GrandMighty.com's Project R2
02-23-16, 07:37 AM
#226
It seems folks are pretty much on either side without a lot of cross pollination between rotary and piston. I'm a car guy at heart and I like anything that works, looks good and is fun to drive. The car to me is one of the nicest looking designs ever made. Mazda knocked this out of the park on design. So to get to your question there is real potential for a V8 swap being superior to the rotary powered cars in a lot of ways. It does take some painstaking work to make a V8 car refined enough that it doesn't feel like an all out race car. As you know ground clearance with long tubes can be an issue. I would keep a rotary engine in my car as long as I can make similar power and not have to R&R the motor for a rebuild every year. Most V-8 swapped cars end up with much lighter steering due to the LS pumps overpowering the steering rack. I had a turn one line with reducer and it was underdriven on the pulley but it was still too light and over powered. That hurts the driving experience for me compared to a stock RX-7 steering pump. If I swap this CYM in the future I am totally going to retrofit the Mazda pump. You already know about the T-56 trans.
A few other issues with the LS swap is oil starvation while road racing on R compounds. You should be running a dry sump on the LS motor. Accusump isn't ideal and there isn't really room for either unless you move them inside the cabin. That's not what most people who also want to street drive these cars wants. Again it becomes more of an all out race car.
Heater hoses and AC hoses run dangerously close to the headers and would melt after a few laps. So you have to remove those or come up with some adequate solution with hard lines and heat shielding. Or run the car without heat and AC.
These aren't all problems if you intend to just street drive the car. Improved Racing makes a nice oil pan that will suffice for street cars and light track duty on street tires.
I think most swaps are done out of frustration and cost of replacing rotary engines and in those instances you get the folks who ask "how cheap can I swap in an LS1". Those cars I would avoid like the plague when they come up for sale. I would say the majority of swaps are done in a garage at someone's house and the final product usually isn't anywhere near OEM fit and finish and many shortcuts are made. Plenty of junkyard parts are used and it's not what I would call a nice car after the swap.
Then there are builds like yours and a few others like XLR8 and Halfspec that show it's possible to make it a better car. It's a build that is done out of passion and to make a better car in almost every way possible. These are not budget builds, they attention to detail is high and the skill level is top tier. It ends up becoming something along the lines of a Shelby Cobra that everyone can appreciate. A restomod if you will...
So why am I back in a rotary car? I wanted a clean chassis and it was cheaper to start with a car that didn't need bodywork and a full repaint. I also wanted a car without a sunroof and was lower mile so the interior would be in better condition. All the restoration stuff adds up and it's cheaper to buy a clean car to start with. I also have strong ties to the rotary community and my friends encouraged me to do a rotary build and they put a lot of effort to help me build the car to run on the 13b at the power levels I wanted. I have a lot of resources to that end. The car already was set up with a fresh rotary motor and a single turbo. I'm updating some things on the car and adding water meth, running race plugs. It's cheaper to build this car as it sits and it's quicker to be back out enjoying it. I have a build thread and you can see what I'm doing more in depth if you like.
My current car has things going for it and my rotary friends are a big help so I am taking this approach. Like I said; I like what works. If this doesn't work I will probably build this car over with a swap. XLR8 has a set up that is the direction I would probably go and we would build it at his shop.
Stroked LS3 or a built LS7, T-56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8 IRS. It's more $$ and down time than I want right now. I am not under any illusions on the potential failure of the rotary. The community doesn't seem to agree but you can like both cars. It's just a matter of what power levels can I realistically push this rotary and expect a reliable car? I think mileage varies in that respect.
I was at ESH Upholstery on Sunday and it's a nice shop. Austin does nice work and I'm sure you are enjoying those seats. He is also going to be making FD hatch privacy covers based off the stock mold.
I want mine in black Alcantara
Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing the build with the community.
02-23-16, 01:36 PM
#227
Very keen insight and I agree with your points. The budget friendly and fast option is certainly available when doing a LSx swap, especially if you just want to get it done and moving again. Doing a swap with an OEM mindset and covering all the supporting mods is definitely another league, I feel like you almost have to rebuild half the car to achieve it.
Even though I went the LSx route and can pragmatically substantiate the decision, I have no hard feelings for the rotary and appreciate what it stands for. It is my understanding that the rotary platform is a relatively new engine model that is mid way through its development cycle. There are of course bugs and inherent flaws that need to be engineered out, and if Mazda is not pushing the innovation, that all has to be done by the community which is a big feat.
I'm not trying to rathole this thread but this recent video brings up pertinency, although titling the Rotary Engine to be dead is a bit strong:
Things have come a long way in terms of development from the aftermarket realm, like those investment cast manifolds with BW EFR IWG turbos seem to be a huge step forward and top tier as far as turbo technology go. Given the small displacement and high strung nature of the 13Bs, it would be great to see them reach modern equivalency (efficiency and reliability wise) of other motors like the 381HP 2.0L 4-cylinder from the CLA45.
Ultimately, without Mazda pushing the envelope and having more factory support, having an infrastructure to support the platform is limited to specialized shops and people and it's going to be a proprietary future. That's why I'm really interested to see if Mazda will really be bringing forth a new Rotary engine with the RXVision and whatnot.
I would LOVE to have an N/A 20B set up as well, but the expenses to just build the motor are significant. Regardless, I will probably always have the itch to get back into a rotary car, no matter how objectified the argument is.
Even though I went the LSx route and can pragmatically substantiate the decision, I have no hard feelings for the rotary and appreciate what it stands for. It is my understanding that the rotary platform is a relatively new engine model that is mid way through its development cycle. There are of course bugs and inherent flaws that need to be engineered out, and if Mazda is not pushing the innovation, that all has to be done by the community which is a big feat.
I'm not trying to rathole this thread but this recent video brings up pertinency, although titling the Rotary Engine to be dead is a bit strong:
Things have come a long way in terms of development from the aftermarket realm, like those investment cast manifolds with BW EFR IWG turbos seem to be a huge step forward and top tier as far as turbo technology go. Given the small displacement and high strung nature of the 13Bs, it would be great to see them reach modern equivalency (efficiency and reliability wise) of other motors like the 381HP 2.0L 4-cylinder from the CLA45.
Ultimately, without Mazda pushing the envelope and having more factory support, having an infrastructure to support the platform is limited to specialized shops and people and it's going to be a proprietary future. That's why I'm really interested to see if Mazda will really be bringing forth a new Rotary engine with the RXVision and whatnot.
I would LOVE to have an N/A 20B set up as well, but the expenses to just build the motor are significant. Regardless, I will probably always have the itch to get back into a rotary car, no matter how objectified the argument is.
Last edited by Farkel; 02-23-16 at 01:47 PM.
02-29-16, 06:02 PM
#228
I got a call from Austin of ESH Upholstering last week where he basically slapped me in the face with a reality check 
He noticed that the area on my seats around the top/mid section had more wrinkles than he liked and noted that they could be smoothed out. I was still riding my high of getting the seats back and done and honestly didn't think much of it, I think I was more focused on the way the material fit evenly around the harness holes.
Again, there's a lot of variance in play depending on how you install the covers, so learn from my application and tweak it as you see fit if you get these covers. Or just call Austin, as he knows the right formula and is the definition of a perfectionist if there ever was one
I'm going to play with the adjusting the material some more in that area and maybe using some heat to help manipulate.
Anyway, my '99 bumper is back from the paint and the match looks great. The first time my painter repainted it, the match was still slightly off but luckily he was able to resolve the problem. This is my 3rd '99 bumper and I've had a cumulative total of 8+ repaints over the years during my crusade against minor nuances.
Panel gap fitment is especially important to get on point
Slapped back in the fender liners and here is how my engine bay sits today.
Door panel back from Toby Broadfield and texturing/pinhole problem corrected.
IGNORE what the grey looks like in these pictures... my cellphone's camera sucks at capturing the grey for some reason.
The lighting and camera makes the grey look much lighter and pastey than it really is...
Now to figure out the roll bar problem and hopefully the finish line will be crossed soon.
He noticed that the area on my seats around the top/mid section had more wrinkles than he liked and noted that they could be smoothed out. I was still riding my high of getting the seats back and done and honestly didn't think much of it, I think I was more focused on the way the material fit evenly around the harness holes. Again, there's a lot of variance in play depending on how you install the covers, so learn from my application and tweak it as you see fit if you get these covers. Or just call Austin, as he knows the right formula and is the definition of a perfectionist if there ever was one
I'm going to play with the adjusting the material some more in that area and maybe using some heat to help manipulate. Anyway, my '99 bumper is back from the paint and the match looks great. The first time my painter repainted it, the match was still slightly off but luckily he was able to resolve the problem. This is my 3rd '99 bumper and I've had a cumulative total of 8+ repaints over the years during my crusade against minor nuances.
Panel gap fitment is especially important to get on point
Slapped back in the fender liners and here is how my engine bay sits today.
Door panel back from Toby Broadfield and texturing/pinhole problem corrected.
IGNORE what the grey looks like in these pictures... my cellphone's camera sucks at capturing the grey for some reason.
The lighting and camera makes the grey look much lighter and pastey than it really is...
Now to figure out the roll bar problem and hopefully the finish line will be crossed soon.
03-13-16, 04:16 PM
#232
At this point, I'm too far gone to try and hide my OCD, so I'll probably just have to accept it
Small, detail stuff:
Mazdaspeed plate bracket:
Moddiction shift **** as a spare... don't think I will be using this one though, will probably keep it on the shelf.
Miata chrome shift button:
Flying M emblem:
RX-7 Half plate from AZPerformance on Etsy. I also asked him to make an aluminum version which he obliged (and is now available on his shop). However, since I padded my bracket area with some foam strips, it pushed out the mounting points of the plate and light aluminum deformed easily around the holes. I might try to space it out in the future, but I reverted back to my steel half plate.
03-13-16, 04:37 PM
#233
[QUOTE=Ericsworld;12038698]Good luck with it. It's difficult to fit in and bond well, but totally worth it when complete. OEM fitment, no need for hood latches, and zero flexing or wobbling at speed like fiberglass hoods
At this point, I'm too far gone to try and hide my OCD, so I'll probably just have to accept it
Man, don't say that Lol... I really felt for you reading your build thread and the back to back troubles you had. Kudos to your perseverance, hopefully everything goes well for a WHILE with your new engine.
Small, detail stuff:
Mazdaspeed plate bracket:
Black Legacy Plates will look really good
At this point, I'm too far gone to try and hide my OCD, so I'll probably just have to accept it
Man, don't say that Lol... I really felt for you reading your build thread and the back to back troubles you had. Kudos to your perseverance, hopefully everything goes well for a WHILE with your new engine.
Small, detail stuff:
Mazdaspeed plate bracket:
Black Legacy Plates will look really good
03-28-16, 01:53 PM
#234
^ I thought about the Black legacy plates when ordering my personalized plate, but decided that there would be too much black going on and the yellow letters would be too much contrast.
New update... More in depth details, of course, on the website http://www.grandmighty.com
Uploaded a firmware patch to the AiM MXG:
Fixed the chattering fan relay problem I experienced by having my tuner change a fan setting (PWM to Discrete) in the ECU. I noticed the chattering after I moved the fan relays into the passenger footwell because they became audible. It was an easy and quick fix, love it.
Figuring out what to do with the roll bar situation was the hardest part. I ended up cutting my losses and selling the old roll bar. I tried in vain to contract a local fabricator shop to make me a custom roll bar to my needs (too expensive or too busy).
This lead me to another route. As they say, when in doubt, go JDM I'm not going to falsely presume that my car is track dedicated, so I didn't really need a roll bar for sanctioning purposes any way.
Enter the Next Miracle Bar... the kit is relatively pricey, but suited my needs. After having a roll bar in some form for all this time, I had to have something in the back to fill the void. A signature touch, if you will.
Drilling for the rear seatbelt holes:
Cross bar:
Building it up...
Needed to make a trim:
New update... More in depth details, of course, on the website
http://www.grandmighty.comUploaded a firmware patch to the AiM MXG:
Fixed the chattering fan relay problem I experienced by having my tuner change a fan setting (PWM to Discrete) in the ECU. I noticed the chattering after I moved the fan relays into the passenger footwell because they became audible. It was an easy and quick fix, love it.
Figuring out what to do with the roll bar situation was the hardest part. I ended up cutting my losses and selling the old roll bar. I tried in vain to contract a local fabricator shop to make me a custom roll bar to my needs (too expensive or too busy).
This lead me to another route. As they say, when in doubt, go JDM
I'm not going to falsely presume that my car is track dedicated, so I didn't really need a roll bar for sanctioning purposes any way. Enter the Next Miracle Bar... the kit is relatively pricey, but suited my needs. After having a roll bar in some form for all this time, I had to have something in the back to fill the void. A signature touch, if you will.
Drilling for the rear seatbelt holes:
Cross bar:
Building it up...
Needed to make a trim:
04-05-16, 12:45 PM
#241
Porsches look so awesome!
Until you put them next to a clean FD. Then they look tall and old fashioned with their high green house.
I love how the FD has a svelte looking greenhouse (and whole body), yet has amazing visibility. That is one thing I hate about 90% of new cars, the poor visibility.
FD is getting on to be a nostalgia car too...
Until you put them next to a clean FD. Then they look tall and old fashioned with their high green house.
I love how the FD has a svelte looking greenhouse (and whole body), yet has amazing visibility. That is one thing I hate about 90% of new cars, the poor visibility.
FD is getting on to be a nostalgia car too...
04-05-16, 02:20 PM
#242
Everything is finally dialed in and it's great to drive. No clip without music, I think there was a lot of wind noise during those sections. And I believe I did get it from RHDJapan
Porsches look so awesome!
Until you put them next to a clean FD. Then they look tall and old fashioned with their high green house.
I love how the FD has a svelte looking greenhouse (and whole body), yet has amazing visibility. That is one thing I hate about 90% of new cars, the poor visibility.
FD is getting on to be a nostalgia car too...
Until you put them next to a clean FD. Then they look tall and old fashioned with their high green house.
I love how the FD has a svelte looking greenhouse (and whole body), yet has amazing visibility. That is one thing I hate about 90% of new cars, the poor visibility.
FD is getting on to be a nostalgia car too...
The rear 3/4ths profile view of the Porsche is my favorite angle. You get to see the old school rain rails and the wide, smooth fender arches.
My FD is a '94 and the 993 is a '95. One feels a bit more classic but I think both cars aged well although in slightly different ways.
04-28-16, 02:06 AM
#247
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Hate to say it, but that strut brace is really poorly engineered. Being so detail oriented, I'm actually surprised that you're ok with it. It's unecessarily convoluted, it's got bends which only serve to weaken the tubing, it's sleeved in the middle of the x-brace which is already the strongest part of the entire structure so why reinforce it further, the superfluous extra bars just make it extra heavy, etc.
04-28-16, 06:36 AM
#249
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Dude, it looks pretty rad. I have issue with what's under the hood, not what's under the hatch 
Car looks great Eric, almost my favorite BB aside from what's in my garage right now
Car looks great Eric, almost my favorite BB aside from what's in my garage right now
04-28-16, 03:08 PM
#250
Yeah, I will be the first to admit that this is a classic example where form took precedence over function. Probably only 2 of the 4 parts to the bar is necessary, but the slight weight cost is worth it for that BLING BLING!!!
And honestly, the roll bars I had installed in the past were to serve the same purpose. I'm not even sure if a 4-point bolt-in roll bar in a unibody chassis like the FD even does much to add appreciable stiffening.
And honestly, the roll bars I had installed in the past were to serve the same purpose. I'm not even sure if a 4-point bolt-in roll bar in a unibody chassis like the FD even does much to add appreciable stiffening.