after Labor Day. I'll be living with family closer to the campus with the garage that I have stored my car in the last two winters. It's very small and cramped but if I play my cards right I can use it enough to swap out to an FC subframe and do a full 5 lug swap. This will be among other things but I won't disclose them until later when more things are decided. I also have to have a surgery over winter break so I wouldn't be able to use the almost month long break to get car stuff done but that's whatever.

Got the FMIC and piping all finalized tonight!

Will be making brackets out of flat steel tomorrow morning probably and getting it all finished up. This is what it will look like though, pretty happy with it.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psfb402fdb.jpg

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps90786393.jpg

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psd8fb18e4.jpg

Also reunited my hood with my car, such a glorious reunion :nod:

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psf2b66d65.jpg

Can't wait to get it running again! :bigthumb:

Where did the battery end up?

Will be going in the storage bin. I have that huge Interstate still (which I know is not a sealable battery) but will be getting an Optima soon. I just need to run the wires and it should be ready to start either today or Wednesday at the latest.

Attachment 663771

Attachment 663772

Attachment 663773

Attachment 663774

Attachment 663775

Attachment 663776

Attachment 663777

Yeah buddy :)

You're gonna flip when you feel the extra power that intercooler adds, and reduction in turbo lag from that blow off valve!

HUGE diff!

While I can see the intercooler improving power by reducing air temp, how do u think the blow off valve will reduce turbo lag? The only purpose of the BOV is to release intake pressure when u lift off the gas....it does nothing to help pressurize the intake.

Austin, does it keep poppin the same fuse? or is it random intermittent 80s wiring?
must be grounding out somewhere and should not be too difficult to trace if you follow the wires out of the fuse box.

What air filter is that? specs on the sizing too? I need to replace mine soon

The blow off valve relieves incoming pressure after the throttle plates close. Without a blow off valve, the intake charge backs up against the throttle plates and pushes back against the cold side turbine, slowing the turbo, which then has to spool back up once throttle is opened again.

At least that is my understanding of why you put a blow off valve on a turbo. I could be mistaken.

What you are describing is surge but that really only happens if the BOV fails or is opening very slow. If his stock system is working as it should, a new BOV will not help in reducing lag.

It Runs Again!
 

I know I'll love it! The old system was probably really heat soaked (never got air scooped to it, just passed over it at best) and I never really enjoyed it much.

This is true, I hear your point. More on that later in this post.

It would only melt the W/L (White/Blue) wire from the 2nd gen fuse box to the Main Relay. That's how I thought it was the main relay that was the issue. Nothing else was effected or had issues so that's what I figured it was.

I'll grab some specs on the air filter Wednesday if I remember. It's just a cheap-o from O'Reilly I suspect (came with the FC) and it's working just fine. Will probably be buying a new one of a shorter variety just to help with fitment but I'll have to see while doing the CAI setup on Wednesday morning.

Yeah, this is my understanding of the workings of a BOV as well. Obviously I still have to hook the BOV up to the intake via a vacuum hose to detect the surge back towards the turbo after the throttle closes.

ioTus was right in the fact that it will help my turbo response and lag, here's why:
I never had the stock diverter valve hooked up. You may be wondering why in the world I would do that to myself - running the turbo with no stock BOV. The truth is that it would not work properly for me. As soon as I'd start to build boost, right around the 3500-4000RPM range it would open the BOV. I don't know if it's just something with the unit itself or if it was just my error. I just ran the car without it the whole time it's been swapped in.
So when I'd build boost running without it and shut the throttle there would be a surge backwards towards the cold turbine and it would slow it down I'm sure which resulted in turbo lag. Now that I have a BOV that will be functional I think I'll be able to notice the difference between my throttle play with the new BOV and the old way without one. That and the colder and denser air due to it actually being cooled will help out immensely.

It Runs Again!
I was able to get the Turbo FB running again today! I finished up the wiring enough to start the car (really ghetto way of hooking up the battery, I'll post a pic tomorrow or Wed) and she cranked right over!

Turned out to be the Main Relay that must have popped when I was boosting the car in the yard a while back. Not sure if I have something wired wrong in the car or if that relay was going the entire time. As soon as I plugged it in, hooked up the battery, said a few quick prayers and hoped for the best - cranked the car and it brapped to life! I let it idle for a few minutes and shut it back off and that's as far as I was able to get before work.

Wednesday Morning Plans
Finalizing the mount of the FMIC and its piping
Custom CAI using the stock MAF and aftermarket air filter I have now with some leftover 2.5" FMIC piping and a silicone adapter from the piping to the MAF I bought for this purpose
Wiring in the battery to the storage bin - went and bought some more wire to make it reach the bin since the route is a little longer than expected
Clean the car up, inside and out to make it presentable
Take it down to the buddy's house I was at tonight, working on his monster S4 Audi, and help him finalize his FMIC
Cruise with him and his dad in his dad's 800RWHp Saleen Mustang
Make it out to the local Wednesday night meets I like to attend but have missed the last two
Take some pics and talk with some fellow local rotor heads :bigthumb:

Well... I'm gonna chime in on BOV.

I don't think the turbine will be slowed that much by the cold side of the turbo (any more that just normally pushing boost). If it did it would only affect it at idle, and as soon as the throttle is opened the pressure would equalize.


I think the main reason for BOVs are so that the residual boost doesn't blow the throttle butterfly vavles in half when they close. Vacuum on one side with boost on the other doesn't seem like a good idea.


At any rate we can all agree: Having BOV good; Not having BOV bad. :D

Sorry to threadjack for a second Austin - just need to clear some things up here.

you guys got me thinking i'm taking crazy pills here, so i went and looked it up.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve
and if you're an anti-wikipedia fanboy, here's something from real tuners

Blow Off Valve FAQ: Read if you are thinking of buying one! - NASIOC

Glad you found the issue with the wiring. At least it didn't do more damage. And if your stock BOV was not working, then a new BOV will at least help you build the appropriate amount of boost.

iotus, what part are you referencing in the 2 links? The bad part is the rich mixture during lift of, right? But nothing about lag...at least through my quick glance over my phone. The BOV is necessary so that the pressure can be vented somewhere and not cause surge which is bad for the turbo...much like running at full speed and all of a sudden, a brick wall appears in front of u...lol.

Not sure about rich mixtures at liftoff, those links point to the definition and function of blow-off/bypass valves.

Which, as you and i have both pointed out, is to eliminate surge. Austin had no functioning blow-off valve, hence adding a functioning blow off valve will decrease turbo lag (and wear) resulting from surge.

We are saying the same thing :nod:

He didn't have one at all? I guess I missed that part. If he was using the stock TMIC I would have assumed he was using the stock inlet pipe (which has a recirculation valve built into it)

Anyway, as said above, most of us (there's a few exceptions) agree that a BOV is a good thing to have, especially if you want your turbo to last.

You guys are all leaving out the most important part - they just sound cool :D

Also, not to derail the thread too much, but as far as the Suby guys having overly rich mixtures and backfireing/popping etc with an atmosphere dump BOV is because their MAF system is overly sensitive to such things. The FC computer is archaic enough that it doesn't really matter to it what you do with that excess air (the computer isn't precise enough to notice that it's missing lol) at least in my experience. My cars run just fine :)

I think we all completely agree :bigthumb:

I actually went through and read those links - thanks man!

It did help me build the amount of boost I'm looking for today, more on that later :egrin:

Correct sir, no functioning BOV before and now I do have it hooked up.

Some good discussion going on here though - fine with me! :nod:

Correct Sean, I did have the stock recirc valve installed but didn't have it working. When I hooked it up to vacuum one time it was constantly opening and not letting me actually boost. Not sure if it was just me or the part, still don't know. All I know is that the car rips now :biggrin:

You're probably a member on that forum that Geoff referred to above I'd bet haha.
But yes, they do sound cool and help build boost safely but you're forgetting something - I can't hear it! With the RB 2.5" down pipe ending right by my feet I can't hear it at all. Sucks.

I took the car out and ripped around in it for a few miles. It builds boost so fast now and there is absolutely no lag whatsoever! I'm making 10psi of boost safely according to AFR's and the car is working amazingly now.

I'll update with pics later tonight, we will have to see how the evening progresses :egrin:

Dood that's such great news! So glad to hear it!

(I'm also a member of that forum - used to be a WRX dood)

The ghetto way I had the wiring done just to get the car to start:
Attachment 663452

Where the battery ended up going for now:
Attachment 663453

Set the Throttle Position Sensor TPS to 1.00v at idle, is much better now!
Attachment 663454

A couple shots of the Cold Air Intake CAI I made custom just for my application. Will eventually switch spots with the intercooler piping in the radiator surround and the filter will go outside and in front of the radiator
Attachment 663455

Attachment 663456

Attachment 663457

Attachment 663458

Amazing how cramped that engine bay starts to get with all the piping isn't it? It's worth it though :D

And yes I'm on Nasioc, it's where I found my Impreza, but honestly I rarely go on there unless I need parts. To say those guys are immature is probably an understatement...

Thanks man!

And I remember, you had a bugeye hatch right? I'm tempted to get a Subi for a winter and daily driver.

It does really start getting cramped fast. I couldn't imagine having the A/C still in there, woulda taken it out no matter what I think.

Good to hear our forum isn't too much like that! I've only been on a few with some 13yr olds (at least that's how old they act) and couldn't stand it.

Some pics to round off the day:
Attachment 663431

Attachment 663432

Attachment 663433

Attachment 663434

You should get the vac diagrams from an FC to stick on the underside of your hood. Just to complet it :D

Haha I thought that myself too! :biggrin: But nah, if it's up to me I'll be repainting the entire engine bay and the bottom of the hood as well this winter. Needs to be cleaned and shined up and I think that would hit the spot.

I did actually get a lot done to the car today and I'm pretty proud of the progress so far.

Got the car in a familiar position
Attachment 663282

Had these two goals
Attachment 663283

Found out why my shifter felt so loose - it has eaten the bushings! The spec on the top of the mount there is the biggest piece of bushing I can find. I could feel a few on the top of the shift rod but don't know where the rest went (I do know, I just don't wanna say it out loud or type it).

So short throw shifter will be ordered way ahead of its time to say the least.
Attachment 663284

Remounted the engine with the Racing Beat 12a to 13b conversion engine brace
Attachment 663285

The transmission mount now looks like swiss cheese since I had to remount the transmission when I did the engine. Ah well, it's only temporary anyways
Attachment 663286

Installed the 2.5" Racing Beat presilencer that I bought used in a package deal with the downpipe but never installed
Attachment 663287

Didn't get any pics of the engine mount in but whatever.

Car is like 4 times quieter with the presilencer on there, not sure if I like it or not yet - will have to see. Maybe when the rest of the exhaust is on there I can have an opinion. I don't like the angle of the presilencer since it's made for an FC and goes right to the middle of the driveshaft.

Also have cheated on my car with this one:
http://images.craigslist.org/00b0b_c...Iy_600x450.jpg
Thought about trading him even up for the Turbo FB (needs some wiring work). I've always wanted one of them and will have at least one in my future. Ah, I'm terrible.

Omg do it

If that FD is clean, running properly, and he takes an even swap, DO IT!

C'mon guys, between you and my fiance my car is already gone and I have this one! :lol:

In his ad he says "no trades cash only" but I'm talking to him today on the phone and I'd like to go down and see the car tomorrow night. It has 1,000mi on an engine and turbo rebuild from a local builder who I've met and is good at his craft. You can see that it isn't an unmodded car either (tinted windows, aftermarket rims, drilled and slotted rotors, etc.). An FD has been my dream car since I was 10yrs old and I've caught myself more than once wishing my FB was an FD. It doesn't help that I look at the 3rd Gen Classifieds weekly to look at FD prices. For a running and driving car you're gonna spend $10,000 pretty much and for a modded one it's gonna be $15,000 and more. Jeez, just a shell goes for almost $5,000. So getting a running and driving FD with a fresh rebuild on an even trade for an FB is practically unheard of.

I'll probably just drive down in my 7 to look at it and see if he'd go for it. I don't think I could sell my car on the whim that I could buy an FD though. It would take a while for my car to sell for the price I want for it. If he doesn't want an even up trade I'd probably be OK just walking away and keeping my car and getting an FD in a few years (after college and a wedding, ya know - the important stuff) while still having a Turbo Rotary.

Ugh, decisions and dreams :scratch:

One more pic, when the ad comes down these'll come out of the build thread anyways:
http://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_h...Bv_600x450.jpg

Lucky. I can't find an FB worth buying to save my life. Damn Louisiana and your big trucks and shit...

Well.... I guess I'm the only one here that wouldn't trade for an FD.

I would trade for a duce or an RX3 in a HURRY!* :D


*massive rust being a trade breaker.

An R100 FTW!!! with an RX3 sp running a close second and would never turn down a duece. FD's are pretty though and I always find myself checking prices locally...

Haha if it's up to me, my next vehicle will be a big truck!

I'd much rather have an FD personally, deuces and 3's are sick too but there's always been something about the FD with me.

Same here man, good rundown there!

I'm not really in the mood to update with any details, but:
I've listed up the car for sale. There's a link in my sig to my local CL ad and will list up the 7Club one as soon as I can.

Sad, sad day :(

damn dood if i was a rich sonofabitch i'd buy that and hold on to it until you're better off financially.

its my favorite color, and turbo.

don't budge on the price - it will be hard to move at $7k but i dont want you to sell it really. So you should probably say like $7500 or something.

or add a leading 1 to that number.

How many miles does the engine have on it?