Mock up of the new gauges!!

Disassembly has begun. Ripping apart the engine bay, rat's nest in the trash, fuel pump resistor in trash, working on getting emission, engine, and front harnesses out. (front harness is a bitch btw). If only I had more garage space.

Entire interior is gutted. Tons of stock parts for sale for anyone needing a return to stock or anything. Will be converting P/S and oil cooler lines to A/N. OEM oil pressure sender will be replaced with a better 3-wire one.

Rear and floor harnesses are back in the car! Time to reinstall the rear half of the car (everything behind the bins)

enroute: C-west headlights and sakebomb IGN-1A kit!

Wiring in new fuse/relay block. I used one out of a Mazda6. Provides tons of room for relays and fuses, more than I really need, so there's room for expansion. Connectors are all different though so lots of cutting/crimping/soldering. I have effectively removed the fan relays, front relay box (the one with the TNS relay) main fuse box (connects to battery), and the fuse/relay box (w/ EGI/circuit relays), and headlight relay and combined into one block, as well as removed retractors, air pump, fuel speed, and radio relay. I also put the fogs and headlights on the same trigger, which free up the foglight switch in the cabin for something else. Still need to extend the power lines and triggers for the fans, horns (old trigger came through air bag harness, need to add), add the hot start wire for the GPS speedometer, and run some wires for the electronic water pump for the future.
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A word on the Mazda6 fuse and relay block I used. The blade fuse portion of it has battery power slots and other slots controlled via relay - the blue relay, large black one, and the one next to that and the fuse puller. The square fuses are direct battery powered, as are the blade slots immediately left and right of them, the rest are relay controlled. Those relay controlled ones will receive straight battery power, you just need to wire in the trigger for the relays. You can see the metal inserts in the second picture (the bottom view) that run from the battery pos through the fuse block.

Be sure to have a diagram when attacking this, and one you can put into the lid of the fuse block for reference. Also, some wires in the front harness will need to be extended, like the fan wires (the thickest ones in the harness) so be ready to extend or completely replace them. The front harness is the biggest one in the car but it has A LOT of ancillary crap that can be removed/redone to trim down*. I removed the A/C so I have only 3 fan relays now. Though I am going to connect the A/C button on the dash to trigger all three relays if the Davies Craig Water pump I'm getting ever can't cut it.

I'm planning on mounting this where the stock battery goes.

*removeable from front harness easily - a/c, fog lights, fuel pump speed, radio relay (BOSE), A/C fans relay, and combining others. Enjoy!

A note on speaker wiring. When converting from BOSE to non-BOSE, you need to add the speaker wires for the driver's side rear speaker, and the passenger side speaker up to the floor harness. Apparently, the rear harnesses are different for Bose and non-Bose, but the floor harness (passenger side) are not - as it already has the wiring for the rear speaker. The driver's side speaker is just from under the dash to the speaker but the passenger speaker will be the entire length of the rear harness.

Currently building an excel file to be the master "wiring and connector" index. Essentially consolidating the Body electrical manual into an easy to use spreadsheet. Lays out and labels every connector in Front, Emission, Engine, Dash, Instrument, Rear, and Floor harnesses, as well as what wire in each connector does. It is based off the 94 USDM book so I'm sorry if things are different for you. It's a little slow going to build but it should help out anyone doing any kind of wiring job once it's up!

I'll load what I have here and if anyone has any suggestions for it please PM me so it can be as helpful as possible.
Haven't done all the X A or B connectors yet. Section C has the wire labels for instrument panel, so far.

The instrument harness can be absolutely stripped if you are replacing the gauge cluster with individual gauges, like remove a scary amount of wires.

Ya know what's fun? Pulling the turbos while the engine is still in the car........with a seized 3/8" bolt keeping the downpipe on..... Now I gotta try to get the LIM off with the turbos just sitting there, have the 3 bottom and to the rear bolts left. Omg.

Well thanks to the inventor of the deep offset wrench. LIM and turbos off! Now to get that downpipe off and begin pondering life's biggest question. Sequential, non-sequential, or single turbo (and what setup)?

Pondering done, as much as I love staying pure and the quick response of the sequentials, I also love the idea of simplicity and dropping weight. So, since I do not have the money right now for a single setup (eventually HX40 likely), I'll be going non-sequential. Have everything disassembled and stuff, might as well use this as the time to do things right, and I get to remove more wires from the emission harness.

OK who the hell crams a 3/8" bolt on the uppipe (or on a foreign car in general). It's the bolt that's bottom and rear so can't get a socket on it and a tiny 3/8" wrench is either rounding the bolt or just bending. I've tried adding some heat and whacking the bolt with a hammer and punch, no movement....I'm tempted to cut it and drill it out. really don't want to.. though I have a spare set of twins I may just salvage the center section. any suggestions?

If it's a cheap hardware store bolt, it's probably welded into your manifold. You can try a stripped bolt remover, but you may have to get a new manifold. Another trick to get rounded bolts out, is to weld a good bolt on the bad.

Good luck

Yeah that thing's not moving, I'll leave it for now. Didn't realize I can port the wastegate with the pipe still attached. That bolt is a problem for future Jeff and/or shop when installing EGR and wideband bungs. Got the passenger airbag out of the carrier/cover. I'm going to try to make it into a second glove box or something. Turbosource Davies Craig EWP has arrived!! Please check my for sale thread and help me afford my fuel rails, injectors, pump, Hall trigger kit, and adaptronic!

Went back to working on the LIM to get it all polished up....and sanded right through the rear secondary runner (it's not important right? lol). Glad I have a spare. Prob gonna just use the spare as is until I get an xcessive or elite, which will be after buying the ECU. Decided to ditch the OMP as well and run a richer premix. Simplicity is key, that's 8 more wires to remove from Emission harness, and lets me sell the rear washer tank, which I was going to use in the engine bay as a 2 stroke feed to the OMP adapter - tank for sale, OMP for sale soon, braided OMP lines for sale!

OK I believe I once stated that X-12 connector may be deleted if you go far enough, well I did it. X-12 is gone. X-11 had one opening and I put the W/G wire in it (EGI relay) to ALT from X-12. The rest of X-12 was removed for the IGN-1A kit, and removal of the warning lights due to removal of OEM gauges. The wiring is incredible how much crap you can remove depending on what you are running. My engine harness is about 5-6 wires now, which hasn't gotten the battery relocation job yet, so it will prob get even smaller. If I deleted ABS holy crap! what a drop in wiring to do that!

Well that last post about "if I deleted the ABS..." got me thinking, so I did. Pulled all the ABS related wiring out of the harnesses. Will be buying a Pro-Line Motorsport ABS delete kit to pull the ABS stuff in the engine. Before you blow up on me ------ yes I have read many a thread "keep or delete" "why remove a safety system?" "you think you are faster than the ABS?" I have done a good amount of thinking on it, have also graduated from 2 advanced/evasive driving courses where they randomly would turn off the ABS in your car (so close to setting a record in one).
This will also allow me to get the Chase Bays brake booster delete kit and drop even more weight and free up space!

About the ABS delete. If you are removing ABS, the only things left on the floor harness are: exhaust temp sensor, right door switch, and right rear speaker (non-Bose). So, I removed the door switch and exhaust temp sensor from the car, and extended the right rear speaker wires a tad from the Rear harness, and now completely removed an entire harness from the car!!

Removed the alarm system wiring and connectors that go to CPU#2 (kept flasher stuff...for now) considering building a modern flasher unit to replace the old board. Also thinking of combining what remains of Instrument harness into the Dash harness. I'll need to essentially build my own wiring guide for that....

Proline ABS delete kit on the way...from UK. But should plug right in and will look great with the red braided lines. Once it gets here I can figure out what adapters I'll need for the Chase Bays Brake Booster delete/proportioning valve/clutch line.
Block off plates coming from LRB Speed, nice and cheap compared to some other kits, and have every plate needed, comes out to less than $5/BOP. FFE Hall trigger kit on the way as well. So I can officially say the ignition system is done, between hall kit and IGN-1A kit it's g2g. Now for fueling...... Found a site that has Walbro 450 with install kit (not RX7 specific) for $109, so I'll get that alone with the Rotary Performance secondary rail with 2200cc injectors to handle feeding the beast, keeping the OEM primaries.

Decided to not worry about A/N lines, power steering convert to electrical, better oil cooler, moving alternator until after I get the car running and ECU tuned /done. I've gone into rabbit hole after rabbit hole and need to get it working. Those systems are fine for now and allow for some work after the ECU.

Please hit my for sale thread to help fund the Adaptronic.

LRB block off plates in, look great. Proline brake lines arrived. Very impressed by the kit. Comes with T's, clips, and everything needed to replace hard lines without ABS for the car, should just need Metric to AN adapters for the brake booster eliminator as well.

For my battery relocation I went to batterycablesusa.com 24' of cable, terminals, connectors, and 2' of adhesive heat shrink for about $75 shipped. Way better than trying to use audio power cable at like $7 per foot or something, and quality cable too - 2ga welding cable, have red and black.