i got another ANOTHER FD. what is wrong with me
Sucks you can't get the boost down to where you want it. I have a feeling if you extended and clocked the arm of the wastegate flapper a bit could maximize its opening while still being pretty close to spec on the angle of the actuator rod.
-David Guy
-David Guy
Jacob, if you run the main cat will it control help to run lower boost?
I like the simplicity of this kit as well, but I too don't want to run 15 psi on the track as I am not experienced enough to need that much power on track. I believe it to be more of a hindrance than a tool to help me learn how to drive better.
I like the simplicity of this kit as well, but I too don't want to run 15 psi on the track as I am not experienced enough to need that much power on track. I believe it to be more of a hindrance than a tool to help me learn how to drive better.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
silverTuRD, yes, it would. but i assume (really a guess) my aftermarket standard cat will melt or get pwnd in some way during a track day.
and hey, i also think this wastegate will have absolutely no issue holding low boost on a stock port engine. if you have a medium-large street port, it may not.
and hey, i also think this wastegate will have absolutely no issue holding low boost on a stock port engine. if you have a medium-large street port, it may not.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
bought another FD this weekend and i'm going to change some things up: i'll be selling (or parting out) the red 93 FD.
i got it from Addicted Performance Zach in Knoxville.




prior to cleaning engine bay

new mini alpine amp for tablet/itunes



post-engine bay cleaning:


i got it from Addicted Performance Zach in Knoxville.




prior to cleaning engine bay

new mini alpine amp for tablet/itunes




post-engine bay cleaning:


Cmon Jacob. Whats the plan? Inquiring minds want to know. I hope your tack efforts are not over.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
^ *track efforts? oh they're definitely not over.
i'm currently attempting to part out the red car and lightly mod the white car to be a little more comfortable and still do 3-4 track events a year.
i got the white car with a freshly rebuilt engine from Addicted Performance (literally like 8 miles on it when i bought it). Zach knows what he's doing, he did a quality rebuild, and everything about the white car seems great.
the only issue with the current situation is that i need $$$ from the red car.
current things i need to figure out:
1. which EMS to use. the white car came with a powerFC with a modified base map (i think) and no hand controller, so i'm in the dark. to have the car even boosting at all, i'll need to tune the powerFC. this will require at least a datalogit ($300) and a hand controller to watch the temps at the track, plus another $200 wideband. i know the powerFC is capable, but i'm no expert. i've actually owned 3 powerFCs (all with a datalogit) in the past and i've dyno tuned them, but i'm just not quite as good with them and don't trust them as much as haltech.
i could also sell the powerFC stuff and the nicely re-wrapped stock harness (with emissions removed, basically a nice single turbo style stock harness) and buy another haltech --probably an additional $600, but that will require making another engine harness --probably an additional $250 in wiring/loom/shrink materials.
2. which suspension setup to go with. i definitely can't track with my 18x9.5 wheels and 265 tires on the stock springs and shocks. after a lot of research, it seems like they will absolutely compress too much and rub the fender liners. i think i've narrowed down the suspension stuff to A. simple eibach springs (if they are stiff enough to keep the wheels out of the fender liners), B. koni yellow shocks with eibach springs, or C. some "soft" pre-made coilovers that have 8k and 6k spring rates. all the coilover setups i've seen so far have at least 10k/8k spring rates, which i think is going to be too hard. i'll do the eibach springs on stock shocks if i can get away with it.
i also need to replace all 6 pillow *****, which are clunking pretty badly, and the stock intercooler is going to severely limit boosting at the track, even with the cool temps outside. i just need to get some money out of the red car. hopefully it happens in the next 3 weeks
i'm currently attempting to part out the red car and lightly mod the white car to be a little more comfortable and still do 3-4 track events a year.
i got the white car with a freshly rebuilt engine from Addicted Performance (literally like 8 miles on it when i bought it). Zach knows what he's doing, he did a quality rebuild, and everything about the white car seems great.
the only issue with the current situation is that i need $$$ from the red car.
current things i need to figure out:
1. which EMS to use. the white car came with a powerFC with a modified base map (i think) and no hand controller, so i'm in the dark. to have the car even boosting at all, i'll need to tune the powerFC. this will require at least a datalogit ($300) and a hand controller to watch the temps at the track, plus another $200 wideband. i know the powerFC is capable, but i'm no expert. i've actually owned 3 powerFCs (all with a datalogit) in the past and i've dyno tuned them, but i'm just not quite as good with them and don't trust them as much as haltech.
i could also sell the powerFC stuff and the nicely re-wrapped stock harness (with emissions removed, basically a nice single turbo style stock harness) and buy another haltech --probably an additional $600, but that will require making another engine harness --probably an additional $250 in wiring/loom/shrink materials.
2. which suspension setup to go with. i definitely can't track with my 18x9.5 wheels and 265 tires on the stock springs and shocks. after a lot of research, it seems like they will absolutely compress too much and rub the fender liners. i think i've narrowed down the suspension stuff to A. simple eibach springs (if they are stiff enough to keep the wheels out of the fender liners), B. koni yellow shocks with eibach springs, or C. some "soft" pre-made coilovers that have 8k and 6k spring rates. all the coilover setups i've seen so far have at least 10k/8k spring rates, which i think is going to be too hard. i'll do the eibach springs on stock shocks if i can get away with it.
i also need to replace all 6 pillow *****, which are clunking pretty badly, and the stock intercooler is going to severely limit boosting at the track, even with the cool temps outside. i just need to get some money out of the red car. hopefully it happens in the next 3 weeks
I'm glad to hear you're still going to track your FD. Are you planning on running the twins, or your EFR setup with a stock port motor to better control the boost( I am unaware if has sold)?
jacob, eibach springs will not even come close to keeping your tires away from the fenders. (Im talking from experience) The only springs that may work for you are the H&R's w/ koni yellows and that still wont really be track worthy esp with beefy tires. 10k/8k is the minimum imo and to be honest a good set of coilovers will ride way smoother vs springs w/ koni yellows. My 12k12k pettit track pros ride pretty smooth, def street-able.
Would love to hear more about your plans are for the motor/turbos setup.
Would love to hear more about your plans are for the motor/turbos setup.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
i am planning on running the stock twins for at least this one event coming up. i may not even make the event, depending on what happens with the red car, but i am hoping to take the white car to the event.
APU did a great job on this car and did the full non-sequential mod, no exhaust leaks, attention to detail on a bunch of little stuff, so i am going to rock it for a while.
the EFR kit would work perfectly on this block, but i need to sell that kit along with all the other parts and recoup some funds.
I have always wanted a White FD too, but my Silver one is close enough
.
Just an FYI for others reading, I've now had 3 other customers confirm they could hold between 8 and 10 psi on this same kit. Even one with a race ported engine. These other cars had zero intake and exhaust restrictions.
The fact that Jacob went BACK to his old inter-cooler and intake, and still had boost creep after have NONE for like 3+ months, confirms exactly what I said; too much unburnt fuel in the exhaust manifold causing boost creep. Probably from a failing ignition system. I have seen it many many times before on the dyno. Power comes down, boost goes up!
.Just an FYI for others reading, I've now had 3 other customers confirm they could hold between 8 and 10 psi on this same kit. Even one with a race ported engine. These other cars had zero intake and exhaust restrictions.
The fact that Jacob went BACK to his old inter-cooler and intake, and still had boost creep after have NONE for like 3+ months, confirms exactly what I said; too much unburnt fuel in the exhaust manifold causing boost creep. Probably from a failing ignition system. I have seen it many many times before on the dyno. Power comes down, boost goes up!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
elliot, that is good to hear about the other customers holding boost with ported engines.
that will make my turbo kit an easier sell.
i may actually end up keeping it and trying it on this stock port engine with stock good-condition ignition components and just be awesome once again
that will make my turbo kit an easier sell.
i may actually end up keeping it and trying it on this stock port engine with stock good-condition ignition components and just be awesome once again







