Thanks i will do that always looking for place with more info.

Howeverits too late to turn back on removing the power steering, i have read allot of different points of views on this mod and i was keen to try it, if its no good i will just reinstate it but you got to try new things to know what's best.

Just to clarify im not just removing the pump i am doing a complete removal.

Just found an old pic thought i would share it, excuse my ugly mug in the photo

Strongly suggest you leave the P/S in, even if you are doing the full de-powering (not just removing the pump). Or at the very least, keep everything so you can put back later if desired.

Yes there are a few people who like it but in my personal experience, I know many, many more people who disliked it.

Can I ask why you're doing it? There's nothing wrong with steering feel with the OE setup.

If you're planning a V mount and the stock cooler and lines are an issue, there are ways around this. I for example have a Jag XJ cooler with rubber lines as my car has a large custom V mount for the track.

Like I said, I can put you in touch with 5 Aussie guys who have tried the whole depower thing, then hated it. Their cars vary from full street to full track. I have a track only FD and I've kept all PS.

You see, it's not just about the steering being "heavy" without powersteering. There are other consequences of depowering. I have never driven an FD that has been fully depowered but some of the descriptive terms I've heard from those who have done this are: "Horrible", "No linear feel", "Car felt unpredictable"

Remember that Mazda engineers spent a lot of time and money designing the suspension in these cars - WITH powersteering. For a reason. Australia's fastest time attack FD still has the PS.

Anyway, if you've made up your mind then good luck to you but I fear you will regret it and will end up putting everything back on. You can't say you weren't warned...

FDRX7 has lots of Aussies who know the marque VERY well and well worth your while joining up. :)

^ Your making me change my mind now, I got all the bits so nothing to stop me from putting back in? i will have a think about it before i commit any further.

Thank, oh and i have signed up as suggested. :)

have a look at my build.

I removed the PS pump, did the full depowered (opened up and seals removed) hated it ! with 245's on the front was crap !

I then didnt want to put the PS pump back in the engine bay as it a "ugly fecker"

So I went the EHPS setup from a MR2 and went back to PS. Very happy with it so far, but hant gone past 210km yet so dont know if its a bit gitty at high speed yet. (as its 100% on)

I was hoping to see some pics installed. Looks like it's been a few months. Any updates?

I'd also recommend leaving the PS alone. I drove a Series 7 once that had the PS removed (as some people on forums love to encourage, for some odd reasons...) and it was bloody terrible. Aside from the heavy steering, the steering input correction times are reduced, because it takes more effort to turn, which slows your reactions down, and makes the car hairy and unpredictable when going fast, and less responsive to quick maneuvers.

I dont know where all the "disconnect your power steering!" stuff comes from, or who popularized it, but I would never do it. Save your money, time and effort for another part of the car more worthwhile :)

*I feel the same about the ABS system too. Its there on Porsches & Ferraris, and its designed to stop lockup. That is a good thing in racing. Anyone who thinks they can outbrake ABS is either a Micheal Schumacher-wannabe, or Micheal Schumacher :p

Shamefully come crawling back
 

I have been putting off posting on here out of embarrassment, I started the project with such enthusiasm but life unfortunately got in the way, a combination of moving home, doing FIFO at the mines my priorties had to change.

Enough with excuses, I have been doing some odd bits here and there for the past month and honestly feel in only a couple of months away from finishing. I'm in the home straight.

I will post some updates at the weekend.

Ok first picture is of the vacuum lines I will be running based on a thread I found on the forum.

Second picture is of the LIM, just to be sure are items 'A' and 'B' just for vacuum sensing, correct?

Another question so I'm educated, why are there so many vacuum take off points? Why aren't they just all Tee'd off from the same point on a manifold?

Thanks.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3730f6552.jpeg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c5ee801af.jpeg

A and B are will be vacuum only out of boost. Do not T into the boost gauge for your controller. Seperate dedicated lines for things that really matter.

FD Down under - Single Turbo
 

the reason they are kept individual is so not to dilute the vacuum signal. things like fpr and map sensor should have there own source as they are crucial. you could how ever share a source for a gauge and something else non critical. I try to just to give everything there own source

Thanks guys, love learning the reason behind why things are done, with this in mind I should change how the FPR and BOV are from the same source, would you recommend taking the FPR from near the throttle, as marked in the picture below?


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2f5fd2ba9.jpeg

Few photos from today, FFE fuel rail installed.

Turblown, I'm Concerned with the exhaust manifold as it looks pretty close to the body, is this normal?


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8b4ce96ff.jpeg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f3e641c47.jpeg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8fc04c285.jpeg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1fc1c5555.jpeg

100 percent normal. If it ever touches it means your motor mount on that side is worn out.

It appears the previous owner removed the two sensors in the back of thermostat housing, will this be an issue for the Adaptronics PNP ECU.

They also modified the harness which was fine with the PFC, I assume I should put it back to the original wiring now.

You need to reinstall the water temp sensor.

Pictures on the first page seem to indicate a S8 water pump (integral filler) in a S6 (going by the abs) - can see the water temp sender....they don't come drilled for the fan switch. Are you talking about something else?

You might consider using something larger than 3mm line for the boost control valve, even stock twin hardlines are bigger @ 6mm once past the solenoids. Depending on the BOV position, there's probably an argument for bigger there too.

These are the ones that are blocked off.

The front sensor is still there.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4f534c1d4.jpeg

Sounds like you know more about my car than me, it is an S6 but PO changed a lot on this car.

For:
FPR vacuum I'm using 4mm
BOV vacuum 4mm
To Adaptronic ECU 4mm
Wastegates 6mm

Front sensor is water level. I'd expect the adaptronic doesn't require the bottom fan switch.

If I'm getting that correct, PO ran the car without a temp sensor somehow - or installed elsewhere in the system - seems a touch eccentric, unless running an IDA. :)

After closer inspection the water temp sensor has literally crumbled away flush, just ordered a replacement.

It's never a ending story of finding bad news haha

Thanks.

Sorry another question.

Below is a picture of my Wastegate, should this not be fully closed?



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...31e037b20.jpeg

Never mind just realised the v band fitting seals it up

Slowly but surely getting there, it's a lot harder than I first thought and I have some much respect for all the other guys out there doing these mods.

I just want to say everything I have purchased to date has been of great quality and the advice and help from the vendors has been great.

A few more pictures from this evening.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f6e52a952.jpeg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ed2cd8669.jpeg