Driver's steering rack boot is cut, looks like more work to be done. Power steering pump is out in prep for MR2 pump. This car is rabbit hole after rabbit hole lol

Why is the mr2 pump for?

The MR2 had an electro-hydraulic power steering pump, as opposed to our belt driven one. Using the MR2 one allows to low mount the alternator into the A/C compressor location, delete water pump housing completely, and mount the MR2 pump wherever I want, with some good -AN lines. As well as have less drag on the main pulley. It is a speed sensing pump too so it is only on at low speed.

Awaiting my alternator bracket from built2apex to low mount it. Got my gauge shroud, HVAC panel, and shifter trim from EVO-R. Did the non-sequential conversion (bolts in holes - no welding), and put in some M12x1.25x20 bolts ground short w/ teflon tape to block the OMP injectors.
Once I finish combining the dash and instrument harnesses into one harness I can put the interior back together!!!
Oh, and did a full HVAC removal, plenty of good anti-fog and got a good windshield sponge to keep it clear.
Still need MR2 pump, entire fuel system upgrade, and driver's steering rack boot before reassembling the engine bay

Still tons of parts for sale

Hmmmm tax return ideas????? MR2 pump, Fuel rail, FPR, injectors for sure. The steering rack boot. With all of that I should be able to reassemble. Perhaps some DRAKES stuff to clean up the dash.

Or screw all that and buy irons or housings to port, paint, and water jacket mod for far future? Won't be enough for a full single turbo kit..unless I go rotaryworks or ebay. Ew.

No matter what I still have no ECU so the car won't run til next years taxes.

What do you rotary gods think?

Gather round kids! We're continuing the great wiring adventure. The next chapter, which may involve rewiring some of the fuse/relay box, involves the use of a Programmable Logic Controller. Join me as we remove CPU #2 and parts of CPU #1 and replace with a modern PLC to run the turn signals, hazards, horn, rear defog and maybe more!! No more leaky capacitors, resistors, and relays to take up space and fail! Plus its expandable and programmable. Want alternating hazard lights, why not?

Stay tuned...

Rotary Performance fuel rail with 2200cc injectors is in. STILL awaiting low mount alternator mount from Built 2 Apex. Returning Chips Motorsports water manifold because they don't do the O-ring anymore and will be buying a E&J one instead (saves $100). Have a bunch of -16 fittings for the coolant system.
Been crazy weather here in CO lately so haven't done much, still need to run the rear lines for the brakes before final connections and adding fluid. And need to change the torn driver's steering rack boot....plus the wiring. Still have about a year before it has a chance of running so all good! Still shopping for the right PLC to do that project too.

OK finally got going on the PLC (Programmable Logic Controller). I purchased the SG2-20HR-12D PLC from FactoryMation.com. It is a 12v PLC with 12 inputs and 8 relay outputs. I also purchased the USB cable for easy programming. All of the software is available for free on the site as well. So this thing's the size of maybe 2 business card long and 1 thick (card on its side not the thickness of a card), 1 high. Not too bad, and it's expandable if I really wanted to replace a lot of circuits. I figured I don't actually need the horn going through this as it's not really needed to be on a relay, just straight wire and switch. So for now I have the turn signals/hazards, and rear defrost timer. The logic is pretty easy to work out, as timer functions are built into each relay.
Each of the outputs for the turn signals get a flash command for .5 sec on and .5 sec off as long as it is getting signal, and the hazard inputs (gotta split the wire into 2 inputs, no biggee) get an "OR" function tied to each turn signal, so if the flasher gets a signal from either the turn or hazard - that side's lights will flash .5 on and .5 off, just like normal - even with LEDs.
The defrost timer is even easier. It gets an "Off delay" command for the output, set at 15 min. So a momentary switch sends a signal to turn the circuit on and then it stays on for 15 min unless the button is pushed again which resets the timer.
So, being that I've removed the security system, and door lock timer, goodbye CPU 1 and 2!!!! I'll sell CPU 2 once I have this installed and ensure it works well.

Trying to think of what else I can use this for, I have 8 inputs and 5 outputs left, perhaps as an on/off switch for an electric PS pump - so only in 1st gear and reverse. So I can buy a less expensive EPS pump, the MR2 ones are getting rare and expensive - Astra, Volvo, and Mazda3s have some pretty cheap ones. That'd be a simple logic function too

If you do not get the USB cable you will need to program by hand using the small screen and 8 buttons on the PLC - so the cable is worth the $30, especially if you need to reprogram after installation.

Got the hazards to work on a single input, rather than two using a couple "NOT" gates. I have deleted so much stuff from the car there isn't much else I can think of to use this for, at least with the current hardware. It reads inputs as either on or off so it would need additional stuff to do RPM or condition based logic.

I dig what you are doing.

Sitting in Afghanistan, should have brought all my harnesses with me, prob couldve finished them.... at least there's combat pay which will go to the adaptronic fund

Whole bunch of stuff waiting for me to get home

Good ole Mouser.com has all of the ECU connectors in stock as well as strips of 100 of the terminals that fit them. If you want to rebuild your emission harness..stock up!

So the PLC I have (TECO SG2) is working!!! I'm assuming this is basically what the motec PDMs are, just they have more protections and CAN, and are purpose built - hence their $1900 price tag. The only prob I have with this PLC is it does not automatically run the program when powered on. So it must either be left on or have the buttons pushed on start up.
BUT IT WORKS TO RUN SIGNALS AND OTHER STUFF!!

It does work when turned off and back on! The memory remembers if the program was set to "RUN" upon adding 12V to it. So now I don't need to leave it in an accessible place. This PLC can run PWM as well, the possibilities are endless really. It's expandable and could essentially run any 8 Amp or below circuit (perfect for relay triggers!), depending on how much you can learn about logic programming.

Walbro 450 is in. yay!
Still plenty of stuff for sale.
Working to finish fuel system with new -6 fuel filter
Getting longer bolts and studs for the intake manifolds to fit the phenolic spacers, and new studs for the brick and turbos.
Tapped the primary rail for AN fittings - really easy.
Feels good to put stuff back on the car finally!

Making a large purchase from McMaster. Couple M8x1.25 500mm stainless rods to cut to length and stud all the UIM and LIM mounting holes to fit phenolics, with flange nuts to hold.
Once that's on I can measure for the -6 lines to finish the fuel system.

I'm looking at aerogel blankets and tape to use for heat shielding, lighter and better at blocking heat than....more metal.

Adaptronic 12mm coolant sensor on the way to go into the heater core outlet from the engine, and a knock sensor

Why are you using spacers?

That's usually something used to pull the last bit of power out of an NA engine. I'm not sure what the benefit will be on a turbo rotary.

I saw a tremendous difference in the conduction of heat in my WRX. The intake manifold was fairly cold to the touch even after spirited driving. It's probably a bigger difference there where the intake and exhaust are completely separated by an engine block, rather than same side. But having the intake inches from a ton of cast iron on the rotary, there is lots to of heat to soak into the intake manifolds and turbo inlets/y-pipe. Eliminate conduction with spacers, reduce radiation with blankets/wrap - leaves only convection. Keep the heat where it's supposed to be and not where it shouldn't.

It's also kind of a pet project and if it doesn't work im out maybe $80 and some time.

btw, I used to live in Trumbull, always fun to see Fairfield Cty show up

Intake studs are in!, fairly easy job. All studs now, no bolts for UIM-LIM and LIM to block. Ordered new primary o rings and insulator to put the rail back on, re studded the brick, both sides. Can't wait to put stuff back on!

12mm temp sensor fit perfectly into the rear iron's heater outlet, primary injectors back in. Time to fab some fuel line.

Long overdue for pictures. Got the manifolds and turbos mocked up to run fuel lines and start the W2A intercooler fab along with the coolant system fab
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0a0ad40bfc.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2d94f227f5.jpg

Looking good. Which W2A intercooler did you choose?

Going with the 600 hp kit from frozenboost/siliconeintakes.com with the Bosch Cobra pump and the 26" wide heat exchanger w/ 7 inch fan. They're right up the road so I can pick up rather than ship. Money sadly is an obstacle, I've seen some reviews about some of their other heat exchangers, so I'm going with the big one, and a separate tank for more volume.
I have a Greddy style FMIC but the pipe routing looks like trash and includes cutting part of the engine bay/rebar and changing the angle of the radiator...F that.

Mock up of the EWP and W2A heat exchanger, and the intercooler
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ecd41df1f4.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d476589d7b.jpg