NightWalker86

Part 5:











There was also a broken bolt on the turbo housings where it connects to the downpipe I had to deal with:



I didn't grab any pictures/video of the bolt extraction process but it was a fairly straight-forward process of drilling and retapping the hole (luckily I was able to clean the existing threads up with the same size tap). Ended up coming out great:



Alright, we've spent hours cutting, grinding, welding, etc. but we are finally ready to reassemble the turbos and move on to the Y pipe modifications. Here we go:







I also removed the restrictor pill since I only plan to run on wastegate pressure for the time being (trying to keep things safe until I install the rest of the fuel mods):



Now we can move on to modifying the Y pipe. This will be a lot of the same as before (cut, weld, grind). The only difference here is I had a block off plate lying around that was the perfect size so I didn't actually need to weld this hole shut. Here's the pictures:

NightWalker86

Part 6:











After a few failed attempts at welding this rod (it isn't a solid piece and was much more difficult to get started) to the inside of the hole in the Y pipe, I ended up findind a perfect block off plate I had lying around and used that instead:



I used another one of the large caps from the Dorman kit mentioned way above to cap off the CRV port:





The original O-ring used to hold the two pieces of the Y pipe together was dirty and appeared to have some RTV holding it in place originally. I cleaned it all up, removed the old RTV, reapplied a fresh coat of RTV and placed the ring back on. Once that was done, I then placed the Y pipe on the 99 turbos so that the RTV would dry with the Y pipe in the correct position:







From here on out it is just a matter of reassembly. Be extra careful to clean ALL the parts that you cut/ground as metal shavings will be everywhere. I only managed to grab 2 pictures of the reassembly process but it is pretty straight-froward and the reverse of disassembly. Keep in mind you might need new crush washers for the coolant lines and/or oil lines (I did) so have some ready to go. I grabbed new ones from O'Reillys for about $5.

I've got a lot more to post up but this is a good start for now. The car runs and drives on the non-sequential setup but I still haven't gone farther then down the road to get gas since I need to fix a whole lot more likes the brakes, tach/odometer, properly mount the PFC commander, install the 93 water pump housing, etc. More to come!

NightWalker86

Next up is to deal with the additional coolant outlet on the FC thermostat housing since I no longer run an AST. Ready for more cutting, welding, & grinding? Here we go...







With the housing off I first started by cleaning up the threads for the coolant level sensor (those with eagle eyes will notice the nasty scar from the elbow injury):









Time to get to work on this port:

NightWalker86

Good to go now!

Something that doesn't seem to be discussed much is that there appears to be cooling differences with the newer style JDM engines. I noticed that my water pump housing has no provisions AT ALL for a thermoswitch! The area where the switch would screw in isn't even drilled out. I talk about these differences in a video but it looks like (at least) the S8 motors handled the cooling system a bit differently. As such, I will need to remove my 99 water pump housing and replace it with my 93 unit so that I can once again run a thermoswitch and have proper fan operation. I also went ahead and ordered an FC themroswitch from Atkins which should be here at some point this week.

NightWalker86

Last update for today:

New fuel filter, plug wires, & "fluid level sensor/o-ring" installed:







Original fuel filter:



Just enough room to sneek a 3" extension in to get at the fuel filter bracket bolts: