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Well after a few days of slow work, I got everything back together! The clutch feels fantastic and has even more pedal travel than before! The shifter feels great with the new nylon pieces, the clutch engagement is smooth and predictable, and she still drives fantastic!
I replaced the banjo bolt copper washers on the right side of the primary turbo and it looks like it is sealed for now. Nothing gives me more anger than a banjo bolt that doesn't seal!
Now I just have to monitor the coolant system for leaks and low levels for the next few drives!
Up next for mods will most likely be an exhaust restriction to control boost either in the form of a resonator or muffler! Happy New Years everyone!
So I got excessively bored and had to distract my mind from my grandpa and my friend from being hospitalized in the same day...This led me to the crazy thought that I should plug in my adaptronics ecu and see what would happen. Well the base map actually runs the car way better than the stock ecu. Less misfiring, better idle, better driveability overall. It definitely needs tons more fuel in the cruising areas but the car hits 12AFR at the transition. Skeeses progression thread helped with some idle and transient throttle issues. I got it to idle and recover pretty well on driving. The big issue I have is turning on the airconditioning shows a very odd issue. It idles for a little while at normal rpms but then all of a sudden it leans out and then bounces way up around 2k rpms and then recovers back to 900rpms. It also revs too high when you start it up at the warm state. Like it will crank and start up in almost no time but then it shoots up to 2k and progressively drops down to normal idle. I have no idea if this is a part of the cranking map itself or the post crank enrichment. I forgot to take a log of start up. Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the base map!
Sorry to hear about your gramps and your friend. This is a very nice build! Love what you did to the gauges and great job weeding out each issue. These cars can be heckin' frustrating, but the experience you gain and the fun you will have behind the wheel will be worth it. If you don't mind me asking, what's the plan for the teg? I was into hondas for a while.
I agree. Even with it running like trash on the stock ecu, its still a very exciting car!
I actually autocross and track my integra and was in the process of getting a motor and tranny built when I bought the FD but I had to put that project aside until the FD was in a driveable state.
The FD has and always will be my dream car but I already had so much in to my integra so the teg is for tracking while the FD sees the streets for cruises and nice sunday drives with the old lady and our corgi!
Holy hell I am seriously lacking in the update department! Girlfriend broke up with me so I ended up with tons of time to tune the car and get it running fairly well!
The car ended up making 290hp! It's very fun to drive and I love hitting the transition and being able to actually use the full rev range! The adaptronics ecu was very diy friendly and I think the simple interface made the process go by fairly smooth. I still have to lean out some cranking areas but the car runs fantastic and should tide me over until I get my single turbo build figured out.
Here's a picture of my first dyno graph that was my street tuned map on 10psi
That session was cut short because I had a valve stem go out on me after two pulls
Here is the final graph in blue line
I also buffed the car and went out for a lot of cruising with some good friends!
Before:
Hood shot:
(The swirls you see are from under the paint so it can't be corrected without a respray)
After:
During this job, I realized the car has been resprayed at some point! I also spent a lot of time just staring at the black because it is so deep that you can lose yourself in the art that is Brilliant Black!
Picture with my car and my dad's Supra:
I took the Supra to the cruise that was in my hometown and got to cruise the strip with some friends and I got to bullshit and ride with Turbojeff! His car is so well taken care of and I hope my FD will be just as proper some day!
Did a massive photo shoot at an abandoned mill with my buddy who owns an R32 and his girlfriend who drives an E46 M3! (I'm extremely jealous of their relationship)
All in all, I'm finally at a point where I can just enjoy driving my car for the first time in the almost two years of ownership I've had!
Not a day goes by without someone trying to get me to buy new wheels hahahaha.
As soon as my teg gets K20A swapped, I'll get some RPF1s and get the front bumper situation fixed
So I tried fixing my brake system through multiple strategies of brake bleeding and nothing could fix it so I finally ordered a brake master cylinder and it should be on its way next week along with a 3 port solenoid since my wastegate solenoid is not working and my car is only making 7psi. The car is still quick but it's not 12psi quick lol. I also plan on setting up closed loop boost control since I have it on open loop making 10psi creeping up to 12psi at redline. Just something to give her a little more OOMPH and so I can whoop on my buddies GTR! I would post pictures, but photobucket is rude and doesn't want anymore free picture sharing and I don't want to spend money to keep my pictures up. I can't wait for next year when my K swap is done in my teg and I can spend more money on this car again. She needs so many cosmetic upgrades...
I still have yet to start working towards the EFR 8374. My stock twins are pretty beat up but they still work like a pair of champs! Next year, I'm going to start working towards the necessary supporting mods. Start with the ones I can use with my twins and end on the turbo kit itself so I can get a lot of use out of the car and see how different upgrades affect everything.
The issue with my brakes is that the pedal simply just doesnt work until it's halfway to the floor. I have bled the master cylinder, checked for leaks, and bled the lines with friends and with a mity vac and after all of that business, the master cylinder seems like the culprit. I received the cylinder today so I will know by the end of this weekend.
As for the solenoid, my adaptronic showed exactly 0% duty cycle while doing a couple pulls which is why I believe it's the solenoid and not a wastegate issue. I need a MAC valve either way when I go single turbo.
As for the GTR, it's only an R32 with the stock ceramic twins at 17psi. Essentially bolt ons and a tune just like my car. At 7psi, he barely pulls on me so I'm confident that at my tuned boost level, it will take him!
So apparently my diagnosis skills really aren't up to par with this car lol. I replaced my brake master cylinder and bled the system and cylinder properly but for some reason, it still has the same problem...my brake booster operates like the service manual says it should. I'm truly at a loss of ideas and solutions...Are there any adjustments that need to be done or is the FD just a weird car for braking? The pedal is mushy until it reaches where the gas pedal is at and then it starts braking like it should. In my Hondas, I never have to use more than that to stop generally.
The wastegate thing is still not working properly according to my data logs but when I invert the signal to my new MAC valve, it clicks everytime. I applied vacuum to my wastegate to check for leaks and it doesn't leak or anything. I'm starting to think either there is a problem with my ecu, wiring harness, or there is a massive boost leak somewhere...I don't want to mess with my duty cycle as it was working fine for the longest time post dyno and was dialed in how I wanted it. The ecu shows all the right criteria for the wastegate to start working but the logs just show a flat zero percent duty cycle.
My TPS is giving some strange readings too so I might have to adjust that as well. It's reading about 85 percent throttle when I go WOT unless I really shove the throttle into the floor which gives me a 95-100 percent signal.
ON THE UP SIDE
I scored a set of oem FD wheels for 100 bucks and my friend is going to give me his tires for free so the FOOSE wheels will be no more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Could it be the lines expanding? That seems like the symptoms. If you don't have em, maybe something as simple as SS brakelines will help with the mushiness.
I don't know why this was so hard to figure out but my pedal adjustment inside the cabin was way off. I took out a lot of free play in the brake pedal and now it is super solid and works better than any brake system I have used!
On top of fixing my brake pedal, I adjusted my clutch pedal too so I know there is a full range of slave cylinder movement. Everything feels pretty refined aside from the bucking that I can only assume is from drivetrain slop (cough, diff bushings, cough). The weather is becoming extremely cold and it has slightly leaned out my tune. Since it has been 2 years and the car sits a lot of the time, I'm going to change my fuel filter and re-calibrate my wideband (Should have done that months ago). If nothing changes, I'll probably richen up my tune a little bit more to compensate for the colder weather and then leave it alone. Luckily, my dyno tune means that my ignition timing is fine so it's just a slight fuel addition all across the board essentially.
A fellow Oregon State Car Club member sold me his BNIB AEM V2 meth injection kit with the 5 gallon tank so I'm pretty excited to crack into that project! He only wanted 300 bucks for it too since it had been sitting for a year in his garage so that was a smoking deal I couldn't pass up!
The directions say not to mount the tank above the injection nozzle, but the only place below where the nozzle is going to go is where the bins are at.
With the internal check valve on the injector, will mounting the tank above the nozzle still create an accidental siphon effect or will I be fine? I would think that the injector would block the flow and it would be fine. Thoughts anyone?
While I didn't get around to messing with the water injection system very much, I did make some throttle body adjustments to the car as it had some serious slack on the throttle cable. The slack was so bad, that it was preventing me from going WOT...This still hasn't fixed my boosting issue though. I moved the 5 gallon tank around and it seems that no matter what I do, I will have to do some fabrication work to get it to fit anywhere. I have one spot in the trunk that will work, but then I won't have any space in my trunk. I was thinking of making a platform that allows my bins to open and lets my tank sit right above them (Kinda like the fold down wall but thinner so it allows bin access). My other though was integrating my sub into my bins and then putting the tank where my sub box is at. Those are pretty much my only three options with this tank that I can picture in my head. This would be so much easier if this was a race car...
I also got my ecu to pick up a speedo signal so naturally I turned on my two step action and made serious fireballs! The adaptronic select is pretty elementary and doesn't allow enrichment or retarding settings so I'm probably never going to use this feature.
Few things have been tossed around lately for the car but nothing has been implemented on the car yet.
I BOUGHT OEM WHEELS AND HAVE TIRES MOUNTED ON THEM NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
With that said, does anyone know if aftermarket Gorilla lug nuts will work with the OEM wheels, or do I specifically need OEM lug nuts? Common sense says it won't but I don't know in this specific application.
Once I get the lug nut situation figured out and there is a dry day on a weekend, the FOOSE wheels and tires are getting some burnout treatment!
As for the 5 gallon tank, I have found two options to make it work.
Option 1: Make brackets and small boxes to make the 8 inch subs fit in place of where the rear speakers are supposed to be and put the water tank under the rear strut bar allowing a butt hair more trunk space.
Option 2: Turn the sub woofers around and fabricate a smaller box and get rid of the fold down wall completely and put the tank where the subwoofers are facing resulting in possibly slightly less trunk space.
Ultimately, I just need to pull it in the shop for a weekend or two to figure it out but it looks like those are the only two options if I want to keep the 5 gallon tank.
I also ordered a Radium catch can so that will probably go where the battery used to sit in the engine bay as there is loads of room there.
Aftermarket lugs should work, the stock lug nuts are just an acorn style seat. If you need stock lug nuts you can probably get them off someone on the forum for way cheap.
Car is lookin' nice, can't wait to see those new rims!
So far over the past couple weeks I have swapped to a Walbro 255 fuel pump because I had one laying around. The car has been running a little odd lately and I think it's either my coils going bad and/or my fuel pressure going all over the place from an old regulator. AFRs didn't change but under light throttle and off throttle, it's been running rougher than usual and popping really bad on deceleration.
As for the catch can, I ordered the wrong fittings and I have to order different ones through radium because there is no off the shelf solution. I would definitely recommend the can as it has loads of nice features compared to other cans.
This last weekend, I took out my subwoofers and put in my 5 gallon meth injection system. It took a long time to get everything in place and working but I decided to run -20F windshield washer fluid as it's below 30F outside and i don't want to freeze up my system. It does great for cooling and my AFRs havent changed at all so I'm pretty ecstatic about it. I wired up the arm switch to my fog light switch so it's pretty stealthy lol. I left the limp mode wire off as my wastegate control still isn't working. I'm tempted to swap to the stock ecu to see if it's an ecu or hardware issue.
I got an FPR in the mail the other day and I decided to make a video on the install since Photobucket is stupid and won't let me post pictures so Youtube is now the future of this build log!
Here's the install!
Now it definitely didn't fix any of the low throttle stumbling issues that I had but under boost, it put my AFRs back to where I had them tuned at so that's a good thing! My laptop battery is pretty much shot so all tuning effort is out the window until I can get a cheapo that I can carry around and use. I have looked into loads of articles on rotor chamber equalization and injection timing and I really want to play with those settings to see if it can help out with some on throttle on and low throttle application issues.
I tested my injectors, ignition coils, and wires and they are all well within spec which is a good thing.
Also, I am now on OEM wheels and the FOOSE wheels are going up for sale this week! More on this later this week...
We did it! No more FOOSE wheels! The OEM set looks really good on this car and I'm pretty satisfied with the results! It does oversteer a lot easier so I'm definitely not going to take it easy around corners until I can get my RPF1s that I want.
NICE! The OEM wheels do fit the car really well, especially when you take advantage of their size and get some real meat on them. I'm in the same boat kinda, where I sold my RPF1's put on some stockers, and added a bunch of meat in the rear to help keep traction until I can afford to get the wheels I really want. I'll put a spacer on the front once I get some extended lugs on there to match the rear and fill out the fronts since the fenders are rolled a bit aggressively for stock wheels, but I don't mind the look and the "street" hook on these guys is great.
Looks like your tuning has been going well. Looking forward to updates.
01-01-17, 02:15 PM
