JHew84

iTrader: (9)

Car looks good as always Rich! Didn't notice if you addressed another guys question about why you didn't go the Vmount route, but do you think that's a possibility in the future? Or are you perfectly content with the FMIC?

I really do enjoy looking over your attention to detail, that car is just amazing, keep up the good work .

moehler

iTrader: (12)

Hey Rich - I dont know what size my momo steering wheel is, but it's small enough that I cant see the top of my tachometer or my turn signals. I also did the manual steering loop line conversion, so...

Advantages: there is a lot of arm room and I'm 6ft tall with long arms. If I'm going over 5 mph, the small wheel gives great response with manual steering. It almost feels like a video game with the small wheel, people who sit in my car love the way the driver positioning feels.

Disadvantages: I can't see the turn signals unless I move my head out of a natural driving position, I end up being that guy who has his signal on for two miles after I turn sometimes . If I'm parking and moving less that 5 mhp, it's tough to work with the manual steering. I don't mind not seeing the top of the tach (with a stock 93 gauge), but my favorite position for a boost gauge is a column mount gauge - given that my view of the tach is already obscured, I really can't add a column mount boost guage.

Overall, I have not wanted to change it at all after driving it for a year… the positioning of a smaller wheel in a small “cockpit” makes for a great driving experience.

Farkel Jr.

iTrader: (10)

Nice work!

and 330mm or nothing

turbo10th

iTrader: (6)

Hey Rich, where did you pick up those URAS combos?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

referring the the steering wheel.. i had a suede wheel for around 2 years. It's feels great in the hands, extremely grippy, nearly like sandpaper(only it doesn't hurt)

the biggest downfall....whenever the weather is humid, the wheel turns mushy and sticky. maybe it was because my wheel was worn heavily...but i hated how damp it would feel.

as for wheel dia, i prefer the 350mm on a non-power steering car. if you still have PS go for the smaller one...

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

Interior looks great. If you decide to sell your 350mm wheel, PM me. That's the exact wheel that I'm going to order this winter for my FB.

Kanho

iTrader: (3)

Hey rich!

first, I always drive my car around where ever I go and I find my self in situation where I have to park the car or stuck in traffic often. No PS and smaller SW is very difficult to deal with in these situations (specialy if you are runing 255 up infront). Unless you barely use your car. That is what I would consider in my decision. I had the honor to drive Gordon's car and he has 360mm. It was such a pain to move it around his garage. obviously once you get above 5mph no problems there. As for the swede, I think it feels great and the color is nice to. The only downfall is when the hands are sweaty or it starts wearing down faster and it makes white spots.

Just my opinion.

By the way, I'm interested in your Profec B contoler with the solenoid (the square box that goes in the engine bay with two inlets) let me know.

Andrew

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I ran a 330mm Sparco Ring for a while. It was Suede. I didn't like the 330mm size. YMMV.

The suede does require more maintenance also.

Julian

iTrader: (14)

My 330mm Sparco covers up the tops of my gauges. Suede wheels look great at first and are great for track, especially with gloves.. like Velcro, but plan to replace annually or so or switch back and forth to a smooth wheel (advantage of QR hubs). At least they don't cost too much. If I used my car on the road more, I would use the 330 suede for track and 350 leather for street.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

I had a 330 leather steering wheel and I loved it with PS around town, didn't do any track driving with that car.

Rich, I was looking at your pictures in your album and I had a question about the excessive LIM. What size injectors are you using and how many? Also what ECU are you using? I didn't think you could use the PFC with extra injectors. I really like that LIM and I'm trying to figure out if/how I could make it work without adding extra injectors.

edit: nevermind, found basically the answer I was looking for on page 6 and 7 (post 141 and 167). Now I have two new ones. How did you seal of the unused injector bungs? Which ones are you still using? It appears to be the ones on the larger intake runners, but I can't be sure so I thought I would ask.

Nyevo7

Very nice touches indeed

Julian

iTrader: (14)

The Excessive LIM comes with bung plugs to fill the two extra injector holes.

The LIM takes some grinding to get the stock secondary rail to fit.

SPEED_NYC

iTrader: (3)

all i can say is WOW!! damn Rich, I figured since you've been lurking in the drag racing section, i should come over here and check things out... I had no idea you had gone this far! the car was flawless before, i thought you were just freshning the motor, but you've really outdone yourself here.

This is what baby FD's dream of becoming when they grow up. JOB VERY WELL DONE. just when i thought my rebuild was coming to a close you make me want to attack the interior now and spend more $$ I don't have

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Thanks to Alberto, Andrew and all those who took the time to post their experiences with suede vs leather and 330mm vs 350mm. It sounds like I'm probably better off sticking with what I have.

Thanks for the compliments by all, much appreciated

I ran an M2 Large SMIC for many years and decided to try a FMIC because, well.... I've always wanted one. Maybe it's the ricer in me . The M2 worked pretty well but definitely heat soaked badly.

I've posted many times about the Blitz, but in a nutshell--- I love it. Easy install, doesn't block the entire mouth of the bumper so allows air into the engine bay, relatively short piping so not as much boost lag.

Awesome, thanks for your take on it Matt. You're 6 feet? I somehow thought we were about the same height

Matt II, they were sourced from Japan but unfortunately are discontinued

I'm running 870/1680 top feeds with the center bungs plugged. I used the provided plugs and some silicone. Power FC and using the outer injectors holes for my secondaries-- with any 'stock fitment' fuel rail, you'll need to use the outers.

Damn, Roen thanks man. You've got me blushing over here

When am I going to get to see your 7 million rwhp beast ?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

I can think of something. Rev rev

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Wow the M2 heat soaks bad? I would have thought the FMIC would give you higher temps in general. Interesting stuff.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

By design it sits in the engine bay behind and above the radiator..... not exactly the coolest spot

The Blitz gives me lower AITs and my coolant temps weren't negatively affected. Lots of variables can change coolant temps, but the FMIC didn't hurt engine cooling at all.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

yeah stock mount IC's tend to heat soak pretty bad. the problem is that all of the hot air from the radiator passes right over the end tanks and radiates up at the bottom of the ic core. even if you have them proper ducted and everything...it will still heatsoack.

i made a custom smic to the same specs at the pettit cool charge iii, and it was heat soaking like a mofugga in stop & go driving conditions. i covered the end tanks with thermal reflective heat shielding and attached a 12" fan on a switch and it helped out a lot.

smic is definitely played out. rich's fmic looks great - i think that or v mount are definitely the best options these days.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Had I known a bit more about this stuff in the beginning I would have gone FMIC. Vmount costs to much in labor and I had no idea that the SMIC would be worse or that much worse than an FMIC in stop ang go. For now, I'm doing exactly what you did. I already have thermal tape and a fan ready at IRP.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

nah i mean my setup is fine with the thermal shielding and everything. definitely much better than stock and keeps air temps nice and cool. even with a V mount you're gonna get heatsoak in stop and go traffic unless you put the rad on top.

theres nothing wrong with a smic if its done right, but many of the "drop in" kits aren't done right, so they heatsoak.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Chiming is.
(YAWN) FMIC vs SMIC...here we go again. LOL

If'n I may be sol bold to sum it up - depends on your purpose. Street, Drag, or Track. And before the SMIC is poopooed I've never seen a FMIC that doesn't have cooling issues *on the track* w00t!

The SMIC will heat soak badly though...if the car is stationary! Soln: small e/fan and coated pipes. Easy peasy lemon squeezy

But Rich...we all love you man!

Regards,
Crispy

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

Ai>***

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Recently put my new track setup on the scales:

18x10 +38 RPF1= 18.5 lbs

18x9.5 +45 RPF1 with 255/35 Yoko AD08= 44 lbs
18x10 +38 RPF1 with 265/35 Yoko AD08= 45.5 lbs

I'm curious to weigh my 17 inch Fikse setup and compare the weight difference.

dhahlen

iTrader: (5)

I hate you so much right now Rich. i was going to do a whole set of 94-95 panels and clusters... seems that'll be impossible now.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Well Darren, you can always get the parts from Japan

I received my Hella horn cages back in the mail with a nice wrinkle-coat black finish. Also some bling bling for a local guy

Two pics, one with flash and one without.