either or.
depinning it- you can re pin it if you need to. cutting, you will just have to splice them back together if you decide you need them... can you show in one of your pictures where there was an issue with the driveshaft? turns out my ppf is cracked. (which i suspected, but my mechanic told me today that is def cracked and got worse on the dyno) so thats the plan for next week.... |
Originally Posted by Howard Coleman CPR
(Post 10743492)
wow,, someone was pretty lazy...
when i acquired a brand new harness a few months ago i decided not only to remove the un-needed wires from the engine compartment side but to totally remove them from the harness. i found that they are glued together where they go thru the firewall and i decided i didn't want to get into the bonding material. "should I pull the wire and pin out...or should I leave a little bit and cap it" just cut them at staggered lengths and cap them. hc
Originally Posted by muibubbles
(Post 10743589)
either or.
depinning it- you can re pin it if you need to. cutting, you will just have to splice them back together if you decide you need them... can you show in one of your pictures where there was an issue with the driveshaft? turns out my ppf is cracked. (which i suspected, but my mechanic told me today that is def cracked and got worse on the dyno) so thats the plan for next week.... |
Why didn't you install the motor with the tranny attached? I find that way easier.
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i found the best way to in and out the motor minus trans is to remove the rubber from the stock motor mounts. buy a set of nylon pucks/pads.
then thread the hole in the motor mount and simply put a bolt up thru the subframe, puck and tighten it into the newly threaded hole in the steel mount. this greatly simplifies screwing w getting the mounts over the subframe and down into the hole whole moving the motor back against the trans. really simple and fast. howard |
Originally Posted by Chudsoncoupe
(Post 10744839)
Why didn't you install the motor with the tranny attached? I find that way easier.
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^i'll do that for sure howard, thanks!
Small Update: cleaned up my started a little bit. there was a little rust on it and grime so I took the wire wheel to it. Before http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...814_181126.jpg http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...814_181132.jpg http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...814_183547.jpg http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...814_183556.jpg And I got a couple clamps for my fuel filter, so I was able to get rid of my zip tie temps hah http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...814_144622.jpg also here's a pic of the drive shaft U-joint where it was hitting the ppf and where I shaved it down http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...814_144838.jpg |
Also started on relocating my Front wiring harness and the relays/fuse boxes in the engine bey
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Originally Posted by mannykiller
(Post 10749706)
Also started on relocating my Front wiring harness and the relays/fuse boxes in the engine bey
I moved mine under the driver headlight without extending any wires at all. :icon_tup: |
Wow that starter is ballin. You should've clear coated it to keep it shiny ;)
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Originally Posted by thetastelingers
(Post 10750391)
Where are you locating them to?
I moved mine under the driver headlight without extending any wires at all. :icon_tup: How easy is it getting to any of the fuses once this is done? I have my HID box there, but that is about it |
Originally Posted by mr2dude9161
(Post 10750497)
How easy is it getting to any of the fuses once this is done? I have my HID box there, but that is about it
Or you can take the turn signal out and get to them that way. |
Also started on relocating my Front wiring harness and the relays/fuse boxes in the engine bey
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...815_195825.jpg http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...815_195819.jpg http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...815_210246.jpg my interior... http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...815_211334.jpg http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...815_210246.jpg and the poor poor state of my beloved lady.. http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...5_211310-1.jpg with the exception of the Racing Brake bbk the underbody of the car is done Completed: Install ARP extended Wheel Studs push in new Wheel Bearings Sand blast all suspension arms and front sub frame Paint all suspension arms and front sub frame Install all new Pillow Ball Bushings Install Super Pro Bushing kit including diff mount bushings Install Tii Clutch type LSD unit sand blast Pumpkin lid Re-locate fuel filter and replace with aftermarket shut off valved Aeromotive filter Installed Coilovers Stance XR custom valved w/swift 8/10 spring rates re-locate aem water meth lines Inspect all calipers sand blast all calipers/ paint Clean all Heat shields Lay Thermotec Heat sheild in entire tranny tunnel Install New clean sheilds Clean and paint transmission Install C's Short Shifter Clean Driveshaft Reinforce PPF,wire wheel off all silicon and replace with strong welds Paint PPF Installed PPF/Drive-shaft/Transmission Clean underbody of car, get rid of grease and grime purchased Project Kicks r40 neo's ....and I think thats it for underbody/suspension right now. I'm still trying to source a used Trip-point Engineering Front Sway Bar unit in good condition. They are EXPENSIVE!! but soo soo nice with the adjustability etc. oh yes...and wheels.. but that'll come in the next couple months..:egrin: |
oh noes! good luckkk man, started looks awesome. you make me wanna redo my car.......
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"I'm still trying to source a used Trip-point Engineering Front Sway Bar unit "
TriPoint probably buys their hollow bar and alu trailing arms from Speedway Engineering. i just bought those items and fabbed the rest. see my suspension setup thread in the Suspension setting for pics/details... and no, i don't have any idea where it is in the thread. love it BTW. howard |
Originally Posted by muibubbles
(Post 10750772)
oh noes! good luckkk man, started looks awesome. you make me wanna redo my car.......
Originally Posted by Howard Coleman CPR
(Post 10750784)
"I'm still trying to source a used Trip-point Engineering Front Sway Bar unit "
TriPoint probably buys their hollow bar and alu trailing arms from Speedway Engineering. i just bought those items and fabbed the rest. see my suspension setup thread in the Suspension setting for pics/details... and no, i don't have any idea where it is in the thread. love it BTW. howard I might paint the starter where it was rusting just to make sure it doesn't return.. We'll see. |
ugh thats a bitch. i kinda regret putting mine there.. im kinda small so i can fit behind the seat when diagnosing but dude ur huge and it might be a bad idea... id recomend puting the diagnostic box somewhere in the engine bay so you can trouble shoot... since mines in the bin i need another person to trouble shoot...
flippign the harness is a great idea. thats what i did and u actually LOSE wires. you will extend VERY few. i used around 120 ft of wire |
Originally Posted by mannykiller
(Post 10750769)
I'm still trying to source a used Trip-point Engineering Front Sway Bar unit in good condition. They are EXPENSIVE!! but soo soo nice with the adjustability etc. oh yes...and wheels.. but that'll come in the next couple months..:egrin:
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Yea thats still a whole lot of money for one sway bar. Man last year I had an opportunity at seven stock to pick up a unit for 300... it was brand new.. and I should've just jumped on it..
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Also... I'm trying to decide which rear over-fenders to run. I love the way the Originlab overfenders look.. My only problem is...how will they look on a straight sidewall with say 285/35/18's on there..? I Like the M-sports fenders as well..but the lack of pictures kind of deteres me because I can't find a clear enough shot to see if I really like the way they look etc. Also... you might have to run the side skirts and rear bumper to make it look right.. which I don't have any intention of doing.. I'm leaning towards the Origin-lab overfenders. Unless I can find a good picture of the m-sports fenders and I end up liking them/able to find them.
M-sports Rear Over-fenders: http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...229_top_pc.jpg Originlab Rear Over-fenders: http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...r/IMGP2868.jpg |
3 Attachment(s)
Why are you switching to over fenders when you already pulled yours? I think yours would look amazing, like speedjunkie, who in my opinion, has just set the bar very high (see attached).
If you do go with over fenders. Please mold them in, I hate seeing the lines next to the hatch in the back. The Origin ones are my favorites, some brands stick out too much and make it look like a porsche. Your car color is on your side on this problem though, black tends to hide that effect a little, on a silver car, those fenders seem to jump out at you like a porsche. |
^ I'm switching to over fenders for a number of reasons. The first is that it'll save the body of my car in a way. If I hit anything with over fenders... I pull off the over fender.. repair it... and slap it back on. If I mold it.. it'll be a mess. I'm building the car to drive it hard. I want it to look good and it will because it's an fd... but some of the pulls i've seen dont come out the way I want my car to look. And I don't want to use a ton of bondo to shape it up. I really want to keep the lines of the fd flowing.. I don't necessarily like speedjunkies fenders. But it's also not my car..so it doesn't really matter. I'll most likely be mating the over fenders with Shine/feed front fenders.:icon_tup:
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Finally the front harness is free!
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...818_190904.jpg and a little pre-mocking and sizing on my V-mount.. http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...818_204642.jpg |
like chudsoncoupe said.. why would u switch after doing ur fenders(do mine too lol) but the msport fenders are actually pretty hard to find (the correct ones) cause a lot of places show the picture as origin/chargespeed fenders.. so make sure you really watch what u are buying. as for the overfenders being molded in.. i personally think if u do new fronts then dont mold them.. if u have regular fronts then mold them. but just my thoughts.
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^ well... after some long thought.. I don't want to have to constantly repair my body and be all extra careful when I drive at open drift events etc. I'm building the car to perform..and i'm going to hit things.. Having over fenders is going to be much easier and economical in the long run. Plus I really don't think the car will look bad with them riveted on.
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as much as I dislike the un-molded fender flares, I must say, on a FD that is driven like it was meant to be driven, the do look awesome. case in point, andy's FD
http://www.1320video.com/img/album28...9298.sized.jpg http://www.1320video.com/img/album28...8076.sized.jpg |
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