How NOT to do it... Nik da Greek's FD thread
07-24-11, 10:25 PM
#52
Are you running the Link G4 RX? Do you use some of the more advanced features, such as launch control, flat shifting, etc... I'm looking into getting one myself, but I don't know of anyone on this side of the pond that uses one. I'm currently running a PFC, but I must admit the Link looks like a sexy piece of kit. Especially for the price.
Cheers
Cheers
07-25-11, 03:56 AM
#53
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Great read, man! 
Good to see you are persistent, and stay with the rotary engine! Lets cross fingers and hope this was the last rebuild 
Sandblast this, paint it crome, and insert a clock in the rotor for nice looks
Good to see you are persistent, and stay with the rotary engine! Lets cross fingers and hope this was the last rebuild Sandblast this, paint it crome, and insert a clock in the rotor for nice looks
07-25-11, 04:55 AM
#54
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the kind words of support, guys, means a lot.
I can't walk away from the rotary, they're just too addictive. Nothing else feels or sounds like a sorted rotary when it's on song and on boost! I was lucky enough to drive a properly good LS-engined car owned by a mate and whilst it's an awesome thing and at least as fast as my 13B, it just doesn't feel the same or involve you in driving quite as much somehow. I would have one, but not if it was the only FD I could own. I'd miss the rotary anarchy too much!
The costs are getting scary, though, that's the only real downside. It's now £1.40 for a litre of High Octane Unleaded, which means I can spend £80 filling the fuel tank... which lasts about 200 to 250 miles depending on how it's driven. Not sure what the exchange rate is at the moment, but an online currency converter reckons that's 138 US$ per tank. Guess that's the curse of the rotary right there!
As to the Link, it's got loads of features we haven't yet had a chance to play with! I don't really need launch control and such, but we're gonna see what it can really do now the car's all up and running now. Like I said, it goes in for a new IC and the final map this week, so I'm looking forward to seeing what it can do. At the moment, the only feature we're using is that it makes really huge flames on the overrun, which is childish but great fun!
Next on the shopping list is one of these http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink which hopefully will let me get rid of all the aftermarket gauges that are a bit cluttered and not especially reliable. Plus, I'm a sucker for gizmos.
Very impressed with the Link, it's around twice the price of an Apexi (in the UK) but much more versatile, and with loads more features, approaching the level of MoTeC but a lot cheaper. Plus, Chris Impey runs one in his drag car, and that can do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vyHAa-RxKo so I figure it's more than good enough for me!
As to the rotor clock idea, it's a good one but I think there may be a limit even to Beth's tolerance. Think she'll kick me out if I bring any more derelict engine bits into the house lol
I can't walk away from the rotary, they're just too addictive. Nothing else feels or sounds like a sorted rotary when it's on song and on boost! I was lucky enough to drive a properly good LS-engined car owned by a mate and whilst it's an awesome thing and at least as fast as my 13B, it just doesn't feel the same or involve you in driving quite as much somehow. I would have one, but not if it was the only FD I could own. I'd miss the rotary anarchy too much!
The costs are getting scary, though, that's the only real downside. It's now £1.40 for a litre of High Octane Unleaded, which means I can spend £80 filling the fuel tank... which lasts about 200 to 250 miles depending on how it's driven. Not sure what the exchange rate is at the moment, but an online currency converter reckons that's 138 US$ per tank. Guess that's the curse of the rotary right there!
As to the Link, it's got loads of features we haven't yet had a chance to play with! I don't really need launch control and such, but we're gonna see what it can really do now the car's all up and running now. Like I said, it goes in for a new IC and the final map this week, so I'm looking forward to seeing what it can do. At the moment, the only feature we're using is that it makes really huge flames on the overrun, which is childish but great fun!
Next on the shopping list is one of these http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink which hopefully will let me get rid of all the aftermarket gauges that are a bit cluttered and not especially reliable. Plus, I'm a sucker for gizmos.
Very impressed with the Link, it's around twice the price of an Apexi (in the UK) but much more versatile, and with loads more features, approaching the level of MoTeC but a lot cheaper. Plus, Chris Impey runs one in his drag car, and that can do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vyHAa-RxKo so I figure it's more than good enough for me!
As to the rotor clock idea, it's a good one but I think there may be a limit even to Beth's tolerance. Think she'll kick me out if I bring any more derelict engine bits into the house lol
Last edited by Nik da Greek; 07-25-11 at 04:58 AM. Reason: spelnilg
07-25-11, 07:37 AM
#55
Thanks for all the kind words of support, guys, means a lot.
I can't walk away from the rotary, they're just too addictive. Nothing else feels or sounds like a sorted rotary when it's on song and on boost! I was lucky enough to drive a properly good LS-engined car owned by a mate and whilst it's an awesome thing and at least as fast as my 13B, it just doesn't feel the same or involve you in driving quite as much somehow. I would have one, but not if it was the only FD I could own. I'd miss the rotary anarchy too much!
The costs are getting scary, though, that's the only real downside. It's now £1.40 for a litre of High Octane Unleaded, which means I can spend £80 filling the fuel tank... which lasts about 200 to 250 miles depending on how it's driven. Not sure what the exchange rate is at the moment, but an online currency converter reckons that's 138 US$ per tank. Guess that's the curse of the rotary right there!
As to the Link, it's got loads of features we haven't yet had a chance to play with! I don't really need launch control and such, but we're gonna see what it can really do now the car's all up and running now. Like I said, it goes in for a new IC and the final map this week, so I'm looking forward to seeing what it can do. At the moment, the only feature we're using is that it makes really huge flames on the overrun, which is childish but great fun!
Next on the shopping list is one of these http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink which hopefully will let me get rid of all the aftermarket gauges that are a bit cluttered and not especially reliable. Plus, I'm a sucker for gizmos.
Very impressed with the Link, it's around twice the price of an Apexi (in the UK) but much more versatile, and with loads more features, approaching the level of MoTeC but a lot cheaper. Plus, Chris Impey runs one in his drag car, and that can do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vyHAa-RxKo so I figure it's more than good enough for me!
As to the rotor clock idea, it's a good one but I think there may be a limit even to Beth's tolerance. Think she'll kick me out if I bring any more derelict engine bits into the house lol
I can't walk away from the rotary, they're just too addictive. Nothing else feels or sounds like a sorted rotary when it's on song and on boost! I was lucky enough to drive a properly good LS-engined car owned by a mate and whilst it's an awesome thing and at least as fast as my 13B, it just doesn't feel the same or involve you in driving quite as much somehow. I would have one, but not if it was the only FD I could own. I'd miss the rotary anarchy too much!
The costs are getting scary, though, that's the only real downside. It's now £1.40 for a litre of High Octane Unleaded, which means I can spend £80 filling the fuel tank... which lasts about 200 to 250 miles depending on how it's driven. Not sure what the exchange rate is at the moment, but an online currency converter reckons that's 138 US$ per tank. Guess that's the curse of the rotary right there!
As to the Link, it's got loads of features we haven't yet had a chance to play with! I don't really need launch control and such, but we're gonna see what it can really do now the car's all up and running now. Like I said, it goes in for a new IC and the final map this week, so I'm looking forward to seeing what it can do. At the moment, the only feature we're using is that it makes really huge flames on the overrun, which is childish but great fun!
Next on the shopping list is one of these http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink which hopefully will let me get rid of all the aftermarket gauges that are a bit cluttered and not especially reliable. Plus, I'm a sucker for gizmos.
Very impressed with the Link, it's around twice the price of an Apexi (in the UK) but much more versatile, and with loads more features, approaching the level of MoTeC but a lot cheaper. Plus, Chris Impey runs one in his drag car, and that can do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vyHAa-RxKo so I figure it's more than good enough for me!
As to the rotor clock idea, it's a good one but I think there may be a limit even to Beth's tolerance. Think she'll kick me out if I bring any more derelict engine bits into the house lol
Almost a month ago i picked up a 2006 GTO (maybe a monaro in england??), which is the LS2 model. 400hp/400lbs torque STOCK and its a BLAST to drive. Its stock for now but it makes an insanely great daily driver. This is my first v8 car and the amount of torque is something that can not be explained til you drive a v8. I seriously do not have to shift about 3500rpm because the car just hops ahead of the pack with a slight blip of the throttle because of all the low end torque.
Since i only drive my FD on the weekend, the first week upon using the GTO for the daily driver routines, i hop in the FD to take it out and its a different feeling. Its def a more "drivers" car. I am low in my seat, my shift **** is where i want it (throws on the GTO is too long, might have to get a short shifter for it), the sound it makes and how the car feels when you drive still makes me never want to get rid of it.
I would assume an LSx FD is probably one of the best driving experiences ever (not persuading you to do it), just saying the feeling i have for both my cars, its both great, i would imagine putting them together is amost like having an orgasm. lol Not quite but almost.
07-25-11, 08:35 AM
#56
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Don't get me wrong, I love big V8s. In fact, I'm off to watch the UK Mopar Nationals this weekend, as it happens. Like I said, driving Andys' LS-1 (I think) enigned FD really opened my eyes to how good a car an FD with a V8 can be. Before I always discounted it out of hand, but the proof is in the driving. Tiny little snippet of it here, not the worlds best video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7GgCM1JMHA
And some pics of how good a conversion it is
When I drove it, He was always nagging me about being in too low a gear, I was driving it like an FD. At 40mph in town I was in third, which would be even slightly too high for the 13B, or mine anyway. With the V8 it was happy in fifth and still pulled like a horse with tabasco up its ****. It'd pull away in third from a standstill!
It's just a completely different car, and stupidly fast whilst still handling like an FD. If I'd driven it knowing I was going to blow two engines in four months, I would have been sorely tempted to go down an LS-conversion route. But I only know with hindsight how much money I was going to waste, and even with hindsight I'm glad I stuck with rotors. I'd have to have one of each lol
Having said that, I reckon you've got the best of both worlds, a Monaro would make an awesome daily. Only downside is they stuck a Vauxhall badge on them in the UK, which at least means they bleed value like a haemophiliac at a knifefight. Only a matter of time and I'll be able to afford one, they're around ten grand (GB£) for a good used one right now. Give em a few years...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7GgCM1JMHA
And some pics of how good a conversion it is
When I drove it, He was always nagging me about being in too low a gear, I was driving it like an FD. At 40mph in town I was in third, which would be even slightly too high for the 13B, or mine anyway. With the V8 it was happy in fifth and still pulled like a horse with tabasco up its ****. It'd pull away in third from a standstill!
It's just a completely different car, and stupidly fast whilst still handling like an FD. If I'd driven it knowing I was going to blow two engines in four months, I would have been sorely tempted to go down an LS-conversion route. But I only know with hindsight how much money I was going to waste, and even with hindsight I'm glad I stuck with rotors. I'd have to have one of each lol
Having said that, I reckon you've got the best of both worlds, a Monaro would make an awesome daily. Only downside is they stuck a Vauxhall badge on them in the UK, which at least means they bleed value like a haemophiliac at a knifefight. Only a matter of time and I'll be able to afford one, they're around ten grand (GB£) for a good used one right now. Give em a few years...
07-25-11, 08:43 AM
#57
You're absolutely RIGHT.
Almost a month ago i picked up a 2006 GTO (maybe a monaro in england??), which is the LS2 model. 400hp/400lbs torque STOCK and its a BLAST to drive. Its stock for now but it makes an insanely great daily driver. This is my first v8 car and the amount of torque is something that can not be explained til you drive a v8. I seriously do not have to shift about 3500rpm because the car just hops ahead of the pack with a slight blip of the throttle because of all the low end torque.
Since i only drive my FD on the weekend, the first week upon using the GTO for the daily driver routines, i hop in the FD to take it out and its a different feeling. Its def a more "drivers" car. I am low in my seat, my shift **** is where i want it (throws on the GTO is too long, might have to get a short shifter for it), the sound it makes and how the car feels when you drive still makes me never want to get rid of it.
I would assume an LSx FD is probably one of the best driving experiences ever (not persuading you to do it), just saying the feeling i have for both my cars, its both great, i would imagine putting them together is amost like having an orgasm. lol Not quite but almost.
Almost a month ago i picked up a 2006 GTO (maybe a monaro in england??), which is the LS2 model. 400hp/400lbs torque STOCK and its a BLAST to drive. Its stock for now but it makes an insanely great daily driver. This is my first v8 car and the amount of torque is something that can not be explained til you drive a v8. I seriously do not have to shift about 3500rpm because the car just hops ahead of the pack with a slight blip of the throttle because of all the low end torque.
Since i only drive my FD on the weekend, the first week upon using the GTO for the daily driver routines, i hop in the FD to take it out and its a different feeling. Its def a more "drivers" car. I am low in my seat, my shift **** is where i want it (throws on the GTO is too long, might have to get a short shifter for it), the sound it makes and how the car feels when you drive still makes me never want to get rid of it.
I would assume an LSx FD is probably one of the best driving experiences ever (not persuading you to do it), just saying the feeling i have for both my cars, its both great, i would imagine putting them together is amost like having an orgasm. lol Not quite but almost.
Think of taking 1000lbs off of your GTO.
To the thread starter, you are a true rotard.
I couldn't do it. At first sign of problems, I dropped the rotors and ran.
07-26-11, 12:35 AM
#58
Very enjoyable thread. I read every post.
That's some real determination you have.
I put a fresh 13B-RE into my RX-7 and it blew on the dyno before I even got to drive it for the very first time, thanks to a leak in the wastegate diaphragm which caused it to overboost.
I went back to a 13B-REW and made 326hp @ 11psi and ~400hp @ 15psi, but then it went its course as well.
I got scammed out of $500 trying to buy a street-ported motor to replace it, and that's when my mechanic brother came to me with doing a 2JZ motor swap...
About 1 1/2 years later and $1,000's in parts and it's like 90% done. Might even be running within the month of August (crosses fingers).
Either way, I admire your determination for sticking with the rotary....I hope that the driving experience doesn't change so much so with the 2JZ that I regret doing it...
I definitely agree with that "street-driven" race-car feel that ONLY the RX-7 really has, in my opinion. That's why I haven't sold it yet. :P
Anywho! Great thread!
BTW.....Atlanta Falcons stickers, huh? Interesting! I'm from Georgia, so I had to comment on that! ;P
That's some real determination you have.
I put a fresh 13B-RE into my RX-7 and it blew on the dyno before I even got to drive it for the very first time, thanks to a leak in the wastegate diaphragm which caused it to overboost.
I went back to a 13B-REW and made 326hp @ 11psi and ~400hp @ 15psi, but then it went its course as well.
I got scammed out of $500 trying to buy a street-ported motor to replace it, and that's when my mechanic brother came to me with doing a 2JZ motor swap...
About 1 1/2 years later and $1,000's in parts and it's like 90% done. Might even be running within the month of August (crosses fingers).
Either way, I admire your determination for sticking with the rotary....I hope that the driving experience doesn't change so much so with the 2JZ that I regret doing it...
I definitely agree with that "street-driven" race-car feel that ONLY the RX-7 really has, in my opinion. That's why I haven't sold it yet. :P
Anywho! Great thread!
BTW.....Atlanta Falcons stickers, huh? Interesting! I'm from Georgia, so I had to comment on that! ;P
07-26-11, 05:56 AM
#59
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Lol, Yeah, Falcons is a long story! I like people who do things different, even when it sometimes isn't the most sensible way to do it. Like rotaries, swarming defense, Honda oval piston motorbikes, etc etc. My football (soccer team) is Leeds United, so I guess I just have a thing for supporting the nearly-men 
Champions League semi-finalists to third Division losers in three quick years, fantastic 
As to the 2JZ, well good luck with that. Lot of work to keep the weight distribution right, though I guess there's probably a lot more support for that swap in the US than over here. I only know of a couple of FDs with that swap here and like the RB25/6 Skyline enigne I think they had a lot of problems with having to perch the long old straight six up on the rack and out past the moment of inertia. Still, vive la difference and all that!
I wonder why no-ones ever done swap for like a BMW V8? Not that I know of anyway. That'd be an interesting one!
Champions League semi-finalists to third Division losers in three quick years, fantastic As to the 2JZ, well good luck with that. Lot of work to keep the weight distribution right, though I guess there's probably a lot more support for that swap in the US than over here. I only know of a couple of FDs with that swap here and like the RB25/6 Skyline enigne I think they had a lot of problems with having to perch the long old straight six up on the rack and out past the moment of inertia. Still, vive la difference and all that!
I wonder why no-ones ever done swap for like a BMW V8? Not that I know of anyway. That'd be an interesting one!
07-26-11, 06:11 AM
#60
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RX = Rotary project
You dont want to make a VX7....or an MX7 or a JZ7..or whatever, do ya?
You should add this to your sign:
FB=financial Burden
FC=Financial Challenge
FD=Financial Disaster
You dont want to make a VX7....or an MX7 or a JZ7..or whatever, do ya?
You should add this to your sign:
FB=financial Burden
FC=Financial Challenge
FD=Financial Disaster
08-22-11, 06:17 AM
#61
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well, the car still isn't quite finished due to the mapping guy having a nightmare with getting his dyno moved. Still, what with Rotorstock 8 this weekend at Santa Pod it had to do. Threw a bucket of water over the car and gave her a wax (first time in about a year, to my shame 
) and took a few pics before getting her all filthy again lol.
Really pleased with how she performed, had I been on a public road rather than the M1 motorway I would have got up to stupid speeds against a GSXR before he bottled it and slammed on his brakes, if you know what I mean, and the car hasn't missed a beat all weekend. Didn't even complain about being driven around a muddy field and parked out in the rain all night. Fantastic
At least I know the wax works well lol
) and took a few pics before getting her all filthy again lol.Really pleased with how she performed, had I been on a public road rather than the M1 motorway I would have got up to stupid speeds against a GSXR before he bottled it and slammed on his brakes, if you know what I mean, and the car hasn't missed a beat all weekend. Didn't even complain about being driven around a muddy field and parked out in the rain all night. Fantastic
At least I know the wax works well lol
08-27-11, 04:08 AM
#63
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The headlight cover is a Border Racing one which I think is discontinued. C-West did one similar, just the vent was slightly smaller. I reckon you'd have a better chance of finding one of them.
Thanks Gordon, it's good to be back! Now the only problem is trying to stop driving it. At ~£80 ($13 ) a tank of petrol it's not as cheap as it was to run even in January when the last motor grenaded
11-17-11, 10:34 AM
#66
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Not had much to update this thread about of late, so time for some minor housekeeping. The FD's been running boringly well, except for the battery mysteriously going completely flat for no apparent reason. Even more baffling and worrying considering it hasn't done it since. Hmmm. Anyway, I've got a bigger boot box sorted and intend to get a mammoth dry-cell battery from Mercedes, the same as they use in the V12 CLK. That ought to be man enough to do the job. I'm a firm believer that huge truck batteries are what you want on a REX.
Only other issue I had was my headlights going all mutant, also for no good reason, and also haven't done it before or since. Had to drive around looking like a stroke victim for a while before the mechanism magically fixed itself
Anyway, news just in is that the FD is becoming just a tiny bit too anarchic to drive every day and commuting to work sitting in town traffic jams is a bit annoying at £1.48 per litre of Super. So I started to look about to find a nice, reliable, economical runabout to take over commuting duties. It's a problem, cos it has to be fun, and interesting. I had to trade in my Kawasaki to finance it, so there's no way I could bring myself to buy some boring econobox to replace it. In the end it came down to one choice really.
Ta-daaa
The bloody thing's immaculate, done a genuine 55k miles from new. It's almost too nice to tool about in through winter. Almost. Have to say, I love driving it, it's like cars were when I was young lol. Excellent little car. Here's one of the FD plotting revenge. Bet the bloody thing won't start when I go to drive it next. Still, at least I can now take the FD off the road and finish off all the annoying niggly jobs with the luxury of time!
Only other issue I had was my headlights going all mutant, also for no good reason, and also haven't done it before or since. Had to drive around looking like a stroke victim for a while before the mechanism magically fixed itself
Anyway, news just in is that the FD is becoming just a tiny bit too anarchic to drive every day and commuting to work sitting in town traffic jams is a bit annoying at £1.48 per litre of Super. So I started to look about to find a nice, reliable, economical runabout to take over commuting duties. It's a problem, cos it has to be fun, and interesting. I had to trade in my Kawasaki to finance it, so there's no way I could bring myself to buy some boring econobox to replace it. In the end it came down to one choice really.
Ta-daaa
The bloody thing's immaculate, done a genuine 55k miles from new. It's almost too nice to tool about in through winter. Almost. Have to say, I love driving it, it's like cars were when I was young lol. Excellent little car. Here's one of the FD plotting revenge. Bet the bloody thing won't start when I go to drive it next. Still, at least I can now take the FD off the road and finish off all the annoying niggly jobs with the luxury of time!
11-24-11, 03:24 PM
#70
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Polishing is a bit like painting, the more work you put into prep, the better the results. If you have access to machine shop stuff like linishers and sanders, great, but I only have little hobby bench-mounted stuff.
I start off with sanding discs on a household drill, and Dremel sanders for nadgery little corners the big discs can't get to. Not too harsh a grit, either, because it's really easy to put marks into alloy that you then will never manage to polish out. I only use the machine tools for taking really rough casting marks down, then switch to hand sanding. Just normal wet and dry, aluminium oxide paper is best. Start at around 120 grit, then work finer and finer through 240, 400, 800 and finally 1200 and 1500.
You can miss out a couple of stages, but like I said, I tend to find the end result is better if I put in the hours. Once the sanding's finished, I switch to a rotary mop on a pig-tail arbour in a bench grinder and polishing compounds, which are wax-based polish in a bar almost like clay. You get varying grades of mop and compound. Just spin up the mop, melt a little compound on, and press the work against it. It takes a little practice to perfect, but it's one of those jobs that's it's own reward. Then just finish with a little metal polish paste.
It can be a filthy dirty job, and tedious if you don't have some tunes to listen to, but it's one of those things I find quite immersive and it's easy to do, but tricky to do really well which keeps me at it trying to get better. I'm sure the amount of time I put into it, I could pay someone to do it professionally but where's the fun in that lol? Maybe I'm weird
I start off with sanding discs on a household drill, and Dremel sanders for nadgery little corners the big discs can't get to. Not too harsh a grit, either, because it's really easy to put marks into alloy that you then will never manage to polish out. I only use the machine tools for taking really rough casting marks down, then switch to hand sanding. Just normal wet and dry, aluminium oxide paper is best. Start at around 120 grit, then work finer and finer through 240, 400, 800 and finally 1200 and 1500.
You can miss out a couple of stages, but like I said, I tend to find the end result is better if I put in the hours. Once the sanding's finished, I switch to a rotary mop on a pig-tail arbour in a bench grinder and polishing compounds, which are wax-based polish in a bar almost like clay. You get varying grades of mop and compound. Just spin up the mop, melt a little compound on, and press the work against it. It takes a little practice to perfect, but it's one of those jobs that's it's own reward. Then just finish with a little metal polish paste.
It can be a filthy dirty job, and tedious if you don't have some tunes to listen to, but it's one of those things I find quite immersive and it's easy to do, but tricky to do really well which keeps me at it trying to get better. I'm sure the amount of time I put into it, I could pay someone to do it professionally but where's the fun in that lol? Maybe I'm weird
01-13-17, 04:56 PM
#73
Full Member
Polishing is a bit like painting, the more work you put into prep, the better the results. If you have access to machine shop stuff like linishers and sanders, great, but I only have little hobby bench-mounted stuff.
I start off with sanding discs on a household drill, and Dremel sanders for nadgery little corners the big discs can't get to. Not too harsh a grit, either, because it's really easy to put marks into alloy that you then will never manage to polish out. I only use the machine tools for taking really rough casting marks down, then switch to hand sanding. Just normal wet and dry, aluminium oxide paper is best. Start at around 120 grit, then work finer and finer through 240, 400, 800 and finally 1200 and 1500.
You can miss out a couple of stages, but like I said, I tend to find the end result is better if I put in the hours. Once the sanding's finished, I switch to a rotary mop on a pig-tail arbour in a bench grinder and polishing compounds, which are wax-based polish in a bar almost like clay. You get varying grades of mop and compound. Just spin up the mop, melt a little compound on, and press the work against it. It takes a little practice to perfect, but it's one of those jobs that's it's own reward. Then just finish with a little metal polish paste.
It can be a filthy dirty job, and tedious if you don't have some tunes to listen to, but it's one of those things I find quite immersive and it's easy to do, but tricky to do really well which keeps me at it trying to get better. I'm sure the amount of time I put into it, I could pay someone to do it professionally but where's the fun in that lol? Maybe I'm weird
I start off with sanding discs on a household drill, and Dremel sanders for nadgery little corners the big discs can't get to. Not too harsh a grit, either, because it's really easy to put marks into alloy that you then will never manage to polish out. I only use the machine tools for taking really rough casting marks down, then switch to hand sanding. Just normal wet and dry, aluminium oxide paper is best. Start at around 120 grit, then work finer and finer through 240, 400, 800 and finally 1200 and 1500.
You can miss out a couple of stages, but like I said, I tend to find the end result is better if I put in the hours. Once the sanding's finished, I switch to a rotary mop on a pig-tail arbour in a bench grinder and polishing compounds, which are wax-based polish in a bar almost like clay. You get varying grades of mop and compound. Just spin up the mop, melt a little compound on, and press the work against it. It takes a little practice to perfect, but it's one of those jobs that's it's own reward. Then just finish with a little metal polish paste.
It can be a filthy dirty job, and tedious if you don't have some tunes to listen to, but it's one of those things I find quite immersive and it's easy to do, but tricky to do really well which keeps me at it trying to get better. I'm sure the amount of time I put into it, I could pay someone to do it professionally but where's the fun in that lol? Maybe I'm weird
Nik the Greek, are gou still geting in these forums?
i am also Greek, living in Greece at the moment. i bought an Fd last december (one year ago) and i am reliving your nightmare...
i have broken 3 motors already in one year. yesterday i just put the 4th one in it... the 2 of them was not my mistake they broke. crazy story . the last one kind of my mistake .
if you still log in here or the other readers are interested i can explained how i lost 3 motors in 12 months...
Last edited by AlienHack; 01-13-17 at 05:01 PM.
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