pics Part 4 - Power Wire For Fans

 

pics Part 5 - Fan Controller Bracket And Probe

 

pics Part 6 - Fan Wiring Complete

 

pics Part 7 - Fan Controller Works

 

pics Part 8 - Bumper On And Looks Good

 

pics Part 9 - Growing Coolant Seal Leak

 

pics Part 10 - Clean Hood Heat Shield

 

Quick question amigos.

Sitting still in the driveway, what causes the car to sputter at 1/4ish throttle when you try to rev it slowly to redline.

Say at around 3.5 to 4kish it starts to happen, but if you floor it, it goes to redline no issues.

Is this the pri 550/ sec ID2000 transition setting?

Mine is at 55%

Any help would be appreciated.

Ben

 

Talking with some tuners looks like its a small map area which did not get tuned. Time to learn autotune in the FC Tweak software today.

 

Ive been away working on a friends car, re-vamping it.

Ive been told my motor has ported exhaust with stock intake ports - gonna leave it like that.
Supposedly has oil modification done to it.
Can't wait to see whats on the inside of this thing.

Got some money saved for my re-build.

Any inputs, this is what I have planned so far

OEM Mazda rebuild kit
E&J 2mm 2 piece apex seals
E&J 1/2 studs with ARP nuts
Pineapple Racing Solid and drilled 1 piece dowel pins.


I'll know more once I take apart my motor to see what else needs replacing.

 

Electric Water Pump?

 

"Engine rebuild" lol

I briefly thought about it before but its too much money and i have enough electronic giZmos as it is. So just engine related stuff.

 

Your cooling problems should be all squared away anyway with all the new seals and coolant passages cleaned out.

I just hope you can keep the orange and green 787B livery with that motor!

 

yes sir - same paint !!!!!!!!!!

 

Can't wait to see it all squared away, hopefully we'll be rolling to Seven Stock this year! Also that orange and green looks super badass for sure.

 

That would be sweet if we all could roll together.

Im working on another project right now so thats why my motor has not been ripped out yet.

I'm guessing I'll be done in a few months then I can jump back onto my car.

 

This is not my car but this is exactly what I am doing to a friends car right now.

https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec...troke-1109810/

 

I wanted to update that I uploaded a tune Xavier (FC Tweak) helped me with to fix the ignition break up at 5.5k to 6k.

I went for a test drive and the car was smooth. Just drove easy, like it was new.

From a stop I slowly accelerated to 3k then gave it about 3/4 gas, the 2nd turbo kicked in and the tires spun... then I shifted into second gave it 3/4 gas and the tires spun again... wow, thats new !!!

ported exhaust, racing cat, hks intakes, bnr stage 1 turbo's and 7psi.

It feels so much better then before - WHY DO HAVE TO HAVE A BLOWN COOLANT SEAL.... UUGGGHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All I can do is finish my friends car and then I can get back to mine... In like 3 to 4 months.

 

At least you wont have to tune again after your rebuild, right?

 

For the most part the major tuning is done.

I feel confident all the bugs have been worked out.

Im sure after the rebuild I'll need to run autotune on FC Tweak to fine tune it.

 

I like to Touge - alot of on/off throttle. Time attack is cool too. Im not a drifter, but the skill is required for recovery in situations. All of these are different scenarios on how you should focus your build, and also if you have a dedicated track car or if your a weekend warrior.

So I know we premix to get better lube all over in the chamber, but when you decel and your decel is set in the pfc to turn off the injectors until a certain rpm is reached you loose that lube - (well not completely because there is still some residual in there).

I just want that added protection right at the apex seals and the premix can coat everything else for me.

I picked up the RA OMP adapter to run 2 cycle from a separate tank so I can still have some clean oil injection on decel and I'll still premix just less now.

I read several threads all about the miss-aligned hole on the adapter and modification to the pri turbo oil return pipe to get it to clear the omp unless you have the 99 and up Mikuni omp.

This is the best thread that sums it up - https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...apter-1089280/

After I get the motor rebuilt I'll do a detailed install review of the RA OMP adapter like I normally do.

With all this extra crap I'm adding it looks like I'll need a check list before I start my car, I should have just bought a Cessna... lol

 

"if" anyone is interested, you can check out what I am doing on Calvin Wan's Drift FD by checking out his FB page.

Rotary Extreme is a sponsor for Calvin's FD's since 2003

This is why work has stopped on my car for now.

Look's like making VM kits (metal working) and rebuilding my car (better understanding of the car) has given me the knowledge and experience to support Calvin with the overhaul for his FD.

Cheers

 

gonna leave this right here for when my engine is rebuilt

https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec...-break-998641/

 

Just wanted to share what has been shared somewhere else.

This is a little bit of what I did lately - aside from stripping the whole car down.

Painted some dash pieces - https://www.rx7club.com/interior-ext.../#post12510590

Did some frame work - https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec.../#post12507656

 

Update 106



I kinda forgot to post my compression test results since I have been busy on another project. I found my old school TR-01 Rotary Compression tester. I bought it over 10 years ago and I thankfully stored it without the battery in it. Glad I decided to check my engine and the results probably contribute to one of the reasons why the pri turbo spools a little slow. I am also still running on the wastegate spring and I don't know if it would open faster if I were to turn on the boost controller, set the opening speed to sharp and maybe try setting it to 8lbs. Anywho, heres the results and whats being planned. Also please keep in mind I am still learning, so I enjoy being corrected when you know I am way off



1. Engine compression test

2. Leaking AST

3. Future plans



1. Engine compression test

I brought the engine up to operating temp and then shut it down. I pulled off all the spark wires and disconnected the fuse pump relay in the rear hatch. I tested the front rotor first in the leading and trailing position and repeated it for the rear rotor.



I used the TR-01 calculator to normalize the cranking speed to 250 RPM found here https://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rotarycalc



Front rotor leading was 67 / 77 / 79 @ 239 RPM

Normalized to 250 RPM = 69.7 / 80.1 / 82.2



Rear rotor leading was 74 / 74 / 76 @ 240 RPM

Normalized to 250 RPM = 77 / 77 / 79.1



Right now I start my car every few weeks and it's getting harder and harder to start it when it's warmed up. At one point I flooded the engine and I am wondering if I fouled the plugs. I eventually got it started by disconnecting the fuel pump relay and cycling the engine for a bit to get everything out and then plugged the fuel pump back in to restart the car. I probably did this sequence like 10 times before the car finally started. It's been hard to start since so yeah - maybe the plugs are jacked, all 4 plugs are trailing by the way. Car also drips coolant outside and inside the engine now. When I shut off the car I have to immediately lift the pressure relief valve on the AST so the coolant does not leak into the engine under pressure while it cools down. But damn, when it's running it runs smooth and feels great. (for 7psi) lol.



2. Leaking AST

Apparently the Pettit AST has a known issue of leaking at the neck where its welded to the top of the tank. It's welded on the inside for a cleaner look I guess. I'm going to strip the powder coating in that section and weld a bead around the outside and hope it will stop the leaking. If not then I guess I'll get Pettit's new AST design which is welded on the outside now.



3. Future plans

OMP

I want to have the OMP and premix mainly to be fully covered on accel and decel. Deceleration coasting down a big pass for miles if I should happen to be in decel fuel cut for some weird *** reason. I was able to source everything to reinstall the OMP system onto my car. I got a good used tested OMP, brand new lines, oil injectors, the spacers below the oil injectors, all OEM crush washers, RA OMP adapter and a reservoir I will need to modify to use for the 2-cycle oil. I may need to change the AST design to fit everything in front of the engine since I do not want to do an AST delete yet.


Dashpot

My Dashpot is worn out and I had to rotate it for it to hold more spring pressure for some strange reason. I got a new one to help with a smoother return to base idle when the TB is closed. I also wanted to prevent any stumbling while doing constant on / off throttle touge runs. We have roads that have hairpin turns and about 12 miles of a single lane road with which you'll never get out of 2nd gear.



Fuel Temp Sensor

I bought a secondary fuel rail so I can modify it to fit in between the FPR and the CJ motorsport secondary rail I have. It will hold the fuel temp sensor and the fuel pressure gauge sender. The fuel temp sensor is not a make it or break it item on a modified car but neither is the ISC if you keep your base idle high enough. Speaking with Xavier and understanding how the fuel temp sensor can adjust the fuel by as much as 4% based on weather and fuel temp. I feel I would like to plumb it back in.



Frame Work

While the engine is out I would like to try and straight the left front corner that is pushed back. I can tell by how things bolted back up. I will also repaint the top part of the firewall where the weather stripping is for the back of the hood to fix the nasty scratch I caused while putting the engine back in.



Harness Rework

I need to redo the modified solenoid harness to make it shorter since there is a big loop on top of the engine. I will also redo the engine harness and completely pull back all the unused connectors and wires back into the cabin.



Engine - To Rebuild Or Replace

This depends on how the teardown goes. The new engines from Mazda are built to the latest spec of the 2001/2002 13BREW from what I have heard. These engines got the 280 hp from the factory and have whatever updates to make them better. Obviously I do not know what all the changes are but the Oil injector holes are supposed to have been changed along with the newer designed OMP. Another little weird thing is the timing mark on the front cover is no longer a needle sticking out and is now a cast raised angled wall. Hope someone can elaborate more on all the changes. So if I'm around 4.5k on the rebuild and have to replace any major big parts then I might just consider getting a new motor.



Well that's about it for now. I'm sure there are some other things I wanted to do but I needed to document it here so I would not forget with the time comes. Thank you all for reading my post. Enjoy the pics.