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This is one of the studs that the Pineapple pulley kit attaches to. It's always been short due to the thickness of the bracket but for whatever reason it was even shorter, like 2 threads showing. This may be from me pulling and re-installing the studs. Anyhow, I replaced that stud with some M8 all thread from Amazon, cut to size. That should hopefully solve that.
Template for one leg of the turbo manifold. Made it in tape, cut it off, put the tape on paper then test fit. Then cut the heat shield material out, wrapped it around, and stainless steel zip tied in place. Took a few iterations to get it right.
Another thing that slowed me down in January - we had VERY cold weather and got 8.5" of snow! That is UNHEARD of here. The previous record snowfall was like 2 inches in 1895 (yes, over 100 years ago). It was fun but I'm VERY glad it's gone.
More detail shots of the engine as it sits right now. You can also see the turbine blanket I got. Also the 90 degree coolant hose is from PPE who makes diesel parts, it's a VERY high quality silicone coolant hose, 10mm diameter, and it was like $9.
Right now I'm keeping my existing injectors - 550cc primaries and 1300cc bored out secondaries with a Walbro 255 rewired. Going to run that until I'm out of fuel then look at upgrading. Going past that is PRICEY.
Also see the end of the last page for the main text of the update, it's not just the pictures
I love the tape to paper template to heat shield process! I have a bunch of heat shield material and kept wondering how to best fit it. I'll use this trick for sure! I have enough for the manifold, dp and lim!
I also cut most of my emissions connectors off when I went with the saxyman solenoid upgrade, somehow the iac/isc ground was cut. I looked at the harness and there are several splices of the ground going to different connectors and even though it looked good, there was a break somewhere. Anyways I'm sure you checked to make sure all was good during your harness mod.
About the fuel. An affordable route is the fuel rail and injectors from rotary performance, works with the pri rail and has the fuel temp sensor. I know Xavier says 1700s are ideal, but the bosch 2200 are 175 each vs id1700 300 each. I will use this rail with id1700 on my new set-up
So, first step is analyzing what you are trying to wrap. You want to be able to take a 2d sheet and make it 3d as well as being able to secure it with stainless zip ties.
I wrapped the section I was going to do in blue tape with multiple pieces. Cut the tape with a sharp X-Acto knife along the seam where you want your join. Unfold it, stick it to some white printer paper. Trace around the tape about 1/2" out, cut that out. Test fit the template.
Once you feel like you have a good template, trace onto the heat shield stuff and cut it out. Flip it over and remove about a 1/2" of the fiberglass from the edge all the way around, I found scoring the fiberglass with an X-Acto and peeling it off worked super easy. You may need to make relief cuts in the corners so it can bend/fold/shape. Take that flange with no fiberglass and bend it in to give it a rounded edge, it will also crimp onto the fiberglass to make that all more secure. Wrap and form around the section of manifold, secure with stainless zip ties, there ya go.
I also cut most of my emissions connectors off when I went with the saxyman solenoid upgrade, somehow the iac/isc ground was cut. I looked at the harness and there are several splices of the ground going to different connectors and even though it looked good, there was a break somewhere. Anyways I'm sure you checked to make sure all was good during your harness mod.
About the fuel. An affordable route is the fuel rail and injectors from rotary performance, works with the pri rail and has the fuel temp sensor. I know Xavier says 1700s are ideal, but the bosch 2200 are 175 each vs id1700 300 each. I will use this rail with id1700 on my new set-up
LOL I am actually the one that did a huge writeup on that fuel rail . Installed it in a buddy's car but I don't think he's driven it or done much with it, been super busy with a young 'un.
Something like that is likely the way I would go.
Also want to be clear since the "how to make a single turbo harness" is wrong - the black/white stripe wire going to each solenoid is POWER, not ground. Each one is powered and the other wire goes to the ECU which "taps" it to ground when it needs to activate it.
That wire ends up at the blue connector on the ECU harness, it gets power from the dash harness. I used continuity on my mutlimeter from that pin and checked the OMP connector (there are 2 power wires that go to that circuit) and the ISC wire as well as the orange fuel pressure solenoid connector which was the only solenoid I kept.
Again super pleased with the engineering in this kit from Turblown, the cast manifold is top notch, all quality components included, downpipe is top notch. But this Is still not a setup that was designed by a large OEM to go in the car, you WILL have a lot of work to install.
If I was going to install this, without question I would pull the engine even if I'm not rebuilding. Trying to do all the test fits and work to get it 100% in the car would be an absolute nightmare. Turblown has a video stepping through the install process, they do gloss over the final coolant line hook up. But you do have to clock the turbo, set up the waste gate, fiddle with the oil and water lines, etc. Not to mention pulling the stock twins is SO much easier out of the car, especially if you run into problems like seized fasteners.
If you aren't SUPER comfortable with automotive wiring, I would remove the solenoids and just leave the connectors in place. They aren't harming anything. If you want, just wrap them up in tape. I was trying to be careful cutting them out and it still ended up with a huge mess. If you do this wrong, your oil metering pump will NOT BE GETTING POWER and it's possible you will burn up your engine. It's just not worth it just so some loose connectors you can't see aren't there.
Looks like I need to troll your threads more for that fuel rail write up! (edit) Found it. Great write up as always.
Thank you for clarifying daisy chained power and separate grounds being tapped.
I plan on pulling back connectors not being used, thats what I am going to do with Calvins car, nothing will be cut.
Looks like I need to get more familiar with how the FD wiring works.
"That wire ends up at the blue connector on the ECU harness, it gets power from the dash harness. I used continuity on my mutlimeter from that pin and checked the OMP connector (there are 2 power wires that go to that circuit) and the ISC wire as well as the orange fuel pressure solenoid connector which was the only solenoid I kept."
Thank you for that info, my car does not have an OMP, but I will be installing one so I want to make sure I didnt screw anything up with my hack job.
Is your manifold coated as well? If not I would probably coat it as an added precaution for heat. I used the same Heat shielding on the Wife's car trying to mitigate the heat reaching the Master cylinder. I had a turbo blanket on there before and the turbo blanket would be in contact with the brake line offering direct heat transfer to the brake line which I didn't like. Now I have an air gap but just from the few drives I have taken, I'm on the fence with how well it works. It still radiates a lot of heat compared to the turbo blanket did(I know the turbine will be a bit hotter than the rest of the system) but this is still just a piston engine, I expect the Rotary exhaust temps to be a bit higher. I'm sure it will help keep some of the heat down but its not working as well as I had hoped.
I have the downpipe and lower intake manifold ceramic coated by Jet-Hot. I looked into having the exhaust manifold coated and I can't remember why but I came to the conclusion that wrapping with a solid shield was a better way to go.
Dale - Keep up the great work! Really appreciate the how-to content on the heat shielding, hope you get her done by DGRR, can't wait to see this beast!
Originally Posted by rotaryextreme
How has your experience been with your oil injectors venting with the breather vs the line going to before the turbo inlet.
It will work just fine. I'm not Dale but I've been doing essentially the same thing he is for the last 3+ years with my single turbo FD. My plumbing is slightly different, but it does the same thing the OEM setup is designed to do - deliver filtered air at ambient atmospheric pressure to the oil injector's air bleed ports. In my case, I'm also using the RA OMP adapter, so I'm feeding my 2-stroke oil from a small gravity feed tank to the OMP, and as such I can easily measure & tweak my oil consumption rate, which is how I know it's working.
So was getting ready to install the engine and found my throwout bearing on the trans was notchy and felt weird. Called a stop and got a new one ordered. Sucks but I want this done right
Will also give me some time to work on a few other loose ends. Next weekend!
So was getting ready to install the engine and found my throwout bearing on the trans was notchy and felt weird. Called a stop and got a new one ordered. Sucks but I want this done right
Will also give me some time to work on a few other loose ends. Next weekend!
Dale
Better to catch the suspect TO bearing now & fix while it's all apart than having to bench press the transmission out again to fix it when it eventually fails!
More detail shots of the engine as it sits right now. You can also see the turbine blanket I got. Also the 90 degree coolant hose is from PPE who makes diesel parts, it's a VERY high quality silicone coolant hose, 10mm diameter, and it was like $9.
Looks great Dale!
Just a note of caution.
Your coolant lines are not oriented correctly according to Borg Warner EFR
turbo installation… and with a $3k turbo I wouldn’t chance it.
I've seen so many setups running the coolant lines backwards vs the BW EFR recommends.
I didn't wanna take a chance and used this to install my EFR 8374iwg turbo to make sure I installed my coolant lines correctly.
Thanks man - I set up the water lines just like the video from Turblown showed to. One side is on the bottom, one on the top. It may not show in the pics. Is that what you are referring to?
New throwout bearing arrived yesterday - got an Exedy bearing from RockAuto, about $85. They had cheaper ones but NOPE . Definitely a good call comparing the old and new.
Finished doing some restoration on the starting/charging harness, it's all looking good for install on Saturday!
OK, looking at my setup and BW instructions I am good. The engine side enters from the bottom and the outside exits from the top. They also state that it doesn't matter coolant flow direction, as long as it's diagonal.
Had lovely weather this weekend and got caught up with some other odds and ends this week so everything was go.
So some notes -
- I read about dropping the subframe to make engine install with stock motor mounts easier. This is worthwhile. Basically, unbolt the rack from the subframe (4 bolts) and undo the 4 nuts and 2 bolts that hold the subframe in. I then wedged some pieces of 1x2 in between the back of the subframe and the body - the suspension was keeping the subframe up. This gained good additional clearance and made the re-install a lot less of a fight with the engine mounts.
- Another tip: I got a yellow paint marker and colored the tips of the studs on the bottom of the motor mount. This made it a lot easier to see in the hole.
- General procedure - floor jack and wood under transmission, trans up as high as it would go. Had 2 friends handy, one on the engine hoist, one on the driver's side holding the AC compressor up, and myself on the passenger side. Guided it in, got it lined up on the trans, and a little work and it popped right back onto the trans nicely. Put one trans bolt it to hold it, dropped down onto the subframe, and used a pry bar from up top to help guide the engine mount studs into the holes. Once they were home, bolted the subframe back up then removed the engine hoist.
Got most of the under the car stuff done then ran out of gusto/time. On Sunday I did a lot of small things that needed doing - my back was acting up a bit so I'd get something done, rest my back a bit, then do another thing.
So, things left to do to get it fired up -
- Install downpipe
- Install starter and starting/charging harness
- Install radiator and fill with coolant
- Get new belt for Ac/PS (it's on the way)
- Fish ECU wiring through firewall and hook up
- Install battery
Found an adapter to put a 1/8" NPT sensor in the heater hose. Trying that instead of having the sensor in the TB coolant hose, this will have less connection points so less points of failure.
Found the adapter on Ebay, it's 16mm which is the ID of the heater hose. Make for VERY quality fit. Also got a 1/8" NPT extension from Amazon due to the length of the sender, I did have to drill out the inside of that extension a bit to fit the Greddy sensor. Will it work well? Only time will tell.
