either or.

depinning it- you can re pin it if you need to.

cutting, you will just have to splice them back together if you decide you need them...



can you show in one of your pictures where there was an issue with the driveshaft? turns out my ppf is cracked. (which i suspected, but my mechanic told me today that is def cracked and got worse on the dyno) so thats the plan for next week....

 

Hey howard.., yea I actually did the same thing. That glue is a total mess... But I just singled out the wires.. pulled them all the way through and Cut them at various lengths and capped them off...in case I need them later on. You wouldn't happen to know which ones you deleted form the harness entirely would you?

I'll take some pictures today of where the U-joint was knicking the PPF. After installing it though.. I think my PPF might have warped as well.. Because the tranny...drive shaft...well the whole assembly is sitting off to the passenger side a few inches. It's not entirely straight. I can push it over but you can really tell how much stiffer the PPF is..because it pushes back if I don't hold it in place. I'm sure it'll be fine with my Garfinkle Motor Mounts though.. It just might be a pain in the *** to alighn the motor up to the tranny.

 

Why didn't you install the motor with the tranny attached? I find that way easier.

 

i found the best way to in and out the motor minus trans is to remove the rubber from the stock motor mounts. buy a set of nylon pucks/pads.

then thread the hole in the motor mount and simply put a bolt up thru the subframe, puck and tighten it into the newly threaded hole in the steel mount.

this greatly simplifies screwing w getting the mounts over the subframe and down into the hole whole moving the motor back against the trans.

really simple and fast.

howard

 

My motors not ready yet

 

^i'll do that for sure howard, thanks!

Small Update:

cleaned up my started a little bit. there was a little rust on it and grime so I took the wire wheel to it.
Before





And I got a couple clamps for my fuel filter, so I was able to get rid of my zip tie temps hah



also here's a pic of the drive shaft U-joint where it was hitting the ppf and where I shaved it down

 

Also started on relocating my Front wiring harness and the relays/fuse boxes in the engine bey

 

Where are you locating them to?
I moved mine under the driver headlight without extending any wires at all.

 

Wow that starter is ballin. You should've clear coated it to keep it shiny

 

I can still get to them but you have to lay on the ground and stick your head under the bumper. LOL

Or you can take the turn signal out and get to them that way.

 

Also started on relocating my Front wiring harness and the relays/fuse boxes in the engine bey



my interior...



and the poor poor state of my beloved lady..


with the exception of the Racing Brake bbk the underbody of the car is done
Completed:
Install ARP extended Wheel Studs
push in new Wheel Bearings
Sand blast all suspension arms and front sub frame
Paint all suspension arms and front sub frame
Install all new Pillow Ball Bushings
Install Super Pro Bushing kit including diff mount bushings
Install Tii Clutch type LSD unit
sand blast Pumpkin lid
Re-locate fuel filter and replace with aftermarket shut off valved Aeromotive filter
Installed Coilovers Stance XR custom valved w/swift 8/10 spring rates
re-locate aem water meth lines
Inspect all calipers
sand blast all calipers/ paint
Clean all Heat shields
Lay Thermotec Heat sheild in entire tranny tunnel
Install New clean sheilds
Clean and paint transmission
Install C's Short Shifter
Clean Driveshaft
Reinforce PPF,wire wheel off all silicon and replace with strong welds
Paint PPF
Installed PPF/Drive-shaft/Transmission
Clean underbody of car, get rid of grease and grime
purchased Project Kicks r40 neo's
....and I think thats it for underbody/suspension right now. I'm still trying to source a used Trip-point Engineering Front Sway Bar unit in good condition. They are EXPENSIVE!! but soo soo nice with the adjustability etc. oh yes...and wheels.. but that'll come in the next couple months..

 

oh noes! good luckkk man, started looks awesome. you make me wanna redo my car.......

 

"I'm still trying to source a used Trip-point Engineering Front Sway Bar unit "

TriPoint probably buys their hollow bar and alu trailing arms from Speedway Engineering. i just bought those items and fabbed the rest. see my suspension setup thread in the Suspension setting for pics/details... and no, i don't have any idea where it is in the thread.

love it BTW.

howard

 

You know what... I think this is going to be easier than I thought. MY buddy who has tons of experience re-wiring says this will be his biggest job but it's gonna be just fine. Pretty much were going to flop the whole harness around the back side of the car ...like the loop around the front...just around the back. And we'll pull and extend anything as soon as we got the harnesss/relays where we want them. But were trying to keep the harness as stock as possible. Anything we can keep there...will stay. Bare essentials will go to the bey...like Running lights, head lights/hid's, my ignition amp..and water meth control etc. But everything else will be easily accessible in the drivers side rear bin

How about the brackets for the sway bar? I'll be looking for the info in your thread. Thanks much!!



I might paint the starter where it was rusting just to make sure it doesn't return.. We'll see.

 

ugh thats a bitch. i kinda regret putting mine there.. im kinda small so i can fit behind the seat when diagnosing but dude ur huge and it might be a bad idea... id recomend puting the diagnostic box somewhere in the engine bay so you can trouble shoot... since mines in the bin i need another person to trouble shoot...

flippign the harness is a great idea. thats what i did and u actually LOSE wires. you will extend VERY few. i used around 120 ft of wire

 

Pretty sure the entire set-up is like $500 from tri-point themselves.

 

Yea thats still a whole lot of money for one sway bar. Man last year I had an opportunity at seven stock to pick up a unit for 300... it was brand new.. and I should've just jumped on it..

 

Also... I'm trying to decide which rear over-fenders to run. I love the way the Originlab overfenders look.. My only problem is...how will they look on a straight sidewall with say 285/35/18's on there..? I Like the M-sports fenders as well..but the lack of pictures kind of deteres me because I can't find a clear enough shot to see if I really like the way they look etc. Also... you might have to run the side skirts and rear bumper to make it look right.. which I don't have any intention of doing.. I'm leaning towards the Origin-lab overfenders. Unless I can find a good picture of the m-sports fenders and I end up liking them/able to find them.
M-sports Rear Over-fenders:

Originlab Rear Over-fenders:

 

Why are you switching to over fenders when you already pulled yours? I think yours would look amazing, like speedjunkie, who in my opinion, has just set the bar very high (see attached).

If you do go with over fenders. Please mold them in, I hate seeing the lines next to the hatch in the back. The Origin ones are my favorites, some brands stick out too much and make it look like a porsche. Your car color is on your side on this problem though, black tends to hide that effect a little, on a silver car, those fenders seem to jump out at you like a porsche.

 

^ I'm switching to over fenders for a number of reasons. The first is that it'll save the body of my car in a way. If I hit anything with over fenders... I pull off the over fender.. repair it... and slap it back on. If I mold it.. it'll be a mess. I'm building the car to drive it hard. I want it to look good and it will because it's an fd... but some of the pulls i've seen dont come out the way I want my car to look. And I don't want to use a ton of bondo to shape it up. I really want to keep the lines of the fd flowing.. I don't necessarily like speedjunkies fenders. But it's also not my car..so it doesn't really matter. I'll most likely be mating the over fenders with Shine/feed front fenders.

 

Finally the front harness is free!


and a little pre-mocking and sizing on my V-mount..

 

like chudsoncoupe said.. why would u switch after doing ur fenders(do mine too lol) but the msport fenders are actually pretty hard to find (the correct ones) cause a lot of places show the picture as origin/chargespeed fenders.. so make sure you really watch what u are buying. as for the overfenders being molded in.. i personally think if u do new fronts then dont mold them.. if u have regular fronts then mold them. but just my thoughts.

 

^ well... after some long thought.. I don't want to have to constantly repair my body and be all extra careful when I drive at open drift events etc. I'm building the car to perform..and i'm going to hit things.. Having over fenders is going to be much easier and economical in the long run. Plus I really don't think the car will look bad with them riveted on.

 

as much as I dislike the un-molded fender flares, I must say, on a FD that is driven like it was meant to be driven, the do look awesome. case in point, andy's FD