Originally Posted by lukes
(Post 11837991)
It's on the back of the compression elbow . I know right... So strange
Sounds like the flutters is because the BOV isn't dumping, which BOV is it? |
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Originally Posted by RuffRx7
(Post 11837992)
Have you checked that it has vacuum? Sounds like the flutters is because the BOV isn't dumping, which BOV is it?
It is a kiwi made BOV which needs to be loosened up . It's definitely not dumping and creating the flutter. I'm trying to figure out the whistle more importantly. |
Best bet is to do a boost leak test and see if you can find the leak, first prize will be to see if there is a boost leak that is creating the whistle sound.
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Hey check this out! Only other car I've actually hear make that noise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocZ0veZjiBs#t=188 That car runs good, I wonder if its actually a problem, maybe just an annoyance? |
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The struggle is real polishing up the manifold!
Cut off all the tabs etc I don't need . Attachment 634378 Attachment 634379 |
The struggle is real hahahaha, you ain't lie'n!
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This could be why my headlights don't work ...
http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/...psackimh2z.jpg There's no plug for this at all. But what's the blue wire? |
Looks like battery power. Out of the main fuse box many of the 10awg blue wires power a relay. The black/white wire is switched ignition.
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Originally Posted by duck91
(Post 11842754)
Looks like battery power. Out of the main fuse box many of the 10awg blue wires power a relay. The black/white wire is switched ignition.
I have no Lights.. Won't pop up or even turn on when the lights are down . |
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Just got to the office and checked my harness. That blue/black wire shouldn't have the wire covered with raychem on it someone tapped into that fuse. No idea what they are using it for. It should be a 40A fuse for B2. Black/White is the retractor, White/Green is EGI and Red is Head. I would check to see what the fuse they put in B2 because it appears to be the wrong colour, at least compared to mine. B2 and B1 (located in the bigger fuse and EGI/Main relay box) seem like a likely culprit since they impact a few different functions. Attachment 634104
I am a bit of the blind leading the blind here since I have not had this problem before. Here is the diagram from the manual as it pertains specifically to the retracting lights. Attachment 634105 You may want to get yourself the full wiring diagram pdf though. |
I suspect that connector plugs into the bottom of the fuse box you are holding the lid for ^^^
if I've trade me stalked you correctly and you're after 3 wire (H4) headlight connectors, they're available from most auto electricians - try Taylor Auto Electrical in New Lynn. After thought: This car hasn't had non pop up lights in it at some stage? Could explain why it has been disconnected and a fusible link fitted to power up the bulbs? Cheers. |
Originally Posted by duck91
(Post 11843081)
Just got to the office and checked my harness. That blue/black wire shouldn't have the wire covered with raychem on it someone tapped into that fuse. No idea what they are using it for. It should be a 40A fuse for B2. Black/White is the retractor, White/Green is EGI and Red is Head. I would check to see what the fuse they put in B2 because it appears to be the wrong colour, at least compared to mine. B2 and B1 (located in the bigger fuse and EGI/Main relay box) seem like a likely culprit since they impact a few different functions. I am a bit of the blind leading the blind here since I have not had this problem before. Here is the diagram from the manual as it pertains specifically to the retracting lights. You may want to get yourself the full wiring diagram pdf though.
Originally Posted by GURLB8
(Post 11843414)
I suspect that connector plugs into the bottom of the fuse box you are holding the lid for ^^^ if I've trade me stalked you correctly and you're after 3 wire (H4) headlight connectors, they're available from most auto electricians - try Taylor Auto Electrical in New Lynn. After thought: This car hasn't had non pop up lights in it at some stage? Could explain why it has been disconnected and a fusible link fitted to power up the bulbs? Cheers.
I dont even have that fuse box at all. Like its completely not there at all. I've got a engine loom on its way. I suspect all I will need when I get the fuse box is to connect power to it. My battery is in the boot so I can't just put it straight on the terminal ! |
I am sort of doing a wire tuck right now too. My engine is in the rear of the car too. I ran 2awg from through the cabin and up to the fuse box that the plug and fuse box belongs too. Sort of making a positive bus then everything in the engine bay gets powered from there.
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Originally Posted by lukes
(Post 11843598)
You stalk my trademe listings huh! Haha anything you like there Bruv?
Lots that I like, not much there within my budget lol! I dont even have that fuse box at all. Like its completely not there at all. I've got a engine loom on its way. I suspect all I will need when I get the fuse box is to connect power to it. My battery is in the boot so I can't just put it straight on the terminal ! Cheers. |
who makes it
Who makes that bov ? got link.
Thanks
Originally Posted by lukes
(Post 11838130)
http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/...srusy5vtn.jpeg
It is a kiwi made BOV which needs to be loosened up . It's definitely not dumping and creating the flutter. I'm trying to figure out the whistle more importantly. |
Originally Posted by joshrulz
(Post 11844718)
Who makes that bov ? got link. Thanks
I think they only made run off them by the looks... Nice Piece tho.. Does it job |
Nice build, some nice parts there!
did you sort the low power/slow turbo response? id expect closer to 450 hp at the hubs (stp) on 17psi, not the 385 hp your dyno sheet shows. there is def a problem there somewhere and when you find it the turbo will spool a lot faster too. the whistling sounds like it coming from the bov its not leaking under boost is it?. if a boost leak isnt the issue then maybe a restricted exhaust? |
Originally Posted by haltechguy
(Post 11850021)
Nice build, some nice parts there! did you sort the low power/slow turbo response? id expect closer to 450 hp at the hubs (stp) on 17psi, not the 385 hp your dyno sheet shows. there is def a problem there somewhere and when you find it the turbo will spool a lot faster too. the whistling sounds like it coming from the bov its not leaking under boost is it?. if a boost leak isnt the issue then maybe a restricted exhaust?
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Maybe purchase a new BOV and see if it fixers your problem or try borrow one and test if it is BOV that's the problem, did you manage to get a boost leak test done?
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If the BOV isnt the problem then maybe try another tuner?
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So I got a second hand HKS elbow without a BOV and the whistle is still there.
Will be putting on a whole new manifold and blocking off the IAC toady. hope for the best. |
I'm at my wits end.
After eliminating the blow off valve , I replaced the upper intake manifold and throttle body with a totally different unit... With a block off plate over the IAC . To my surprise the whistle was still there and the BOV still wouldn't dump. On top of that when I switched the TPS SENSOR back to the old manifold my engine won't idle properly. Do I start looking lower at possible injector boot leaks for the whistle? I turned all of them in there holes and no change in the whistle . The whistle starts at about 2.2 To 3krpm.... Over it.. |
Originally Posted by lukes
(Post 11859308)
I'm at my wits end.
After eliminating the blow off valve , I replaced the upper intake manifold and throttle body with a totally different unit... With a block off plate over the IAC . To my surprise the whistle was still there and the BOV still wouldn't dump. On top of that when I switched the TPS SENSOR back to the old manifold my engine won't idle properly. Do I start looking lower at possible injector boot leaks for the whistle? I turned all of them in there holes and no change in the whistle . The whistle starts at about 2.2 To 3krpm.... Over it.. |
Originally Posted by RuffRx7
(Post 11859311)
Take it to someone to get a boost leak test done on it, could be from anywhere, easiest and cheapest way to find the leak, you can even make a DIY boost leak tester, if it isn't a boost leak then you need to take it to a tuner to check it out.
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