Kilo Racing 3 Rotor FD Conversion
#4452
David, i'm running bosch ev14 2000cc primaries and secondaries on my car . I like Adaptronic personally and have had good success in a lot of cars, the internet is full of whiners. Not that Haltech isn't good, its a great option too. My only down vote would be for Microtech as a street car ECU.
thewird
thewird
I really know very little of the Adaptronic issues. Heard of the internet battle that has occurred but haven't gone to look.
Kilo is a Microtech expert and knows how to get the most of the ECU. It's just that Microtech hasn't kept up with the times and there are many better options available now.
Let Kilo get it wrapped up and I am sure you will be pleased.
#4454
^ Thanks. Thought I'd get more comments on the wheel. I am pretty picky and the wheel recovering is some of the nicest work I have seen. Better than OEM quality and that is hard to find.
Cost me around $575 for what I had done. Basically, I got everything they offer in the wheel so that is the top end in cost. They start around $379. Here are some details:
- Wheel $379 (the same cost when done in solid black leather, combine perforated and solid black leathers and Alcantara or all Alcantara).
- Extra padding $50 (replacing the existing padding because when the old leather removed, the padding will be gone as well).
- Adding a stripe $30 (any color at 12 o'clock).
- Colored/Style stitching (no extra charge).
- Shipping $25.
- We also have an option to add the thumb rests (bumps at 10 and 2 o'clock for sporty look) for $100 (if interested).
Turn around time about 4-5 days.
They have a number of before and after shots posted on their website. I found a Porsche wheel I really liked and used that for my wheel. Super nice guys and great work.
Dallas Custom Steering Wheel
Cost me around $575 for what I had done. Basically, I got everything they offer in the wheel so that is the top end in cost. They start around $379. Here are some details:
- Wheel $379 (the same cost when done in solid black leather, combine perforated and solid black leathers and Alcantara or all Alcantara).
- Extra padding $50 (replacing the existing padding because when the old leather removed, the padding will be gone as well).
- Adding a stripe $30 (any color at 12 o'clock).
- Colored/Style stitching (no extra charge).
- Shipping $25.
- We also have an option to add the thumb rests (bumps at 10 and 2 o'clock for sporty look) for $100 (if interested).
Turn around time about 4-5 days.
They have a number of before and after shots posted on their website. I found a Porsche wheel I really liked and used that for my wheel. Super nice guys and great work.
Dallas Custom Steering Wheel
#4456
^ Thanks Phil. I am really pleased with how it turned out.
On another note, anyone know the specs/where to buy the circular flat metal push clips that hold the flat rubber hood pieces in place? These are the rubber pieces that are behind the headlights when you close the hood. I think they serve as weather guards. The pieces push into place on plastic pins and then they are secured with the tiny flat metal push clips. Can't seem to locate them in the parts diagrams.
On another note, anyone know the specs/where to buy the circular flat metal push clips that hold the flat rubber hood pieces in place? These are the rubber pieces that are behind the headlights when you close the hood. I think they serve as weather guards. The pieces push into place on plastic pins and then they are secured with the tiny flat metal push clips. Can't seem to locate them in the parts diagrams.
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#4457
Rx7 Wagon
iTrader: (16)
^ Thanks Phil. I am really pleased with how it turned out.
On another note, anyone know the specs/where to buy the circular flat metal push clips that hold the flat rubber hood pieces in place? These are the rubber pieces that are behind the headlights when you close the hood. I think they serve as weather guards. The pieces push into place on plastic pins and then they are secured with the tiny flat metal push clips. Can't seem to locate them in the parts diagrams.
On another note, anyone know the specs/where to buy the circular flat metal push clips that hold the flat rubber hood pieces in place? These are the rubber pieces that are behind the headlights when you close the hood. I think they serve as weather guards. The pieces push into place on plastic pins and then they are secured with the tiny flat metal push clips. Can't seem to locate them in the parts diagrams.
Last edited by Narfle; 02-07-17 at 05:47 PM.
#4460
^ Here is a pic of what the clips look like:
The pic is from my instrument cluster but you get the idea. The ones for the rubber hood pieces are a bit larger than the ones in the pic. If anyone knows where to buy these, I'd appreciate it.
If not, I will swing by Ace Hardware and see what they have.
The pic is from my instrument cluster but you get the idea. The ones for the rubber hood pieces are a bit larger than the ones in the pic. If anyone knows where to buy these, I'd appreciate it.
If not, I will swing by Ace Hardware and see what they have.
#4461
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: massachusetts
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^ Here is a pic of what the clips look like:
The pic is from my instrument cluster but you get the idea. The ones for the rubber hood pieces are a bit larger than the ones in the pic. If anyone knows where to buy these, I'd appreciate it.
If not, I will swing by Ace Hardware and see what they have.
The pic is from my instrument cluster but you get the idea. The ones for the rubber hood pieces are a bit larger than the ones in the pic. If anyone knows where to buy these, I'd appreciate it.
If not, I will swing by Ace Hardware and see what they have.
#4464
Full Member
Just caught up on all the updates from December, congrats on getting the car back finally and getting a chance to enjoy it. Steering wheel really adds a nice touch on the interior. I know where St. Lucia Lane is...I live only 2 miles away from there, too funny!
#4465
^ Thanks so much. Good to have it back on the road and driving well. I really like the steering wheel. Very OEM-like and way better than the stock unit or the previous one I had installed.
Crazy you live 2 miles away from St. Lucia Lane. Good memories for me growing up.
Busy working on aesthetics stuff as well as the ABS system. Starting to drive me a bit crazy figuring it out. Thought it was a rear wheel sensor but it is not - two new ones installed but no go. Down to checking continuity of wires.
Crazy you live 2 miles away from St. Lucia Lane. Good memories for me growing up.
Busy working on aesthetics stuff as well as the ABS system. Starting to drive me a bit crazy figuring it out. Thought it was a rear wheel sensor but it is not - two new ones installed but no go. Down to checking continuity of wires.
#4467
Update!
Happy Halloween! Thought I'd update the thread. In short, the car is doing well and we have made some nice WHP and torque gains.
Had the can in to Addicted Performance recently. Some of you may have seen this posted up on Facebook:
Addicted worked to trace down an ignition issue - the car was eating spark plugs. During inspection, they found the alternator wiring was a too small gauge and upgrading this helped smooth out the idle quite a bit. Car now idles in the mid-13 AFRs as opposed to the high 12s previously. Also cruises in the 14s versus the previous high 13s. However, this did not resolve the ignition issue.
So, turned to the AEM Smart coils. Replaced these with new ones and still no resolution. After much inspection, Addicted used an oscilloscope to determine the car was breaking up under high boost, high RPM, and high heat conditions (meaning the car didn't have issues during initial dyno runs but did as heat soak occurred). This revelation lead to a number of calls with Claudio (rotary EMS guru formerly of Haltech), and the issue turned out to be an overpowered Haltech fuse/relay box. We isolated the coil wiring and upgraded the relays and presto, problem solved.
Zach at Addicted wanted to do some individual rotor tuning, so we installed an Innovate TC4 box and 3 EGTs, one for each runner. Zach worked to balance out the EGTs via the Haltech and this resulted in some impressive gains. We previously had 639 WHP and 512 ft. lbs. of torque at 20 PSI. We were able to increase this to 716 WHP and 570 ft. lbs. of torque at the same PSI. Car feels much smoother and I swear the tonal quality of the engine has improved. Here is a before and after dyno sheet detailing the results:
Finally, we added in a Dakota Digital box and an oil cooler fan to ensure temps remain in check and we did other stuff I can’t remember. Getting old. J
With the car complete, we were able to go to the Tail of the Dragon for a video shoot. Awesome day and nice to drive when there is little traffic. Here are some stills from the shoot:
And the video. Addicted is in process of using the video for an upcoming campaign. Enjoy!
Had the can in to Addicted Performance recently. Some of you may have seen this posted up on Facebook:
Addicted worked to trace down an ignition issue - the car was eating spark plugs. During inspection, they found the alternator wiring was a too small gauge and upgrading this helped smooth out the idle quite a bit. Car now idles in the mid-13 AFRs as opposed to the high 12s previously. Also cruises in the 14s versus the previous high 13s. However, this did not resolve the ignition issue.
So, turned to the AEM Smart coils. Replaced these with new ones and still no resolution. After much inspection, Addicted used an oscilloscope to determine the car was breaking up under high boost, high RPM, and high heat conditions (meaning the car didn't have issues during initial dyno runs but did as heat soak occurred). This revelation lead to a number of calls with Claudio (rotary EMS guru formerly of Haltech), and the issue turned out to be an overpowered Haltech fuse/relay box. We isolated the coil wiring and upgraded the relays and presto, problem solved.
Zach at Addicted wanted to do some individual rotor tuning, so we installed an Innovate TC4 box and 3 EGTs, one for each runner. Zach worked to balance out the EGTs via the Haltech and this resulted in some impressive gains. We previously had 639 WHP and 512 ft. lbs. of torque at 20 PSI. We were able to increase this to 716 WHP and 570 ft. lbs. of torque at the same PSI. Car feels much smoother and I swear the tonal quality of the engine has improved. Here is a before and after dyno sheet detailing the results:
Finally, we added in a Dakota Digital box and an oil cooler fan to ensure temps remain in check and we did other stuff I can’t remember. Getting old. J
With the car complete, we were able to go to the Tail of the Dragon for a video shoot. Awesome day and nice to drive when there is little traffic. Here are some stills from the shoot:
And the video. Addicted is in process of using the video for an upcoming campaign. Enjoy!
Last edited by David Hayes; 10-31-17 at 04:48 PM.
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#4470
My own custom design. Here is link to the posts in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post11897432
It's one of my favorite mods but it's labor intensive.
Thanks man. Kilo is the man and hope his family in PR is safe. The power hooks up well, but yes, you can cut it loose in all gears under WOT. Did it in 4th gear. The key is to "smooth" into it versus romping on it.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post11897432
It's one of my favorite mods but it's labor intensive.
Thanks man. Kilo is the man and hope his family in PR is safe. The power hooks up well, but yes, you can cut it loose in all gears under WOT. Did it in 4th gear. The key is to "smooth" into it versus romping on it.
#4472
I have the middle of the road Tein Superstreet setup. Works well. Could get more fancy but for my level of driving, good bang for the buck. On the EGT per rotor tuning, I was surprised at the gains made but Zach was confident so I went with it. On the sound, there is something about the 3 rotor resonance that does it. I think it is the odd number.