81 custom widebody
#257
few changes
I don't think I posted this before. I decided to chuck the scrawny T5 trans and went with a TKO 600 5 sp. I had to re-do the motor mounts and and cross member. I also have this on the way from Granny's Speed Shop. it's not cheap but it will give me a bulletproof rear axle that should handle anything I throw at it. it's a nice set up and eliminates the problems with the stock 4 link. 4.55 gears, 33 spline forged axles.
#260
Color
its actually in white epoxy primer right now. It does need a little bodywork still. It has some pinholes and some areas that need sanded. I got burnt out on bodywork after getting the kit done and decided to get it running and driving. Once I have it going I'll finish the body and paint it. Still not sure what I want for paint. I just want to drive it now!
#261
Exhaust
The exhaust is done. last big bit of fabrication on the car. Rest is pretty much bolt on. I wrapped it last night and painted the wrap with high heat spray. I have some more stainless exhaust ties coming today so I'll put them on replacing the temporary wire ties and install it tonight. now it's a waiting game for the Granny's rear axle. I do have lots of details to take care of in the meantime but the car is getting really close.
#266
details
Got some more parts. for the swaybar I got a Racing Beat 2nd gen bar with their endlinks. installation was a snap even with my setup. much beefier than the original bar looks nice and tidy in there. still waiting on my front coil overs from ISC. The brakes are all done and just waiting their turn to go on the car.
#267
Ball joints.
Well, ran into another snag. This is literally the first time I've had the entire suspension tight. Both ball joints are bad. Mine do not appear to be removable. From the search I did it seems my lower control arm needs to be replaced when the ballpoints go bad. I've seen earlier 2nd gen with a replaceable balljoint. Time to search the site for second gen stuff. If anyone knows this stuff please let me know.
#268
Village Idiot
iTrader: (8)
I'm pretty certain you can press out the old ball joint and press in a new one. I think Mazda wanted ppl to think they had to buy a whole new control arm. It's recommended to tack weld the new ball joint in place - although there is a fair amount of debate over that one on this forum.
Personally, a tack weld is cheap insurance so I plan to do it when I replace my ball joints here in the near future... An ounce of prevention.
Personally, a tack weld is cheap insurance so I plan to do it when I replace my ball joints here in the near future... An ounce of prevention.
#270
Balljoints
From what I've found out the later 2nd gen control arms have non-replaceable ball joints. They are swaged in. Plus the arms are aluminum. So looks like I can use the earlier arms with replaceable balljoints. Now I just have to find a pair. Hopefully I can get my expensive urethane bushings off.
#272
Arms
I found a pair of earlier arms. hopefully I won't have any problems getting my new bushings off my present arms. The fun part is going to be getting my knuckles off the balljoint stud. Looks to be pretty rusted in. I started soaking it with PB blaster. Guess if that doesn't do it then I'll apply heat. Not like I'm going to hurt the balljoint. So now everything will be new.
#274
Never Follow
iTrader: (18)
He has an FC subframe in here guys, it's not the same setup ball joint wise as the FB's. I agree though, with FB ball joints you definitely want to tach weld them in there.
Frankenmazda - Sorry I didn't see your above posts earlier to save you some headache, but as you found out the S5, 89-91 arms have non replaceable ball joints, the S4 86-88 arms are much preferred because you can just bolt new ball joints in. Looks like you got it covered now.
As for getting the spindle/knuckle off of there, yeah pb blaster is your friend - once you get the small retaining bolt out (heat is also good here) then you can use a chisel or large flathead screwdriver to spread it open a bit then use a punch or something to hit the ball joint of of the spindle. Can be a pain but usually it comes out lol
Those T3 coil overs are sexy aren't they? I love mine - what spring rate did you go with? Oh and I've been meaning to mention - raising the FC's subframe up into the frame rails (I went with 1" so I could still clear the stock hood) makes a very noticeable improvement in the cars overall "happiness" for lack of a better term. Front end feels more planted, and roll center is definitely closer to where it should be. Well worth the effort (so much so that I ended up doing the same thing on all 3 of my FB's lol - I'm crazy) Just wanted to mention it - you should be quite happy once you get yours on the road.
Frankenmazda - Sorry I didn't see your above posts earlier to save you some headache, but as you found out the S5, 89-91 arms have non replaceable ball joints, the S4 86-88 arms are much preferred because you can just bolt new ball joints in. Looks like you got it covered now.
As for getting the spindle/knuckle off of there, yeah pb blaster is your friend - once you get the small retaining bolt out (heat is also good here) then you can use a chisel or large flathead screwdriver to spread it open a bit then use a punch or something to hit the ball joint of of the spindle. Can be a pain but usually it comes out lol
Those T3 coil overs are sexy aren't they? I love mine - what spring rate did you go with? Oh and I've been meaning to mention - raising the FC's subframe up into the frame rails (I went with 1" so I could still clear the stock hood) makes a very noticeable improvement in the cars overall "happiness" for lack of a better term. Front end feels more planted, and roll center is definitely closer to where it should be. Well worth the effort (so much so that I ended up doing the same thing on all 3 of my FB's lol - I'm crazy) Just wanted to mention it - you should be quite happy once you get yours on the road.
Last edited by 82transam; 04-11-17 at 08:47 AM.
#275
He has an FC subframe in here guys, it's not the same setup ball joint wise as the FB's. I agree though, with FB ball joints you definitely want to tach weld them in there.
Frankenmazda - Sorry I didn't see your above posts earlier to save you some headache, but as you found out the S5, 89-91 arms have non replaceable ball joints, the S4 86-88 arms are much preferred because you can just bolt new ball joints in. Looks like you got it covered now.
As for getting the spindle/knuckle off of there, yeah pb blaster is your friend - once you get the small retaining bolt out (heat is also good here) then you can use a chisel or large flathead screwdriver to spread it open a bit then use a punch or something to hit the ball joint of of the spindle. Can be a pain but usually it comes out lol
Those T3 coil overs are sexy aren't they? I love mine - what spring rate did you go with? Oh and I've been meaning to mention - raising the FC's subframe up into the frame rails (I went with 1" so I could still clear the stock hood) makes a very noticeable improvement in the cars overall "happiness" for lack of a better term. Front end feels more planted, and roll center is definitely closer to where it should be. Well worth the effort (so much so that I ended up doing the same thing on all 3 of my FB's lol - I'm crazy) Just wanted to mention it - you should be quite happy once you get yours on the road.
Frankenmazda - Sorry I didn't see your above posts earlier to save you some headache, but as you found out the S5, 89-91 arms have non replaceable ball joints, the S4 86-88 arms are much preferred because you can just bolt new ball joints in. Looks like you got it covered now.
As for getting the spindle/knuckle off of there, yeah pb blaster is your friend - once you get the small retaining bolt out (heat is also good here) then you can use a chisel or large flathead screwdriver to spread it open a bit then use a punch or something to hit the ball joint of of the spindle. Can be a pain but usually it comes out lol
Those T3 coil overs are sexy aren't they? I love mine - what spring rate did you go with? Oh and I've been meaning to mention - raising the FC's subframe up into the frame rails (I went with 1" so I could still clear the stock hood) makes a very noticeable improvement in the cars overall "happiness" for lack of a better term. Front end feels more planted, and roll center is definitely closer to where it should be. Well worth the effort (so much so that I ended up doing the same thing on all 3 of my FB's lol - I'm crazy) Just wanted to mention it - you should be quite happy once you get yours on the road.
I do like the T3 coilovers. They are not cheap though but they should work pretty well. now I just have to get the Granny's axle to put them on. I have to weld on the watts link arms to center the new 8.8 but the rest of this build is pretty much bolt in. never thought I would get to the point where I was waiting on parts!
Last edited by Frankenmazda; 04-11-17 at 11:11 AM. Reason: ADDED PICTURE