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What does the Turbosmart actuator do differently than the EFR canisters? Slightly better response? Controls boost better? I want the ability to raise the boost higher than 15 on occasion. First, I my throw the Turbosmart MBC back in just to make sure the boost actually will go higher, and that I don't have a deeper underlying problem. I'm starting to have my doubts that I can make the powerfc precontrol setup work at all. Seems using precontrol with an EFR gets mixed reviews at best. I'm leaning toward a standalone boost control setup of some sort. How would the IWG75 you recommended plus something like a eboost street, utilizing the EFR solenoid work? Assuming one got it set up correctly, my porting, restrictive exhaust and water meth, it'd be nice to be able to turn up the boost a couple psi for fun once in a while.
The medium actuator cracks around 7/8 psi, while the turbosmart will crack at whatever PSI springs you put in it. So if you get the turbosmart with 14.5 psi( default combo) you will get 14.5 psi all the time. That will be your base boost pressure, then you can use the turbosmart to raise it above this( using the EFR solenoid).
Loved the build thread - had a nice long read. Had a something to maybe add into the mix as I've seen cars with the RB exhaust struggle to make power on a dyno even with all the name brand parts you can find... GReddy v-mount...HKS T04Z etc etc... Happy to see djseven has a good benchmark on the same dyno. Perhaps find a better free flowing exhaust that won't compromise your sound quality inside the car will get you closer to your goal?
Loved the build thread - had a nice long read. Had a something to maybe add into the mix as I've seen cars with the RB exhaust struggle to make power on a dyno even with all the name brand parts you can find... GReddy v-mount...HKS T04Z etc etc... Happy to see djseven has a good benchmark on the same dyno. Perhaps find a better free flowing exhaust that won't compromise your sound quality inside the car will get you closer to your goal?
I hear and respect everyone's thoughts on the restrictiveness of the RB/pettit catback, and while it may be a contributing factor, I'm going to address my boost control issue first, probably with the medium canister and the turbosmart boost tee, then maybe the IWG75 if I don't get satisfactory results. since we're going into the summer and my setup is a bit restrictive, I don't expect any creep issues. Secondly my oil leakage, which I hope was just a worn out dipstick and looks like it was overfilled when I had them change the oil at the dyno tune session and lastly, a newly discovered high IAT temps and heat soak problem, and subsequent power loss and timing being pulled by the powerFC when I was doing some roll racing with a buddy this weekend. Still beat him though-
. I'm also thinking my water meth system was setup weird by zach. I think that contributed to the high IATs I was seeing roll racing. He had my controller not coming on till 12psi (max on the AEM controller), and full psi at set at 15. In the install manual AEM recommends I think 1/4 of your max psi as start, so I compromised and turned it back to about 6psi. Last but not least, I'm not totally sold on the target a/frs he shot for. He tunes turbo rotaries in the 12s in boost, but my thought process has always been that you should be tuned in the 11s in boost. IDK. I've always heard you usually have a huge laundry list of things to address when you leave a dyno tuning session. So true.
AFRs at 12??? That's a terrifying thought. I have a half-bridge and at WOT gives me the magic 10.9~11.1 (no meth....if I did, I would have 550+rwhp to manage....) I asked for a safe tune for track use too, so I have lots more to play with. If you were to tell me the car was N/A rotary, then a 12.5~13 AFR would make a lot more sense.
Running the car that lean should increase your EGT a lot. Running a richer setup will reduce the heat your car is making. High IATs are coming from your large SMIC setup... I believe I have a similar one as you. Looks like the old GodSpeed style ones with the notches on the sides. At speed they should reduce, but in traffic I was seeing 140F at the high end in summer. Recommendation, for myself as well, is a v-mount.
And on a side note, 400 rwhp will pull a stock GTR at 120+mph... all about weight!
I'd love to go vmount. The pricetag on a good vmount kit is just not justifiable until I've thoroughly given my current setup a shot. Godspeed you say? Interesting. Had never considered my setup may not be a true pettit cc3. Agreed on power to weight ratios. 400hp in a 2800lb car is supercar territory. I plan to address the a/f rs of the tune also. Will probably shoot for tuning 1 point richer in boost.
I've always heard you usually have a huge laundry list of things to address when you leave a dyno tuning session. So true.
Im not sure this should be true. If you do the work up front, you should be bringing a prepped and ready car to a tuning session. That's why a lot of tuners will not tune a car built by the owner. So many things to go wrong.
Don't get me wrong, a shop build can go wrong to, and issues like boost control definitely show themselves once on a dyno, but mechanically a car should be well sorted before ever pushing it and paying for a tune.
@aplscrambles If you pull out the Intercooler and check the bottom of it, there might be a logo or branding of some sort on it. But completely agree on the price of a vmount is substantial. Although I`ve been contemplating a custom setup to reduce the overall cost and make my own air trays etc.
Im not sure this should be true. If you do the work up front, you should be bringing a prepped and ready car to a tuning session. That's why a lot of tuners will not tune a car built by the owner. So many things to go wrong.
Don't get me wrong, a shop build can go wrong to, and issues like boost control definitely show themselves once on a dyno, but mechanically a car should be well sorted before ever pushing it and paying for a tune.
Well, sure, to an extent, but it's a catch-22. You can research and build and re-research and rebuild and change your setup and tweak your setup until you're blue in the face, but you can't properly run a new setup hard to test all your systems until it's tuned safe enough to flog it. Unfortunately that is the point where my boost leaks then boost control issues showed up. Just the natural order of things. I'm going to take a look at the tune and try some work on my boost control among other things this weekend, Secondly, I've seen some of the cars built by some shops, both in person, and here on the forum, I wouldn't trust them to make it to the grocery store. I prefer to do all that is within my expertise myself. Also, from a budgeting standpoint I'm sure shop builds can get out of hand quickly. Glad there are some shops that will accomodate that and still tune your car.
@aplscrambles If you pull out the Intercooler and check the bottom of it, there might be a logo or branding of some sort on it. But completely agree on the price of a vmount is substantial. Although I`ve been contemplating a custom setup to reduce the overall cost and make my own air trays etc.
No markings whatsoever that I recall on the bottom of my intercooler. Definitely if you have the skills to do your own fab and ducting, go for a cheaper VMIC setup. For me, It would have to be greddy or nothing.
I have the same turbo as you IWG 8374 .92 that I have not installed yet. Hmmm, boost creep. Following
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...check-1092302/
That's the thread you need to look into if you are concerned about boost creep with the 8374. TL; DR version of that thread- free flowing exhaust and street (or bigger) porting is probably going to creep somewhat especailly on cold days. My problem is pretty much the opposite right now, though my boost has crept up to 20+ on a super cold day on a previous fuel system and mbc (nominally 15psi setting)
No. Bought an IWG75 single port labelled as the 14.5 canister, had absurdly slow spool and about 6psi max boost IIRC. Put the medium BW canister back in and went right back to ~13 psi where addicted set it. Not sure what is going on there. Maybe it shipped with the wrong spring installed. I'm over it. Talked to Bryan at Rotorsports, and leaning toward doing a street tune with probably the medium canister and the turbosmart boost tee. We had this setup working previously with a pretty solid 15 psi setting. Should've left well enough alone.
On another note. AEM sucks. A second replacement water meth controller failed. Got lucky for the 3rd time and didn't blow my motor. Ordered a snow performance vc-50, gauge type water meth controller, should be here tomorrow. Maybe try to install it this weekend. Got a local fab shop that is supposed to be fabbing a hot side pipe with a vband connection to the integrated vband on my turbo. Maybe a wiggins clamp on the intercooler side. Hopefully it turns out decent, things haven't been going so swell with the build lately. Did get to take advantage of the nice weather on sunday and go for a drive with a couple buds in the mountains. Car ran ok, just too lean under boost and the water meth system was fucked up, so I had to take it easy. Brakes, suspension and tires performed great though. Had no trouble keeping up with these two.
Last edited by aplscrambles; 05-06-20 at 08:47 PM.
When you installed the turbosmart unit, was this bypassing the ecu control? How much boost do you see with no ecu control on the medium actuator?
That is the correct part number from turbosmart, and I've never seen one come with the wrong spring. If you have it off the car now, do yourself a favor and open it up. If it indeed does have the correct 14 psi springs, this would indicate there is a boost leak somewhere. It could be the BW BOV FYI( and you pretty much would never know it).
No, I did not by pass the powerFC. The EFR solenoid was still plugged into precontrol, with duty set at about 60 I think. No ECU control of the medium actuator I think netted us not much of a decrease in boost leading me to believe PFC boost control isn't working properly. They did a boost leak test on the dyno at addicted, but who knows... I can test the BW medium canister with precontrol unplugged this weekend and see what happens. How do you open the IWG75 to check the spring? Directions say clamp it in a vise, wtf? looks to me like it is supposed to have some kind of spanner to fit the notches.
Yes they come with a spanner tool, and yes use a vice with two piece of wood to clamp the base( under the silver locking collar). Pretty sure turbosmart has videos on youtube also.
I’m not sure if using the precontrol side of things makes a difference (but duty for it is substantially different especially when talking about controlling the twins) as opposed to the wastegate side. Here’s a thread from a smart guy on how he set it up and how his stuff works.
I’m not sure if using the precontrol side of things makes a difference (but duty for it is substantially different especially when talking about controlling the twins) as opposed to the wastegate side. Here’s a thread from a smart guy on how he set it up and how his stuff works.
Hope this helps.
Matt
I've read through that thread many times trying to grasp things. I think at first I had a combination of issues, from a large boost leak in my hotside pipe, to a malfunctioning and improperly set water meth controller, but I think the main problem, at least the conclusion I've come to, is that using duty on the pfc precontrol plug through an efr solenoid to control boost does not work right; they don't jive for lack of better terms, A standard 3 port or 4 port should work ok, but I'm done with pfc boost control. A MBC or a standalone boost controller of some sort seems a much better option for better boost control. I'll be running a turbosmart boost tee for the time being, and for the long term, leaning toward the innovate boost control/wideband gauge for simplicity and to match my other gauges. A haltech elite and a decent harness is somewhere in my future when I can swing it.
Yes they come with a spanner tool, and yes use a vice with two piece of wood to clamp the base( under the silver locking collar). Pretty sure turbosmart has videos on youtube also.
No they don't come with a spanner unless you include one when people order directly from you? I may take it apart to make certain of the spring if my tuner decides he'd like to try to tune with it.
Looks like 3rd times a charm with my hotside pipe. Fits, doesn't hit the hood, isn't cracked, and doesn't leak. Found a new local fabricator that is bad ***. 2.5" vband welded on Perfect fitment
Also started wiring my new snow water meth controller/gauge to replace the piece of **** AEM controller. Pillar gauges aren't for everyone, but it's in plain sight, not blocking outward visibility, and I'm not a huge fan of the steering column pods, so this should work well.
03-28-20, 10:29 AM
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