The Monsterbox 4 Rotor
#1426
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
Monsterbox, look into the intended lifespan of mechanical fuel pumps. I don't remember the details, but I think a friend had reliability trouble with a mechanical pump that saw lots of miles. His oddball setup is probably a factor, it's a daily driver / long-trip car with two fuel systems (gas and methanol) so his mechanical fuel pump was running methanol for thousands of miles per year. This might be OK to do with gasoline since it has better lubricity, especially if you're premixing.
#1427
Shop is still unwilling to take any responsibility for any of the internal issues, only the exhaust manifold, but have still not refunded the exhaust manifold or oil pump. I've sent the crank off to a crankshaft machinist to have it blueprinted and measure every detail, lobe angle, etc.
Whether these guys want to make it right or not will affect their reputation, on the other hand, the motor is being reworked here stateside as we speak. People can argue all they want about me, but the facts speak for themselves. Chip Ursu currently has the housings and will be performing the CNC inserts to correct the leaking Pports. Rotors will then be side-cut, lightened, and balanced along with the rest of the rotational assembly, this is once we verify the crank was made correctly. My buddies brand new x40 precision crank has sloppy key-ways and will need corrective work. More than likely a Billet oil pan will be created as well.
Oil pump back from Peterson, full rebuild with new updated rotors, and the rear spline conversion. Will be ready for 7 gallon per minute Weldon mechanical for 1400hp on e85 once we rebuild the engine
Whether these guys want to make it right or not will affect their reputation, on the other hand, the motor is being reworked here stateside as we speak. People can argue all they want about me, but the facts speak for themselves. Chip Ursu currently has the housings and will be performing the CNC inserts to correct the leaking Pports. Rotors will then be side-cut, lightened, and balanced along with the rest of the rotational assembly, this is once we verify the crank was made correctly. My buddies brand new x40 precision crank has sloppy key-ways and will need corrective work. More than likely a Billet oil pan will be created as well.
Oil pump back from Peterson, full rebuild with new updated rotors, and the rear spline conversion. Will be ready for 7 gallon per minute Weldon mechanical for 1400hp on e85 once we rebuild the engine
Last edited by Monsterbox; 02-21-18 at 01:00 PM.
#1428
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I can't believe they not only used a crappy paper gasket on the front cover but the gasket was damaged!
You need this -
90-95 Cosmo Steel Front Cover Gasket (N390-10-502)
The steel front cover gaskets are awesome. No O-ring or spacer, just make sure both surfaces are clean, toss it on, and forget about it.
Dale
You need this -
90-95 Cosmo Steel Front Cover Gasket (N390-10-502)
The steel front cover gaskets are awesome. No O-ring or spacer, just make sure both surfaces are clean, toss it on, and forget about it.
Dale
#1429
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I can't believe they not only used a crappy paper gasket on the front cover but the gasket was damaged!
You need this -
90-95 Cosmo Steel Front Cover Gasket (N390-10-502)
The steel front cover gaskets are awesome. No O-ring or spacer, just make sure both surfaces are clean, toss it on, and forget about it.
Dale
You need this -
90-95 Cosmo Steel Front Cover Gasket (N390-10-502)
The steel front cover gaskets are awesome. No O-ring or spacer, just make sure both surfaces are clean, toss it on, and forget about it.
Dale
#1431
I can't believe they not only used a crappy paper gasket on the front cover but the gasket was damaged!
You need this -
90-95 Cosmo Steel Front Cover Gasket (N390-10-502)
The steel front cover gaskets are awesome. No O-ring or spacer, just make sure both surfaces are clean, toss it on, and forget about it.
Dale
You need this -
90-95 Cosmo Steel Front Cover Gasket (N390-10-502)
The steel front cover gaskets are awesome. No O-ring or spacer, just make sure both surfaces are clean, toss it on, and forget about it.
Dale
good suggestion I will do so thanks again
#1433
Spankin' the Wank
iTrader: (21)
It's really cool to see you pursue your dream no matter the setbacks. It shows us all that things are not always as easy as they seem from the outside. Big rewards require big risk and I'm glad your showing that. Stay positive and lets see the beast hit the streets again.
#1434
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Sorry to see you are having issues... Your attitude is pretty awesome but I guess it has to be with a build like this that pushes the limits to another level . Even if you didn't find the lower compression, sounds like a tear-down/inspection was a good idea at this point to avoid major issues.
I know I have said it before but a big thumbs up to all the documentation! I feel this is something that is getting lost today with our "facebook/Instagram" society.
I know I have said it before but a big thumbs up to all the documentation! I feel this is something that is getting lost today with our "facebook/Instagram" society.
#1436
Well well, here you have it. Sent the crank off for a full detailed analysis and blueprint.
The truth always comes out. Took advantage of the wrong customer this time pals.
We're rebuilding this car into a monster, stay tuned.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 03-18-18 at 02:05 PM.
#1438
more details coming from machinist
#1439
this is worrying as i have one of these cranks im gonna have to get it looked at
#1440
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
the crank is still usable but the keyways had to be remachined/corrected to fix off center issue of 0.015inches. The numbers should be 90*. Because these are off, the timing will be off, and different between firing / injector timing across the rotors. Luckily now that we have the data, we can manually program these offset angles as manual firing order numbers per rotor tdc in the haltech
more details coming from machinist
more details coming from machinist
I guess it would be easier to compensate in the software than to try to rework the keyways.
#1442
thanks,
so the keys are being remachined. The lobe timing can't be fixed physically, but the keyways and tapers are sloppy and this needs to be fixed. Additionally, from front to back, the crank is off center by 15 thousandths of an inch, this was contributing to the zero-endplay issue. I'll try to get a better explanation. I'm not an expert on this, just reporting what the machinist is telling me. He will be giving a detailed report soon. Why not show people what they are paying for vs what they think they are paying for right?
Anyhow, this should hopefully fix the end play issue, and give more predictable timing. Then as I said in last post, now that we know the crank lobes are inaccurate, we will modify the firing angles in the software, to specify exactly where the measured TDC is for each rotor.
If you imagine for a minute, that we had it all programmed at 90*, as told to us by PPRE, when you have rotors that are mechanically at TDC at 88* or even 93*, you can clearly see how dangerous this would be when running maximum timing in boost. All it takes is a few degree's to blow a rotary engine. For example, you think the engine is tuned to 12* timing, but one of the rotors is truly seeing 15*.
so the keys are being remachined. The lobe timing can't be fixed physically, but the keyways and tapers are sloppy and this needs to be fixed. Additionally, from front to back, the crank is off center by 15 thousandths of an inch, this was contributing to the zero-endplay issue. I'll try to get a better explanation. I'm not an expert on this, just reporting what the machinist is telling me. He will be giving a detailed report soon. Why not show people what they are paying for vs what they think they are paying for right?
Anyhow, this should hopefully fix the end play issue, and give more predictable timing. Then as I said in last post, now that we know the crank lobes are inaccurate, we will modify the firing angles in the software, to specify exactly where the measured TDC is for each rotor.
If you imagine for a minute, that we had it all programmed at 90*, as told to us by PPRE, when you have rotors that are mechanically at TDC at 88* or even 93*, you can clearly see how dangerous this would be when running maximum timing in boost. All it takes is a few degree's to blow a rotary engine. For example, you think the engine is tuned to 12* timing, but one of the rotors is truly seeing 15*.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 03-21-18 at 12:47 AM.
#1450
Everything will be overkill from this point on. Ditched the Craig Davis EWP. Not that it wasn't a performer, but taking no chances going forward. This pump delivers 55 gallons in flow, and should be closer to 65 at 17 volts on this car's charging system. Moving up to 20an lines. Pump is mounted directly to the radiator. Two outlets, one to feed the rotors with individual water ports for each spark plug, and the other to feed the front iron water inlet. Fans are the most extreme off-road version SPAL's offered, flowing over 3600CFM at 12volts, running them at 17v should be nearing 4000CFM. Radiator and fans in thickness exceeds 9inches in total. I want this bitch to sit at 170F in traffic for 2 hrs in 110F ambient temperatures at 2200rpm pport idle.
Want to thank Abel Ibarra for making the suggestion on the radiator company and insight on these engine internal screwups
Car is currently undergoing tube chassis front end, and tons of work on rear hatch. Taking no prisoners.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 04-05-18 at 10:19 AM.