GARAGE BUILD IN Co.
 

This build started with my little brother saving this 93 from a V8 swap when i was in Germany. We got the car as a shell and then ordered a used 2001 motor and transmission for it. this part of the build i don't have any pics for so iam starting it off from when i went home to Ca. to pick it up. when i got there the car ran like crap and i did a lot of work trying to get the Power FC to run the car right for the ride home to Co. The biggest problem was the idle surging a lot of people have, this is what worked for me and is nothing new. i disconnected the idle speed control, adjusted the air bleed and adjusted the fuel map to be the same up to about 1700rpm. This worked out great for me. The plan for the car is to build a Solo II/ Time attack car.

Mods.
large street port
non- sequential mod
HKS twin power
Apexi PowerFC
Pettit Launch Kit, Track Pro
SS Exhaust Downpipe, no cat 3" back
Pettit AST
Koyo R1443N 53mm N-FLOW Aluminum Racing Radiator
Efini Y Pipe
Greddy Elbow
GReddy Intercooler Pipe
ARC air box
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
AEM TRU-BOOST - Boost Controller Gauge
AEM DIGITAL WIDEBAND AIR / FUEL GAUGE
Powerflex steering rack bushings (Race black)
ABS delete
ISC delete
Thermo wax delete
ACV delete
Rats nest delete

That's about what i have done as of to date.

after i new window was put in while i was in Ca.



https://www.dropbox.com/sc/q2ctywvzmjvjjp5/_cSHp26IjL

got the new window and about to get off that spar tire, with all new tires

the nasty rattle canned engine bay, cant wait to change that

i don't need this

home at last, with a lot of work to do now that i have time to work on the car. the car did great on the drive home but would not transition to the secondary turbo thats why iam going with a simplistic lay out.

what my new rats nest looks like

after doing the non-sequential mod i drove the car for two days and broke a rear apex seal. Now i can start all over and do thinks my way. this is why i like to do things my self and that's the only way you know what your getting. this will not be my first rotary rebuild as i started working on RX-7's when i was 10 years old so iam happy to be back in the game.

you have to love picking cherries.

well the rotor housing are not as bad as i thought they were going to be but i would never use them like this. so i sent them off to Goopy Performance.

rotor housings back from Goopy and let me say it was worth the money to save the housings even if i where to buy new ones from my Mazdaspeed account.

now for that black paint that i cant stand, all the way down to the metal we go.

some primer and paint

started working on the harness and pulled all the wires i don't need out and fixed the rest.

No air pump thanks Colorado i love this state and don't miss having a rotary in Ca at all.

No thermo wax so i don't need this, and it is so much easier to take off the UIM.

started to deep clean and found this on the center iron thank God for a Mazdaspeed account. Get one if you don't have one this is why Mazda is the best company in supporting its supporters.

lets see if this hush mat works?? I know it adds weight but it's still a street car.

Working on ABS delete, i used 3/16th seamless copper tubing. being seamless and copper it wont rust and its easy to flare being seamless. FLY the fittings are 10x1mm. 25' cost about $45. this is just a dry fitting and i still might paint the lines but the copper on red doesn't look bad. I know iam missing the rubber grommets but iam trying to get the line center in the hole before i put the grommets in,

i would like to know what you guys think about all these Apex seal out on the market?

1. why do people think these companies have produced a seal that is cheaper and better than Mazda OE seals? i don't think anyone have been in the game as long as MAZDA and has put as much R&D and money in to its seal as Joe blow off the streets. Also look at companies like Racing Beat that makes and sell high end products and has been working with MAZDA from the start and they don't even make there own seals???? iam just saying a Company like RB that can make its own housings and rotors why would they not make a simple Apex seal???

with that said i will be putting in OE two piece seals knowing that this engine wont be above 7500rpm.

also Mazda makes and sells high performance Apex seals such as ceramic.


2. for the most part these companies wont even state how or what they make there seals out of. i don't know about you guys but I don't buy into that.



3. JUST MY THOUGHTS NO REASON TO GET BUT HURT OVER!!

STRAIGHT FORM MAZDASPEED


competition Apex Seal Information
Carbon apex seals and Iannetti Advanced Carbon seals are recommended for
any engine that will see 8000 rpm and above. They weigh significantly less than
the stock (cast iron) apex seals and provide lower mass, keeping the apex seal in
contact with the rotor housing face at high rpm. At high rpm, the stock (cast iron)
seal overcomes the spring, causing the seal to skip across the rotor housing surface,
reducing engine performance. Cast iron seals also can warp at high rpm.
Iannetti Advanced Carbon Apex Seals
Design
The two (2) spring design allows for a higher spring pressure which helps
improve chamber sealing. This design feature allows the engine to be run with
a higher degree of timing before “ TDC,” retarding the onset of pre-ignition or
detonation and effectively increasing the engine’s horsepower capabilities. The
insignificant wear characteristics of the material allows the use of almost double
the apex spring pressure than could be used with other stock or carbon apex
seals. This capability also contributes to better sealing, thereby improving the
containment of the combustion chamber pressures, which in turn, assists in
preventing the onset of detonation.
Material
The apex seal material exhibits the following qualities: high strength, low friction
and lightweight (lower than ferrous-based seals).
Recent material composition improvements have been made, especially in the
case of the 2 mm Iannetti apex seal used for turbo applications. The Iannetti
2 mm seal can handle over 50% more stress on the apex seal beam cross-section
than the 3 mm stock seal for normally aspirated 13B engines.
Benefits
n Provides excellent sealing characteristics at all temperatures
n Withstands damaging engine detonation
n Will not absorb moisture when engine is being stored
n Ideal for turbo applications
n Iannetti seals have been used by most major professional teams in the world:
• Winner of the 1994 IMSA World Sports Car Championship,
Wayne Taylor – Team Downing/Atlanta.
• 3rd in Class at the 24 Hours of Le Mans,
1995 - MazdaSpeed – Team Downing/Atlanta.
• 3rd overall at the Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona,
1996 – Team Downing/Atlanta.
• 1st in Class at the 24 Hours of LeMans,
1996 - MazdaSpeed – Team Downing/Atlanta.

oe is good for street cars. it will last because it is hard.. hard also means brittle, also means prone to damage from detonation.

ra, goopy, alx etc.. are softer and more malleable so they wear faster but they wont break or shatter in a detonation event. they may still bend but they are perfect for cars that live their lives only on track on sunday.

at least thats my understanding.

Your right about metal properties but if you call around engine shops and ask them about seal they have used many will tell you the same thing you just stated and then will say given they are softer they warp do to being to soft. i wouldn't want a seal that can warp just by idling by getting heat soaked. unlike a OE seal that warps from high RPMs at above 8000 rpm.

looking good !! if u need help let me know !

Engine bay looks a lot better with the red paint!

Let me know when you get everything together and want to start tuning again. Also, If you are running a non-seq set up. I have a cross over tube that I drilled out the flap in and put in a screw with RTV. If you want that to eliminate that flapper valve and failure of it opening, It's all yours.