1979 rx-7 sa22c putting gsl parts in it...
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
For spark...
Remove the ballast resisters on the driver side shock tower and bypass them by joining the ballast + and - wires together for each. Then you just have the two 12v + wires under each coil, a - wire (for tach signal) and then you just create new wires going from the - and + on each ignitor to their respective coil. Dont forget to disable the part time trailing by finding the relay behind the battery and unplugging it.
Search for the mazspeed.com site for a tutorial on emissions removal and coil wiring.
Remove the ballast resisters on the driver side shock tower and bypass them by joining the ballast + and - wires together for each. Then you just have the two 12v + wires under each coil, a - wire (for tach signal) and then you just create new wires going from the - and + on each ignitor to their respective coil. Dont forget to disable the part time trailing by finding the relay behind the battery and unplugging it.
Search for the mazspeed.com site for a tutorial on emissions removal and coil wiring.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
Make sure you are getting 12v to the wire you connect to the +. On the resisters I dont remember if there is - and + or just + The yellow green actually connects to the rear coil - on SA. Or at least on my 79 and 80 it does.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
Mazspeed is down apparently. Try again later. Its been about 7 years since I did my last points to electronic conversion so sorry I cant remember what wires and all go where.
imma try the negitive off the altinator and see if it works
Ok so lets lstart by saying that when i test for voltage. Black on ground(battery) and i touch coil + and - they both are close to 12v then i touch the end plugs to the ignitors and the are close to 12v too but when i touch the ignitors theres nothing. So tell me what u think? I did put the ground on the block of motor for the radiator fan, will that cuase the problem? Ill add the extra wires in a little cus i just think i have a short of something cus i did have car running befor and the engan fuse hasent blown cus i tested the fuse and accedently blowen it cus i put wire in wrong. So ya thats all fixed and so i do have a fuze on and before coils. So i dont need to add the extra wires and fuses but ill try to see it it starts at least.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
Im drawing a blank for the ground for the radiator fan. There is a 4-6 gauge battery cable grounded to the top driver side teansmission bolt. Thats it. The battery cable going to the starter is a +. The condensors are grounded to the engine (there's one on the alternator,distributor, and emissions rack I believe, but they are technically a + wire.
you should only have 5 wires going to your distributor. + and - for each ignitor and one for the condensor. The only wires required for the car to run right will be a pair of black and white wires for the choke and check relay,a thick + for the alternator, one wire for the float bowl vent solenoid, and one wire for the coolant sensor for the choke magnet.
you should only have 5 wires going to your distributor. + and - for each ignitor and one for the condensor. The only wires required for the car to run right will be a pair of black and white wires for the choke and check relay,a thick + for the alternator, one wire for the float bowl vent solenoid, and one wire for the coolant sensor for the choke magnet.
Im drawing a blank for the ground for the radiator fan. There is a 4-6 gauge battery cable grounded to the top driver side teansmission bolt. Thats it. The battery cable going to the starter is a +. The condensors are grounded to the engine (there's one on the alternator,distributor, and emissions rack I believe, but they are technically a + wire.
you should only have 5 wires going to your distributor. + and - for each ignitor and one for the condensor. The only wires required for the car to run right will be a pair of black and white wires for the choke and check relay,a thick + for the alternator, one wire for the float bowl vent solenoid, and one wire for the coolant sensor for the choke magnet.
you should only have 5 wires going to your distributor. + and - for each ignitor and one for the condensor. The only wires required for the car to run right will be a pair of black and white wires for the choke and check relay,a thick + for the alternator, one wire for the float bowl vent solenoid, and one wire for the coolant sensor for the choke magnet.
So how i have this wired is a new wire from coils to one wire (2-1) to disrtibitor thos spit (1-3) 2 to the ignitors and on condensor i do have power from harnes going to coils. I think something shorted in this wire but i have seperate (-) wire going to each other leadung to leading trailing to trailing.
Ok is it bad to wire all 3 + wires(ignitors(2) and condensor) to on wire then to fuse then to altinator? As its own power to distribitor, then on the harness i will have 2 fuses added right before coils on + side then 2 seperite wires - going right ignitor. So trailing to trailing leading to leading. Once im done ill try to start and ill show pics. Let me know what u think.. i figured out that i had shorted it once on accedent and i blew fuse under dash and i blew the ignitor also so i changed it.





