My First Build - Video Build Log
03-12-16, 09:28 AM
#51
I'm still waiting for some parts to show up. Mainly the fuel filter. It's been two weeks and I haven't heard anything about my order so I'm starting to get a bit worried.
In the mean time, I decided to restore the lights on the car. The headlights and fog lights weren't too bad but the DRL and the taillights were in very bad shape with a lot of fading.
I've been curious about this for a while and have been wanting to give it a shot.
The pictures & video really don't do justice to how well the lights turned out in the end.
Front & back taped up
Headlight after sanding
Tail lights after gloss
Finished headlights
Finished rear (The dim lighting in the garage doesn't do it justice)
Video
03-13-16, 09:38 AM
#52
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
First off, I've been REALLY enjoying your videos. As soon as one is posted I'm watching it. Keep up the good work!
For the front turn signals, instead of masking off and everything you could have just removed them from the car - 1 screw and one connector. I like to remove parts to paint as much as possible, overspray is a bitch.
Oh, the fog light lenses are glass, not plastic - sanding them enough to get tooth to accept clear coat might be tricky. Also, if you need to do more work with them, it's one screw, pop to the side, then unplug, they're really easy to remove.
Read my 20-minute fuel filter change writeup before doing your fuel filter, hopefully it helps.
Looking forward to the next video, and looking forward to seeing you DRIVE the car! It's 70 deg. and sunny here
Dale
For the front turn signals, instead of masking off and everything you could have just removed them from the car - 1 screw and one connector. I like to remove parts to paint as much as possible, overspray is a bitch.
Oh, the fog light lenses are glass, not plastic - sanding them enough to get tooth to accept clear coat might be tricky. Also, if you need to do more work with them, it's one screw, pop to the side, then unplug, they're really easy to remove.
Read my 20-minute fuel filter change writeup before doing your fuel filter, hopefully it helps.
Looking forward to the next video, and looking forward to seeing you DRIVE the car! It's 70 deg. and sunny here
Dale
03-13-16, 12:52 PM
#53
Thanks. I didn't realize that is was so easy to remove many of the lights. I also want to do a '99 tail light conversion at some point. I've read through your fuel filter thread a few times. Its helped me a lot to understand how to change the fuel filter.
I can't wait to drive the car either. It's barely above freezing here during the day so we're getting a lot of melting snow and a lot of rain, which freezes over night. I hope that the roads will be good in another month.
I can't wait to drive the car either. It's barely above freezing here during the day so we're getting a lot of melting snow and a lot of rain, which freezes over night. I hope that the roads will be good in another month.
03-14-16, 07:42 AM
#54
Got some good news from work today. We got paid for one of our little projects. That puts enough money in my pocket to finish off the first part of the build and get everything done. I also found out that I'm getting quite a bit of money back from taxes, which will all go towards the new roof. So... final budget update:
Stage 1: get everything running by spring
Budget $10,000
car $5500
Title transfer $735
Gauge cluster $158
Brake rotors 7 pads $300
Downpipe $100
Door handles $105
Apexi Intake $110
Koyo Radiator /RB Hoses/ Blitz NS exhaust $822
O2 Sensor $58
RE-Amemiya AST $178
High flow cat/midpipe $254
Two exhaust gaskets $54
Fluids $166
Motive Brake Bleeder $107
Spark Plugs $63
Fuel Filter $35
FC Temp Sensor $23
Power FC + Magnacore Wires $800
Ebay Intercooler $267
Boost Gauge $110
Boost controllers $65
Remaining $-44
Stage 2: Wheels, tires, suspension, etc.
Budget $3000
Advanced Design Coilovers - $1075Improved Racing Sway Bar Links $261
Remaining $1664
I went $44 over budget on Stage One to get everything ready by spring. I'm really not that mad because I was initially planning on using Stage One just the get the car through inspection. The DP, high flow cat, Power FC, intake, intercooler, radiator,radiator hoses, AST, Boost gauge, boost controllers, temp sensor, and Magnacore wires were all supposed to be part of Stage Three. I'm glad that I was able to do so much on such a tight budget.
The total spent on the car (no including registration) is $10645 CAD or about $7800 USD. I am very happy with this.
Now I'm going to get the rest done and sign up for the East Coat tuning session in Halifax to get the car properly tuned. Should be a fun time.
Stage 1: get everything running by spring
Budget $10,000
car $5500
Title transfer $735
Gauge cluster $158
Brake rotors 7 pads $300
Downpipe $100
Door handles $105
Apexi Intake $110
Koyo Radiator /RB Hoses/ Blitz NS exhaust $822
O2 Sensor $58
RE-Amemiya AST $178
High flow cat/midpipe $254
Two exhaust gaskets $54
Fluids $166
Motive Brake Bleeder $107
Spark Plugs $63
Fuel Filter $35
FC Temp Sensor $23
Power FC + Magnacore Wires $800
Ebay Intercooler $267
Boost Gauge $110
Boost controllers $65
Remaining $-44
Stage 2: Wheels, tires, suspension, etc.
Budget $3000
Advanced Design Coilovers - $1075Improved Racing Sway Bar Links $261
Remaining $1664
I went $44 over budget on Stage One to get everything ready by spring. I'm really not that mad because I was initially planning on using Stage One just the get the car through inspection. The DP, high flow cat, Power FC, intake, intercooler, radiator,radiator hoses, AST, Boost gauge, boost controllers, temp sensor, and Magnacore wires were all supposed to be part of Stage Three. I'm glad that I was able to do so much on such a tight budget.
The total spent on the car (no including registration) is $10645 CAD or about $7800 USD. I am very happy with this.
Now I'm going to get the rest done and sign up for the East Coat tuning session in Halifax to get the car properly tuned. Should be a fun time.
03-18-16, 07:35 PM
#56
I changed the fuel filter this week. It's the only parts that's come so far. I have a box full of parts scheduled to come next Wednesday / Thursday, which should keep me busy.
Changing the fuel filter was not very difficult. I followed DaleClark's guide and the whole process took me a little over an hour. About 20 minutes of that time was spent crawling under the car with the camera. The differential had enough room on each side for me to get my arms in there and use both of my hands. I could probably do it in 20 minutes if / when I have to again.
I haven't started the car with the new fuel filter yet because it's been cold & snowy. We'll see if the new filter makes any difference to how the car runs.
Video of how to change the fuel filter.
03-23-16, 01:04 PM
#57
got my ebay intercooler today. I know that it's just a generic cheap Chinese intercooler but I'm still pretty impressed by the value and the quality.
package. This box is HEAVY!
Packing
Intercooler box
Both boxes
Intercooler
Pipes & couplers & clamps
Fedex dented the package right on the corner
dented the intercooler too (I'm not going to complain. It's a small dent and doesn't affect any vital area)
package. This box is HEAVY!
Packing
Intercooler box
Both boxes
Intercooler
Pipes & couplers & clamps
Fedex dented the package right on the corner
dented the intercooler too (I'm not going to complain. It's a small dent and doesn't affect any vital area)
03-23-16, 02:23 PM
#58
Good stuff, sounds like you had better luck than me on the fuel filter change. I read Dale's guide but still spent a lot of time cussing while trying to get the fuel lines off.
Sucks that intercooler is bent but like you said it small.
Keep at it.
Sucks that intercooler is bent but like you said it small.
Keep at it.
04-02-16, 03:57 PM
#66
I haven't done much on the car. I wanted to change the spark plug wires and put in the FC thermo switch but found out that I had to remove the UIM to get it done. I also broke the pressure tank and some vacuum lines while removing the pressure tank. The vacuum lines are rock hard and will have to be replaced. I had already planned on replacing the vacuum lines this summer so I'll do the spark plug wires and the FC thermo switch at the same time.
Also, this pretty much means that I won't be making it to the tuning meet in Halifax in May. I don't have time to re do all the vacuum lines before the meet and I don't want to show up with a car that has problems and waste everyone's time. Guess that I'll have to go to New Hampshire at some later date.
Also, this pretty much means that I won't be making it to the tuning meet in Halifax in May. I don't have time to re do all the vacuum lines before the meet and I don't want to show up with a car that has problems and waste everyone's time. Guess that I'll have to go to New Hampshire at some later date.
04-03-16, 08:12 AM
#68
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Worked on my car ALL DAY yesterday, came in at the end of the day and was stoked to see the new video!
- You can do the thermoswitch with just removing the alternator and pressure tank. It's a little tricky, but you can get a wrench on it from the side and break the thermoswitch loose.
- You're gonna need a good used pressure tank. That has to hold boost pressure, and even a pinhole will bleed off pressure and cause issues. With the stock vacuum lines, heat them with a candle lighter for about 3-5 seconds to get the rubber soft, then remove or slit them with an Xacto knife.
- For the plug wires, you can JUST remove the throttle body to do the plug wires. It's not too hard to do. But, if you are planning to remove the UIM to do a number of things later, and your plug wires aren't shot, you can stand to wait.
- When you do the vacuum lines, you don't necessarily have to do EVERY SINGLE line. The lines that are baked on and solid aren't going anywhere and are doing their job, leave them be. You can just replace the lines that aren't on good, are easy to get to, or are loose. 20 feet of 3.5mm and 10 feet of 6mm from boostcontroller.com will be plenty for the whole car. Also, PM me for a set of my Viton check valves to replace the stockers.
Still loving the videos!
Dale
- You can do the thermoswitch with just removing the alternator and pressure tank. It's a little tricky, but you can get a wrench on it from the side and break the thermoswitch loose.
- You're gonna need a good used pressure tank. That has to hold boost pressure, and even a pinhole will bleed off pressure and cause issues. With the stock vacuum lines, heat them with a candle lighter for about 3-5 seconds to get the rubber soft, then remove or slit them with an Xacto knife.
- For the plug wires, you can JUST remove the throttle body to do the plug wires. It's not too hard to do. But, if you are planning to remove the UIM to do a number of things later, and your plug wires aren't shot, you can stand to wait.
- When you do the vacuum lines, you don't necessarily have to do EVERY SINGLE line. The lines that are baked on and solid aren't going anywhere and are doing their job, leave them be. You can just replace the lines that aren't on good, are easy to get to, or are loose. 20 feet of 3.5mm and 10 feet of 6mm from boostcontroller.com will be plenty for the whole car. Also, PM me for a set of my Viton check valves to replace the stockers.
Still loving the videos!
Dale
04-04-16, 07:34 AM
#69
Worked on my car ALL DAY yesterday, came in at the end of the day and was stoked to see the new video!
- You can do the thermoswitch with just removing the alternator and pressure tank. It's a little tricky, but you can get a wrench on it from the side and break the thermoswitch loose.
- You're gonna need a good used pressure tank. That has to hold boost pressure, and even a pinhole will bleed off pressure and cause issues. With the stock vacuum lines, heat them with a candle lighter for about 3-5 seconds to get the rubber soft, then remove or slit them with an Xacto knife.
- For the plug wires, you can JUST remove the throttle body to do the plug wires. It's not too hard to do. But, if you are planning to remove the UIM to do a number of things later, and your plug wires aren't shot, you can stand to wait.
- When you do the vacuum lines, you don't necessarily have to do EVERY SINGLE line. The lines that are baked on and solid aren't going anywhere and are doing their job, leave them be. You can just replace the lines that aren't on good, are easy to get to, or are loose. 20 feet of 3.5mm and 10 feet of 6mm from boostcontroller.com will be plenty for the whole car. Also, PM me for a set of my Viton check valves to replace the stockers.
Still loving the videos!
Dale
- You can do the thermoswitch with just removing the alternator and pressure tank. It's a little tricky, but you can get a wrench on it from the side and break the thermoswitch loose.
- You're gonna need a good used pressure tank. That has to hold boost pressure, and even a pinhole will bleed off pressure and cause issues. With the stock vacuum lines, heat them with a candle lighter for about 3-5 seconds to get the rubber soft, then remove or slit them with an Xacto knife.
- For the plug wires, you can JUST remove the throttle body to do the plug wires. It's not too hard to do. But, if you are planning to remove the UIM to do a number of things later, and your plug wires aren't shot, you can stand to wait.
- When you do the vacuum lines, you don't necessarily have to do EVERY SINGLE line. The lines that are baked on and solid aren't going anywhere and are doing their job, leave them be. You can just replace the lines that aren't on good, are easy to get to, or are loose. 20 feet of 3.5mm and 10 feet of 6mm from boostcontroller.com will be plenty for the whole car. Also, PM me for a set of my Viton check valves to replace the stockers.
Still loving the videos!
Dale
Thanks for the website Dale. I went to a few local places and they had never heard of silicone vacuum hoses. I'll send you a PM when I need to get the check valves as well.
I'll do everything at once. I don't see the point of disassembling a bunch of stuff just to have to do it again in a few months. The stock spark plug wires are still in good shape and should last a long time.
04-06-16, 09:52 AM
#70
I got my replacement pressure tank today. It took six business days to get from the UK to my door. That's super fast! Faster than mailing a letter from one province to another within Canada. And shipping was half the cost of mailing an equal sized package within Canada. Canada Post get your Sh*t together.
04-10-16, 12:15 PM
#74
It was really good. The engine had tons of power and pulled HARD. I turned around when the road got too bad but it was great. There was a little squeak in the back but it was just the brake shield making contact with the brake rotor. The brake shield was a bit bent so a couple of minutes of rebending sorted it out.
The duct fabrication video will be up next Saturday. It took me about 1.5 weeks to make the duct. After a 20 minute drive with some pulls the intercooler was barely warm while the hot side pipe was HOT. It seems to work well.
The duct fabrication video will be up next Saturday. It took me about 1.5 weeks to make the duct. After a 20 minute drive with some pulls the intercooler was barely warm while the hot side pipe was HOT. It seems to work well.
