socks

iTrader: (9)

I didnt get any videos of the pass, unfortunately, I was there solo.

Xentrix, I do frequent Caesars Head

socks

iTrader: (9)

moar videos!

first run of the night (missed 2nd pretty good):

-----------------------socks------------------------mizboo102

R/T ----------------- .0701 --------------------- .0268
60' ----------------- 1.8577 --------------------- 1.9644
330' ---------------- 5.4185 --------------------- 5.3819
1/8 ET ------------- 8.2931 ---------------------- 8.0924
MPH ---------------- 85.86 ----------------------- 91.36

Second Run:

---------------------socks--------------------------mizboo102

R/T ---------------- -.2278 ---------------------- -.2852
60' ---------------- 1.7666 ----------------------- 2.2153
330' --------------- 5.0806 ----------------------- 5.7313
1/8 ET ------------ 7.8326 ------------------------ 8.5211
MPH --------------- 89.43 ------------------------- 87.16

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

very nice.

what boost are you running?

i need to take mine to the drag strip.

i'd guess you're making about the same power as me, based on that 90mph trap speed. about 320whp?

socks

iTrader: (9)

it was making 300whp/300wtq at 12psi at 5200rpm when the clutch started slipping on the dyno.

running 16psi right now. No idea on power.

id expect that its making quite a bit more than that. a friends supercharged c6 making 510whp is trapping 92mph at the same track

your 93 is trapping 90mph at 320whp?

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

my current FD has not been to the track yet, unfortunately.

but just for reference:
my previous FD ran a 7.78@92 on the stock turbos at 14psi, and weighed 2660 (without me in the car) on the scale at the track that day. (12.09@115 1/4) --this car launched really hard for some reason.
my white FC ran 8.1x and trapped 92 with 360whp/306wtq (dynojet, -- maybe 310-320 on a dyno dynamics) and a laggy t04b v-trim 1.15 a/r turbine housing (12.5@115 1/4) --this car never got off the line well.
my good friend with a LS1 FD (very mild cam, intake, exhaust) traps 92-93mph (350whp/350wtq dynojet IIRC)

16psi should be about 400whp on a dyno dynamics with that turbo tuned in the 11's AFRs with ~15* advance and ~10* split. and 400whp FDs usually trap in the mid-high 90s mph in the 1/8th (low-mid 120s mph in the 1/4). the mph calculation usually doesn't lie. go hit up the dyno again!

also, 90mph is no slouch... that's rolling pretty fast. but 400whp would be at least mid 90s mph.

socks

iTrader: (9)

I don't have that much timing yet. I think it's at 9 or 10* at peak torque and up to 13 or 14 by redline. Split is closer to 12 I think.

We didn't get to finish the tune on the dyno because the clutch would just slip any time it hit 300wtq. It may very well be slipping on the track. That and I'm on street tires still.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

FWIW a few degrees of timing (and split) won't make much of a difference if it's relatively close, but the AFRs definitely will. on that's been my experience, anyway.

good luck. i'll be ready for a dyno update

socks

iTrader: (9)

Well, I ordered the new clutch, but I think I put the hurting on my diff at the track this past thursday night.

Ordered an Exedy Twin Disc, counterweight, and stainless clutch line.

Gonna change the diff fluid, and see a) whats in the current fluid, and b) if it helps.

socks

iTrader: (9)

Prettiest part yet



changed the clutch/flywheel, clutch hydraulic line, rear main seal, and put neo 75w90 in the trans.

Also changed the rear diff fluid to mobile1 75w90LS.

Found that the powerplant frame was pretty well out of alignment (i had never removed it or adjusted it before). and temporarily took off the banzai diff brace.

Alot of the quirks of the car are gone. I can get it into first gear while rolling. The diff whine has pretty much stopped (but i'm not sure whether that was the fluid change, or removing the brace yet).

I love the clutch, but only have 220 miles on it so far.

PS, the clutch/flywheel swap was probably the easiest I've ever attempted.

socks

iTrader: (9)

Had trouble at the track a for a while, with the new clutch the first 10 passes were all 2.2-2.3 60's. Its got a learning curve. Anywho, I eventually got back into the 7's. Lots of room for improvement, but with a 1.8x 60' I netted a 7.96, but the timing equipment didnt get any traps.


Waiting to get it back on the dyno to get a finished tune on it for 16psi and 24psi. (most of these track runs were at 16-17psi)

socks

iTrader: (9)

just a little shot of the RX7 with my fiance's LS1 miata, and a friends s2000

socks

iTrader: (9)

So, you were right, wasnt quite making the power i had thought it was making.

On a dynacom dyno, it made 370whp on the tune I had been running at the dragstrip.

After 4psi more boost (running 20 now), on the dynacom, it made 440whp.

We're thinking the recirculated wastegate is causing a choke point when the wastegate is flowing. Its pretty evident in the graphs, but otherwise the car feels dang great.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

440whp, sweet! very nice.

and yeah, i'm not familiar with dynacom. do they read similarly to dynojets? i spent a lot of time at the drag strip when i was in college

also, are you running 20psi on 93 octane?

socks

iTrader: (9)

The tuner says it reads closer to a mustang dyno, and about 10% lower than a dynojet. I think he said he made 460whp on his car/dyno, and took it to a dynojet and made 530whp.

I'll probably have it on a dyno i'm more familiar with before too long.

I'm long out of college, but I still like the dragstrip

I am running 20psi on 93, but I do run 440cc of water at anything above 17.5psi. its a devils own progressive kit that starts to come on at 10psi, and is wide open at 17.5psi.

socks

iTrader: (9)

I was having some problem with fuel starvation in lower gears, if the tank was under 1/2 a tank or so, so I was running full tanks of gas at the track previously. And because I couldnt shed weight by running low fuel levels, I never bothered stripping any of the other weight for the track (full trunk, bose, spare and all).

Well, I got a FEED in tank fuel collector, and threw that in yesterday. It appears (i have 1/4 tank) to have corrected my issue, so next time I'm home on a thursday (besides tomorrow, track is closed), I'll get out there and test it out with nothing in the trunk, and quite a bit less weight in fuel.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

that's my ninja Socks!

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

anything new, socks? i dyno'd last weekend and made 342whp@12psi on the dynodynamics.

socks

iTrader: (9)

Nothing new, every step i take makes the car slower, lol.

Tried at the track on the new setup. It made 440whp on a recirculated wastegate, which i now have dumped. It made a significant power improvement i just dont know how much.

I'm at the point where the car will keep getting slower and slower until i put a real tire on it.

Last time the best was 7.9 at 94mph. So the trap speed keeps increasing, but i cant get the et down. it just spends soooo much time spinning. Ended up spinning through 2nd more than halfway down the track on every run.

I'd imagine the trap will go up some too if I can get it to actually... i dont know.... hook. lol

socks

iTrader: (9)

Wow, lots of new stuff, and some things since this post has been updated.

11/22/13:

"I just did some work, new stock differential with low low mileage, new rear control arm bushings, new rear wheel bearings, new fuel filter, plugs and wires.

I plan to rebuild the diff that came out of it (with 120+k miles) with a nice aftermarket diff, already have a 4.33 gearset for it (stock is 4.10) and a nice fresh set of bearings. I've done the math and I should be able to finish out the 8th in 3rd still (a 4.33 gives me about 101-103mph in third, and then 144 in 4th for the quarter mile; wheras the 4.10 gives me 106-109 in third and 148-152 in 4th) the car is not fast enough for the 4.10, highest trap i've seen is 94mph, but thats on street tires and lots of wheel hop(why the diff started dying) and wheelspin.

Also some ricer extended studs. But those are required to run slicks. I plan to run a drag radial (MT ET Streets 26.0x11.50), but who knows what the future will hold, so since i was replacing the wheel bearings, and you have to replace the wheel bearings to replace the studs, I figured do it now."

socks

iTrader: (9)

12/30/13:

"ouchie mcgouchie lil bro:




So, this actually happened on the test drive from the work in the previous post. I knew this engine wouldnt last forever at over 400whp, because it was an oem reman'd motor, with the 3piece apex seals, and it also had 45k miles on it.

On the bright side, I had the motor rebuilt with 2piece ALS (E&J) apex seals. I also had to send my turbo to precision (which took longer than having the motor rebuilt) for a new exhaust wheel.

During that whole process, I had the water ports for the turbo and throttle body threaded and plugged, rather than having to hose/bolt/clamp to block them off, which was always a little gangsta.

Only had minor kinks to work out, which is good for a rotary rebuild. Had the recirc from the wastegate on the downpipe rattling on a motor mount, that just needed some adjustment.

Also have a vac leak somewhere. Idle is a little high. I'm guessing its a fuel injector oring, as there are minimal other vacuum sources after the throttle body. Everything is capped except for the fuel pressure regulator and the map sensor. Think i'm gonna replace the upper intake manifold gasket, the throttle body gasket, the throttle body elbow o-ring, and the fuel injector orings. should seal it up."

socks

iTrader: (9)

1/26/14:

"Ok, so I've been kind of distracted with the miata, but the RX7 is still my toy, so back to it!

Ever since the motor rebuild, I've had a vacuum leak. A little inconsistent idle, unable to get the idle down low enough (1200rpm), etc. telltale signs.

Anywho, I suspected that the injector orings were probably one of the causes. There are 4 o-rings on each injector, and only one is on the fuel rail side of each injector. So I requested new o-rings from the company I got the fuel rails and injectors from (FullFunction), and they sent some same day at no cost to me. Thumbs up. Fail. They came in a normal envelope and I must have thrown them away. Anywho, ordered some more. To fix my vacuum leak, I got:

New Injector O-Rings
New Lower Intake manifold gasket
New Upper Intake Manifold Gasket
New Throttle body Gasket
New Intake elbow gasket (before the throttle body, but it was time anyways)

I took the upper intake manifold off to get to work, and I noticed that the vacuum caps for the unused vacuum ports were pretty brittle:


So i decided to pull the ports off, and weld the unused holes closed:



I "great stuff"ed all the block off plates and got rid of the old tired gaskets, and even welded the holes behind the ones that I could. I really don't want to chase any more vac leaks."

socks

iTrader: (9)

1/29/14:

"time to get serious. or break stuff. not sure which yet."





The last picture is a tilton valve. kind of expensive, but:
-if it saves my diff or my trans, its cheap insurance.
-If it helps me launch on slicks, well worth the price.
-if it makes things more comfortable on the street, icing on the cake.

socks

iTrader: (9)

2/4/14:

"Got the missing fitting from Summit. For the first time ever, it was unfortunate that they were in GA. Usually things come next day, even with ground shipping. But the weather last week delayed it. Anywho, I got it all in, and bled the clutch.



There is a slight improvement in engagement. Not enough to justify the cost alone though. I'll update if my opinion on that changes, as I drive it more.

Also, got my stock wheels sandblasted, and painted them up. When I ordered the tires, I ordered the tubes as well, but I dont believe I'll be using the tubes.

socks

iTrader: (9)

2/7/14:

socks

iTrader: (9)

2/9/14:

Finally had enough of the cannon out the back.




Compare to the tip in the pictures above (5"), this is just a piece of 3.5" pipe, straight to business. I think its a huge improvement visually, even having no "tip".