4-Rotor FB Build (side ports!!)
01-28-12, 10:14 AM
#51
Eh, good enough.
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I wonder what the fate of this engine would be?
I would imagine efi, however figuring out how to run a 4 rotor 12A on two IDAs would be pretty sweet, haha.
I would imagine efi, however figuring out how to run a 4 rotor 12A on two IDAs would be pretty sweet, haha.
01-28-12, 12:17 PM
#52
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the peripheral 12A scoot engine is run by 2 power FC's. it passes smog too. its from 2005? 2006?
the first semi assembled engine pic i posted is from the 2011 Tokyo auto show, so its NEW.
the first semi assembled engine pic i posted is from the 2011 Tokyo auto show, so its NEW.
01-28-12, 01:39 PM
#53
I need a new user title
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That's the part I was surprised about. How did they manage to pass smog with a peripheral port rotary, anyway? I know at one point they had it set up so they could cut fuel to two of the rotors during cruise to save on gas. Maybe that allowed it to pass the sniffer test, too.
01-28-12, 02:46 PM
#54
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That's the part I was surprised about. How did they manage to pass smog with a peripheral port rotary, anyway? I know at one point they had it set up so they could cut fuel to two of the rotors during cruise to save on gas. Maybe that allowed it to pass the sniffer test, too.
02-04-12, 02:06 AM
#56
Some progress to report. The side plates are ported about 90%. Now I need to start thinking about paint colors.
Black and silver? Cast coat iron? Vicuna?
I have a local guy wanting me to go Rainbow Dash on this. He's a real fan of the show.
I can do whatever color combo. Help me choose!
Black and silver? Cast coat iron? Vicuna?
I have a local guy wanting me to go Rainbow Dash on this. He's a real fan of the show.
I can do whatever color combo. Help me choose!
02-04-12, 11:40 AM
#57
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I'd go with fairly neutral colors, so it'll look good in whatever car it ends up finding a permanent home in. Black and silver is always a good choice.
02-04-12, 12:34 PM
#58
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02-04-12, 02:23 PM
#60
Wow, three against one! Keep the ideas coming!
Hey Percent, remember when I ask what colors I should use on the GLC's engine and you recommended black and silver? But then I went with orange and silver. It turned out stunningly good looking in daylight. Glad I went for it.
I'll save the cast coat iron for the REW/T2 hybrid. I bet it'll look sharp. But this 4 rotor is already over the top. Might as well make it official.
Hey Percent, remember when I ask what colors I should use on the GLC's engine and you recommended black and silver? But then I went with orange and silver. It turned out stunningly good looking in daylight. Glad I went for it.
I'll save the cast coat iron for the REW/T2 hybrid. I bet it'll look sharp. But this 4 rotor is already over the top. Might as well make it official.
02-06-12, 01:22 PM
#64
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02-06-12, 02:04 PM
#65
Bubble Gum's Good
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This was just posted on jalopnik. Might be old hat but its pretty fitting
http://jalopnik.com/5882593/the-ten-...time/gallery/7
glew
http://jalopnik.com/5882593/the-ten-...time/gallery/7
glew
02-07-12, 01:41 AM
#68
R5! I'm in love! (insert heart smilie)
Wait, is it nitrided? I see a factory drilled/tapped for oil pressure hole with a BSP pipe plug. Maybe it's a 1980 CA smog thing?
And just in case you're wondering, it should possible to port NO ports to 74 spec closing timing. I just did that on my GSL-SE primaries and I know they share the same port specs. But I've never ported an NO before so I don't know where casting ends and water begins.
The cast coat iron paint you have is a different brand than mine. I bet they're a similar color.
I see you went for a factoryish look by masking the freeze plugs. Housings left unpainted?
Wait, is it nitrided? I see a factory drilled/tapped for oil pressure hole with a BSP pipe plug. Maybe it's a 1980 CA smog thing?
And just in case you're wondering, it should possible to port NO ports to 74 spec closing timing. I just did that on my GSL-SE primaries and I know they share the same port specs. But I've never ported an NO before so I don't know where casting ends and water begins.
The cast coat iron paint you have is a different brand than mine. I bet they're a similar color.
I see you went for a factoryish look by masking the freeze plugs. Housings left unpainted?
02-07-12, 01:22 PM
#72
You're talking about the top one, right under the oil pedestal, with the hex plug in it, right? To be honest, I've never even checked where it goes - - I'm pretty sure all the R5 rears I've had were set the same way (will check; have pix and such of all).
As far as I know, there is no CA-specific variant of the rear plate - only the mid-plate with the EGR passage.
By the way, I have side-by-side pix of R5 and Y front-plates now; they actually vary quite a bit in total iron involved. The Y plates look to probably be noticeable lighter, maybe as much as a pound or two. Less 'extra' iron on them.
Plan is to polish the housings and clear coat them. May have to forgo it due to time constraints. Polishing the front cover has turned out to be a lot more work time-wise than I expected, but once you start one, you pretty much have to finish.
Jeff, speaking of freeze plugs (not to hijack your thread, but...); do you ever replace yours on rebuilds?
I've never had to, and have never had one leak, but one of the under-the-front-cover freeze plugs on my replacement front iron looks to have maybe shown a little rust. Might just be from imperfect drying after cleaning the iron, but I'm a bit paranoid about it. Losing water containment into the oil is not something I want to risk.
But I must admit to never having had to replace any freeze plugs - - I don't know how they are removed or installed!
02-07-12, 06:36 PM
#74
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By the way, I have side-by-side pix of R5 and Y front-plates now; they actually vary quite a bit in total iron involved. The Y plates look to probably be noticeable lighter, maybe as much as a pound or two. Less 'extra' iron on them.
Jeff, speaking of freeze plugs (not to hijack your thread, but...); do you ever replace yours on rebuilds?
Jeff, speaking of freeze plugs (not to hijack your thread, but...); do you ever replace yours on rebuilds?
the only freeze plug i've ever replaced is actually that one under the front cover, if it does go, it puts water in the oil, and its basically the only way to do that. a new plug is cheap from mazda, i'd say $2, so it'll be $15....