That's awesome progress!

Have you driven the car around with the tune yet?

Dale

 

Thanks Dale. Now I'm just waiting like a girl on prom night for Shane to call back for the big date. He loves playing hard to get... or maybe he's not playing.

I've got a 100-150 hundred miles on it. It's a BLAST!! and disconcerting. and plays by Big Boy Rules! and is obnoxiously LOUD!!!! In other words: me.

 

that is pretty awesome!

Shane's day job is tuning stuff like this https://dinnerwithracers.com/episode...vel-5-special/

 

Congrats on getting it dialed in, ShaneT has shared some excellent advice and info on his Youtube and Instagram channels. Earlier in the thread you posted datalogs showing EngineSpeed bouncing around by 100-200 RPM, how do the logs look after professional diagnostics and calibration work?

 

Hey Scotty, once he removed the faulty Alternate Fuel (i.e Flex-Fuel) input the idle stable down to +/- 20. I honestly couldn't exactly remember, so I offer a recent log from driving around. Some comments:

• The log is from the middle of a 'spirited' drive to get my Sunday pho. The engine at operating temp. Earlier the log with a cool engine (110F) was fluctuating a little more (+/-30-40 rpm).
• Idle settings: Fuel Mixture Aim is .91 lambda, Leading is 20°, Trail is 15°.
• Idle Speed Control (ISC) solenoid is removed. Idle control is via the Idle Ignition Timing function, as evident the 7-ish degree fluctuation.
• I've changed some of the scalings to highlight idle.
• The gradual lambda increase is Motec's long-term trim adjustment towards Fuel Mixture (i.e. target lambda)

MOTEC i2 - Spic Racer idle

The peak to peak datapoints are limited by the 10hz logging freq, so only .1sec resolution. At the 933rpm idle that's very close to the .09 INDIVIDUAL combustion pulses... assuming I didn't fumble to math. Guess I'll go back and increase Engine Speed logging to 100hz so I can see individual 'bangs' throughout the RPM range. The actual ECU logs internally at 200hz, but logging is constrained by the individual Logging License (I have Loggin II @ 100hz) and the immutable internal memory. The things you learn sharing and thinking!

 

So the ECU logs at 200, but you have to pay more for another license to use it?

 

That log looks great, thanks for sharing. 10Hz is not too bad in terms of logging rate, my ECU forces me to pick the same rate for all channels and I have it set to 20Hz to avoid obnoxiously large files / long download times. I like your EGT and Exh Pres sensors, those are hard to add on the stock twins manifold and I'm not ready to spend big bucks on a single setup yet.

I'm interested to know how Shane dialed in the acceleration / transient fueling, if that's something you can share. I was taught to zero it out or use very small amounts until after getting the base fuel map dialed in on the dyno. Some people adjust transient fuel by blipping the throttle in neutral (out of gear), others do it on the dyno, and others only adjust it when driving on the street. Getting transient fueling dialed in is very important for good driving manners.

 

... or it cheaper to not use it if you don't need it.

 

I can see how that sounds unfair, since everyone's hardware has the potential to log at the faster rate. But the alternative would be to have different hardware part numbers and then force people to swap hardware if they want the improved logging. When the choice is framed that way, their software unlock method is probably better for both the manufacturer and the customers.

 

Cant beat it unless you need to really re-check street logs.

 

@scotty305 , regarding your question about transient tuning...
TLDR: Shane set the initial long-term trim (i.e Charge Cooling) and main maps (Engine Efficiency), but didn't turn on the transient enrichment. I assume the latter was due to the partial, low-boost only tune (i.e not final fuel) or simply time constraints. I've subsequently played with the simplest enrichment adjustments (i.e Fuel Film below) with some satisfaction.

The Motec has what I assume is a proprietary way of mapping (i.e. steady state and all transients). I'm unclear how many modern ECUs use similar layers of mapping... but there are ALOT!
.

• Cranking, running, and Idle First things first... though always much less simple than we all hope. See my surging idle challenge above if you have any doubts.
  .
• Charge Cooling
  This is one of the first off-idle fuel map adjustments. After getting the map in the target low rpm/load (~1/3 throttle) cell, you adjust this setting. To me, it's simply long-term fuel trim. This has to be done first because it interacts with ALL of the engine Engine Efficiency (i.e main fuel) map.
  
  Charge Cooling
  .
• Engine Efficiency
  Main fuel (VE) map is next.
  
  Engine Efficiency
  .
• Fuel Film - This is the main transient response enrichment (along with the Manifold Pressure Estimate table). This has a single parameter adjustment in "Simple Mode" that gets you to a 90% solution (my description) and a much more complex "Advanced Mode" to work towards the 99% solution.
  .
• Closed Loop Lambda/Fuel Control - This is perhaps the final control that is layered on top of all of the above. The trick here is that the closer all of the above is tuned, the more precise and useful Closed Loop is.

Like any good ECU, the M1 has versatility and precision. This comes with complexity as evident above. Because time is money and learning to tune has risks, I mitigate both with Shane. Of course, this begs the question... "Is the juice worth the squeeze (bang, blow)! ©"

 

I don't want to belong to any club that would accept me as one of its members. - Groucho

So while I'm waiting for some loving from my tuner...

I've always felt the Sword of Damocles hanging from every unfused length of wire, especially the "welding cable" primary ones. The stock system elegantly mitigates this by fusing right off the battery terminal. But alas, that has been elusive in the aftermarket. And then a week ago, I found Littelfuse's CASE® BMZ Series. Sword sheathed!

I'm starting with a 175A for the 2KW starter cable in the center stud. This is 125% of the nominal load and the cable is at least 200% of that. Just in case I also got a 200A as a backup. For the other two circuits comprising the rest of the loads, I have a single 125A fuse. Again, 125% of the nominal load.


Littelfuse BMZ battery terminal mounted triple fuse (uncovered)
.

Littelfuse BMZ battery terminal mounted triple fuse (covered)

The rubber cover is pliable and "siliconey."

While a downside is a requirement to have more fuses in the toolbox, it is also possible to simply remove the fuse and directly mount the lugs to the studs in a pinch. <...as "Murphy" chuckles in the background!!! >

 

COOLANT SYSTEM THERMAL SNAPSHOT
My radiator is contrarian. It was a packaging tradeoff made with the design imprimatur of C&R more than two decades ago. Coolant flows into the bottom right to out the top left. The orthodoxy is the opposite flow pattern. Questioning the performance of such a design because it literally runs counter to convection is more than reasonable. However, I trusted C&R. I also always presumed that at +40 gal/min that the EWP flows at full tilt, well... convection, schmuckvection!

Today I collected some data after a fun run: The car had been idling for about 5 minutes in 79F ambient and the coolant was stable at 191F (at the bottom right radiator inlet temp sensor). The SPAL fan was at a 71% duty cycle equilibrium. Anything over 180F, the EWP is at 100% duty cycle. As a tangent, my coolant system aim while driving is 180F.

FLIR - Radiator at 191F idle with fan at 71% duty cycle
With a separate temp gun, I measured 191F at the bottom right inlet and 145F (+/-3F) at the top left outlet.

Admittedly, the satisfactory conclusion doesn't address the counterfactual theory... but I think I'll finally put a nail in the questionable thermal performance theory. And this is just at idle.

But since I got out the FLIR, I decided to take a few more pics for the common knowledge...

OIL / LUBRICATION THERMOSTAT SNAPSHOT
The oil system is CWC Mccal setup with dual 19-row Mocal coolers (and Valspeed CF ducts) and a Mocal 180F (OT-2) thermostat. Oil temp measured at the oil filter was exactly at the bypass of 180.4F. In the image, the oil flows into the bottom rear port. Below 180F it bypasses the coolers and goes back out the top rear port. Above 180F, it goes out the bottom front to the coolers which in turn feed the top front to the top rear out to the filter.



INTERCOOLER THERMAL SNAPSHOT
The IC is just a 1/2" in front of the radiator. Its perimeter is completely sealed to the radiator. I've also completely sealed the inlet except for an 8" inch^2 fresh air port of the turbo inlet filter.... more on that another day. Anyways, with the fan at just the 70% duty cycle, there is a nice draft through the enlarged inlet. The hot section to the right of the IC is the EWP's radiant heating of the aluminum duct. Something I learned from this picture.


FLIR - IC at idle with fan at 70% fan duty cycle

TURBO THERMAL SNAPSHOT

Finally, the heat-shielded turbo, coated and wrapped downpipe, and the ceramic-coated Xcessive intake. After seeing the image, I checked with the heat gun, and the intake was visually reflecting the turbo's temp and only a little about 100F. The turbo heatshield is Turblown. Actual EGTs were 464F/490F (F/R).

 

I don't consider myself a cooling system expert, but I've taken a few physics classes and I've done some research into automotive cooling systems because that seems to be a major challenge for our cars. From what I've read, the reason to have the cold coolant at the bottom of the radiator is to avoid air bubbles getting sucked into the water pump. Hot coolant (with some air bubbles) comes out of the engine and goes into the top of the radiator, and any air bubbles stay at the top of he radiator while the coolant flows down to the bottom. The water pump sucks the cold water from the bottom, because the water pump is most efficient when it is sucking cold (dense) coolant and mounted down low (for increased head pressure).

There's some good info in the various pages linked at https://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech-tips/

 

I would absolutely love getting one of those FLIRs. I was considering a rugged phone that came with the flir thermal camera but i ended up deciding against it
love the analysis, thanks for sharing @Carlos Iglesias

i am still going to reach out when I finally do the ewp switch 😅

 

I missed factoring in head pressure in my cost-benefit analysis of the cooling system. Thankfully, Engineering Toolbox provided the perfect graph:


Given the radiator inlet (the total system bottom) is 8" below the EWP inlet. The entire system (engine/ radiator) is about 12" tall. I'll spitball < -0.2 psi at the pump. Now I know.

For air in the system, I hope the air separator (top left of picture) suffices.



No question that my coolant system performance-packaging is proof that "there is no free lunch".

 

No doubt a nice setup, but as you already know I’m not a fan of having the EWP positioned at the top. No problem as long as there isn’t any hiccup. One hiccup though …

And also pumping through the engine and radiator rather than through the engine and gravity flowing through the radiator. Possibly lower delta P, not that it’s any contention if your number is correct. Seems kind of low, though I’m not sure. Just lower that I’d have anticipated.
.

 

its one of the foibles of the stock Rotary that the water pump is on top, partly why engine is so picky about cooling stuffs.
i'm not a huge fan of electric water pumps, we sell a lot of BMW/Mercedes parts, but one of the pluses is that you can mount it at the bottom, where the water is

so time to start the whole build over! are you done yet? :P

 

It's all your fault, @ptrhahn, and your stupid cool Joyfast shifter upgrade!!

So then I swap my 1/4 century-old Momo AirLeather Race shift for a Joyfast (thanks again @c0rbin9 ) that works together with my B&M shift, like Saturday morning cartons and boxes of cereal.

So then, with the matchy-matchy Momo steering wheel & shifter aesthetic shackles released, I decided it was time to get a suede steering wheel and got a Momo Mod 80 turny-thing.



Momo Mod 80 + Joyfast (med) shifter

So then the annoyance of integrating the steering wheel's non-center horn into my Snap-Off quick release took a couple of hours across three different prototypes of the wiring... just to have beep-beep.



Momo Mod 80 back with wiring and adapter


Snap-Off / Tekniq quick release


Momo Mod 80 w connections to Snap-Off / Teqnik steering wheel quick release (ver. 3)

So then the wires out of the horn buttons were interfering with the Snap-Off locking tabs, which required a 15mm Momo steering wheel extender.

So then it's all in and all I do is sit in the car with it off and "steer" and "shift" and make stupid "Zoom Zoom" sounds...

So thanks a lot Peter Hahn!!

 

Haha, sorry to spend your money for you. But, at least you can take comfort in knowing I wouldn't coerce you to do anything I wouldn't do myself!

 

Love the Weldon pumps design, flow, and general badassness... but the noise!!! It sounds so much like an air raid siren that my neighbors all shelter in place when I start the car up. It's almost worse inside the cabinet since the pump is bolted to a 1/4" AL mount that bolts to the subframe. The sonic low hanging fruit was addressing the cabin db by decoupling the pump to the subframe. Hello McMaster...


Weldon w. Isolation Mounts



While it's hardly Rolls Royce Silver Shadow quiet in the cabin, I guesstimate maybe 10 dB reduction in the cabin noise. Unfortunately, neighbors are still in their bunkers.

 

While trying to figure out if I have room to add a Burns Stainless muffler to the exhaust, I realized I've never captured the car's entire underside. So with a 2400lb yellow Sword of Damocles hanging from a blue lift 'fingers' over my prone body...


CYM Underside - Mar 2023

 

The magic levitation machine is mighty

 

its been a few years since i tried the burns mufflers but i wasnt very happy with them.
i switched to the magnaflows and now i am getting the borla xr1 muffler as a midpipe and i think its a better option. The craftsmanship on the borla could be better

 

love my Borla 40944 mid for 10 years