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Hey guys I know you all have been seeing alot from me lately.... Not trying to get on anyones nerves so I am starting a centralized area of what all I am doing and going to do to the car.
1985 GS manual, rats nest removed, GSL-SE rear end and brakes
things to do:
fixing steering wheel movement
clean and install Dellorto DHLA48 with RB intake
fuel leak and rear end leak
radiator leak along with replacing coolant level sensor
replacing fuel pump
fix blinkers
full RB exhaust
classic japan wheels
washer fluid sensor
there will probably be more pop up the more I start to drive the car.
Currently in the middle of cleaning and rebuilding the DHLA
I am ordering a Mazdatrix radiator with RB hoses
I am attaching all photos that I have at the moment
Do you have the metal fuel pump shield for the car? Those soft lines are awful exposed under there.
No I do not. I didn't even know there was such a thing...
Driving the car tonight and the brakes got extremely hard to push so I either have a brake booster vacuum leak or the brake booster just died on me... When I hit the brakes it also causes the car to bog down alot and idle really rough so I hope that is a sign that the vacuum hose has a leak.
Test it. Remove the hose and put a vacuum pump on it. Pump it up to 20 PSI (it will take many many pumps). Vacuum Should hold steady. Now pump the brake pedal one time and hold it in the down position. You should loose about... 10 PSI, but not all PSI. If it goes to 0 PSI with one pump your booster has a leak.
Also check for cracks in the booster soft lines and check operation of the check valve.
How would I know if the check valve is operating properly??
Edit:
Found the thread on how to check it and its not the check valve and I can't find any vacuum leaks. I also found brake fluid around the fittings where the check valve is and I read that brake fluid destroys boosters so I am going to go with it being that. I don't know when I will be able to get to that and work on it since I don't have a second set of hands to help me with bleeding the brakes and so forth after I get done. I will probably take it to a shop and get that fixed along with the rear end leak and fuel leak all in one go.
Also when pushing on the brake at idle it causes the car to go from idling at 800 to about 450 or 500 and tries to stall the car out hard.
Air should only blow through it in one direction. Its the little plastic bit between the hoses at the booster itself.
yea the check valve is only allowing air to go through in the direction away from the booster which I would guess is correct since its suppose to draw a vacuum.
No I do not. I didn't even know there was such a thing...
Driving the car tonight and the brakes got extremely hard to push so I either have a brake booster vacuum leak or the brake booster just died on me... When I hit the brakes it also causes the car to bog down alot and idle really rough so I hope that is a sign that the vacuum hose has a leak.
I am going to investigate more in the morning.
Its just a little piece of sheet metal that protects the fuel lines, filter, and pump from stuff like rocks. The pump you have is mounted in one of the tapped M6 holes for the shield. I've got a spare if you're interested or can't source a local one.
As for your braking issue. If you've got fluid under/near the brake booster you have a master cylinder leak. Sounds like you might need a booster as well.
Its just a little piece of sheet metal that protects the fuel lines, filter, and pump from stuff like rocks. The pump you have is mounted in one of the tapped M6 holes for the shield. I've got a spare if you're interested or can't source a local one.
As for your braking issue. If you've got fluid under/near the brake booster you have a master cylinder leak. Sounds like you might need a booster as well.
I hope its not the master and it is just residual from the old one because the guy I bought the car from had the whole brake system gone through. I has a brand new master cylinder and resouvior which is why I think it was just time for the booster to go.
anyways how much would it cost me to have that bad boy shipped to 37217 because I want to make this my daily and trip doer over my truck that does about 16 on the highway.
Had the rear end leak fixed and all the seals replaced in the axle housing on Wednesday. I am just driving the car around now with its quirks because I am out of money for the time being and it is running and driving pretty good for now.
Plan on going to a car meet in Hendersonville later on today.
This weekend I will be changing out the old radiator with a new Aluminum Mazdatrix one.
Does it matter what fluid I should use? I am planning on using Prestone 50/50
Do I need to burp the system or will it pretty much fill up easily?
Is there any tricks I need to do to get the radiator in or out?
Hey, I'm not too far from Hendersonville. Are they still having the car show on main street on Friday night's?
I am not sure. I have been trying to find one to go to but it doesn't look like my car is going to move much now since I am having the problem of my oil pressure reading zero at idle...
Well guys this might be the end of my rx7 build for awhile.
Over the weekend I drove it home to show it to some friends and family. Home is about 100 miles down the road. Well on the way home I noticed that the oil gauge would fall to zero sitting at idle but cruising down the road it would hold a steady 60. I know the gauge accuracy is garbage at best but its a good reference. When I had the rear end leak fixed I went ahead and had them change the oil in the car for me since I can't do it myself because I live in an apartment complex. Ever since then the car has done the idle oil psi drop. I'm afraid that the engine might be on its way out and I don't have any money to keep throwing at the thing.
So I know the problem could be one of these:
1. the oil pressure sensor is going out (doubt it but that is what I am hoping for)
2. the oil is thinner than what was it is and its losing pressure that way.
3. the oil pick up tube could be clogged
4. the stupid o ring on the front cover is bad and shrunk since the previous owner put synthetic oil in the car
5. the engine could be about to die
If the engine is dead idk what I will do. I have to much money to sell the car with a bad engine and not get any money back. Any ideas would be great help.
If all else fails I will just keep on driving it and hope for the best since I have read people have done that and not had a problem out of there cars.
Well guys this might be the end of my rx7 build for awhile.
Over the weekend I drove it home to show it to some friends and family. Home is about 100 miles down the road. Well on the way home I noticed that the oil gauge would fall to zero sitting at idle but cruising down the road it would hold a steady 60. I know the gauge accuracy is garbage at best but its a good reference. When I had the rear end leak fixed I went ahead and had them change the oil in the car for me since I can't do it myself because I live in an apartment complex. Ever since then the car has done the idle oil psi drop. I'm afraid that the engine might be on its way out and I don't have any money to keep throwing at the thing.
So I know the problem could be one of these:
1. the oil pressure sensor is going out (doubt it but that is what I am hoping for)
2. the oil is thinner than what was it is and its losing pressure that way.
3. the oil pick up tube could be clogged
4. the stupid o ring on the front cover is bad and shrunk since the previous owner put synthetic oil in the car
5. the engine could be about to die
If the engine is dead idk what I will do. I have to much money to sell the car with a bad engine and not get any money back. Any ideas would be great help.
If all else fails I will just keep on driving it and hope for the best since I have read people have done that and not had a problem out of there cars.
Thanks Josh
1. That's what I think.
2. Compounding number 1
3. VERY UNLIKLY.
4. Possible, but not a difficult fix. You can do it in a parking lot at an apartment. I wouldn't blame synthetic oil.
5. Usually these cars die cause of low compression or coolant seals. However you could very easily spin a bearing if you are running low oil pressure. which will kill an engine (ask me I know from exp.)
1. That's what I think.
2. Compounding number 1
3. VERY UNLIKLY.
4. Possible, but not a difficult fix. You can do it in a parking lot at an apartment. I wouldn't blame synthetic oil.
5. Usually these cars die cause of low compression or coolant seals. However you could very easily spin a bearing if you are running low oil pressure. which will kill an engine (ask me I know from exp.)
Thanks for the opinions. I really hope it's number one but I guess I will find out soon enough.
so this is the kit I am leaning towards getting to go in the car. I am unsure of where I would mount it but this will solve both problems in one stroke and keep me from worrying about the water temp. as well
So over the past few days I have done some work on some parts laying around.
I have reassembled my racing beat intake manifold and now am just waiting to buy the rebuild kit for my dell.
I also converted to using this after reading some old threads about how it was good stuff.
I also ordered a new oil sending unit from RockAuto that is a replica of the OEM version and cost me 45 bucks but everyone said to steer away from the US ones so that is what I did.
Other than that I got the idle screw to work on the carb and also fixed the carb since it was orginally running only on 2 barrels and now it runs on all 4 and what a difference that has made.
the next things to do on my list are:
rebuild the dell and buy a redline filter for it
change out the fuel pump and regulator
install the intake and dell and get the car running with more powaaaa (as jeremy clarkson would say it)
eventually a RB header with a more straight flow exhaust... maybe a turn down
adjustable bucket seats (been looking at sparcos)
and of course whatever comes up that needs to be fixed
07-22-15, 04:50 PM
