My What Have I Gotten Myself Into FD Build Thread
#126
Auxiliary Injection Pt I
Decided to make the complex twin turbo rotary more complex by adding water/meth injection. Since i'm running a somewhat skeptical SMIC, thought this may be good protection. I'm not planning on going over 14 psi, even if I eventually go single so this is just extra insurance. Added bonus is the cleaning effect. I decided to go with the AEM 30-3300
Of course, this means another major electrical job
It would have been nice to plan all the electrical out from the beginning vs piecing it together one job at a time. Decided I now need a fuse block which I wired up to a switched relay.
Besides the electrical headache, where in the hell am I going to mount the tank and pump
Since I don't have A/C or P/S, that's a logical place, but not for the tank that comes from AEM. I found a neat bottom mount tank (https://cometkartsales.com/G-Man-4-Qt-Fuel-Tank.html)
I opted to use the windshield wiper tank. It's a little smaller capacity, which is concerning, but not by much. The problem is how to configure it to work with the AEM system. First I pulled out the existing wiper pump (probably could have left it in tho) and plugged the hole
Then I needed to attach the level sensor and meth feed bung. Problem with the sensor is that it's threaded. It would be nice to somehow get a plastic nut on the inside of the tank to screw on the sensor, but no way. That leaves two options, get another sensor or make the AEM work. I toyed with the idea of using a VW sensor which has a push fitting vs screw, but that's like another $30 when I already have a sensor, so I decided to give the AEM sensor a go. I used a hole saw (forget exactly what size) that was somewhat close to the thread size, screwed in the sensor, then silicon sealed the hell out of it. Next step was attaching the feed fitting. I took the blank I just drilled out of the tank and glued it to the bottom. This provided enough thickness to tap for the fitting threads. I sealed the hell out of that as well.
Now onto the pump. This needs to be lower than the meth tank. Great! The windshield wiper tank is pretty low so where the hell am I going to mount this effer
I decided to mount it to the lower cross member. I cut a portion from underneath on the passenger side to accommodate the pump since the cross member is not structural
mounted...
Of course, this means another major electrical job
It would have been nice to plan all the electrical out from the beginning vs piecing it together one job at a time. Decided I now need a fuse block which I wired up to a switched relay.
Besides the electrical headache, where in the hell am I going to mount the tank and pump
Since I don't have A/C or P/S, that's a logical place, but not for the tank that comes from AEM. I found a neat bottom mount tank (https://cometkartsales.com/G-Man-4-Qt-Fuel-Tank.html)
I opted to use the windshield wiper tank. It's a little smaller capacity, which is concerning, but not by much. The problem is how to configure it to work with the AEM system. First I pulled out the existing wiper pump (probably could have left it in tho) and plugged the hole
Then I needed to attach the level sensor and meth feed bung. Problem with the sensor is that it's threaded. It would be nice to somehow get a plastic nut on the inside of the tank to screw on the sensor, but no way. That leaves two options, get another sensor or make the AEM work. I toyed with the idea of using a VW sensor which has a push fitting vs screw, but that's like another $30 when I already have a sensor, so I decided to give the AEM sensor a go. I used a hole saw (forget exactly what size) that was somewhat close to the thread size, screwed in the sensor, then silicon sealed the hell out of it. Next step was attaching the feed fitting. I took the blank I just drilled out of the tank and glued it to the bottom. This provided enough thickness to tap for the fitting threads. I sealed the hell out of that as well.
Now onto the pump. This needs to be lower than the meth tank. Great! The windshield wiper tank is pretty low so where the hell am I going to mount this effer
I decided to mount it to the lower cross member. I cut a portion from underneath on the passenger side to accommodate the pump since the cross member is not structural
mounted...
Last edited by TomU; 10-28-16 at 01:03 PM.
#127
Auxiliary Injection Pt II
and installed...
I used 90 deg fittings (http://prometh.com/collections/fitti...nt=13254893635) off the pump so the tube wouldn't be going into the fans or engine. I also mounted an AEM filter on the driver side by cutting a circle into piece of sheet aluminum that's slightly larger than the diameter of the filter. This allows the filter to rest on top of the aluminum and I can unscrew the filter housing from the bottom
and the injector... I placed it after the intercooler discharge, but far enough from the throttle body so it has time to fully mix with the air/fuel charge
Next is the level warning light. Best place would be in the dash, but I didn't want to cut a hole in the dash, so I opted for an unused blank in the center console. I can kind of see it when i'm driving
Next is the controller. Another "where in the hell am I going to put this??". I decided to tape Velcro hooks on the back and Velcro it to the carpet
DONE!
This was no small job to say the least.
I used 90 deg fittings (http://prometh.com/collections/fitti...nt=13254893635) off the pump so the tube wouldn't be going into the fans or engine. I also mounted an AEM filter on the driver side by cutting a circle into piece of sheet aluminum that's slightly larger than the diameter of the filter. This allows the filter to rest on top of the aluminum and I can unscrew the filter housing from the bottom
and the injector... I placed it after the intercooler discharge, but far enough from the throttle body so it has time to fully mix with the air/fuel charge
Next is the level warning light. Best place would be in the dash, but I didn't want to cut a hole in the dash, so I opted for an unused blank in the center console. I can kind of see it when i'm driving
Next is the controller. Another "where in the hell am I going to put this??". I decided to tape Velcro hooks on the back and Velcro it to the carpet
DONE!
This was no small job to say the least.
Last edited by TomU; 10-28-16 at 01:06 PM.
#129
Tune
So I had been running on a PFC with an unknown map for some time while I was breaking in the rebuild. Since I wasn't going into boost, I wasn't concerned about the map, however it wasn't that great. It idled really rich, like in the 10s and was hard to get below 1200 rpm. I know PFC don't idle well, but this was like crap. I really needed a tune.
Just when I got the break-in miles under the belt and was ready to get it tuned, IRP up and moved.
Ok fine, waited for them to get settled, then they make the bold decision (and right one) to install an in-house dyno. Problem was this created another 2+ month wait.
Finally, I got it into the shop
I wanted a reliable tune, no more than 12 psi. Was able to squeeze out 289 mustang rwhp out of stock twins with emissions
I must say the difference is night and day. It's not 500 hp, but it pulls like a freight train and more than enough for track duty. Idle is greatly improved as well. Cold, it's at 1500, but settles down to 950. A little high, but liveable. AFR is much better too, around 13.
Gotta give kudos to Ihor and his team. They know their ****. In addition to the awesome tune, they sorted an incorrectly installed check valve (how the hell could I have done that???) and fixed a fuel leak (make sure you clamp the hell out fuel hose if it's SAE).
They also fabbed up a cold side pipe. Much better than that hose crap
Just when I got the break-in miles under the belt and was ready to get it tuned, IRP up and moved.
Ok fine, waited for them to get settled, then they make the bold decision (and right one) to install an in-house dyno. Problem was this created another 2+ month wait.
Finally, I got it into the shop
Facebook Post
I wanted a reliable tune, no more than 12 psi. Was able to squeeze out 289 mustang rwhp out of stock twins with emissions
I must say the difference is night and day. It's not 500 hp, but it pulls like a freight train and more than enough for track duty. Idle is greatly improved as well. Cold, it's at 1500, but settles down to 950. A little high, but liveable. AFR is much better too, around 13.
Gotta give kudos to Ihor and his team. They know their ****. In addition to the awesome tune, they sorted an incorrectly installed check valve (how the hell could I have done that???) and fixed a fuel leak (make sure you clamp the hell out fuel hose if it's SAE).
They also fabbed up a cold side pipe. Much better than that hose crap
#131
Time or Money, Pick one
iTrader: (36)
I really do love your build Tom. It's simple and addressing all the right things. I wish I would have taken your route in hindsight, I could have been enjoying my FD a lot sooner instead of being a jackstand racer for so long. Now I'm too lazy to do anything to it since it's running well. lol I still need to do brake ducts and water injection so I'll be copying you soon.
#133
I really do love your build Tom. It's simple and addressing all the right things. I wish I would have taken your route in hindsight, I could have been enjoying my FD a lot sooner instead of being a jackstand racer for so long. Now I'm too lazy to do anything to it since it's running well. lol I still need to do brake ducts and water injection so I'll be copying you soon.
Edit: Make that you need three. The two above and a dedicated track car.
Or even better four!
[Not my garage by the way]
Thanks, but i'm more into function over form. No offense to all those that polish or powder coat everything
#134
Strut Brace
So with the Xcessive motor mounts and Banzai oil pan brace and Greddy elbow, my Greddy strut brace does not clear the elbow.
I am using washers, but this is not a long term solution. Does anyone know a bar that will clear a raised engine?
I am using washers, but this is not a long term solution. Does anyone know a bar that will clear a raised engine?
Last edited by TomU; 11-19-16 at 11:25 AM.
#138
Track Day
First track day in almost three years
Only problem it was a misty wet day
I had really wanted to test out my suspension setup, but that's not going to happen on a wet track. Oh, and it's got 22 turns too
Right out the gate, my backend comes around and I barely straighten it out. Hmmm, wet track or massive oversteer??? This dampens my mood on the whole day. When I got the car, low mileage FDs were a dime a dozen and the decision to track it was a no brainer. Now, and especially after three years to get it back on the track and who knows how much $s, I feel a little more cautious, which is not a good feeling to have. The day did dry for one session and I started to feel a little more confident.
My only pass-by of the day... (an SS Camaro )
I got killed by AWD and traction control
Only problem it was a misty wet day
I had really wanted to test out my suspension setup, but that's not going to happen on a wet track. Oh, and it's got 22 turns too
Right out the gate, my backend comes around and I barely straighten it out. Hmmm, wet track or massive oversteer??? This dampens my mood on the whole day. When I got the car, low mileage FDs were a dime a dozen and the decision to track it was a no brainer. Now, and especially after three years to get it back on the track and who knows how much $s, I feel a little more cautious, which is not a good feeling to have. The day did dry for one session and I started to feel a little more confident.
My only pass-by of the day... (an SS Camaro )
I got killed by AWD and traction control
#140
Rotary Enthusiast
It's nice to see someone properly building/maintaining and enjoying the car for what it was designed for. I would be a little on edge wheel to wheel on a slick track day as well but I bet if felt good to get back out there if it's been 3 years for you.
#144
All out Track Freak!
iTrader: (263)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Charlottesville VA 22901
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Hopefully I'll see you at the track sometime in 2017. Let me know if you do any events with: chin, pca, bmw, nasa, audi etc.....
#148
I really need to get a trailer to broaden my experience though. Maybe Watkins Glen
#149
Hatch Struts
So when I put the 99 wing on, my hatch wouldn't stay up
I got some clamps from Mazdatrix to keep it up, but it's a pain to have to put on a clamp every time you want to raise the hatch
I know there's a different part no. for hatch struts with USDM wings, but is it strong enough to hold up a JDM wing?
I called up Mr. Mazda Ray Crowe and asked for the solution and he shipped
Installation was a little bit of pain, but not that bad. You need to remove the rear quarter panels to get to the strut bolts and the hatch plastic to get room to unscrew the nut that attaches to the hatch. This needs to be removed first and installed last.
I tried it after installing one side and it didn't seem to make any difference
****, am I going to have to source JDM struts and be out the cost of the USDM struts?
Installed the other side and it stays up.
It doesn't shoot up, but it stays where you put it
I got some clamps from Mazdatrix to keep it up, but it's a pain to have to put on a clamp every time you want to raise the hatch
I know there's a different part no. for hatch struts with USDM wings, but is it strong enough to hold up a JDM wing?
I called up Mr. Mazda Ray Crowe and asked for the solution and he shipped
Installation was a little bit of pain, but not that bad. You need to remove the rear quarter panels to get to the strut bolts and the hatch plastic to get room to unscrew the nut that attaches to the hatch. This needs to be removed first and installed last.
I tried it after installing one side and it didn't seem to make any difference
****, am I going to have to source JDM struts and be out the cost of the USDM struts?
Installed the other side and it stays up.
It doesn't shoot up, but it stays where you put it