Rocketeerbandit's Rx-7 : The Never Satisfied and Relentless
 

Starting a Build thread as I have done some things to the car to share you all with.


I bought my dream vehicle after owning two other Mazdas. First being a 2002 protege which was a complete nightmare. Second and most recent is the 99 Mx-5 miata.

I bought this prestine, one owner, 1993 Montego blue touring edition back in September.


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/...65a9697a_c.jpgDSC02481 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3883/...ef47df9c_c.jpgDSC02459 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/...232c2c1e_c.jpgDSC02554 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr






Well, The car was professionally waxed, clayed, and sealed to bring out the 21 years of paint underneath. It still looks amazing right now. So I continued to daily drive the car and parade her around.




https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5595/...d19d6176_c.jpgRocketeer by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr



I have already done some maintenance like the fluids in the transmission and differential. Replaced all the shifter bushings, collars, and boots with oem parts.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2950/...ee363c14_c.jpg20140930_074513 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2946/...b7011ed5_c.jpg20140930_082657 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

I took the car back to the mechanic that rebuilt the motor with fresh new everything because of a seal that failed on the oil pressure sending unit causing a major oil leak that was unnoticeable. Lowes Automotive in Sarasota honored the warranty even being the second owner of the vehicle after there rebuild which was a relief to find out.


So after a 4 hour drive back home one of the fans stopped working.
The Fan blade was borrowed through from the motor rotating inside of it and caused a nasty plastic burning smell which alerted me along with the a/c not working properly and the temp gauge creeping up.

Good thing I caught on quickly where nothing happened. I ordered new parts from mazda like two new fan motors, fan blades and hardware to put everything back in nicely. I also purchased new bushings for the intercooler since they were in pretty bad shape shifting around.



https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3953/...b5a05ba0_c.jpg20141011_103236 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/...02a545db_c.jpg20141011_103248 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3946/...f91baa45_c.jpg20141011_121124 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5608/...09d5047a_c.jpg20141011_133118 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/...75439311_c.jpg20141015_112411 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/...7dac56f9_c.jpg20141014_192519_Richtone(HDR) by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr



The hardware was rusted and had to be dremeled off. What a Pain.

I had also purchased from pettit racing their aluminum ast, a used air pump lower miles, and their premix.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3923/...38b0101c_c.jpgIMG_20140925_113004 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr




I found out that the car has a Megan racing downpipe to eliviate engine temperatures and better flowing exhaust. The car also has a koyo racing radiator.






The interior was a little rough for my taste and I keep getting told that its mint as is but there are things that bother me like the center console and the door panels with the plastics. This will be a long venture trying to buy replacements.

As of now I found brand new mazda door panels off a member here that has been storing them. Mazda doesn't make tan door panels or plastics. Found that out. But I also purchased a brand new center console and Ac Panel.



https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2943/...2c9448d8_c.jpg2014-09-22_10-32-14 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr



https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2942/...002fd486_c.jpgIMG_20140925_091341 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr



https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3931/...bdd086ff_c.jpgDSC02705 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

So I am battling what I want to do with the car v.s. what other's opinions are and advice given.

I added an R1 lip to give it an aggressive look like the RX7 I've known to have. But its not taking away from the stock factor and its originality.


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/...46dcfd12_c.jpgDSC03087 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/...3f0452d7_c.jpgRxSunset2 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr






I autocrossed the Miata and loved how it handled for all the work and parts I had installed on it like tein flex, flyin miata's turbo 2 kit, sway bars, stiffer bushings, Works cr01's 15x9 flared with and aggressive stance. Made s2k's cry.



So I autocrossed the Rx7 since the handling and suspension seemed to be coincide with the miata's. Though bushings are blown and shocks need to be replaced, I couldn't resist a two day local event given 12 runs each day.


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7480/...b4d31731_c.jpgDSC03299 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5604/...0db4fa53_c.jpgDSC03287 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7575/...2e6c3b00_c.jpgDSC03269 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7489/...dc6f14c0_c.jpgDSC03267 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/...3ae01866_c.jpgDSC03263 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/...f3bc670d_c.jpgDSC03255 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

At the end of the Autocross this past weekend that CKCC held {corvette club}

I was leaking Power Steering fluid. Not sure why. Maybe because the cap or the slushing around hard turns, or the heat.

Well I cleaned everything up real good and put some dye in the reservoir to see if its a hose or a crack in the reservoir which was still full and odd. Ill get an update on that issue in the next couple of days.


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5607/...8f3e041a_c.jpgDSC03512 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr




Here are some pictures that I took of the autocross...


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5613/...596d0ae6_c.jpgDSC03486 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5614/...06913aea_c.jpgDSC03415 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5605/...735fb723_c.jpgDSC03442 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7464/...4604e68c_c.jpgDSC03363 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7489/...d6b1324b_c.jpgDSC03366 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7508/...78d3b337_c.jpgDSC03384 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

I have some issues I need to clear up like Why am I keeping my hand on the shifter for so long? Why am I not having both hands on the steering wheel like I should be doing instead swagging it out one handed on the course?

Need to work on that. Also the video is my best time. 49.813

I was getting 50.2- 50.7 all day long. So I was enthusiastic about breaking under 50

Other than reliability mods, don't mess with this survivor! Keep it running happy and enjoy it. She's a beauty!

Glad to see you make a thread.

Lots of good stuff going on here, keep up the good work!

Remember next lunch is on me.

Steve

Man that interior is mint. Good looking car. Still on the sequential setup?

Nice clean Montego Blue :icon_tup:

Thanks guys. I just purchased better conditioned door panels. I'm on the hunt for the door plastics on the drivers side and will pay pretty pennies for a good set.

And the car is still sequential turbo setup as Mazda made it. The engine bay still is pretty much untouched minus the koyo aluminum radiator, pettits ast, and Megan racing dp.

nice car. i love seeing people replace parts with new OEM mazda stuff.


how much did all the replacement shifter bushings/boots stuff cost you? i need to do this on my car.

Saw your car @ the five guys meet. Very stock and clean.

Thanks mark... I have a couple pictures of your car I'd like to share with ya... your car sounded beast.


https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/...6f77d16b_c.jpg
Digi by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8610/...317bda8f_c.jpg
DSC03906 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

It wasn't all that much I forget what I paid for the complete set which Mazda bundles it up for you. I know it had to be less then 100.00 easy. Though I do get 10% above dealership costs.

Today the car is getting the front windshield pulled to replace the moulding and stripping around the perimeter. It's curling and exposing what's underneath. I don't want a future problem with rust where water seeps in little pockets of the old adhesive. I was told that the previous owner also quite possibly tried to add a adhesive himself to fix the issue. So I'm going in there with oem seals getting the job done right.

I noticed this buildup around the ac line...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8617/...4d03066d_c.jpg
20150104_175513 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8608/...4b1a4d6e_c.jpg
20150104_175414 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


not ssure where this mess is coming from...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8590/...921383ab_c.jpg
20150104_175253 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

Last pic LOOKS like you have a boost leak with a little oil coming out of the turbos

The other two look like you have a leak in that AC valve, BUT it could be from it being regaesed its hard to say.

Also looks like your geting to the point where you really need to keep an eye on all your hoses. There looking old and you racing this car

Thanks for the feedback. I am now thinking of rebuilding the stock turbos and replacing all the vacuum lines.

Nice stock FD. As the car is 20+ yrs old, the rubber is probably going. You may want to consider replacing all the water and vacuum lines along with suspension bushings and shocks. The turbo may not need to be rebuilt, but the wastegate may need to be ported if you are getting any boost creep. Get a boost and temp gauge to keep an eye on those two crtical vital signs (the stock temp gauge is worthless).

@tomu I will get those two gauges but which gauges are most complimented to the cars interior with it not being an eye sore but still looking stock? Also where could I put them so it's clean and not over exposed so everyone sees them?

Car is at Pettit racing. I'm lucky they AR an hour and forty five minutes away. Tomorrow the car is getting it's physical done to let me know what cam highly suggests I do and wants to do along the lines of my ideas and reams for the car.

I will take is advice on performance grain by grain and I do value the car being stock. So with that being said, a lot of the oem parts will stay unless suggested other wise for reliability like keeping the car cool and reducing heat.

The motor is brand new 6k miles on it. It's going to last me several years to come.
I will define try bring to the threads attention on a sole suggestions for the car before being performed.

shoulda pmed me before you brought it to pettit. I got a buddy that worked there for a while and therefore I usually get stuff cheaper and/or the no bs minus what they are making $$ off of what needs to be done.

I should have pmed you and appreciate that I can ask you for assistance. I'll consider it in the future and hold you to it.

The car is getting a complete sequential system service;

Update the crankcase and turbo vent breather system

by passing the warm up system "Florida is warm already" and fuel regulator switch

Fit sequential control system with HD hose and install over boost safety circuit

calibrating system actuators

tune up: plugs,wires,fuelfilter, servicing ignition system, fuel system, airfilter, tune and adjust for optimum performance and longevity

Install thermostat, fan switch, replace turbo cooling hoses, flushing system, pressure check cooling system, service cooling fan relays, update central system, verify proper operation

185f fan switch

Green engine sensor temp


Cold air induction system with ICD cover kit, dual K&N filters and "V" duct inlet system off road use

Cool power kit, twin turbo 20ft. Woven thermal barrier

fully isolated shifter short stroke

Pulleykit, alternator and water pump belt

Thats their gravy maker there, all reliability mods. Get the Metal AST too.

AFR Wideband eventually I would say , nice car :)

@mark: already installed as one of the first mods I did as per suggested.

@7krazy when I do, I'd like it to be a tach then digital.

I get the car back in friday.

I'm looking into buying a racing seat for myself when I autocross. I have never bought a seat to fit my personal measurements. I looked on the seat thread but it just progressed me to ask in my thread what is suggested from experience.

I'm looking for a seat that sits a couple inches lower then stock.

I'm 6'0 with a helmet pushing 6'2

I have a 32 paint size waist.

I'm looking for something that is new and fia approved along with being light weight.

Preferably tan in color but won't steer me away completely if black.

So if anyone could direct me in a nice brand/seat lmk.

Everything got done. Emissions have been removed and this car is only breathing in fresh air.

http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1421587398
DSC04449 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment...ine=1421587398
20150117_101650_Richtone(HDR) by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7519/...74efe98e_c.jpg
DSC04432 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

Nice. What next besides finding a seat?

Bushings all around front and back with new coilovers

The car is at Mazda right now. The reason is because after I installed a remanufactured alternator, it seemed one of the wires to the sensor clip that plugs in the alternator was stripped out of its connector.

The power supply cable from the alternator started to burn and melt causing a plastic burn smell. I got the car towed to Mazda from Orlando to Melbourne using AAA.

So the car is getting a new Co-harness to fix the burnt current one. The cars low beams also are not working simultaneously as this all happened. I also am getting a full inspection done because I'm driving to DGRR and afterwards taking a cross country trip in the Rx-7.

So while the car is at mazda, I'm getting brand new coil packs and in the next couple weeks having mazda replace all the bushings.

Now you think I'm crazy having the dealership work on the car and pay dealership prices but I'm receiving quality work on one special mechanic who has worked on rotaries since 1990 and I'm paying for oem parts at wholesale price.

I can't wait to get my car back.

I got a price of both front and rear suspension done with oem bushings. The prices are fair because I'm getting the oem parts at cost what the dealer buys themso if a part for instance F131-34-200 is listed at 417, they will sell it to me for 275. Not the retail price.

I am concern and hope I am making the right decision.

Right now it's about 4k to get the rear done by mazda and about 2100 for the front. That includes labor for about 9 hours at 115 an hour. This is upper and lower control arms complete front and back ,bushings toe links etc.

As of right now I am getting the rear done because of the clunking and taking the bulk price of the restoration done first and then do the front in a couple months.

Holy crap. $6k to have the suspension redone? Thank god I can do my own work. You are getting ripped off so bad.

How? Labor? Or parts? Because the parts are gonna last another 20 years longer then polyurethane. Labor? It's roughly 1k

Nice car, remember seeing it at the Classic Mazda meet. Keeping it clean and keeping it simple is the way to go.

Thanks Rmagic, will you be at the April 11th meet?

You can buy an entire roller for $6k. I'm sorry, spending that much on bushings is just crazy, so many better ways to spend money.

I can't argue that you can buy a roller for that price. I can argue how one can spend the money the way the choose to. Though I don't want to. And I focus on one project rather then multiple because I like to get them done and enjoy driving them. With getting the bushings done, I don't have to hear and feel clunking in the rear. I also like to play around and autocross and any bushing right now is better then a 23 year old bushing. Another thing to process, I daily the car everyday and every chance I get. The car is in extremely great shape inside and out. The motor especially because the previous owner installed a brand new motor with new housings, rotors, etc. I have the paper trail of it. I also plan on getting an immaculate paint job done to the car with brand new seals all over the car. Yes I did price those out with Mazda and it's about 1600 just for seals. Call me crazy but I'll be Damm sure to get the job done right and right the first time.

I agree that if you are painting the car, you should get new seals. And there aren't really any options for them so you really have no choice but to pay Mazda for them.

Regarding the bushings, I'm not knocking you for doing it the right way. I'm just saying that I did my car for under $1k in parts. You can call J Auto (a vendor on here), buy all pillow balls and all super pro bushings for under $1K.

I see that you only want OEM bushings. I can kind of understand that, but are you adding coilovers to the car? Most people on here that want OEM bushings want them for a smooth stock-like ride and then throw on a set of coilovers. Most have high spring rates compared to stock, and when you do that, very few benefits are of going stock bushings are actually felt by the driver.

I do plan on getting high end coil overs like ohlins or comparable. Do I really need such a coilover? No but since my last two cars had tein flex and my miata has bc coilovers, I want to try something different. I will autocross but not to compete. More to relieve stress and to have fun with friends of mine in the region who do the same.

So you're saying that I won't benefit from stock bushings or feel a difference. But I know some of them are blown and the arm bar is squawking at me in the rear. I'm sure there will be some improvement replacing all the arms bushings and tierods.

I have talk to some guys that I know and some that I just met about polyurethane and oem bushings. Most are saying oem because of the work polyurethane has to re-greassing the bushing so they don't sqeak. To me that's another round of labor pulling them out and reinstalling them. On top of that I do live on the beach with salt air in florida with humidity and rain. They get dried out rather quickly. Not to say that rubber bushings won't but I believe that the smoother ride and replacing the bushings in need to be replace with have an impact of how the car drives after an alignment. It su ks that the oem bushings are so much but I'm doing a complete job. Once this job is finished and I install coilovers, the fun can commence with either a paintjob, pfc/ecu/commander, wheels, intercooler and exhaust. Each all tastefully done and not abnoxious.

Just for fun

Stock Rx7 pull:

I know you are already sold on OEM bushings. But if your major concern is about taking them apart in a few years to grease them, many people put zerk fittings in the arms (simply drill and tap a hole in each arm, maybe a half hour of work total) and you can grease them any time you want. There are a few builds on here that show this detail. You could easily still do this "right" and do it once with only spending $2k including labor. that $4k in savings could buy you a really sweet set of coilovers.

I really have to agree with TwinCharged Rx7 on this one. Personally I have the oem mazda pillowball bushing and the full powerflex bushing set and I couldn't be happier. Also everyone ways says that you have to regrease the bushings and what not but from my past experience and current with these bushings, as long as your liberally grease them while installing you won't have to again. I have not gotten a single squeak from any corner. Also I have the Ohlins DFV which you will definitely be happy with.
If it was a deal of a couple hundred or hell even a thousand bucks I could see where you're coming from but I just think you could use that money for other things.
That being said, it is your money and you are free to spend it however you want��

This is what I was planning on doing...


This bill is for front and rear w/o labor which is about 9 hours or 1100.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7584/...05833d75_b.jpg20150329_175203 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7627/...a854a4dc_b.jpg20150329_174731 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7592/...d50973c8_b.jpg20150329_174803 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr




Everything in the boxes

Thought you said you were having the bushings replaced? Those prices are for all new control arms front and rear.

@andre, what about the last picture bottom left on the arm that's a bushing that can't be replaced but only by getting the new control arm? Or the upper arm in the same picture to the middle right the bushing is welded in the arm

I think you are talking about the ball joints. If they aren't worn out just take off the boots, clean out the old grease, re-pack with new grease and new boots. I think the part numbers in the pictures are actually just the rubber boots.

But yes, they are not replaceable. However, I have heard some people have figured out how to replace them. But I haven't seen a DYI with ball joint part numbers (not from mazda, they are some kind of bolt in piece from another car I think).

I preemptively made a quote for just the bushings and I think the Miata has bolt in ball joints. I dont think these quotes include the trailing arms or toe links.
Front:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7604/...682b1789_b.jpg2015-03-29_07-41-47 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr


Rear:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7653/...af00fd45_b.jpg2015-03-29_07-42-10 by rocketeerbandit, on Flickr