just swap the stud off the old master.

 

Dp

 

Wow 5 years. Subd

 

SHINY!

 

Sooooo pretty!

 

 

Yeah. I assume it's "the" new one. I had to wait for like a month for them to make it

Little update:

I replaced the oil cooler mounts, put the oil cooler lines on (RB stainless braided), identified the mystery wire on the engine harness (sub zero sensor, unneeded AFAIK), made a water temp sensor connector out of an alligator clip, connected the battery to starter cable and starter switch cable, connected all the dash gauge sensor wires, connected the spark plug wires, tensioned the fan/alt belt, and put in the radiator fan and shroud. I found the reverse light switch but haven't connected it yet (had to validate the wire colors against the FSM).

Besides that, I have left:

Change the oil, drain the fuel, replace the fuel filter, connect prop shaft, connect fuel lines, fill radiator, tuck misc unneeded emission control wires.

Silly PO cut one of the exhaust mount donuts, which wasn't a cheap part. At least they only cut one. It's only a few easy bolts to get the whole exhaust donut hook bracket off wtf. It's an 85 car and it came with a FMOC so I assume the PO swapped it in. They used a crush washer on one of the oil cooler fittings and really torqued on the one without the washer. That was harrowing to remove. I wouldn't be surprised if I see leaks out of some hairline cracks. But I do have a spare oil cooler.

At some point I'm going to need to address the surface rust that resulted from the brake and clutch hydraulics leaking on the body in side the engine bay.

 

Well, if there's a drain at the bottom of '84/85 tanks, somebody put a '81-83 tank in my '85.

 

like that fact that you are using the nikki

 

Man, this car is coming along nicely! You've done an excellent job with it!!

 

Update:

Fuel drained, new fuel filter. I put a fresh gallon in to try and run it. Checked that fuel comes out when I run the pump, ran it until no more junk came out.

Meanwhile, I changed the engine oil. It had like 30 seconds on it? 5 years ago. And filled the radiator and overflow tank with fresh antifreeze+distilled water.

Turned it around in the garage. Those harbor freight $7.99 moving dollies were handy.

starting to move it


full *** sideways


Tried to start it but the starter I have in it is uncooperative, even after a flogging. I hear relay and I get a dip in voltage so I am pretty sure the wiring to the starter is doing its job. So maybe I just go to Autozone and order a new reman. I don't think it has a reason not to start once I turn the key. I've turned it over a hundred times by hand with a wrench to get oil up in it so it's go time. Anyway, I accidentally filled the bowls with E15 so now it's a race with the ethanol varnish goblins.

 

It runs

holy crap the rb system is loud

Turns out I was missing the ground from the engine. With that on, it would go.

 

Got it to idle at a reasonable pace, about 1300. Seems to enjoy throttle, too.

 

 

sounds like there's a massive exhaust leak. is it straight pipe between header and muffler?

 

Front to back header presilencer and muffler. The intake and hogged out carb probably doesn't help the sound much?

I poked around the header area to feel for obvious leaks and didn't notice anything obvious. I'll check everything again next time I have daylight.

Other things that came up:
- oil leak at one (or both) front mount cooler fittings - expected that, didn't tighten them much
- oil leak at the output of the trans - I have the prop shaft sitting next to the car now, maybe I install that and seal it up that way? Or maybe there's trouble with the trans I have on now.

 

I installed the prop shaft, slightly tightened the oil line fitting to the oil cooler stopping the leak there, significantly tightened all of the exhaust flange fasteners, and found the wiring issue that was keeping all the warning lights on when running.

Got up under the car and looked for exhaust leaks, couldn't feel any drafts at the header-presilencer, presilencer-pipe, or pipe-muffler flanges. Listening for the source of most of the noise, it's _in_ the presilencer. The car doesn't sound nearly as loud idling in the driveway with the hood down. I think the garage walls just echo the noise around.

Apparently I have two large-flange prop shafts. I thought I had a large and a small-flange. That sucks because my GSL rear axle setup is for the small-flange shaft.

 

Since last update:

- drove it into my driveway and back after installing the shifter, so it goes into first and reverse at least
- put it back up on blocks to dig into the rear brakes after noticing that one of the rear ones won't disengage and the other won't engage
- found continuity for my oil pressure and water temp gauges - the X-08 connector needed to be wiggled a bit

I am going to just fix the drums for now even though I have a GSL axle; I still need to get the calipers rebuilt and find a small-flange prop shaft. And it will be nice to button up this car and call it "done" for a minute and put stuff away before creating another project for myself.

Not sure what I'll do about the X-08. All the contacts are pretty corroded so I don't really trust it to keep a consistent circuit while driving. I wanted to keep factory connectors where I could, but I might just splice this into a new connector with better terminals.

 

Google Eastern Beaver. Company that supplies connector bodies and male/female terminals that will allow you to replicate factory installation. If your connector(plastic) is reusable you can source exact replacement terminals from them.
Their core business is electrical restoration/upgrade parts and supplies for early Japanese motorcycles,which share same connectors/terminals found on 1st gens.
Have dealt with them many times,shipping is prompt and owner is a good guy and easy to deal with. Go on their website,find what you need and order. The owner will call you and advise best way to get what you need for lowest shipped price.

 

amazing! https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec_...090/ts090.html

 

Yer welcome.

 

UPdate! I managed to change out the brake cylinder on the side that wasn't disengaging. The pads are plenty thick so I'm putting things back together with just a new cylinder there. Gonna bleed em and see where I end up on the other side. If it engages I'll call it a win. The other side looks better than the side I changed did... And anyway these brakes are temporary. Hopefully I have them changed to discs by next summer.

The clearances for my tools to get the pieces off behind the backing plate in the wheel well were, uh, tight. This is probably where nicer tools would help. And it is like a rubix cube getting the things back together. I got both return springs in FINALLY but (oh no not finally) the parking brake strut fell off sometime between not having return springs on and having them on. So I had to do it again.

Looked like the cylinder had never been changed.

 

Drove it around the neighborhood. Drives better than I expected. The rear shocks are not great, but it's nice to drive an RX again.

The clutch is light as a feather. Last car I drove with a manual was a 4.6L mustang with a cable clutch.

 

Yes, the helper spring in the clutch pedal mechanism of the 84-85 cars makes the pedal feel really light. The previous years only had a return spring. I like the 84-85 best.

 

Ah. I seemed to remember the 83 having a heavier push.