gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

saw this thing at drift detroit pro am. Called out the gt45 without the hood open, wonder if you heard me lol?

I can usually pick apart shop cars, this thing however is basically flawless

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Update,

Its been a good wile since i have posted. The ride has been to the dyno a couple of times. First time on the horse, i was having nothing but problems. After scratching my head etc. figured out what was the problem.

Replaced the part and went back to hit the horse again..

The video is from today, i was only able to hit 7k rpm as above that, was fighting me for some reason. Any way, will work it out in the next couple of days and go back.

For now
15psi 7k rpm top runs.

It laid down 620hp to the wheels, at 15 psi ,the boost comes on at around 3100rpm considering its a GT45R with a 1.30 ex housing.

All in all i'm happy with this monster, Once i work out the problem with upper rpm, will make some runs up to 10K


Till next time..

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

That is a sexy bitch!!!

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Don't remember hearing you, but thank you for the compliments.

Thank you
..


Here is another video of the engine view, you can actually see the plenum swell up ...

Grant M

Swelling up at only 15 psi!! Sounds amazing.

Are you concerned about it swelling up?

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, not concerned at all, hope it blows up, lol very dramatic
way...

All tin can plenums swell up..

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Where's the engine bay smoke coming from on the video Chip?

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Dump tubes.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

I dont think there has been any body kitted FD that Ive been a fan of, as I think the factory lines of the car are about perfect. Yours is absolutely gorgeous though, everything just works and fit and finish seems spot on. I would've left it wingless, but I suppose I can look past it . Really is a rolling work of art, great job!

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

Not sure if you mentioned it previously, but curious what spark plugs you're running?

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Thanks... ..

Plugs used on the dyno, are 10.5 Heat range all around, Before hitting the dyno i forgot to change them, 100% sure they are the reason the upper rpm were fighting me , fouled,,,,

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Nice. So, what is your ultimate power goal from a PSI perspective? Might consider refabbing that intake out of some thicker gauge sheet metal after seeing the "flex" in that video. But, hey, I'm certainly no expert.

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Well in a perfect world with all components working perfect 15-16 psi at 9.5k 10k should yield
690hp-700hp+

The flex you see in the video is not just from the psi but a combination of the back pressure, PSI and unable to have a good clean burn in the combustion cycle under heavy load in the upper rpm faze.




Next run will install new plugs as i get on the dyno, I set up my M&W ignition amps to give out more spark energy over 9 psi, as it was running on the low setting/ dyno . The good part about M&W ignition, it will fire fouled plugs no problem, but will lag behind at high rpm/load. The bad part you wont know that the plugs need changing till you romp on it.

If all goes to plan, than that 700hp+ will be more and more achievable.

Once 700hp get old 25psi and some good old race fuel will make it more interesting ...

Will see..
Thanks

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

^ Nice! I have a set of NGK R7420's in 10 and 10.5 I was going to be using on the dyno but my tuner said that the auto-lites 3932X's were working just fine. Have you thought about using them? I was a bit skeptical until we dyno'd them. Only thing I did notice was that the car seemed to start a turn quicker with the NGK's... Maybe this next session I'll do a back to back run..NGK's then Auto-lites. And i'll ask nelson to save the graphs so I can post them up on here. Also, that flex is pretty normal given the UIM shape nah? If it were Tubular and swelling...I would say everyone needs to wear ear-plugs because when a manifold pops from pressure....it can be damn loud. I don't think the swelling is in any way a concern. Love the way your car sounds. especially on that quick down shift... turbo comes RIGHT ON!

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Update..

Decided to take the engine out and pop the cork, Had some minor leaks to take care of so made sense to open her up, make sure all is good.

Well the after opening her up, the 3mm stock seals started to banana out on me. So rather than running another magical steel seal, got some 1 piece ceramics.

Fixed all leaks changed the main bearing oil feed set up etc..

Should have it started back up tomorrow, This time around should end up with a setup that will yield good hp back to back.

Will post once i hit the dyno again..

Mannykiller

I have not tried the auto lite spark plugs, One reason i might not try them or if more people can log some dyno time back to back stock /NGK or auto lite , will hold off , They are shorter than NGK, as the tip sits further back in the spark hole. The further back the spark is the lower your hp will be.. At least that's what has happened in the past using other plugs that were a bit shorter.

Let us know how your dyno say with the spark plugs.

Thanks
Chip U

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Chip what metal seals were you using?

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

Stock OEM Seals.. David...

t-von

iTrader: (8)

^The oem 3mm warped that quickly? Wow! You have any idea why that happened? Could be some important tech info here.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

^ That is interesting particularly after all the bashing I took for going another route versus OEM.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I know what you mean David. Oem 3mm will last a long time. They just don't like high rpm's. To_Slow however, hasn't reved his hi enough yet. So it has to be that the heavy 3mm steel seals don't like the large wide pp opening on the housing.

TDIT

Siad it before, will say it again. Love the build, though still can't love the front end look... Meh, personal choice.

I'm sure you don't need anyone to tell you by skipping the run in you're bound to have small leak issues. But since opening it up is no real issue for you it's hardly a big deal. On paper carbon seals should work better than the 3mm. Given what you're asking from the engine I think cabon is by far the safer choice as well.

All the best and thanks for the video's - they are awesome!

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

The 3mm seals were not that bad but still minimal warp, main reason to that, monster ports very little seal support. Regardless the Ceramics was the plan to replace with.

Also the weight on the seals are a draw back to the big ports. High rpm etc etc...

Any way, got the ride done with the ceramic 1 piece seals with updated main bearing feeds.

No more leaks anywhere, will put some miles on her before dyno, make sure all is up and up..

Thanks

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

So what brand of ceramic did you go with? And what spring are you accompanying them with? I know my set up is quite different. But I pulled my motor after the initial dyno tunning session as well... It was nice to take care of all the little things that were bothering me. I had a couple tiny leaks...and just certain things I wanted to "Clean up" or take care of.

to_slow

iTrader: (3)

The seals are NRS with there hard springs..

Thanks

Islander

iTrader: (6)

In that video.... sounds like you missed shift and went to a lower gear. Did you hurt the motor at that moment??
The sound changed drastically.