The pre control actuator was the rod that was disconnected. I need to search for the secondary wastegate rod.

There's only 1 wastegate.

Going over the symptoms of a secondary boost loss; which I'm experiencing a drop of pressure around 5k/5500k rpms to about mid .4ish bars,


I've tested the Charge control solenoid/Actuator.

I checked out the actuators rod was sticking out. Started the car and let it idle. Rod was pulled in. Shut the car off and the rod was out again without pulling a hose.

I disconnected the Charge Release Valve hose connected to the actuator and pressure came out.



Engine running rod is in:


https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1668/...9e3731f6_c.jpgUntitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr




Engine Off Rod is out:



https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1638/...62b46684_c.jpgUntitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

I believe with the charge control valve, you can do a key on, key off check. As long as the vacuum chamber is charged with vacuum, you should be able to turn the key forward and the rod should move in. With the key off, the rod should move back out.

Another possible issue with low secondary boost can be an issue with the turbo control actuator. That's the actuator that opens in the exhaust manifold and directs exhaust gases to both primary and secondary turbos. I believe you said you have replaced all your solenoids with new ones right? I would find it hard to believe if one of the solenoids are bad but you can always test the actuator itself if you have a Mityvac. In the FAQs, there is a link to turbo troubleshooting from autosports race tech or something like that. It has info on setting the length of the wastegate/pre control actuators as well. It mentions if secondary boost is low, the length of the actuator could be incorrectly set.

Looks like you found one major issue with that rod being disconnected. Sucks it didn't fix ALL the problems. Don't give up on the twins yet though! You'll get it.

Matt

I checked the pressure tank and I have pressure releasing when I disconnected the vacuum line.


I have excellent vacuum at idle and operating temp. I'm around -380mmhg/ -390mmhg which is 15ish psi.

@Mrmatt3465

Thats the site I'm referencing to check for this problem. I'm going down the steps one by one. I totally appreciate the help everyone is giving me lately and effort into this. I will not give up. I'm almost there.

Autocrossed in Tavares on Sunday with a Porsche Club.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1595/...344146f2_c.jpgDSC08238 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr



https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1503/...10e3d354_c.jpgDSC08243 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1704/...1af27885_c.jpgDSC08255 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr


https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1478/...f1745497_c.jpgDSC08256 by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

You need to get on a road course

@TomU once I'm more confident in myself to handle the car, I will definitely try. I'm currently oversteering and trying to manage the power.




Autocross video from 02/28/2016 held by the PCA

Confidence and driving skills not required. That's why they have instructors.

Having done both, I'd only autocross only to get Mazdaspeed discounts.

(of course generally they are conveniently located, relatively inexpensive, won't rag your car, and probably won't kill you)

Not gonna lie, most of what you said is true. I've auto crossed since before I owned the rx7 in my turbo charged Miata. The Miata was driven for 4 years so I had a feel of how the vehicle reacted. I also had a very responsive car more so then most cars out there. The Miata is a very well balanced vehicle even stock.

I autocross because it's fun and an outlet to drive hard on a private coarse. I also autocross to get discounts. You know how that works and so do I. I wouldn't mind getting an instructor to do a road coarse/ track day but I'd like to do a brake rebuild job before I do, get a strut bar, stickier tires, and fix the second turbo to boost 10lbs.

Installed Jeffs PFC ECU Bracket so its not flopping around. Especially while Autocrossing. Interested to see what other intuitive products he has in store for the Rx7

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1676/...fff5c546_c.jpgUntitled by Gerald Mugar, on Flickr

PBIR is a very easy course, you should go there for your first time out at the track. Should only be about a 2? hour drive from you I'm guessing. It's about the same for me from Miami. If you want to get out there let me know I'll try and make it out in my FD also.

I did a search and I like to make installations easy for me while being prepared. I couldn't find a write up how to wire 99 fog lights to a usdm wiring. I have the 99 rebar so I'm squared away installing the bracket. I am also concerned how the fog light mounts mate up to their mounting points on the rebar with the RMagic oil cooler ducts installed on the bumper.

All arms are functional. I can't figure out why Im not boosting .7bar to redline. I'm achieving .4ish bars to redline. Primary is boosting .7 fine.

clogged exhaust? tired turbos?

@narfle this was taken of course on jack stands and I'm under the car. A clogged exhaust has been mentioned before but then would the primary be affected too? It is getting .7 bar.

I've had a similar issue happen to me. On my non seq twins, I used to get .8 kg/cm2 at full boost but over time that number crept down to .5 kg/cm2. No boost leaks. I replaced the turbos and all was well for a while. Now these turbos are having the same problem, so I'm going single turbo :o

If you haven't already, try building a boost leak tester and making sure you have no leaks. If you don't have any leaks, then I think a set of 99 spec twins is calling your name.

A clogged cat might have more trouble keeping up at high rpms, but I'd expect a gradual loss of boost over rpm and not a cliff in transition.
A sequential control issue or secondary turbo failure might present as failure to transition.
Is a rotary specialist an option? At some point you need a second pair of eyes, if not a mechanic.
I know we don't trust other people with our cars and all, but I have had positive experiences in my day.

You should audit the points you've checked/corrected so far to get to this point, maybe see what's left to check.

I'll have a professional take a look. Cam suggested it's the secondary turbines might be chipped when the first owner blew the motor.

Hopefully I can have the motor mounts installed and the turbo looked at by KiloRacing. If not then I will be at DGRR where the best of the best specialists will be. You guys lol

Jeff has something pretty cool in the works, I think everyone will be pleasantly surprised ;)

So I developed an exhaust leak with the stock twins. It's inevitable. Especially since just about everything has been touched and replaced but the twins with 147k miles. Yes, that number is correct. I put on 22k miles in about a year 20 months on a rotary.

So, tomorrow I am checking out a set of N3G1 99 spec twins along with a HKS down pipe, and a bonez or rx7store.net midpipe. Still need to figure out what it is that's replacing my stock midpipe.

I'm hoping to get it done before autocross this weekend. We'll see.

I'm sure you will say no because you want to keep the car stock, reliable blah blah blah.

But ditch those POS twins. Upgrade to single if you can and never look back.

Edit.. Or BNR twins if you want to stay with the twins

I keep getting told this. You make it 4 in less then 24 hours.

Right now if I were to get the bnr's, it would cost me more then 2,100 because I don't have a core and irp needs a core for exchange at that price. So I'm assuming it's going to cost 2900 for a new set.


In order for this deal to happen, I redirected the finances to get this set by cancelling my motor mount order and corner balancing that was going to happen Thursday.

In the long run you should upgrade to something better (bnr's or single).I understand your situation at this point but even the 99 spec twins are old.

Start saving :nod:

nice build so far.