Well I am glad you found the build thread after seeing the YouTube video. A lot has happened since the car left Japan!

Thank you for reading, I do appreciate your comment!

Also I got your PM - I will be in touch

 

Hey Jim - Thank you for the comment, but also a much bigger thank you for your support - you have already helped me a lot in this project and I really do appreciate it

Now I feel like I need to buy some cooler sunglasses for driving

 

After being cooped up due to forest fire smoke for the past two months, I finally managed to get out for a drive over the weekend

I was quite happy to finally to catch the early morning light to show off the sparkle in the paint:


Early morning sparkle!



Early morning sparkle!

 

 

Did you gett the carbon headlight blanks cut or are they dipped, they look good mine are too shiney ATM, Do you hide any of the electric under there?

 

Quick pic of mine :-)

 

Believe it or not, they are aluminium with a carbon fiber 3M or similar sheet stuck on top. They actually don't look too bad, even up close. My future plan is to remove them and to have one large piece made to wrap around the front of the intercooler and up the sides to clean things up.

I actually did not relocate/hide any fuses etc in there. There is plenty of room, but I am not sure how hot those headlight ballasts etc get.


Thanks for the photo! The car looks great! I know Kenneth was concerned about it arriving safely, I am sure he will be very happy to know it arrived in one piece.

So what are your plans? I hope you keep us all posted with a build thread here!

 

Going to have to get settled carbon to attach to it then 😁 I took the intercooler and rad off last night, so found all the carbon 3M attached to aluminium for the ducting, the undertray is a work of art 😁


Good point about the heat, may test the waters with that one.



My plans are recoop from the expenditure....... Going to go LT4 long term, so won't get much love here....

Cheers Neil

 

Well an engine swap is not my preference, but bottom line is it's YOUR car so do whatever YOU want!

A quality build is just that, regardless of what you are doing. Most of people hate large GT style wings on a 7, also 20" rims, but I love them! Whatever you do I hope you document a build thread somewhere, I know I will be subscribing

 

Well I guess some days all you can do is laugh

A couple of weeks ago I took the car out for what turned out to be a very short drive.........under very light throttle climbing a hill I developed some odd boosting / acceleration response issues. I pulled over and shut off the car as soon as was safe and got a tow home.

Turns out I broke the rear turbo on my BRAND new twins....talk about déjà vu





Talk about déjà vu

CRAP! NOT AGAIN!
*

 

As you can imagine I was not very happy, but even more so I couldn't understand what caused the damage. So due to being over 1,000 km from ForceFed I started some detective work....and learnt what a PITA removing those twins can be!

 

What I found was a pile of plastic shards and a small piece of metal inside my intercooler:



Debris found inside intercooler

 

Plastic? This really confused me. The only plastic I could think of was the inside shell of my HKS intakes.

So I pulled those and they were not damaged, but they also has some plastic shards inside them, now I was really confused.


Well I found the source of the plastic, and I guess I must be in big trouble with Karma, because how often do you see one of these fail?



How unlucky am I? When was the last time one of these failed?

 

Since the season is coming to a close. Go single turbo in spring/summer next year. Best thing you can do to these cars

 

Going single can be a huge project in itself.

The damage to the compressor wheel doesn't look too bad. Might just need a new compressor wheel and or compressor housing if the plastic abradable seal area is damaged.

Several aftermarket companies (Turbosmart, TMS, Forge, Tomei, GFB, etc) and at least one OEM (Supra had one) make metal BOV with the proper 20mm inlet and outlet and configuration that I believe could replace the stock Charge Relief Valve (2ndary turbo) or Air Bypass Valve (primary turbo/BOV).

Thanks for posting, this makes me so paranoid

 

Talk about bad luck. Hope you get it fixed soon

 

Yes, yet again I find myself back to costing out single turbo vs keeping the twins. Lots to consider



I currently have the turbos en route to the engine builder to assess the damage and the possibility of rebuilding. I am also costing out the single turbo route, again lol!

If I do stick with the twins, I will be eliminating the stock BOV & CRV.

Sorry for the paranoia....I just do not want anyone else to be in this situation. Perhaps if someone finds an all metal direct replacement for these, this modification might be once of the reliability mods along side replacing the stock plastic AST.


Thanks man, really bad luck.....two sets of twins n <1,000km......trying to work out what the universe is telling me here I have 8 months now to get ready for spring....it's already snowing here!

 

I will be getting one of the aftermarket metal ones. I will take it apart to verify no plastic inards and let the community know if it works up to par for Charge Relief Valve in sequential operation.

 

I look forward to seeing what you find! The community will owe you a big thank you if you find a suitable replacement part

 

Please! I see nice ones in 90* angles, but don't recall seeing a 19/20mm straight through BOV similar to stock.

 

I seem to recall Pettit used to sell metal OE replacement valves.

 

Metal version:

Blow Off Valve Upgrade Kit RX7 FD

 

My thought for the CRV was to use a metal 90 degree 20mm BOV upside down using the stock 90 degree rubber hose and then plumb the valve outlet directly into the 2ndary turbo inlet pipe right above it.
Same routing as stock, but further up stream which should help keep it quiet. The more direct recirc. might help a tiny bit with transition as well.

Because of how tight the space is between the 2ndary turbo outlet pipe in the CRV inlet area and the ABS heat shielding, you pretty much have to use the stock 90 degree rubber hose for the inlet to the CRV.

 

I bought the blow off kit from Pettit Racing after reading your post. I had some questions about the kit so I called Pettit and thought I'd pass on his info to you. He said the two blow off valves only blow air one way....out of the turbo, not in. He said he didn't think it was possible for the turbo to ingest bits from either one of the blow off valves.
So it might be a good idea to check everything in the intake path to the turbo's and the inter-cooler.

Had to add....Pettit is a great guy, he'll spend the time on the phone to help.....and 30 years experience on Mazda rotary's ....he knows his business!

 

The CRV and BOV are routed back into the intake in stock and many aftermarket intake systems to lower the noise levels.

The HKS intake pipes the OP is using have the CRV recirculated back into the turbo inlet pipe after the filter, so anything coming out of the CRV valve is going into the turbo.