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The rear hook goes to the next bolt up. That bolt should be longer so the hook and a nut can fit.
Yes, I understand that something got sheared off here. I know exactly where the hook should be.
I still need to find a rear hoisting solution though. I currently have a trans bolt going through the backside of the iron, fully covering the width of the iron and just barely not threading into the trans. I am planning to route the chain through the hook that you see in the photo. I know this looks sketchy. Do you guys think this will be fine?
I am deciding to tear this 12a down in my living room, as it is very cold outside.
I removed the alternator, pressure plate and clutch. I'm thinking its worth it to just grab a new clutch to toss in even if this one has life left? Let me know what you guys think based on the pics.
I noticed marks on the pressure plate, but it still feels quite smooth. The flash also makes it looks worse than it is. Hopefully just normal wear. Doesn't really look this bad in person. Brake cleaner?
I think it's one of those situations where "if you're in there you might as well replace it" type thing. If it was me I'd probably upgrade to a lightweight flywheel and a better clutch. It's cheaper/easier to do it now that it's apart vs. doing it again x miles down the road.
Put down some big sheets of cardboard on the floor, it may be drained as much as possible but there will still be globs of oil and coolant hiding until parts are separated.
Put down some big sheets of cardboard on the floor, it may be drained as much as possible but there will still be globs of oil and coolant hiding until parts are separated.
+1 to that. There will probably be another half liter of fluids that will spill out. Get a cheap oil drip pain from the store, trust me on this. lol
Did you remove the drain plug on the drivers side rear iron lower? It's a small bolt that will remove the coolant from the block. I's get a big stoarge tube and put under it.
Fun story. After I got out of the Navy in 1989, I lived in an apartment with my brother. I was restoring a 1980 RX-7 in January and lived in Connecticut at the time. I put a space heater in the outside patio storage closet to make a paint both.
I think it's one of those situations where "if you're in there you might as well replace it" type thing. If it was me I'd probably upgrade to a lightweight flywheel and a better clutch. It's cheaper/easier to do it now that it's apart vs. doing it again x miles down the road.
Totally. Any community recommendations for a solid budget, but great lightweight flywheel + clutch combo?
Put down some big sheets of cardboard on the floor, it may be drained as much as possible but there will still be globs of oil and coolant hiding until parts are separated.
Gotcha, I've got tarps layered on the ground now with some cardboard as well. I have dealt with more coolant and oil coming out as I rotated it and took the oil pan off today. I've just got an insane amount of shitty microfibers soaking up what comes out + collecting it in my HF buckets lol. Thx for the advice
Did you remove the drain plug on the drivers side rear iron lower? It's a small bolt that will remove the coolant from the block. I's get a big stoarge tube and put under it.
Fun story. After I got out of the Navy in 1989, I lived in an apartment with my brother. I was restoring a 1980 RX-7 in January and lived in Connecticut at the time. I put a space heater in the outside patio storage closet to make a paint both.
Yes I opened that up and drained it but replaced the plug, so I'm sure there is a bit lurking still.
That's a cool story, and awesome solution haha. The space heater I am using is definitely coming in handy.
Super small progress today, removed oil pan, and now have the motor lying flat on the ground ( hardwood + tarps )
Need to clean up some oil, then will attempt to crack flywheel bolt and take off oil cooler
I was able to borrow an impact from a friend to get the flywheel nut off. I broke it, and the big front cover bolt free using the correct flywheel stopper tool that you guys directed me to earlier.
I also removed the oil cooler line and water pump, as well as all of the front cover bolts.
I think I am missing something as the front cover isn't seeming to want to come off. I am pretty tired though and am going to call it done for today.
Housings:
If my eyes aren't deceiving me, these rotor housings look really good? Please let me know if y'all think I'm good to run these. I just did a very light wipe of a microfiber before taking pics. I will of course use the clearance tool, but I don't see any chipping at all.
Rotors:
I haven't cleaned them yet but off the bat they look great with no scarring/issues that I can immediately see.
Rebuild Kit:
I want to get a kit that will last a long time, and also minimize stress/issues while building the motor. I know I will need to resize/sand the rotor seals if I go with Atkins. Any other suggestions for a first time rebuild keeping the 12a stock?
I would call that chipping usable in today's standards. Just make sure there are no raised edges.
It's hard to tell in the second image, is that gouging near the exhaust port?
It seems to be reasonably far away from the exhaust port. I assume it would be worse if it was closer for some reason?
Also I know this is probably a silly/impossible question, but would you say you could give an estimate for the # of miles you would expect from this chippage compared to fresher housings? Can I still get to 100k on one rebuild with these housings?
Anyone's guess on miles, but 100k is pushing it for any rebuild. It would have to be babied. I wouldn't expect 100K from any rebuild with used parts. You'd need nice irons and new oil control rings and side seals.
