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FWIW, my recollection is I'm around 205F after 20 mins of WOT @80F ambient running a Ron Davis radiator, SMIC, twin 25 row Setrabs, Mazmart water pump (if that makes any diff), 10% coolant, full emissions, stock twins, A/C delete, and battery reloc. Putzing around town on a hot day, i'm around 190F. Before the above mods, i was running over 220F on the track which eventually melted my o-rings
220 is like 104-105c. That's why I was concerned before. I cleaned her up tonight and took her out for some 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. 90c (194f) is the highest she got. It is also night and was around 80-79f outside. Not sure how she would be in the real heat yet with the sun. I missed 3rd once for the 1st time. 😳
I am running with a lower tray.
Oil was 190 at the lights and 180°f whilst pulling.
Any idea how I could verify if I have the FC mod done? Like simple way?
Looking back through some of my logs and to be honest I thought it was running cooler back then now. Well, I guess technically it was, but only by a few degree C. That was running off the wastegate at 7-8psi instead of 10.5-11ish. I guess all is ok... I will still give her a flush though. I would like to see the temps a lot lower. Actually I would like to keep them below 100°c always if possible.
I read the article Dale wrote which was awesome. I am not sure how to check if the thermo switch was swapped. I may have to re read it. ill be doing the injectors soon and will have her down for a bit so I might as well get a few other things done.
97c is stamped on the side. If you move the pressure tank and grab a flashlight you may be able to see. A bore scope might help. Once you take off the alternator you can probably tell.
You may be able to turn on AC and get the car hot and listen for a fan speed change, but could be tough to do in the driveway since it'll already be cooling pretty hard. If you get the car above 97 and you knew the wiring you could check if the relay was hot on the right wire.
I had her out again tonight 79 ambient and was blasting around a bit. The temp got to 91c max and oil never got over 180 while really getting on it. Actually the oil was 160-170f. 180 at a light.
I will see if I can see the stamp when I remove the UIM. I may have the alternator rebuilt for higher amp also so I will have that off too. If not may be getting the add on for the pfc anyway so I could play with the temps.
You guys think I should change out the leading coil? The car has 56kish miles on it. I am pretty sure they are origional.
Just wondering because I would like to replace anything that may need it while under there. Fuel dampner for sure. If there is anything else you or anyone can think of please let me know.
1. Fuel dampner
2. Any or all hoses if they look remotely dry
3. Getting the primary injectors sent for cleaning and calibration
4. The secondary 2200s will be sent for cleaning.
5. Was considering the leading coil. Only 56k miles but it is still probably from 1994. I heard a couple horror stories of the lead coil going bad at wrong time costing an engine from detonation. (Not sure of I quite understand, but I trust the guy)
6. Fuel rail obviously
7. FC temp mod if it isn't complete.
8. Should I clean the grime off any solenoids or harnesses/clips with electrical cleaner? If it ain't broke probably better not to mess with them except clean.
9. ?
10. ?
test the coil while it's out (Ohm test in manual) and if it's fine, leave it. If you're planning on going down to take the injectors out, you're going to have to remove the rats nest and solenoids in the process, so be sure you're ready for that.
test the coil while it's out (Ohm test in manual) and if it's fine, leave it. If you're planning on going down to take the injectors out, you're going to have to remove the rats nest and solenoids in the process, so be sure you're ready for that.
Thx. No I am not ready for that, but I will give it a good try.
If you're pulling your rat's nest, you may want to check all your solenoids (cold and hot). About 1/3 of mine failed hot. You may also want to look into a Twin Power, however they are NLA and don't come up for sale that often.
So the 850s are out shown next to some bosch 2200s. I am descending all 4 to RC. I will have the 850s bored to 1200-1300 and the 2200s checked to make sure all is well. I may end up going with the bored out 850s if Rotary performance looks like they will take too long with their new fuel rail.
I started changing out a few vacuum hoses. Was considering changing out the fpd, but damn that looks like a pain in the **** to get too. It is very dry in there so I am thinking why mess with it at this stage. Installed the fast reacting temp sensor.
That's about all on the update. I have no idea which way I will go yet. Some hardcore oldschoolers say there is nothing wrong with the 850s bored out. Others still say they aren't reliable. I know the 2200 are more than enough fuel for my needs, but the 1300s would be more than enough for 14psi.
Now that I think about it I should go ahead and pull the nest to finish some more hoses I guess. If Indo that I may just change out the fpd.
Well the fuel line looks new and damper looks damn good. I have to remember that this engine only has around 4-5k ish miles on it as far as I know. I dont want to tear everything apart like I would on a rebuild (as it was just rebuilt). I will leave damper. Focus on a few more hoses and turn attention to the injectors to get this thing back up and running. I still need to rewire the fuel pump. She definitely needs to be cleaned up a bit in there. Of course I would like everything 100% show room, but I have to say there are certain things that if it isn't broke don't fix it. I need more fuel period. If swapping injectors, or a rail and injectors is all that needs to be done then there is no need to redue everything. Of course ecu map.
I did get a new leading coil to be safe. I had no indication there was an issue with the original, but I would feel better having a brand new one. In the mean time I will grab that fire extinguisher and have it handy!!
My current car is really stock, and I've only run the stock injectors. I've seen plenty of people run with 1300's and do well. I also hear good things about the FFE step up fuel kit that keeps stock primaries and upgrades the secondaries. Everyone should carry an extinguisher, mine is en route currently.
Damnit. I decided to just get the 850s cleaned. I will reinstall when they get back. The 2200s are on standby. Whenever RP gets the rail finished I will take everything apart again and install. The damn car runs strong... Do it once.... do it right.
If you know the FPD has been replaced w/i the last 5 years, it's good, but if not, you should replace it or delete it. It may look good, but if it's original, the rubber is 25 years old
If you know the FPD has been replaced w/i the last 5 years, it's good, but if not, you should replace it or delete it. It may look good, but if it's original, the rubber is 25 years old
FPD is replaced!! Secondary rail removed. Swapped regulator and fuel temp sensor. Waiting for injectors tomorrow and hopefully I am not working so I can stop the gas smell at least. New Orings of course.
Upon removing the fuel diffusers I broke one and it fell into the intake. I got lucky and ran a tube down the LIM air intake and vacuumed it out.
All hoses on rats nest are replaced. I have a few more to go with the turbos. I am starting to put her all back together... up to the rail. I dont recall if I mentioned, but I got a new Denso Leading coil to replace the old. Nothing was wrong with the old one, but I hopefully I am not taking the uim off for awhile. I just like this view. Sitting in garage pissed about the diffuser. Then I see this angle.. this is why I continue!
11-13-18, 04:42 PM
